gr5

You don't need to spend $400 to get a .8mm nozzle - you can just get the Olsson block part of the upgrade kit only from many sources including my store here: gr5.org/store/ I have the upgrade kit - it's quite good. Anyway I recommend you stick with .4mm for now to get an idea of how transluscent this will be - it's definitely not transparent. I think AreDigg explains it well.

Man you are having so much trouble! Well I feel like I'm talking to a brick wall. In the first photo with the brown stuff your leveling is off again. What did you do? Did you level it again? Or is the new nozzle shorter? Do you see how in the first photo the brim has gaps? That's not good - why didn't you stop the print right there? The first layer is the most important by far. If the first layer isn't going to stick why bother doing the second layer? This was what I talked about in my first posting in this thread - you need to squish the bottom layer into the glass. You've made lots of long posts. I've made lots of long posts. Still not doing the "squish" thing on every print. I see some of the other's look fine though. So when you start a print have your hand on the 3 screws - be thinking about which way the bed moves when you turn CW or CCW. Be ready to fix that brim before it finishes the brim. Now it's so easy I don't even think about it. Like I don't have to think about which way to turn the steering wheel when driving a car. The photo with the glue - too much glue - take a wet napkin and remove most of it - the layer of glue should be invisible once it dries. And really it's too bad about the ABS. PLA is hard enough as it is, ABS just has a couple more things making it extra tricky. There's a new "coffee" filament from protopasta that is PLA but after you print with it you bake the parts for a short time and it changes color and then is heat resistant just like ABS. So if you really need your parts to withstand boiling water that might be a consideration. There may be down sides - this is not a popular material yet. Another bonus - it smells great when you print with it. About the fan - this thing is very simple - if you looked at the gcodes and read about them you'd hopefully understand by now. There is a gcode that sets the fan speed - the gcodes are just read in order - very simple - no if statements - no loops - just read in order like reading a book. If a gcode sets the fan to 10% it does it right then and there even if you set it to 100% a few seconds ago on the control panel. It just goes to whatever speed was sent most recently. If the fan speed is < about 10 or 20% it doesn't turn at all because that's not enough power to get most of the fans to turn.

There's sort of a plug in that does this but it's ugly - you slice it both ways and the plugin combines the 2 gcode files together I think. Much better to use simplify 3d (S3D) which costs I think $80. It seems to work well for most people but has a higher learning curve I think. You can also increase strength in CAD by putting in micro cavities where cura thinks it's seeing walls and prints more material there. But PLA is pretty incredibly strong even completely hollow. Could you show a drawing of what you mean?

3dsolex indeed had a bad batch of nozzles where several hundred nozzles where .35 instead of .4mm. It was kind of obvious. .35mm is pretty damn far off. I have "nozzle cleaners" that are .36mm and they fit loose in the .4mm and not at all in the .35mm nozzles. You could see it also. They were quite a bit bigger than the .25mm nozzles. So I ended up selling them as ".35mm nozzles limited edition". But the people who had those nozzles noticed. It was a pretty big deal. 3dsolex gave out quite a few free replacements of course. In reality the tolerance is probably closer to .01mm on most nozzles. I mean for this kind of thing to happen someone has to use the wrong drill bit. but drill bits can wear down and so holes I would expect might be smaller than planned but .35 is silly small. It's visible. I inspect every nozzle by eye and I can easily tell them all apart.

PT100 sensor resistance/temperature chart:

Do you have a multimeter? Measure the resistance of the temp sensor underneath the printer (while disconnected from the board). it should be around 108 ohms. Most likely somehow must have gotten damaged. You can get a new one from fbrc8.com (ultimaker original parts) or from my store at gr5.org/store/ (3rd party parts). I test every temp sensor at 260C because a while back many of them would open up around 200-240C and then start working again when they cooled. However your temp sensor sounds more seriously broken. They don't solder the sensor to the wiring inside because solder melts at these temperatures so instead they are crimped and metals expand at different rates when you heat them and so they can fail. Most fail very early on like yours. Once the temp sensor has survived a few prints it should survive for years.

loctite super glue "ultra gel control". Good to know.

I haven't tried transparent filament but the experts seem to agree you want very thick single pass walls. So a 1mm nozzle will give you much better results and do something like .4mm layer height and 1mm thick shell. This will work much better than the converse (.4mm nozzle with .1mm layer height and .8mm walls. If you only have the .4mm nozzle to work with - well sorry. But try lying to cura and tell it you have a .6mm nozzle with .6 shell and .2 layer height. or maybe .4mm nozzle with .4 shell and .3mm layer height.

Did you look at the part in slice view? In fact could you upload your gcode file somewhere - I want to look at it. STL also if you can. if indeed it skipped a layer (it happens) look at the part in xray view and if you see *any* red - even a tiny spot - that's probalby the problem - either a missing wall or extra wall.

I can't imagine what you could have done to hurt the steppers. They can take a lot of abuse. Are you sure they weren't like that before the electronics failure?

You appear to be getting very consistent 50% underextrusion. I think your steps/mm is off by 2X. Try setting flow in tune menu to 200% instead of 100%. Is it possible that you have UM2 firmware inside your UM2+? Is this printer new? Is this your UM2 or your UM2+? Anyway you clearly have massive underextrusion. If it's not your steps/mm then there's lots of other possibilities.

A few years ago I switched from sketchup to DSM (Design Spark Mechanical). It took a long time to get as good in DSM as I was in Sketchup (about a year) but it was worth it. DSM doesn't allow you to create non-solids.

First of all: NEVER PRINT SOMETHING WITHOUT CHECKING IN LAYER VIEW FIRST. I guess you already know that now. The most likely problem is that you need to uncheck all the "fix horrible" checkboxes in the expert dialog. I believe "A" is checked by default but for this particular part I suspect you don't want it. Alternatively you could probably click on all the faces of your part (especially side walls) and make sure they are all white and not gray and if they are gray right click and do something like "reverse faces" although that might be unrelated. Finally if unchecking "fix horrible" doesn't help, look at the part in xray mode. Anything that is red in xray mode is a problem: either faces don't meet (gap) or there are internal walls or there are holes. Sketchup is particularly bad at creating solid models. Sketchup is great for visuals because for visual purposes we don't care if walls are infinitely thin and that parts are solid. But for 3d printing you want the part to be "manifold" meaning it is obvious what is supposed to be plastic, and what is supposed to be air.

Now I understand! No material is coming out. Oh - you already said that. Well still - video helps. Look if "move material" isn't working then there is no point to start the print. When you do move material watch the filament through the clear bowden - watch it going up and down. Go both directions several times, does the filament stop moving at some point? You are probably damaging the filament back at the feeder - did you look at it there? Did you cut off some like I suggested? Try cutting the tip of the filament to a point so that it gets past the ledges found inside the print head. So push the bowden at different angles while moving filament up and down - and again watch the filament through clear bowden - if it isn't going up then it certainly won't go down either. Often the material gets stuck before it gets to the tip. When you said you fed it manually what did you mean? I thought you were pusing from the back of the machine? No? If it is coming out while pushing and then switch to move material does it suddenly stop coming out? Beware that you don't want to leave the nozzle at 220C for many minutes as it can slowly back the PLA into a clog. So try lower temperatures like 180C when manually pushing and 200C when doing "move material" or at least don't do it for 5 minutes - 1 minute at 210 or 220C is long enough to decide you are doing something wrong, lower the temperature and think again (check feeder? cut filament to point? Slide it up and down a few more times?)

I recommend 400 but 402 should be fine.

>I think it's very cumbersome to place SD-card back and forth... Yes. You have to go back and forth. it's not so bad. Putting on a jacket every time I go outside in the winter is also cumbersome but I'm used to it.

Ultimaker had a problem with their filament last summer - mostly it's all better now but the problem is it ages much too quickly and gets brittle. I recommend you get your money back. A basic test - take the filament still on the spool and bend the end 90 degrees. If it breaks consider throwing it all away. I still usually print with it but at some point (breaks at 20 degrees?) it will start breaking in the bowden. You could turn off *all* retractions and probably still use the filament but only for very simple prints. Ultimaker's newer filament is fine. And filament from 2014 is fine also.

You are printing a bit fast for that temperature. Try going to 25mm *or* try going up to 230C.

Make sure the filament isn't ground up at the feeder - best thing to do is cut a few mm off the tip of the filament and start over to see if it can extrude. Use the "move material" menu to try to get it to extrude. Once that is working - the problem you stated before (the mess) was probably leveling slightly off. Try pushing up and then down on the bed to see if it starts working better. Then you know which way to turn the 3 screws - turn them the same amount 1/4 turn each at a time. Don't use the "leveling procedure" more than once occasionally - just turn the damn screws while printing the first layer after that.

Oh also, the Z axis on the UMO "ramps" circuit board should have the stepper jumper different than the other 3 stepper drivers. Anyway don't worry about it - just adjust steps/mm by an integral multiplier (multiply by exactly 2x).

UMO+, UMO, and UM2 have I think 3 different steps/mm. Sounds like you have UMO+ steps/mm.

There's a new bug introduced recently that makes editing the profiles buggy. It's fixed in source code but not released to the general public yet. There are work arounds involving saving to materials.txt doing certain edits and then loading it back in. The work around seems to work. The other work around of course is to just set it every time. asb - I know what you mean - it's hard for us to tell exactly what's going on without making sure your filament is feeding the exact amount requested when printing through your nozzles to make sure it isn't underextruding and also if I were there I would be playing with the leveling as it prints the bottom layer. But it could be a bunch of things - most of which can be fixed quickly. Like getting another .6mm nozzle. When you use the .6mm nozzle you *do* set the nozzle size to .6, right? And shell width is a multiple of .6, right? If you skip either of those 2 steps you get a disaster. Fortunately Cura hints that there is a problem with bright yellow background for shell width if you do that part wrong.

So 35mm/sec at .2mm layer and .4mm nozzle is 35*.2*.4 = 2.8mm^3/sec. If that's the top speed at 220C then I think your printer is a bit sick. But your first post was more than 4X faster than that. So these are kind of 2 extremes. Or was the test with a .8mm nozzle? If so that changes everything! I guess I'm getting very confused with partial information. What was that heart printed at - I need to know: temperature, volumetric speed, nozzle size. Those are the 3 key variables. Volumetric speed can be calculated knowing layer height, print speed and nozzle width (just multiply the 3 numbers together). Is your printer new? How many hours printing? If your printer is indeed defective (I'm not 100% convinced yet) then consider putting the filament on the floor and consider trying a new teflon coupler. Those are the top things to reduce underextrusion (other than printing slower/hotter):

Now regarding the nozzle - I don't know but soaking it in acetone overnight (8 hours) should help a lot. Did you check your feeder to make sure you didn't grind the filament badly there? I'm thinking you got the cause and effect backwards. it can easily happen either way: 1) too many retractions causes filament to grind causes filament to stop moving causes ABS to bake into a permanent plug 2) dust causes nozzle clog which causes filament to grind to dust which causes ABS to bake into a permanent plug 1 - is more common. I've been able to burn out PLA - it helps to also use a wire and to do some test feeding over the stove. I haven't had to burn ABS out yet - toothpick was always good enough in the past so I'm not certain what the next step is other than soak in acetone for 8 hours.

Try 110C. Make sure it is at least 100C on the sides - like you said it is cooler on the sides. One way to get the glass up to temp faster is to put a towel on the glass by the way. To get to 110C you will need to enclose your printer. I know - you said something earlier about "but UM said it works with ABS so I shouldn't have to modify my printer". Well putting a box over it which takes a few seconds to do isn't much of a modification but - well - printing in ABS *and* printing to the edges of the glass probably *will* need modification if you consider putting a box over it a modification. Also cover the front with saran wrap. You want the air around 40C to 50C. Much hotter than 60C and it gets bad for the steppers. But it's really hard to get the air hotter than 50C anyway so no big deal. I'd like to see a photo of where your brim meets your print when you've only printed 2 or 3 layers - I want to see what the brim looks like - does it have gaps? Is it squished - from the photos above it looks fine but it's hard to tell from the angle. Ideally print this flat - printing this part vertical is definitely the hard way to do it. If you ahve to print it veritcal then tilt it diagonally so it is away from the edges of the glass (in other words one end is near the rear left corner and the other end near the front right corner - that's what I mean by "tilt"). If your part hasn't literally ripped chunks of glass off the bed (that happens to everyone eventually) then you can do more to get your part to stick.