gr5

When you heat the nozzle to 180C or hotter before doing the "atomic pull", also then push the filament into the feeder by hand - it will only move 5 to 10mm. Then let it cool to 90C and pull it out and it should look more "normal".

I'm not impressed. The color is awesome but the strength no different: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7575-strength-of-different-filaments/

Jerk is described here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5438-question-about-acceleration-jerk/

Do you have your own custom heated bed? If so you might want to go back to that version of Marlin or you can build one just for your heated bed here: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ The versions of Marlin that come with Cura only deal with Ultimakers unusual version of a heated bed.

Did you read my posts in #3 above? I think you should read the first post in each of those topics/links even if things are working now. And definitely do the test.

You will be fine. The newer supply can supply one extruder and the heated bed. Or both supplies without the heated bed. If you need all 3 heaters then you need to use both supplies always. You still have the "old" supply for your printer - just skip the connecting power cable as mentioned earlier (I think in this thread).

Robert's design is clearly the most downloaded and most popular and I was shocked to see one on a UM2 at a mini makerFaire in Boston a few weeks ago. But there are at least 2 more feeders you missed that are more popular than ultiArjan's: 1) Takei Naodar's design won't fit on the back of the UM2 so you need to also print his very clever spool holder: https://www.youmagine.com/users/takei-naodar 2) Sebastian design combines Robert's and Geek's designs - maybe this is the best choice of all! https://www.youmagine.com/designs/yet-another-ultimaker-2-feeder 3) Kevin Lee design (like tank treads): https://0x7d.com/2014/07/improved-ultimaker-2-material-extruder/ There's also the official "printable" version of the existing feeder with no changes other than a metal grommet added (the new UM2's have a metal gromet at the input to the feeder. I don't like this one because you can't remove the filament as easily like you can with the other designs: Ultimaker's design is in these three posts post #500: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/?p=50304 Post #279: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/?p=42330 post #268 http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/?p=42162 I think this second post is more useful. Anyway, contact Bas for a free metal grommet. If I were to print one I think I would look carefully at Sebastians first because a large part of the underextrusion problems is the way the filament *enters* the feeder.

"failed prints" due to ejection of sim card can be "continued". Most important thing is to keep the bed hot while you research what to do as if the bed cools the part will often pop off the bed. Then you can go cry and sleep and then continue the print on a fresh new day. continuing/resuming failed print: read all gr5 posts here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4213-ideas-for-recovering-failed-prints/?p=34788 post #9 here has specific code change example for um2 (ultigcode): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5269-um²-printing-more-than-24-hours-non-stop/?p=46704

If you are in too much of a rush to fix this or figure it out, simply raise the temperature to 240C and print at half the speed you were printing and all should be good.

Yes, underextrusion. What speed/temp/layer height did you use? Here is the limit a UM2 can do: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4127-um2-extrusion-rates-revisited/ Here is a good test. If you run this test it MUST be at 230C for any kind of valid comparison: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/

Here are some materials I've printed and how bendy/strong they are: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7575-strength-of-different-filaments/

Yes. The head can get up to 270C. So this means you can print Nylon also. There are also lots of PLA materials that include powders such as wood dust, stone dust, copper, bronze. Those all work okay. Also you can print "XT" which I think might be PET. And I believe you can print PET but I've never tried it. There are also some flexible materials (flexible PLA, filaflex, ninjaflex) which bowden printers like the UMO and UM2 have trouble with because it's like pushing a string and the feeder is far from the print head. But you can get it to work - you just have to print slowly and oil the filament. I've printed lots of things using ninjaflex. So basically look at the filament description and see the recomended print temperature. As long as it is 270C or less you should be fine.

Keep in mind that those servos are very tough. I think they can get up to 80C no problem, no damage. It's the filament that has trouble. You can of course print with ABS which can get up to 100C before it gets soft but ABS is more difficult to work with in general than PLA. Different brands of PLA have a small difference in glass temperature. You are using "UM" light blue filament I think. I have never had trouble but it's one of the worst filaments UM sells. It is a good filament but the other colors tend to be better. I don't know why. But I love my "UM light blue". It's my favorite color I think for showing off really detailed prints. I have never had your trouble but I also have air conditioning and the room never gets above 23C.

That would make total sense - turn that off. I can't find that in Cura - are you just guessing?

There's definitely something strange going on. 14.09 definitely has more movements at layer change than it used to.

Spiralize is a software hack where (among other things like don't print top) it slices normally and then *after* it adds more and more Z. So if you turn off spiralize you probably *also* get those little blue movements combined with a Z movement just before. But usually cura keeps the Z seam in one spot so you don't get the blue movements whether spiralize is on or not.

Looking back on your original photo it looks like you have "pillowing". I have recently learned more about pillowing (it never happens to me). It can be often fixed by simply increasing fan but sometimes that is not enough. It is caused because the thread is breaking too easily. It is almost always fixed by trying a different filament. Or doing thicker layers (.2mm) because the thread is now thicker and stronger. Or you can do 25% infill (huge difference from 24% infill!!!) which is a different infill pattern that supports the top layer. Or you can print slower (thread is not pulled so fast and hard). Summary: 1) 100% fan 2) different filament 3) thicker layers 4) print slower (half the previous speed - can slow down when you get to the "bad" layer). 5) 25% infill

The nozzle has a nut above it (with about 6 round holes). This allows you to adjust the nozzle up or down which is helpful for dual nozzle printing (which is not available). It is better if the nozzle is further down such that the isolator is also further down such that the spring above the isolator isn't pushing so hard. That's what Sander is talking about. The harder that spring is pushing, the sooner the isolator will deform again.

Woofy in my post #5 above the first line was directed to you and the rest was directed to super grover. Sorry for the confusion.

:-P Both I think. If things are better then try just one. You don't need a strong fan but it needs to be aimed to the motor. The nozzle should be okay - it will automatically adjust within a minute to the new wind. So turn the fan on before you start printing to let the nozzle adjust.

Maybe a small amount. Stepper motors are very strange and use the same amount of current whether they are working hard or just resting but the voltage can change. This means it *might* get hotter when working harder but they are quite hot even when resting!

Try to keep quantity of triangles < 1 million. You will know if you have too many triangles because Cura won't be able to slice it - it will run out of memory (Cura only can use 2GB memory even if you have much more). Thinner slices will use more memory so .1mm slicing uses much more memory than .2mm slicing. I don't know what good values are for sag and step. You don't want too many steps per mm because Marlin has to be always ready to stop printing and it only looks ahead up to about 20 line segments so it doesn't know if there is a sharp corner coming up so it has to always be ready to stop within 20 line segments. If 20 line segments is only 3mm then it will print slow. I'm going to guess "sag" is distance from curve to line and I would say .1mm seems fine. And step I would say maybe .5mm would be fine. But I'm not sure exactly what these mean in Catia.

Next time maybe remove the tube at both ends (remove clips, push down on collar to remove) and don't forget which end is which! The end on the feeder has been drilled out a little wider. Of course you threw that part away! Then push out the bad piece with good filament and if it is melted/welded try dipping in hot water first for 30-60 seconds.

Okay - I think it is time to lower the stepper motor current after all. From cura right-click on the "Save" or "Floppy disk" or "Memory Card" icon and choose "save gcode...". Save on your computer somewhere and open this with text editor (on Windows use Notepad by dragging it onto notepad). Add the line of code as shown in red. By default the current for the extruder axis "E" is 1250 milliamps. Try 1000 or 1100 milliamps. You shouldn't need to go below 1000 milliamps (1 amp). 1000ma might be too small and your motor might skip a lot. It is safe for the motor - it will not hurt the printer. But your print might have missing plastic (small holes). If so try printing a little hotter, 230C (you should try this anyway) and a little slower: ;FLAVOR:UltiGCode ;TIME:1357 ;MATERIAL:3109 ;MATERIAL2:0 ;Layer count: 74 ;LAYER:0 M107 G0 F9000 X104.050 Y101.947 Z0.300 M907 E1000 ; set current to 1000ma - THIS LINE WAS ADDED ;TYPE:SKIRT G1 F1200 X105.507 Y100.634 E0.23536 G1 X105.707 Y100.469 E0.26647

Yes. Tell Sander you need a new one now as it will take days to receive it. Weeks maybe. But you can print fine towards the middle and back of the printer (but might be too far towards the front maybe). As an experiment - so you understand how suddenly PLA changes around 60C, boil some water and pour the hot water into a mug or glass. Already the water should be cooled to 80C. Now take a piece of filament and stick it in the water for 10 seconds and pull it out and bend it. Blow on the filament for 3 seconds and continue bending until it cools and suddenly it changes back to normal. Your fingers can handle much higher heat than it takes to soften PLA. A small fan should be able to keep the stepper motor a little bit cooler - just enough for the PLA to stay strong. Or you can lower the current to the feeder motor. It's easy to do but I don't recommend it as it is good to have the full power of the feeder. I'm still not convinced you have a "heat" problem. But if putting a fan blowing on the stepper helps (blowing from the front) then that would prove that you *do* have a heat problem and we can work on other solutions. Also set your heated bed to 50C (no hotter) if you are blowing air across it to the feeder stepper. You can do this on the TUNE menu after you start the print. It's still possible that you had a jam in the bowden tube and this caused the grinding. Or it's possible the grinding caused the jam/melt in the bowden tube.