gr5

There's a huge show (3dprintshow?) in London every year and a makerFaire in Rome I think every year. Go to those. There was a guy from China at the one last year. Flew in just for MF I believe. Someone from England also.

Sorry - that is for UM Original only. I have both printers. I forgot about that. Ah! That could be the problem. You should always make this a multiple of your layer height. I'm not sure what happens if you do that! Try .6 or .8. It probably underextrudes by 50% on the top layer. Maybe. I don't know. This should always be a multiple of your layer height which you said is .2mm.

Heating the brass is somewhat dangerous as it can melt. However the melt point is about 940C so I doubt you will have a problem if you are careful - don't leave it in the flame continuously - maybe 10 seconds at a time. Make sure everything turns to carbon ash. Also consider soaking it for an hour in a solvent (like acetone) although I never did this myself. Acetone is good at dissolving ABS but not PLA. Ethyl Acetate will destroy any PLA (not dissolve exactly - more like make it weak and brittle). Definitely test it while still not connected to your printer by putting some PLA through it to make sure nothing is clogged - of course you have to heat it with flame first.

Yes! I know what you mean - I've done a few local things like that. And I've been to a mini makerfaire (not like the 70,000 people at MakerFaire NYC though!). But you should see the crowds around the UM booth! It can get busy. It's true I don't work for Ultimaker by the way. And I'm mainly going to makerFaire to see it so I won't be at the UM booth much. But text me if you swing by the booth (message me soon with your contact info if you haven't already!) and I'll run over the the UM booth. There will be about 8 people from this forum there and I'm trying to get them all to show up at the booth at the same time so they can all meet each other.

Everything important will likely appear on the UM website *before* the event starts at 6pm (USA East Coast) Thursday night (11pm United Kingdon) but you can follow my twitter. I expect I will grow from currently 6 followers to maybe 7 followers just for this event only! Maybe 8! woot! I promise to post some pictures before (5pm? 5:45pm) and during the event and if there is info on the UM website I will link to it and if not I will post the key points of the presentation (but I just heard an early explanation of all the announcements and there are lots of boring details that I'm too lazy to type in on my tiny cell phone keypad - like prices and dates and stuff). Sander will likely tweet also. Search for #ultimaker. I will use #ultimaker in my tweets. I will likely take some video but won't likely have time to edit it down to the interesting bits until the next day. So that will probably be useless. Maybe I'll take a few 10 second low-res clips with my cell phone also. twitter: @gr5org

By the way - keep in mind that the APM 2.6 with GPS and compass and accelerometers is just amazing and way more than you need if you just want to have fun. This system is very hackable and can fly autonomously. That means you can plot out the path on your laptop and upload the waypoints to the APM and then just tell it to go and watch and not touch the transmitter. It should auto take off, fly the route, and land. During normal use, if you turn off the transmitter I believe it will just fly back to the launch point (not sure if that feature is available in the current round of open source code but if not it will be soon I'm sure). This functionality combined with the gopro gimbal mount is over half the total cost but it makes it much easier to fly - you can tell it to hover and put the transmitter down and forget about it while you record some video from that angle or whatever and you can hack hack hack. So many features! You don't have to be a programmer as someone else has already written most of the features you might want.

So -- coincidentally I recently started getting much more serious about ordering parts and planning a quadcopter. Here is a first draft parts list based on this quadcopter from Make magazine. My requirements are APM (easier to fly) and gopro compatible with brushless gimbals for the gopro. The total cost for the basic parts is $560 $395 including everything except the frame and some screws and the gopro (already have it) and probably some wiring (but not including shipping of all the parts). I think this list is complete. I am going to go over this list again and order these parts probably Thursday on my train ride to Makerfaire. Another requirement is that I build it myself so that when I crash it (I'm experienced which means I know I will be crashing it a lot) I can fix just the parts that I break. I haven't decided if I'm going to do the simple plexiglass and wood frame or print one. I'm sure version 2 will be printed if version 1 isn't. The legs and prop guards will definitely be printed so probably the whole thing will be. Probably in Nylon which is much stronger than PLA and can withstand higher temps. Any experts out there want to explain why something in my list is completely wrong? I've flown prebuilt indoor copters and also model airplanes but not quads before. Make Magazine article: http://makezine.com/projects/make-37/the-handycopter-uav-2/ First draft parts list with prices and links of at least one place to buy them. Prices include qty so for example $72 buys you four motors. $10 buys you 4 pusher and 4 tractor props (so you have one spare set). I don't even have a LiPo battery charger so that's in there also. [*]APM 2.6 &gps&compass $240 $70 see edit below http://store.3drobotics.com/products/apm-2-6-kit-1[*]motors&mounts $72 3drobotics [*]props (2 sets) $10 http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__34084__turnigy_carbon_mixed_slow_fly_prop_w_adapters_9047r_sf_4_pc_right_hand_rotation_.html [*]brushless gimbals $46 http://www.altitudehobbies.com/ipower-2208-60-brushless-gimbal-motor [*]gimbal controller $30 http://witespyquad.gostorego.com/brushless-gimbal-v3-0-controller-module-w-sensor-martinez.html [*]transmitter/receiver $60 http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8992&aff=1195429 ALSO http://blog.oscarliang.net/turnigy-9x-review-9-channel-rc-transmitter/ [*]ECS $52 (found set of 4 for $37) - should research more: http://www.makershed.com/products/gemfan-30a-electronic-speed-controller [*]battery $8 http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8932__turnigy_2200mah_3s_20c_lipo_pack.html [*]charger $23 (is this right kind?) http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__7028__Turnigy_Accucel_6_50W_6A_Balancer_Charger_w_Accessories.html [*]power module $18.50 http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__43766__APM_Power_Module_with_XT60_Connectors_and_6_Pin_150mm_Cable.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwv9-gBRD5ofn2jd2N0UUSJACcdilsFn_hra2-AT-wOZihgZ1AAI7mB4cOvbWfIJvbYw96vRoCqG7w_wcB edit: By getting a few knock off things I dropped the price quite a bit. The key change was to get this from amazon (1 month shipping): http://www.amazon.com/Andoer-ArduPilot-External-Compass-Controller/dp/B00NGDS9L0/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top Which is $90 and replaces $240+$18.50 above or a savings of $150

Try printing at half the speed you were printing at previously and see if that makes it go completely away. The problem is that the printer pauses briefly at a spot before either going to an inner layer or moving Z axis or retracting. If the printer is moving more slowly then the pressure in the head is lower and when it stops, less will leak out (less pressure means less leakage). Alternatively possibly raise the temperature a bit, but usually lower temperatures improves quality.

It doesn't look blocked - I mean it doesn't look underextruded. But you could raise the temp by 10C if it's a little underextruded or slow it down by 50% when it gets to the top layer. How many solid layers are under the top layer? I recommend at least 4 layers (top thickness .8). In Cura did you enter "2.85mm" for the filament diamter? If you enter "3.0mm" it will underextrude of course.

I will be tweeting Thursday night. Folow @gr5org Last time they had a professional video board guy with like $10,000 of equipment plus a camera man. They had 2 or 3 cameras plus a hook into Erik's laptop. The video board was pretty amazing and I could see what was going on and all the chroma settings and stuff and it showed how many people were watching and so on. I think it cost quite a bit.

Okay - so I guess one of the announcements just came out today. See the main UM website. More announcements should be coming Thursday.

Please let us know what you learn. I would start by playing with the tension. The feeder has two white indicators to indicate tension and a screw accessed from the top that adjusts the tension. Do a google image search for "um2 feeder". Oh - and try sliding the sleeve about 1mm in or out on the shaft.

Like I said - mine is so quiet I can't hear it in a quiet room from 5 feet. The refrigerator in the next room over is MUCH louder. A hurricane in comparison. I have good hearing. It's basically silent. So maybe peel off the sticker and add a drop of oil and put the sticker back on. Or maybe order a new fan. Someone said this one works: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MC25060V2-000U-A99/259-1573-ND/2757803

There are several leveling bugs that are fixed in Cura 14.07 (not sure the firmware version). One is that after you level you get one calibration but then after every power cycle you get a second calibration value. Another bug has to do with the bed being all the way down when you start the procedure or when you home. Either bug could cause you headaches so definitely update firmware. Once you get leveling close, it's best to not use the procedure ever again in my opinion. Just use the screws to get the final .01mm accuracy (if needed).

It's called "atomic method" because it was first mentioned by "mostlyAtomicBob" on this forum. On other forums they call it "cold pull".

Most important: DON'T LET THE GLASS BED COOL!!! Once it does the part will probably pop off the bed and there is no way to continue. Then read above posting.

continuing resuming rescuing failed print First you need to use pronterface to find the exact layer to continue on. Pronterface is here: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ read all gr5 posts here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4213-ideas-for-recovering-failed-prints/?p=34788 post #9 here has specific code change example for um2 (ultigcode): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5269-um%C2%B2-printing-more-than-24-hours-non-stop/?p=46704

Some teaser videos about one or more announcements (to be made Thursday night) were posted recently. 3 of the 4 videos were posted. One more to be posted soon. Here's some screen shots and discussion about what it might all mean: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4939-a-coffee-between-friends-how-was-your-day/?p=68723

I think you are reading too much into it. I think it's 4 videos about one thing. They are all called "going global" so they are probably all about announcing global related stuff. One of them was about USA or "north america" or something? Maybe there is another one about some other country or maybe not.

What's the radius of curvature at the tip of each gear? That's the same as your needed nozzle radius. Measuring roughly with my fingers I'm going to guess 0.1mm. That would mean you could print it on a UM Original if you bought a 0.2mm diameter nozzle. I'm not sure if it would be strong enough for your needs but probably it would be. The normal nozzle for the UM Original and UM2 is .4mm. .2mm nozzles work but they are more likely to clog. But many people have had good success. I don't think you can go any smaller than .2mm. You could print this part on the b9creator easily but I don't know if the resulting material is strong enough - I have heard that the resin is somewhat brittle: http://b9creator.com/ Or the Form1. You could print this part through shapeways.com also.

Welcome! I guess this: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide There have been issues with the filament getting ground up if you have lots of retractions on printers sold in the last month or so. It's very unclear what is going on. Spring too tight? Too loose? Different knurled sleeve? Here's some (unhelpful?) pics: Marks made by 3 different UM2s - the pink left one is the one that grinds up filament. The other 2 can do 10,000 retractions on 8 meters of filament. I don't get much (any?) dust. Also I never used those quick print settings ever. I don't recommend them especially since you probably know most of the lingo and you can hover the mouse over anything you don't understand. As far as the fans - the 3rd rear fan is always on. It comes on even before the lights. Is that what you meant? It was probably just quieter the first time you turned it on. Mine is so quiet I can't hear it more than 5 feet away but some of them are noisy. The side 2 fans should not come on when you power on - if they do the darlington is probably blown.

Here can be found photos and details on getting best possible robot - this was on UM Original but if someone else is reading this, UM2 can print just as well: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6764-printed-test-robot-has-erratic-edges/

Very interesting. Please do "save profile..." and post the resulting ini file here.

There is a small circuit board on the print head. There are 3 wires. One is ground - should be 0V. One is 5V power. The third reports back the temperature to the board underneath the UM. It should report 0V for 0C and 5v for 500C and 200mV for 20C (room temperature). Measure that voltage and make sure it is correct. You may have a bad thermocouple or the little board on the head could be defective also.

Daid who posted above wrote Cura and also modified Marlin quite a bit to get it to work for the UM2. He is pointing out a flag that tells Marlin to ignore the limit switches for anything other than homing. You can comment that out and rebuild Marlin if you want. Marlin has software endstops. Once you've homed the 3 axes you should be fine. Also the UM Original and UM2 are very tough - you are unlikely to damage your machine by going beyond any of the endstops. I think every UM Original and UM2 has gone beyond a few endstops within a year of use. Mine certainly both have.