gr5

Oh one more thing - before you can move the extruder you need to enable "cold extrudes" because the E axis won't move unless the nozzle is > 170C. From pronterface you can enable cold extrudes with the gcode: M302 To disable cold extrudes just turn your printer off and on again.

steps/mm for UM2 family extruder axis is supposed to be 282.

I would be ABSOLUTELY AMAZED if your steps/mm for the E axis is the wrong value. If that were the case I would have to tell many people about this.

On UM2 to update steps/mm you will need to get pronterface firmware here: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ Connect a USB cable from computer to printer. Get pronterface to connect. Once it connects it will tell you the current values for many settings including PID settings and the steps/mm for all 4 axes. You can change the steps/mm using gcodes but first let us know what value you have currently. Test by removing filament (just pull it half way out with head at 180C but power off - you shouldn't have to pull very hard). With filament half way out, mark the filament with a pen. Then using pronterface tell extruder to move 100mm. Then measure movement with a ruler. If it moves 5% less than 100mm then increase steps/mm by 5% and so on. gcodes explained here: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code M500 stores current values to the eeprom so you don't lose when you power off M501 displays current settings (also pronterface does this automatically when it connects) To set the steps/mm for E axis (extruder) do this: M92 E836 Where 836 in above example is steps/mm. After changing this value test again and then save with M500 command.

If you have a UMO then it changes many of my answers above! In particular you should check the spring on the feeder - you want it compressed until it is about 10-11mm when it is clamped on the filament.

On UMO go to CONTROL MOTION TUNE and E steps/mm should be about 836. Ideally you want to put filament in the extruder, mark it, tell it to extrude 100mm of filament then measure how far it moved. If it moved only 90mm then increase steps/mm by 10%. Don't mess with these values normally. Particularly don't touch the x,y,z steps/mm. If you change this value in the TUNE menu and then turn off your printer you will lose your setting. You have to save it to eeprom.

@esteban-pacheco - I can't tell you how to modify steps/mm unless you tell me what printer you have. It doesn't say in the first post. It doesn't say in your profile settings. And I don't want to go back through 6 pages to find out. Please update your profile settings.

I thought you said the opposite. I think a video at the start would have explained this all better. I've never used Cura to control a UMO+. I'm not sure that's still supported officially. What if you print using the SD card? I don't recommend using Cura to level your machine. Just home (z only) with the ulticontroller and adjust the leveling screws such that the head just barely touches on 3 spots near the 3 leveling screws.

Go to: http://support.ultimaker.com and tell them the same thing and they will send you those parts.

No that's right: 1/4 outer, 1/8 inner. The problem is the tolerance is not so good on these tubes as they are used with airconditioners and the inner diameter isn't consistent. So ultimaker buys a huge roll and tests the tubes by passing filament through or something similar and throws lots of the tube away. you can buy some "extra slippery" tubes through 3dsolex.com (or gr5.org/store/ in usa). Oh - the tube isn't in my store yet as I only have one in stock but if you are in USA or Canada or Mexico then contact me and I'll give you pricing - I think it might be $8 - I forget. Mine are very slippery on the inside. Otherwise 3dsolex.com. Well fbrc8.com sells them also I believe (USA only). What country are you in anyway?

You can set the temp up to 15 degrees lower than max temp in the Configuration.h file. You have to make a custom Marlin build. So if you want 310C to be the max set the max temp in the Configuration.h file to 325C and then rebuild Marlin.

Also if you model is good you can uncheck all the "fix horrible" checkboxes as they make a good model print badly.

Also never ever print a part without looking at it in Cura layer view. If you had done that you would have seen the problem before writing gcode to SD card. Also use the xray view in cura and it shows problems with your model in red.

What do you mean it stops? it shouldn't stop until it's done. Does the print kind of fade out near the end like it might be underextruding the last few layers? Does power go completely off? Or does it keep printing in thin air? The printer shouldn't stop many hours early unless you hit all 4 X/Y limit switches - in that case it might print really really fast and finish the last 10 hours in just a few minutes. Is the nozzle still hot? It's supposed to shut down. I see you have a tall print - the last line goes up to 183mm. But still that should not trigger the Z switch. Just please give more details about exactly what state the printer is in when you come back to it. The only thing to make it shut down completely would be a failure in the power supply brick which if you unplug and plug it back in will turn it back on.

Yes it's more complicated. First of all it's in mm/minute so just divide by 60 to get mm/sec. example: 100mm/sec is feedrate of 6000. Feedrate is the requested speed for ALL 4 AXES. It's an old term for old CNC and other machines e.g. milling machines and lathes. It is used because certain materials can be cut at certain feed rates. Anyway - back to 3d printing. It is the requested speed for all 4 axes (X,Y,Z,E) so if you then do a movement in only one axis that axis will go at that speed but is constrained by the max speed for that axis. Also movement is constrained by max jerk setting and by acceleration for that axis. If you make a movement using multiple axes (most often you move X,Y and E at the same time) Marlin will move linearly. It won't move all axes at max speed because then you wouldn't get a straight smooth movement. You want the E axis to speed up at the same time as you speed up the other 2 axes and so on. So the actual movement speed may be slower but Feedrate is the desired speed. On the control panel for UMO and UM2 you can go into TUNE menu and adjust the requested speed by a certain percentage. Marlin will multiply this by the gcode feedrate to get a REQUESTED speed. The actual speed may be lower, again due to acceleration or max speed on any of the axes that are moving. It's rare for the Z axis or the E axis max speed to restrict the actual speed. Usually the X and Y axis are the axes going as fast as possible (at the requested feedrage). So most people think of this as the X and Y speed but in reality the "F" parameter controls all 4 axes.

Keep in mind that this is a generic arduino product and for every person with an ultimaker there are 100 with an arduino. So you can google how to load a hex file onto your arduino using the arduino toolkit.

That is excellent. So did you note down the baud rate and also the COM port number? I think you can force cura to use a specific com port and baud rate. Not sure how to do that. You can't use it while pronterface is using it so close pronterface before opening cura. Pronterface should tell you the version number/name of the software maybe? Well I would guess marlin is pre-loaded on those white circuit boards and then placed in a stockroom and it should be easy to grab the wrong PCB or to think "oh - we are out of UMO PCBS - why can't I just grab one from over here?". For assembled machines of course you would never get it wrong as they would catch that in QA or earlier.

lowering thickness to 2.84 is no different than changing flow. They are just 2 ways to do the same thing. I would only modify filament thickness if the filament thickness actually changes. steps/mm? Well all 4 steppers (x,y,z,e) have a parameter called steps/mm. You are supposed to set that to the correct calibrated value for your machine. It should be the same value for ALL ultimakers. It's possible to set that value purely through gcodes. For example if you connect to your printer through a USB and launch pronterface, before you do anything pronterface tells you a ton of things about your machine including PID settings and steps/mm for all axes. Acceleration settings, and much more. You might be able to change this from the control panel as well. I guess it's possible someone messed with this value by accident. Or through gcodes. I mean simply printing a gcode file could change the value but not one created by cura - it would be a custom gcode file meant to mess with your calibration.

Marlin is the firmware that comes with all Ultimakers. So that would be one option. Ultigcode works fine for UM2 but I really don't know if it works for UMO+ as my UMO has a different controller board. I mean ultigcode definitely won't work on my UMO. But maybe it works on UMO+? Part of my doesn't think so. Another part of me thinks... maybe.

But if you home it from the controller it should go *up* to home, not down. If it's moving the wrong direction then one of the motor's wire pairs could be backwards (check wiring versus the other steppers) or you have the wrong firmware or something like that.

That's pretty hot!

I really don't like using different speeds for shell versus infill, etc. So I would set these to zero so they default to print speed: infill speed top/bottom speed outer shell speed inner shell speed Just those 4. Having the printer change speeds between shells or between infill and shell can cause issues - I wouldn't mess with that until it's time to shave off a few minutes on a 5 hour print and you are an expert. I notice it says gcode flavor: ultigcode. I don't know if you mentioned this but is this using ultimaker2 marlin? Or ultimaker "normal" marlin? Because ultigcode won't work with normal marlin. For normal marlin you have to choose "rep rap". Your other settings look fine. Print ABS is tricky. It warps severely. It clogs easily. It's best to enclose the whole machine so it heats up to about 40C inside. You need PVA glue (found in glue stick, wood glue, or hair spray) on glass. You need to use the brim feature in cura. You need to use much less fan for ABS - I usually do 30% fan max for ABS and if there are no overhangs I do zero fan. I recommend not printing too slow. 30mm/sec at .1mm layers at 255C will clog your nozzle for sure. If you go above 240C you need to keep the speed multiplied by the layer height above 6 - so 60mm/sec at .1mm layers or much better, 30mm/sec at .2mm layers. You also need to print hotter. I recommend starting at 245C to start with. If you have bad layer adhesion (parts break too easily along layer lines) then you need to do either less fan, hotter nozzle thickness, or possibly change layer thickness (I think .1 to .2 is ideal - any thicker or thinner and you *might* get layer adhesion issues where the previous layer isn't melting into the new layer). Also for ABS you need a very hot bed to prevent warping - 110C is best but 100C is good enough if that's the hottest you can get to.

It just means the directory is non-existent or empty. I would find this move command inside the .sh and add an echo before it to display what $_OUTDIR is equal to. I'm not good with bash shell scripts but this should work: echo "displaying the bad path..." echo $_OUTDIR/App/

So back in January Ultimaker shipped me a UM2go and a UM extended to test out. At that point I had 4 ultimakers. The extended (only) had this problem - top surfaces would not fill. It was frustrating and took me 2 days to get it working nicely. I have since shipped the printer back because they wanted it back. My notes are old but I printed a small test cube many times with .8mm wall and the walls were not making good contact such that I could put my fingernail between the 2 shells and bend the outer wall outward. It looked like your photos above. I had forgetten about this until today. Remember - this was a completely brand new printer. Anyway I fixed it by doing a few things. I ended up printing a bit hotter, slower, moving filament to floor and increasing flow to 110%. My notes say my final print was 35mm/sec 220C with 50C bed (although I don't think the bed temp matters at all). I did .2mm layers (should be able to print twice as fast with .1mm layers). I think putting the filament on the floor was important but I don't know. Certainly the most important step was increasing the flow. I was never able to get it to look right without doing that. I have 4 Ultimakers now (but that one is gone) and I *never* have to increase the flow. Maybe I should have checked steps/mm. I probably did. I don't remember. The first step to solving your problem is creating a very small test case that only takes a few mintues to print. If it takes more than 30 minutes to print to see the problem then you will take days and days (weeks?) to fix this. Not one day like myself. I was able to change settings and print again and again and mark each print with a permanent marker and keep good notes. I was so sure increasing the temperature was all I needed to do but that only helped so much. No matter how slow I printed it seemed to make no difference beyond a certain point. Now I wish I still had that printer so I could do more tests.

Colorfabb is very good manufacturer. If you have problem #8, which is rare, you can tell because the filament spirals through the feeder and there is a spiral pattern on the filament in the bowden tube. also if you look at the knurled feeder shaft it is tilted. To actually see the nut in question you have to remove the feeder motor and look underneath it. It is similar to having a pebble under an iron causing it to tilt a bit. I doubt this is your problem but check everything.