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Cura tells you how much filament every print will use. Exactly how much. If you print from the usb stick I believe the printer also tells you this. It's a good habit to take a peek at the filament spool before you start and if you aren't sure, unwind it and measure to make sure you have enough. I only have to do this on 1% of my prints when I'm near the end of the spool. You *can* pause a print and change the filament part way through but you have remember to do this.

I get some of that but not a lot. It's only a problem for me with white filament where you occasionally get a brown spot in the model when it drips off the nozzle. You could try a 3dsolex print core with an ICE nozzle. The ICE coating should keep any filament from sticking to the nozzle. I'm not sure if this solution is worth the cost though. I find it's easiest to clean the nozzle by heating to about 175C (150C is hot enough also) and then just wiping it off with paper napkin/tissue. Even the black gunk comes off. Don't apply huge forces (don't use tools) as you can break the core at the delicate heat break. Normal finger forces should be fine.

My biggest problem with the worms is they sometimes cause holes in the wall of my model after they are dissolved. A wipe tower helps but has learning curve. Mostly I suggest put the wipe tower in the back center as it is less likely to fall over there. Wipe towers tend not to stick well in the back corners.

new what? Completely new printer?

It could be something came loose during shipping (5% likely?) or your power brick (70%) but it could also be your power cable isn't all the way in (25%) so I'd really concentrate on that first. Sometimes it's really hard to get it in. You know it's in properly because it has an interlock and won't come out. Anyway most likely it's the power brick which they probably didn't test as the company that makes the power brick should be doing that. Contact support@fbrc8.com right away (they assembled your printer) or contact your reseller. There's a support button in the lower right of this page.

Well the support algorithm is very complicated and doesn't work in all cases and I don't want to address that so much but it looks like it will be fine - I mean I don't think it needs any support in that horizontal hole so it should be fine. Your other issue is more serious and interesting. Did you look at the part in xray view? I'm guessing it was made in sketchup and has an extra wall. If you see any red color in xray view then that's the problem. Please post a photo of the part in xray view.

This isn't tech support - this is just other UM users helping each other. Is it really a big deal (don't get mad - I'm just wondering)? For me if it doesn't recognize the spool, the printer just asks me and I tell it "PLA". done. Easy. Right? Or am I missing something. Anyway contact the company who sold you the filament if you want a tag. Eventually however you will probably have dozens of spare junk tags from old spools.

Retraction should probalby be 4.5mm by the way. Is this um2 or um3? Please could you post the sliced gcode file from your most recent test with all speeds at 30mm/sec? This is... strange. Never seen this issue before as far as I can tell. Yes, turning off combing should help. A little. Maybe. As it might add a retraction right after printing the inner circle on the hole. Or maybe that "oozing" in your image was on the inner shells and not related to the final shell layer. Not sure. Regardless. This is quite strange. I'm wondering maybe some cura bug. If you have a um2 I would strongly consider using cura 15.X right now. https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software/list

Your extrusion looks great. But you have overhang issues. That's best fixed with more fan. CRANK THAT FAN. Add extra table fans even. [reference: "more cowbell"]

Try lowering all the printing speeds to 30mm/sec (all of them except travel speed which needs to be at least 150mm/sec). That will fix it I'm sure. Then you can experiment with increasing the various speeds (there's several of them).

When you opened the png file did it ask you questions like how large to make it, how thick, and so on? It may be that you made it thinner than even one layer? Try dimensions such as 100mm by 100mm and 5mm thick.

There may be other solutions but cura likes to make loops in "shell mode". So if nozzle is .4 then it wants to do .8 of the wall or 1.6. You are right between at 1.2mm. So try lying and saying you have a .3mm line width and want at least .6mm shell width and it should print it with a simpler path (4 passes) I'm not sure how good the quality will be with a .4mm nozzle but .3mm line width. Also it will take a long time to print with a .3mm print spacing. There may be another solution. There are lots of new features in cura that I haven't played with yet.

First of all don't get the "visibility" check boxes confused with the actual settings. That gets me often. Look at the part in cura xray view. If there are any red areas the cad model needs to be fixed. I'm guessing they made it in sketchup. If so then have the designer read this fantastic article: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/

layer shifts are likely to be that you didn't tighten the pulleys enough. tighten the hell out of those prusa pulleys. Same goes with ultimakers. As far as comparing um2 or um3 to the i3 I recommend you spend $20 and order something on 3dhubs and insist it's made by the um2 and nearby where you live and then go pick it up and talk to the owner and look at the quality of the part.

I'm told from a reseller that the glass plates he has received have lately all been < 0.1mm flat. I mean they are flat within a tolerance of .1mm. Which is great. If your plate is warped > .3mm I would contact your reseller for a free replacement. (now I'm anxiously waiting for you to tell me that you *are* are a reseller and still see warped glass, lol)

Becky, neotko is a genius at S3D. He really is. But his explanations are often confusing to me (partly his fumble fingers on his phone) so if you don't understand his answer, explain what you missed and ask for clarification of the part you didn't get. Because if you are patient you can get amazing kernels of wisdom from him.

"x or y switch broken" could happen during homing if you accidentally got the "um2go" firmware which has a smaller build volume. Or it's possible the dimensions of the printer got corrupted some other way - this is common when changing firmware versions. I recommend doing a "reset to factory settings" on the menu. This will probably fix the X/Y switch error. Each firmware stores certain values in permanent memory such as steps/mm and print volume and about 20 other settings. Different versions of the firmware store values in different places. There is a mechanism where the firmware knows what the old firmware was and moves all the values to the new location but this mechanism only works when moving FORWARD in versions. If you go backwards (or sideways) it can get corrupt. "reset to factory settings" puts all those values (like steps/mm) back to default.

Did you try version 16.01 here? https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases

More information please. Are you saying you were successful installing tinkergnome and successful setting the E steps/mm but then kept getting errors? By the way you can use the original firmware but adjust the flow. It's an ugly work around but it can get you printing for now. Just move the filament by 100mm and measure how much it moves and then you now the percent error and can adjust the flow by that percentage. you can do this in the TUNE menu once you start a print and before it actually starts printing (while it's heating up the bed).

If you have a strong need for ABS let us know. Otherwise stay away. For one thing it smells quite bad and is probably bad for you to breath the vapors. So to clarify. Your benchy had a few horizontal lines. It looked like it overextruded there and the filament was spilling out the sides as it printed. I could be wrong there may be other causes. If the horizontal lines stick inward (have holes) then it's underextrusion for a layer or two or whatever. These horizontal lines that stick *out*, if they happen several times, could be a sign that you have bad temperature control: when the filament is hotter it flows better and sticks out more - when temp is cooler it goes inward. The effect is tiny but visible when you reflect light off the side. Much more likely is that the Z axis is not always moving the same distance. If for example you ask the Z axis to move .06 every time and sometimes it moves .03 then the next layer is effectively overextruding and it sticks out like a larger pancake on a stack of pancakes. The Z axis id quite accurate so it may move less than it is supposed to for one or even 3 layers but eventually things catch up and it will move *more* than it's supposed to and you get some underextrusion on that layer. It makes for some horizontal bandings. This kind of thing shows up more the thinner the layer height. That is one of a few reasons I recommended switching back to .1mm layers as that is easier to print (for other reasons as well). So anyway it might not be dirt. It usually is dirt. It could be a bad Z bearing. It could be bad Z nut. One test is to see if it always happens on the exact same layers every time. Or if the pattern repeats every 3mm vertically then the Z screw may be bent in a "C" shape. Try putting something heavy - about 5kg - like a brick - on the back of your print bed. That should help remove Z errors and make each layer more consistent. Also watch the nozzle temperature carefully while printing to see if it has a slow oscillation of at least 5C in range from hottest to coolest and if the hot layers are sticking out more.

ABS is quite difficult to print. For me it took about 50 prints before I was getting consistent satisfactory results. But you won't get the same quality as PLA I believe. For one thing it helps to enclose the printer to bring air temp up to 35C. Another trick is to use very little fan (about 1% on the UM3 which is about the same as 30% on UM2). Your benchy is MUCH better but you can improve still more. I see horizontal banding that I associate with Z screw issues. How clean is your Z screw? I would try to remove all the grease and dirt from the top half of the Z screw. Realize that there are 3 helixes and you have to clean all 3. Find some kind of gentle tool (plastic or wood maybe) that sticks into the screw grooves. Try to remove all grease and dust and dirt. Then you can re-apply some grease if you want but probably not necessary (the bottom of the z screw will still have some). One pea-sized drop of grease is enough for the entire z screw. WD-40 is good at removing grease but can also be messy. If you want to get really serious, then remove the entire screw from the printer and clean it over a newspaper with WD-40 and wipe completely dry and clean. While the Z screw is out you can slide the bed up and down to check for friction in the vertical bearings.

Look at it in cura in xray view and if there is any red you have to fix that first. Red can mean there is a hole in your model or (more likely) an extra wall that you didn't notice. Inside the model. Or two walls in the same spot. Making it confusing which locations are supposed to be air and which solid. Also consider unchecking everything in "fix horrible" (assuming you have cura 15.*). In cura 2.* it's called something like "mesh repair" maybe? Also you want the walls twice nozzle width. So probably .8mm minimum thickness walls. If not the walls of the cutter won't print at all. Maybe. Sometimes it prints if wall is .4mm but sometimes not so keep the wall at .81mm thick minimum. Or keep wall at .8 and adjust your nozzle width to .35 for a test (and your shell to .7mm or .35mm). This wall stuff again assumes cura 15.*

This is a fascinating issue to me. Maybe an UM material engineer has ideas. @Tomhe - does UM Nylon get softer if left in water for 24 hours? Or would this happen if the water was acidic? @SanderVG - can you make sure Tom sees this thread please?

Listen to Labern! He is the small nozzle printing expert here! I have only used small nozzles for about 5 unrelated prints (that added up to about 20 actual prints).

Oh wait - if it ONLY Hits the clips that hold the glass - then you should be able to fix this with a "factory reset" on the front panel of the printer. Or maybe cura is not configured properly.