gr5

The problem sounds more like not that the part is sticking to the nozzle but that it is not sticking to the bed. You should be able to pick up the printer by the print even when as small as the UM robot. Usually the main problem is #6 below but here are details on how to get parts to stick: 1) Make sure the glass is clean if you haven't cleaned it for a few weeks. You want a very thin coat of PVA glue which is found in hairspray, glue stick, wood glue. If you use glue stick or wood glue you need to dilute it with water - about 5 to 10 parts water to 1 part glue. So for example if you use glue stick, apply only to the outer edge of your model outline then add a tablespoon of water and spread with a tissue such that you thin it so much you can't see it anymore. wood glue is better. hairspray doesn't need to be diluted. When it dries it should be invisible. This glue works well for most plastics. 2) Heat the bed. This helps the plastic fill in completely (no air pockets) so you have better contact with the glass. For PLA any temp above 40C is safe. I often print at 60C bed. 3) heat the bed (didn't I already say that?). Keeping the bottom layers above the glass temp of the material makes it so the bottom layers can flex a bit (very very tiny amount) and relieve the tension/stress. For PLA 60C is better than 50C. 70C is even better but then you get other "warping" like issues at the corners where they move inward but if you are desperate it's worth it. For ABS you want 110C (100C is good enough). 4) rounded corners - having square corners puts all the lifting force on a tiny spot. Rounding the corner spreads the force out more. This is optional if you use brim. 5) Brim - this is the most important of all. Turn on the brim feature in cura and do 10 passes of brim. This is awesome. 6) Squish - make sure the bottom layer is squishing onto the glass with no gaps in the brim. The first trace going down should be flat like a pancake, not rounded like string. don't run the leveling procedure if it is off, just turn the 3 screws the same amount while it is printing the skirt or brim. Counter clockwise from below gets the bed closer to the nozzle. Don't panic, take a breath, think about which way to move the glass, think about how the screw works, then twist. This may take 30 seconds but it's worth it to not rush it. You can always restart the print. If you do all this you will then ask me "how the hell do I get my part off the glass?". Well first let it cool completely. Or even put it in the freezer. Then use a sharp putty knife under a corner and it should pop off.

I'm not sure if this is normal because I don't really understand what the issue is. You say the glass bed is moving? Maybe that's normal? Maybe I don't understand? I'd still like to see a video of this movement/vibration. What you say is "excessive" might be normal. A video would really help.

Normal Anders Olsson torque is 0.8Nm. For reference.

Looks good! I don't think you need to go down to 190C with other colors. And if you do go down to 190C the other colors will be much more viscous (like toothpaste) and you will have underextrusion. But this white color seems to print better cooler.

At this point I think it's time you contact your reseller and get a new bed.

If you measure the resistor while it's connected to the UM and the UM is powered up you will get crazy readings like this. The way the UM and the way your meter measures resistance is it puts a small voltage across the two wires and measures the current flowing through. Unfortunately the UM and the meter use different voltages. The UM uses around a volt and your meter sends out only probably a few mv. So the meter is getting all confused. I would heat until it fails then quickly cut power and measure with voltmeter then to see if it's actually the PT100. Things expand when heated at different rates. The problem is almost certainly in an area that gets hot - in other words on the bed somewhere. It could be a hairline fracture in the conductive trace but more likely a solder joint but you reflowed them all. So maybe it's time to change the PT100 - I don't know. I would also connect the meter up to the screw terminals to free up my hands and push around on the PCB while watching the meter to see if the resistance jumps suddenly. Sometimes you can find the bad spot that way.

How many hours to print that HUGE robot?

Oops. Yeah. Those things shouldn't affect this anyway. I still recommend you make a tiny 3 minute-to-print part that exhibits this problem. I would try 190C (on the test part! after trying 220C on the test part). Also make sure your bed is only getting to 60C. White PLA filaments for some reason seem to be less viscous and can be printed cooler than other colors. They tend to string more also and have more difficult overhangs. So I'm doubling down on "print cooler". This issue you show I really haven't seen much of before - not like this where the rest of the part looks so good. I have seen issues similar where the belts were loose (but only on UMO) that were similar due to backlash. But in those cases it was always a combination of blacklash and underextrusion yet you seem to have no underextrusion. Also the fact that you have all these speed changes can cause underextrusion so make all the shell speeds the same for an experiment (at the lower speed).

Well I remember the first time the best and that was with a custom 0.7mm nozzle and was about 2 years ago and with (other than nozzle) original UM2 parts and was 18mm^3/sec. However I've been in those speed realms recently as well with the new "race" nozzles from 3dsolex and using the bondtech feeder.

Even if you completely enclose your UM2 with bed at 110C the air inside doesn't really get hotter than around 45C as far as I've been able to achieve. You would have to add some insulation as well if you want to get hotter than 45C I expect.

Your top/bottom thickness isn't a multiple of your layer thickness. It will only make the layer thickness one layer. But that's not your problem I think. or is it? Is this the top layer in the region of the hole? Maybe it's not supported very well with infill? Although it doesn't look underextruded. Your overlap is also too high at 50%. It's so much overlap it's completely covering the inner shell and it makes it look like you only have one shell pass when you actually have 2 passes. The problem as I assume you know is that your outer shell and your inner shell are not touching on these small holes. The only thing I can think to try is to print cooler (which may mean also printing slower) to get these holes a little bigger. The problem is that PLA acts like a liquid rubber band (like snot) and is pulling as the tiny circle is being printed. Pulling inward such that the circle is smaller than it's supposed to be even before the filament has a chance to cool. Printing with cooler filament makes it stay in place better but makes it so you may have to print the whole part slower - not sure - you will have to experiment with printing speeds when the second layer starts up - just play with it in the TUNE menu. If it was me I would try printing at temps like 210C and 190C and print a tiny sample that just has this hole in it with all the same settings otherwise.

All PT100 sensors have the same temperature versus resistance curve so any manufacturer will work although it's rare for them to die. I forget if it's 0603 or 0804 or other SMD size. More likely the wiring somewhere between the circuit board and the bed is faulty. Most likely on the bed PCB. Start with reflowing the solder at the terminal block. The etches on the bed can also fail. If so consider bypassing that with a wire. PT100 should be around 108 ohms at room temperature.

Your layer height is .15 your top/bottom thickness is .75 your bottom layer height is .26 You need the .26 to be a multiple of .15. Anyway I just sliced a cube with your exact settings and it worked fine. The .26 could be the problem but then why does it work for me? did you slide the slider all the way up? The layerview isn't perfect - it only shows some of the layers at a time so if you slide up and down you should see some layers appearing and disappering. Try it again and wait for the layer view to fully load (there is a percentage loaded notification in the bottom center of the scree - wait until that gets to 100%). Just to clarify - the green and red parts of layerview are always visible but the yellow parts (top/bottom and infill) only display the layer you are currently on with the slider and a few layers below. So it may *look* like it's not doing the top and bottom but it should be. Although now that I think about it - you have brim on the inside of your parts. I don't. Something is definitely wrong with your models. Please post one or both stl files also.

Start by disabling brim and setting skirt lines to 0. Or set brim lines to 0. These can enlarge your part by huge amounts. Just to see if this is the issue (You still want brim - just not so much). Also maybe the base fits but the upper portions of your part are overhanging? The part can't go near the clips either. does it? Maybe post a photo of it in cura. If you click on the part, what dimensions does Cura think the part is? How much bigger than the part is the shadow (full footprint)?

@paul9 what kind of printer do you have and is the problem only on the first layer? Maybe a 5 second video would help.

@bobd please post your json file plus instructions for the next person. Please post it somewhere that it will last for years and not some temporary hosting site like bitbucket. Maybe you have dropbox?

No need to take the bowden off. Just pull out some filament, apply one drop light oil (any petroleum oil is fine and will not affect the final print). Then re-insert. Keep applying one drop oil for every meter of filament. Also using a larger nozzle (like I did below) while not necessary can really speed things up. Also you might have to print slow and hot. I usually print 10mm/sec and 240C for flex (below print was faster as it was large nozzle). This part is flex:

There is a checkbox for both top and bottom. Are those both checked? Maybe post all your settings here. Do "save profile" and then cut and paste the ini file here.

Lance there is another option - you can split your model up into 3 parts (top, bottom, walls) and give each section a different set of parameters. This is especially worth your trouble if you are printing lots of these. I have never done this but it's a feature somewhat hidden in cura 2.1.X. First split the model into 3 with CAD. Then open all 3 pieces in Cura and on the left you can set different settings for each part. Then you "merge" the 3 pieces and Cura automatically knows exactly how to assemble them (because they are still referenced to 0,0 in CAD).

What country are you in, Lance? UM used to put 25W heaters in their printers (both UMO and UM2 series). The "plus" printers and the "plus" kit come with 35W heaters. If you aren't getting "heater error" then there is no reason to up the power. Most UM distributors sell parts including 35W heaters. 3dsolex in europe sells 25W, 35W, 40W, 50W. I am a 3dsolex distributor so I sell those 4 wattages also. If you really want to print faster you should consider getting: 1) Bigger nozzles (3dsolex and distributors sell also 1mm, 1.5mm and 2mm - even 2mm for 1.75mm filament, lol, that's a specialty nozzle!) 2) More powerful extruder (the plus or meduza is pretty good - almost double power. Bondtech even better). 3) Larger heater if/when you get "heater error".

Did you try a very thin bottom thickness yet? Just one layer height? Just curious what that does even if you need a thicker bottom.

Korneel is probably correct but it could also be bed leveling. I would try turning the screws just a little - don't do the leveling procedure - just turn the front right screw CCW a bit to move the glass up (closer to nozzle) by a half turn and see what happens. Also try experimenting while it's printing until those little holes close up.

>800 micron layer heights with the 0.8mm nozzle but had to print at 20mm a second, That's .8 X .8 X 20 = 13mm^3/sec. Did you get heater error? If so you need to upgrade to a 35W heater (or larger). 13 cubics is about right - I've seen that limit with original equipment but change the feeder to bondtech, switch to block V3 and matchless 1mm nozzle and I've gotten 24mm^3/sec with not even slight underextrusion. 3dsolex claims very fast speeds with no underextrusions:

I was about to suggest making the shell width 2 passes (.8mm) to hide this but then realized you are already printing something very thin. You could try cura 2.1.X as it has 3 options related to this (which are all on by default). Although I'm not sure that this feature already existed (all 3 forced turned on): The idea is that if there is infill between 2 walls and there isn't enough space it doesn't do 100% flow but instead does the amount of flow that will fit. Not sure this will do anything though if cura thinks of this as "bottom". That might explain everything - when you do 100% fill it probably does less than 100% flow - it does just the right amount. When infill is off and it considers this "bottom" it doesn't do the nice algorithm. Hmm. What's wrong with 100% infill? You can break up your part into sections and only do 100% flow in the walls if that helps. It's tricky - you need to break it up into cad - do different settings for each part and then merge it back together. Cura 2.X does this but not Cura 15.X. Or is 100% infill also bad?

It kind of defeats the purpose when you cut up the fiberglass or carbon fibers much smaller than the .4mm nozzle size.