gr5

Lol! I don't have that version yet! Although I was planning to add the tinker version

Are you sure the Z axis is involved? It looks like your X and Y axes aren't perpendicular. I can't tell from the pictures if the Z axis has anything to do with it. But assume X and Y aren't perpendicular - it can only be caused by the rods not being perpendicular. Either the two thinner rods or the 4 longer rods. DHL and other shippers seem to do a horrible job and seem to let elephants sit on the boxes as part of the shipping process such that an originaly square Ultimaker arrives as a parallelogram. I would measure these axis carefuly with a carpenters tool or you can measure the corner-to-corner diagonals at the top to see if everything is square (see if diagonal distances are equal). Using a small carpenters "square" is easier. The problem should be solely in the gantry area. In theory you can loosen all the edge screws, clamp the box a bit *past* square in the other direction and then tighten everythin up again. Alternatively, if you are lucky, it's simply either the X or Y blocks aren't lined up and one or both of the thinner rods that go through the head aren't square. This is much easier to fix - just loosen the pulleys for the 4 long belts - one pulley per belt I think should do it - so only 4 pulleys need to be loosened. Push things back to square and then tighten the hell out of those pulleys - the set screws in the pulleys need to be so tight you are twisting the hex tool (2mm hex wrench needed).

.25mm nozzles get clogged very easily. The hole is just that small. Also you need to print cooler (probably <= 210C) so that the filament doesn't bake in the nozzle for too long. But then that means you have to print even slower. Ah!!

Cold pull for the .25mm nozzles will be around 100C to 120C. I would let it cool to 100C and let it sit for at least 20 seconds. Try the pull just by pulling it (the motor should be off so you can just pull downwards at the feeder). If 5kg or 10 pounds of force won't pull it out, raise the temp by 5C at a time and let it sit there for 10 seconds each time before pulling again. If successful this cold pull will get all the gunk out - you should end up with the filament in the shape of the inside of the nozzle. When the pull is successful let the pla sit at the top of the bowden for 10 seconds to cool before pulling it through the feeder. If it is still soft it will come apart in the feeder and is a pain to get out.

"sleep state"? Are you kidding me? It's overwhelmingly busy! I can't even read half the english posts! It would take me 2 or 3 hours a day to read all the posts each day. Just try to read all the posts from today! here's a link for you: =all&filter[time]=today"]https://ultimaker.com/en/community?sorting=latest&filter[type]=all&filter[time]=today Damn it. I can't get the above link to display right - you'll have to cut and paste it. It's the square brackets around "type" and "time" that are messing it up. Alternatively go here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community Then to the right click on the drop down that says "select" and choose "latest" then change "all time" to "today".

The form1+ has much better resolution than the Ultimaker. But if you really want to try it, you should use 3dhubs.com. That website will allow you to find an individual to print something for you using any type of printer you choose. There is probably someone even nearby where you live and you can go visit the person and the printer when your part is ready and you can discuss 3d printing issues with that person.

The leveling procedure only gets you so far. It's time to stop doing it and just turn the screws. What's happening is your nozzle is too far from the glass. The bottom layer is almost cold before it touches the glass and barely sticking. At some point the part comes loose from the glass and gets dragged around by the nozzle and the filament keeps coming out in a big blob. The fix is to first make sure your glass is at 50C to 60C (no cooler, no hotter). But the main problem is that you need to loosen the 3 leveling screws by the same amount. About a full turn. Just turn all 3 counter clockwise as seen from below right now. Then start a new print and watch the initial traces being laid down. If they aren't pushed flat like a pancake then loosen by a 1/4 turn WHILE IT'S PRINTING. Turn all 3 the same amount because you probably levelled it pretty well. Although if one side is more squished or less then you could do it accordingly. If you get confused about which way to turn don't panic - take your time. You may have to restart the print but so what.

Yes. You got it in one. I don't know about the newer version of cura that came out in July but the older versions of Cura had a formula. Here's the actual code. But as long as shell width was a integer multiple of nozzle width then line width was nozzle width. Unless you click "spiralize" in which case linewidth = shell width (it does the whole shell in one pass). def calculateEdgeWidth():wallThickness = getProfileSettingFloat('wall_thickness')nozzleSize = getProfileSettingFloat('nozzle_size')if getProfileSetting('spiralize') == 'True' or getProfileSetting('simple_mode') == 'True':return wallThicknessif wallThickness < 0.01:return nozzleSizeif wallThickness < nozzleSize:return wallThicknesslineCount = int(wallThickness / (nozzleSize - 0.0001))if lineCount == 0:return nozzleSizelineWidth = wallThickness / lineCountlineWidthAlt = wallThickness / (lineCount + 1)if lineWidth > nozzleSize * 1.5:return lineWidthAltreturn lineWidth

There are 3 fans on the printhead - not sure which fan you mean. The 2 side fans are wired in series - joined by a jumper wire (usually green). The side 2 fans take 24V in series so they get 12V each. To turn them to 100% is tricky: select PRINT, then choose anything in the menu to print, then immediatly choose TUNE and scroll down to fans and set to 100%. The printer won't start printing as long as you stay in the TUNE menu. As soon as you leave that menu it will start printing if it is warmed up so you might want to just cut power instead. The 3rd fan - the rear fan - on some models it comes on when you power on - even before the lights. On newer models (2015) it only comes on if the test head is above 40C. That one is a 5v fan. Typically it runs from a connector near the middle of the board.d

oh sorry - didn't notice it was UMO. Do you have UMO+? I dont' sell the thermocouple for the UMO, only the PT100 temp sensor which works for UM2 and I assume UMO+ but I don't know 100%. The one I sell is 3mm diameter (heater is 4mm diameter). The temp sensors from ali express and other china locations are not very dependable. Many of them go open above 200C. I test mine at 260C. I think the ones at fbrc8 are all tested also - I know Simon there built a jig to test them but I don't know if he tests them all. fbrc8 is official parts seller for UM and they manufacture UM2's there. It's the only factory for UM2's outside Netherlands I believe.

Cheaper at my store and I guarantee the part (as does fbrc8) and I test each one at 260C. http://gr5.org/store/

180C is hot enough to loosen filament enough such that you can stick a toothpick in it and remove it. But yes, 260C might help greatly - but only for a few seconds. More than 60 seconds and it slowly gets more premanently solid. For PLA I hate going over 240C. For ABS I don't like going over 250C unless things are moving. And if I print at 255C ABS and print slow - (say .1mm layers [less volume] and only 30mm/sec) then it will eventuall clog everything but if I print much faster (.2mm layers) it will be fine. PLA is a little more forgiving than ABS. PLA is much easier to work with and print and PLA prints usually work better. But ABS is a great material also. I recommend most people stick with PLA for at least 100 prints before moving on to ABS. Also everytime you switch from ABS to PLA you are likely to have trouble with clogs. It's not worth the hassle if you can just stick to one material always. yes. Very slowly and carefully.

I don't think you mean "open". I'm not sure what you are saying. The temperature sensor is called a PT100 both for the nozzle and for the print bed. For this device, the higher the resistance the higher the temperature. Well when you have a wire or an electrical connection partly failing you ALSO have a higher resistance. That is what is happening in your case. There are several things you can check real quick without sending your printing back. First look at the thick cable that connects to the heated bed in the rear left corner. There are 4 wires. The thick wires are for the heater but you are concerned with the 2 thin wires - those are connected to the PT100 sensor. Make sure the screws are tight and those 2 thin wires are not loose. You may have to remove the upper bed to get to it - not sure but it's easy if you need to. The aluminum plate is removed by ONLY removing the 3 leveling screws. Remove glass first of course. The second thing to check is underneath the printer. Remove the larger of the 2 covers. It is held on by only 2 screws. Push up the bed before accessing the screw heads. Everything is labelled. The first "TEMP" is for the nozzle. The 3rd TEMP sensor is for the bed. Check those wires. If this all seems fine you should contact support.ultimaker.com and they will send you a new bed.

Which version of cura are you using now and do you know what version you were using before? Fortunately installing a newer version doesn't remove the older version. Also all the older versions of software are accessible from the same page you would download the latest cura from.

very strange. I guess you may have found another Cura bug. Try 24% infill just to see what happens.

1) kerberg - you *still* haven't confirmed if we are dealing with ABS or PLA as there is a big difference. But leaving either material in the hot end at 260C for a full minute or two will pretty reliably create a plug in the nozzle. But most especially ABS - that gets extra gunky/waxy like cold chewing gum even though it is hot. 2) Also what coutnry to you live in kerberg - advice varies depending on the country as there are different support centers around the world and different suppliers of parts and different kinds of chemicals are found at different kinds of stores depending. 3) Getting temp sensor out. This is kind of important as to clean out your clog you probably have to heat that brass to something like 500C and burn everything out as at this point you seem to have a pretty good clog in there. If it's abs you can soak the whole thing in a jar of acetone for 24 hours but that won't work well with PLA. So anyway - getting that temp sensor out - make sure the threaded thing is removed as that holds the temp sensor in. It's very common for the temp sensors to be crimped such that they are oversized at the tip and can get stuck inside the nozzle block. I fixed my block by routing it for 30 seconds with a smaller drill bit. It's very delicate so be careful. I've broken 2 temp sensors already. It helps to add a drop of oil to try to get it to penetrate. It also helps to heat the head and pull it out while the head is still hotter than the sensor. But sometimes you have to take a small drill bit and drill in from the other side until you feel it hit the temp sensor. Then stop quickly and remove the drill bit and then push out the temp sensor with a paper clip. Sometimes you will end up destroying the temp sensor. I sell them but only if you live in USA. Ultimaker will for sure send you a free one if you damage it and create a ticket at support.ultimaker.com. 3dsolex.com sells them also.

It's fine - just don't put much force on it. This is not very strong. I'm saying to *almost* touch the block. Have it as far as possible but don't let the block touch the fan shroud. This means having the round nut turned almost as far as it can go.

Oh - the Z endstop switch is in the hole under the Z stage - under the bed you can see a long screw that pokes down into the hole. make sure that one clicks also.

Also look carefully at your 3 endstop switches. They are tucked into the corners. When you push the head into the corner (rear left I think) you should hear them click. If not something is in the wrong position - perhaps you have to bend the switch's metal bar a bit or something isn't lined up right.

DON'T TAKE OF THE SIDE PANELS! Lol. You don't need to. Unless you meant the metal cover. The metal cover comes off with removing only one or two screws (depending when you got your UM2). Anyway, it sounds like the set screw fell out. You can try to get one of those at a hardware store. I assume it's an M3 (metric 3mm screw). Shipping is amazing the damage it can do to a printer. Certainly ultimaker support can send you some more set screws. If you live in USA they will ship from memphis.

You can print fine at .2mm, just at half the speed as .1mm. Are you exceeding the speeds of my point #1 above? If not and you are having underextrusion then I agree your printer has an issue. It's probably one of the 10 issues above but that is not a complete list. Still it's the most common issues and you should be able to eliminate some of those just by reading them. For example if your room as at a nice cool 20C and you still had the problem then #10 is eliminated.

What's your infill percentage in the new Cura? It looks like you have it set to 0 or something less than 3%.

Below is my standard post containing some of the more common issues. Most likely it's #6 since this is a recent problem and you checked #2 already. Second most likely would be changes in filament brand or when you put the head back together #5 or if you have hot weather then #10. CAUSES FOR UNDEREXTRUSION AND HOW TO TEST FOR THEM AND REMEDY THEM As far as underextrusion causes - there's just so damn many. none of the issues seem to cause more than 20% of problems so you need to know the top 5 issues to cover 75% of the possibilities and 1/4 people still won't have the right issue. Some of the top issues: 1) Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers): 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA. 2) Isolator - this is most common if you've printed extra hot (>240C) for a few hours or regular temps (220C) for 100 hours. It warps. It's the white part touching the heater block. Test it by removing it and passing filament though it by hand. 3) Curved filament at end of spool - if you are past half way on spool, try a fresh spool as a test. 4) curved angle feeding into feeder - put the filament on the floor -makes a MASSIVE difference. 5) Head too tight? Bizarrely MANY people loosen the 4 screws on the head by just a bit maybe 1/2 mm and suddenly they can print just fine! Has to do with pressure on the white teflon isolator. 5b) Bowden pushing too hard - for the same reason you don't want the bowden pushing too hard on the isolator. 5c) Spring pushing too hard. Although you want a gap you want as small as possible a gap between teflon isolator and steel isolator nut such that the spring is compressed as little as possible. 6) clogged nozzle - the number one problem of course - even if it seems clear. There can be build up on the inside of the nozzle that only burning with a flame can turn to ash and remove. Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that's more obvious (it just won't print). Atomic method (cold pull) helps but occasionally you need to remove the entire heater block/nozzle assembly and use flame. 7) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose 8) Other feeder issues, one of the nuts holding machine together often interferes with the feeder motor tilting it enough so that it still works but not very well. Other things that tilt the feeder motor, sleeve misaligned so it doesn't get a good grip. Gunk clogging the mechanism in there. 9) Filament diameter too big - 3mm is too much. 3mm filament is usually 2.85mm nominal or sometimes 2.9mm +/- .05. But some manufacturers (especially in china) make true 3.0mm filament with a tolerance of .1mm which is useless in an Ultimaker. It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain 9b) Something wedged in with the filament. I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them. One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn't think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube. 10) Hot weather. If air is above 30C or even possibly 25C, the air temperature combined with the extruder temperature can soften the filament inside the feeder such that it is getting squeezed flat as it passes through the feeder - this is obvious as you can see the problem in the bowden. The fix is to add a desk fan blowing on the back of the printer.

.2mm requires double as much plastic flowing through the nozzle in a given second so it's not surprising at all that it has more trouble.

Yes regarding i2k. I try to make the round nut (gray) as loose as possible but still keep the block from touching the fan shroud. Maybe 0.5 to 1mm gap between fan shroud and brass block. To do this means tightening the round nut almost all the way.