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It should lock on so that for example you can pick the printer up and swing it around by the power chord. Not recommended but it should be that strong of a connection. Probably it's rubbing against the wall of the printer. Remove the connector and notice that the end of the connector slides backwards. It needs to slide back forwards to be locked in. Try jiggling things around pushing left/right/up/down and twisting slightly as you shove it in there until it clicks and locks in.

First check infill speed - make sure it's set to zero. That alone could explain everything if it's a faster value than the rest of the print. 20 is pretty slow so should give good results but if you are gonig that slow you can print much cooler than normal - try 190C for PLA if printing that slow. Or is this ABS? Fill density 100 is probably a bad idea. PLA and ABS are incredibly strong. Try something less than 25% as you get better infill patterns there - try 24%. Still incredibly strong.

Oh - sorry about the ugly marked nozzles. "2" means .25, "6" means .6mm and so on. Ignore the ".4mm" labels. Carl at 3dsolex did a test run by hand himself. There are only about 30 of these hand made nozzles in the world at this time. I just don't sell enough 1.75mm nozzles to make it worth it for a big run (say 1000 nozzles).

I'm not convinced 1.75mm is any better or worse. The normal feeder can produce about 5kg of force on the filament so if you have a 1.75mm filament going into the head that's MUCH more pressure in the head - result: plus. The knurled wheel pushing on the filament has a smaller surface area on the 1.75mm filament (because the filament is smaller!) so it can't push as hard so you won't get the full 5kg force. Result: minus. I don't know which of the above 2 are stronger effects or if it all just cancels out. 1.75mm filament has to move farther to print the same volume so the stepper motor on the feeder has more precision. Result: plus - printing very very tiny frogs that fit on your fingernail will now be able to have more precision in the amount of plastic extruded. Note that this is only a plus for Labern who's average print is always getting lost in places like under his fingernails as his prints are almost too small to see 3mm bowden not designed for 1.75mm filament so it can get all wavy in there and result in uncontrolled extrusion. result: minus (most people report this is really not an issue). Overall the only reason to get the kit is if you have hundreds or thousands of dollars of 1.75mm sitting around that you want to use up. Or if you are printing some bizarre boron carbide filament that only comes in 1.75mm (but as far as I can tell everything comes in 2.85/2.9mm).

Glass is the latest innovation and is better than kapton tape or blue tape. hair spray, glue stick, wood glue all have PVA in them. For hair spray use a tissue - spray that and then wipe it on with the tissue. This keeps PVA out of the rest of your printer. Wood glue mixed with 10 parts water (doesn't have to be exact - it all dries away anyway) is the easiest - mix in a small jar and shake well. Use a paint brush to apply. Let it dry (dries faster with heated bed on). You can reuse this surface for many prints. You can add only a tablespoon of water and spread it around again or you can completely wash the glass and start over. Wash the glass once per month to remove dust and finger oils. Even if you only use the printer once per month. I'm guessing your main problem is not glue related but you aren't squishing the bottom layer into the glass enough - you probably still have it leveled to the old tape height. Instead of running the stupid leveling procedure - just turn the 3 leveling screws CCW a half turn and when the print starts make sure the lines are pressed into the glass a bit.

99.71% (roughly) of the screws on the UMO and UM2 are 3mm standard pitch also known as M3 screws. And they are all button head with the 2mm hex screwdriver style.

UM2+ kit - I don't have one but I understand it: upgrades fans increases nozzle heater power from 25W to 35W upgrades feeder (feeder opens like the iroberti and is 2X more powerful) olsson block If you get that "3rd party HB kit" it comes with a 39W nozzle heater so you are covered there. The olsson block you can also get 3rd party and the feeder upgrades you can download from youmagine (e.g. I like the meduza 2X adapter combined with IrobertI feeder). I find the original feeder is fine for me. My um2go has the HB and the olsson block and it's my main printer. I have 4 Ultimaker printers and I use the um2go the most by far. If you really want the 2X meduza upgrade I have all the parts (I had to get 5X minimum of all the parts unfortunately so I have lots of extras) - I can probably sell them to you for about $5 and you can print the rest. The meduza upgrade will get rid of all your skipping related underextrusion but you will still get underextrusion caused by filament slipping just like the old UMO. Lots of great printed fan shrouds also on youmagine. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/belt-geared-um2-feeder-upgrade

You can indeed switch to a different heater. You need only edit configuration.h I believe. It should be simple as it is heavily commented (that file is probably 90% comments). Possibly you have to instead edit pins.h or the advanced configuration but most likely just Configuration.h. source files (I strongly recommend tinkergnome version): tinkergnome (UM2 marlin): https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases Ultimaker2 marlin source: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin Then you need to build Marlin. There are instructions that come with the erik zalm download in the "README.md" text file. Basically you download and install arduino ide: http://arduino.cc/en/main/software Then copy the sanguino software as explained in README file. Open Marlin.ino file in Arduino IDE by double clicking it (not pde file as stated in README - I think that's old). Select board as "Mega 2560" as explained in README file. Go to "file" "preferences" and select "verbose output" so you can find your hex file. Then build it by clicking the check box in the upper left corner. At the bottom you will see it compiling Marlin. At the end of this it says where the hex file is. If you are currently connected to your UM through USB you can just click "file" "upload" and you are done! But you should locate that hex file and save it somewhere along with the Configuration.h file used to create it so you can recreate the same version with maybe one change. Also you can upload the hex file using Cura in expert menu. The actual ultimaker firmware is built with make file and doing it that way generates a smaller more compact firmware but doing it through the IDE works fine. I've done it many times.

First of all - "temp bed sensor" - doesn't that happen immediately on power up? How could you possibly heat the bed if you have this error - this is the most confusing part of your problem. The sensor should measure about 108 ohms (anywhere from 100 to 115 ohms is close enough to avoid the temp bed sensor error). did you ever check that? If you get this error part way through a print then some wire is probably not a good connection - I would replace the wires. The most common failure is on the board itself - the solder connection between the screw terminal block and the board. Try pushing and pulling on every connection (wires, connector block, temp sensor itself, twist the board a bit) to see if you can get it to jump from 108 ohms to an open (millions of ohms).

That circle pattern is - well - very interesting! I've never seen that. I would ask on a delta forum as I suspect all of these are related. The arcs - is the center of the arc pointing towards the hinge point of one of the delta arms? The wall patterns might be somehow related to Cura or maybe to your cad software or a combination of the 2 but the flat circle pattern - there's no way - cura just does simple diagonal lines. There is nothing that could come out as a circle pattern there. That circle pattern has to be related to the printer itself.

That's what speed he was printing it.

It's less than a year - send the white PCB back and get a new one. Those 2 transistors (T1 and T2) must be damaged - maybe through static electricity? I don't know - definitely go straight to support at this point. I can't think of anything else that would cause your symptoms but also have the heated bed working fine.

Also if that's your problem you should send the board right back - open a ticket at support.ultimaker.com and link to this thread. But make sure you have the wrong parts in T1, T2 first.

T3 is supposed to be BC807. If the guy who loaded the pick and place machine put the BC807 parts in the wrong slot then it would mess up only the led lights and the fan and nothing else and would exhibit exactly the symptoms you have. It would be great if you can diagnose this. That way you can be a bit of a hero and explain an issue that many people will be having soon as I would guess 100 boards went out like this. But this is just a theory at this point.

The only thing I can think of is that they loaded the wrong parts into T1 and T2. But then your printer would have always been this way - is that possible? They should be labelled BC817. You have to remove all 4 screws (make sure power is off) that hold the board in and then flip it over. T1 and T2 are on the left edge - you need powerful reading glasses or a magnifying glass to read the labels on those.

Mine takes 4.5 minutes. So power supply is fine. No need to power it down over night. 0% they are brighter? 0% fan is faster? what the hell? I go look at schematic.

Here's that link again - fixed I hope: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1091_Main_board_v2.1.1_%28x1%29/Main%20Board%20V2.1.1.pdf Do you have a volt meter? You want to measure the voltage coming into the UM2. Did you try powering off the brick for an hour or longer? That brick has a computer in it and it can get in a bad state but it takes hours or days to reboot it because the brick holds so much power for so long. To make things clearer - even if your printer is off for an hour the brick is still plugged in and powerd up. You need to unplug it for a VERY long time for it to reboot. I'll show you which pins to measure after dinner...

This is very common. The problem is that the feeder stepper motor skips back because there is too much force on the filament (> 5kg). The bottom layer is thicker (.3mm) plus sometimes we level it a little too close (on purpose to get the part to stick well). To avoid this print even slower on the bottom layer. I usually print 20mm/sec bottom layer but consider printing even slower if you want it perfect. Or alternatively turn all 3 screws clockwise (looking from below) by 1/4 turn to give more space for that filament. Also consider maybe increasing the temperature up to 240C for the first layer only. This makes the filament more like honey and less like toothpaste which makes it easier for the feeder.

Sounds like your 24V is bad. Try unplugging the power supply for an hour - it really takes that long (sometimes a few days!) for it to completely power down - you can tell because that little blue led stays on for a long time. Then plug it all back together and see if your LED's are brighter. it's also possible that your eeprom settings are messed up - in there it sets the scale factor for you filament chosen and your led brightness. You can do a "reset to factory settings" and it will reset all those values but you will also lose your "odometer" reading so you might want to check how many hours you ahve printed first and write that down. I don't think it's eeprom settings though - you can check under your filament settings to see what the fan multiplier is - for PLA it should be 100%. You can get the board layout and schematic of the UM2 here - I would check the voltage going in and out of K1. K1 may be defective and lowering the voltage when the heated bed is on. If 24V is good your heated bed should get from 20C to 60C in about 2 minutes. So you can test that also - if it takes say 10 minutes then it's not 24V. It's something less. It's much more likely your power brick is bad than anything on the white board, but again, K1 is the first place to check. ULTIMAKER 2 SCHEMATIC - click "raw": https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1091_Main_board_v2.1.1_%28x1%29/Main%20Board%20V2.1.1.pdf

Because you are pushing the limits you need to know a few things. Every UM2 is a little different. For example the Olsson block decreases the height by maybe 2mm. If the fan shroud is bent different it can hit the walls. Sometimes the limit switch gets hit early and you have less space on one side and moving the limit switch by 1mm can make a difference (just bend the arm a little). So you need to find out what the actual build volume is for your particular printer and write it down. So install pronterface on a PC or mac - preferably a laptop because you need to connect the PC to your printer through a usb cable (you can always pick up the whole printer and bring it to the computer). Get pronterface here. It's free: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ It's not an install actually - just copy the files anywhere and double click on "pronterface". Then do "connect" and if that works you have HUGE control over your printer that you didn't before. Home the axis and then type in gcodes like this: G1 X100 That moves X axis to position 100. Then go to 200 and then move 1mm at a time until the head stops moving and the belt starts tightening. go further until the stepper skips. Note where the head stops moving *and* where the stepper skips a step. If the head skips a step you basically ruin your print. If the head stops moving you get a flat spot on that side of the print. Repeat for X,Y,Z axes. Anytime you skip a step rehome that axis (or all axes). Consider modifications to get a little more space. If you change your leveling position (e.g. by putting in a larger nozzle) then you will change your Z height also. If you bend the X or Y home switch a bit you can also alter your space a little possibly. Or if you can bend in your fan shroud a bit. Please report back on how much your maximum space ended up being!

I believe it's the M1 gcode that does a pause - but really you should use the "pause at Z" plugin. google it.

First of all 305 is max height, not 315mm. But that is irrelevant to this issue. Try turning off brim and skirt (set to adhesion none and then skirt lines to zero) and see if it is happy then. I mean it should fit - it might be the clips that are somehow messing it up - the collision avoidance doesn't realize I believe that you won't hit the clips. You will have to do some weird stuff to get this to print - maybe tell the machine settings that your platform is actually some larger dimensions - or tell cura somehow that it is not a UM2extended but that it has the dimensions 223x223x305 (the official dimensions on the UM web page). Play around with cura a bit.

I think it was said earlier but cura has an annoying change suddenly at 25% infill where less infill uses a grid pattern and >25% infill uses an alternating pattern on each layer. The alternating pattern is resting on nothing - well it's resting on the cross lines from the layer below going in the other direction - so you only have 100% infill on the cross points.

Mine can do 18mm^3/sec at 220C with .4mm nozzle (I installed the meduza feeder belt adapter thing - it works but I don't really need it) and I still saw that pattern. It has to do with the fact that it is accelerating and decelerating faster than the pressure can build up and reduce in the nozzle. So you get underextrusion in the center and overextrusion on the corners/edges. For a very large part - say 200mm across then 200mm/sec is maybe reasonable as the feeder can (maybe) catch up but for a 30mm cube it had bad infill just like the photo at the top of this thread. It has more to do with nozzle speed and acceleration and bowden characteristics (storage of pressure) than it does with volume of printing - it happens even on very thin layers where you are only printing 3mm^3/sec.

I won't be getting my upgrade for about 2 weeks so I don't know for sure but I strongly suspect it will work fine. I know for sure it can handle the higher wattage heater as I already have a 40W heater on my um2go (and a heated bed). There's nothing else about the upgrade that leads me to think it won't work - certainly the fan thing should be fine. The feeder might require the um2go motor to turn a different direction - but I know you need to load different firmware for the um2go to become a plus anyway. So, yeah, I strongly suspect it will work fine - ask me in a few weeks. Plus I don't know for sure if the new fan shroud will help your print on the right side. I just know more fan is better.