gr5

You must add oil so it slips nicely through the bowden. Do a "change filament" and add a drop of oil near the tip, then reload the filament. Then add a drop of oil every 2 to 4 feet - unwind the ninjaflex and have a meter or so hang down towards the floor. I printed ninjaflex at 240C just fine. 230C was too cold for me. Don't go too hot or it might caramelize. I was able to get perfect smooth surface with no underextrusion.

Stick with the RSB nozzle for almost everything. Definitely try out the .6 or .8mm nozzles - these print so amazingly fast. The resolution isn't as good but it's still pretty cool. The .6mm can print quite reasonable quality twice as fast.

Also it's hard to get the bottom layer perfect (always adjusting flow and such) and so it may take 5 tries to get a good red layer but the remaining white part always works perfect.

Also it's hard to get the bottom layer perfect (always adjusting flow and such) and so it may take 5 tries to get a good red layer but the remaining white part always works perfect.

I have made about 25 of these clips. There is only one model of the clip but many models printed in red filament. The Text is done only .1mm high both in the model and in Cura. In some examples I went .2mm high and it looks a bit darker/better. Then the white model with a flat bottom is printed later on top. Two very important details: 1) the white model has a thicker bottom layer so it won't bump into the red layer. So the white part has a bottom layer of 0.3mm and the next can never be thicker than .2mm I assume. 2) The white model has a flat bottom - I don't bother making a different model with subtracted areas for the letters - no need. You can see this in my second image above where the white "bottom" layer is diagonal and ignoring the letters. I always print 3 at a time - 3 bottom layer text and then 3 clips on top. It saves lots of time as the most time consuming part is changing filaments back and forth.

Just to give you more ideas regarding text on prints - these are some drink clips that clip on a glass so you can keep track of who's glass it is.

The brass nozzles are all general purpose nozzles. Brass is a commonly used material and in fact Ultimaker also uses brass for the nozzle part. Steel nozzles are special purpose for materials that have particles (brass fill, carbon fiber fill) that wear down nozzles fast. Steel nozzles aren't popular because they don't transport heat as well so you have to print hotter. Swordriff sells several different size nozzles as well as many other useful things on his website.

Look at the part in layer view and look what is happening there. I think this is where your outer layer starts and ends. Make sure your nozzle is .4mm and your shell is .8mm. Try printing at a slow percentage in the tune menu for a few layers and see if these go away - try 20mm/sec for a few layers to see if that's better. So if your normal speed is say 40mm/sec then print at 50% for several layers. If your normal speed is 50mm/sec then print at 40% speed (just divide 100*20/(your speed) to get percentage).

Try printing much slower - try 30mm/sec or even 20mm/sec. As you approach the "jerk" speed (20mm/sec) you will sometimes get less "errors" like this. I would set the speed to maybe 100mm/sec and then set the speed percentage in the tune menu to various values from 20mm/sec to 40mm/sec and document where on the print you are to see what speeds do what and cancel the print if it's no better at 20mm/sec. This little mark is where it goes from the outer layer shell to the inner shell. There is an older version of cura that you can try that always puts the "scar" in the back left corner so you in that version you could rotate the part as needed to put the scar wherever you wanted.

Before I added the HBK my wooden bed would droop easily .1mm every day and I would have to relevel constantly. Partly because I had a heavy home built heater. Now it stays "level" consistent for a month no problem.

I have been using cura 15.01 since January and it works fine for me. Please post *all* your settings. Easiest to do a "file -> save profile" and post the ini file result. There are all kinds of things that if you mess with the quality is destroyed. Or you can reset to default settings, then do .8mm shell (to get 2 passes) 20% infill (no more than that!) and print nice and slow for good quality - what's the rush? Try 35mm/sec for all speeds both infill and shell. Bones are hollow with very little infill and they are strong. Your parts shouldn't need much infill either.

Wow. I've been pretty lucky I guess. Are you absolutely sure it isn't the power supply? I get problems all the time with the power supplies and have to let them cool down for a few hours and sometimes a few days. I have 3 UM2 power supplies and 2 printers and they are always dying on me (but never during a print) about once per week. But they always recover. One of the symptoms is the blue light is off. So no lights come on at all? No LEDs? No Display? And no fan (3rd fan behind print head)? If so then the problem is probably simple. Do you know someone good with schematics and a multimeter? The circuit diagram is in this large pdf file here: ULTIMAKER 2 SCHEMATIC - click "raw": https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1091_Main_board_v2.1.1_%28x1%29/Main%20Board%20V2.1.1.pdf I would take the cover off the PCB plug it in, turn it on and start checking that 24V reaches past the switch. I bet it doesn't even reach that far.

Or ignore ultiarjan and just set the temp on your UM2. You can either do it after the print starts printing in the TUNE menu or you can go to material settings on the UM2 and create a custom change, set the new temp, save it, and select PLA after choosing the save option (that's not an obvious step!).

Notifications aren't emailed you - instead they appear in the BELL icon at the top of this page and all forum pages.

I still have the original heater and it works fine for me. But I also have the software that doesn't bitch about "heater error" (firmware version 14.09).

Also it takes about 12 line movements before the change in flow takes place so you need to start the change well before the top layer.

150% sounds like a lot but I think you'd be surprised how small a difference it makes. Start with 130% though. If you have too high a flow the pressure may get too high and you might get a feeder skip-back followed by underextrusion.

There is a setting related to retraction called "enable combing". This tells Cura that you don't have to hope or retract as long as you are "inside" the outer shell and so movements will stay inside the part (for example if the part is C shaped it will move within the boundary and not cross over open space). Unchecking this option will enable more retractions on the bottom layer. An alternative that works really well is to change the cad model such that the bottom is solid and the 4 holes start on layer 2. Then just drill out the holes. You will get a much nicer look.

Try setting the shell width to 2.2 (and nozzle to 1.1) and I think that might help quite a bit. Also why not print the part flat with the visible side flat on the glass so it looks great?

I read this forum every day and don't know the answer. I have heard "500 hours" but at what temperature? I get the feeling it's around 500 hours at 220C but much shorter at 250C and longer at cooler temps. Also the tension on the isolator can vary quite a bit depending on who assembled your printer. I've seen UM2's fresh from UM where if you grab the bowden on top of the head you can move it up and down a mm or two. And other's where that's nice and tight, and other's where that's too tight. Also the spring pushing down on the white isolator part is pretty strong and depending on how high the nozzle is positioned (it's adjustable on purpose) the spring can be pushing harder or less hard. That spring tension, combined with the bowden tension, combined with printing temperatures will all cause this to vary quite a bit. Now I see you are in the UK so I recommend buying an i2k from 3solex.com for half your machines and getting new isolators from UM and see if the machines with the i2k do any better. The i2k will keep the isolator at 100C even if you print at 260C but only if you have zero retractions. With retractions it's unknown what the temp is at the base of the isolator. Did your printers come with extra isolators? UM started shipping 2 spare isolators with each printer I believe. If you got your printers before they started doing that they will usually give you at least one for free. Or you can get them at a decent price also at 3dsolex.com. The tolerances on this part are very very tight so don't get this part through ebay or china.

Nice photos. In the bottom picture something looks wrong - the inside of the isolator doesn't look like a cylinder anymore. Is that true or is it some kind of illusion? Having a place for hot filament to bulge out into is a serious problem and would explain your issues. There may have been too much pressure or you may have been printing rather hot. 200 hours at 260C wouldn't surprise me but 200 hours at 210C should be not so bad. Also in your profile settings please post what country you are located in. This affects many things related to our answers and advice. Also please mark that you own a UM2 while you are in there. You can get free isolators (that white teflon part) from Ultimaker or you can buy them from 3dsolex.com, fbrc8.com, gr5.org/store/ and other locations depending what country you are in. Didier where do french people get teflon isolators? Do you have a store or do they email you?

I will typically heat up the head to 180C in case there is PLA holding it in and then if it doesn't come out easily after 1 minute at that temp I will use a large screwdriver or something similar to pry it out.

@lars86, I've not noticed this bouncing before - it sure is clear in your video. I will keep an eye out for it in the future. But there are settings: ZACC - Z acceleration and ZJERK settings that you can play with - I think maybe they can be messed with DURING a print in the TUNE menu. If not hopefully they are in the motion menu. If not you can mess with them with gcodes. If you don't do a M500 they go back to default on the next power cycle which is probably desirable when experimenting. Anyway I would set the ZJERK to zero and lower the ZACC by a factor of 2 or 4 and see if that fixes your bouncing. On the UMO which had a wood bed this was more of a problem. Some people added a weight - typically a one pound hunk of metal underneath the front edge. This also changed the resonant frequency.

Oh wait - so this *is* a reasonable speed. Never mind, lol.

That sounds fast. Here are max recommended speeds for PLA (is this ABS or PLA? It looks like Ultimaker PLA but I can't tell): Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers): 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion.