gr5

You can get *some* stickiness without any glue but you will do better with something on the glass. Here is much more info about what works and what doesn't and what the minimum temperature should be for the heated bed (40 to 50C): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3404-printing-on-glass/

First and foremost - never print anything without looking at it in slice view first. This would have shown what it was going to print. Now to fix the problem. I don't understand what the problem is in you specific case but sketchup lets you put walls anywhere so you can get internal walls inside a solid (which confuses cura) and you can get holes in your objects (also confuses cura). Other cad programs like solidworks or DSM - or openSCAD - well this is impossible. They model solids - not faces. So it's impossible to get this. Anyway Cura has an XRAY mode in the gui. Click that icon and if you see any red there is a problem in your model. Also there are features in advanced called "fix horrible". If your model has no red in xray mode try unchecking all 4 of these. Otherwise you can sometimes fix the print by fooling with these checkboxes (instead of fixing it in sketchup).

Which component? R1? U1? C1? IC1? Some other component?

That would be X axis. Mark the shafts and the pulleys with a pen to see if they are slipping. Actually you only have to mark the 2 pulleys on the short belt - the one with the stepper motor and the one above the stepper. Is it a sudden shift or gradual shift over many layers? Sudden shifts tend to be loose setscrews and gradual shifts tend to be rubbing belt but it could be the reverse on very rare occasions. Especially note if the X short belt (in the back rear) is rubbing on wood (if UM1, rear panel if UM2). It might not look like it is rubbing but you can tell because the belt twists different directions when it switches directions instead of always being square and vertical like the Y short belt. If it *is* a UM Original and if it *is* doing "the twist" thing then it's easily fixed by adding one washer under each of the 4 black plastic spacers. Also make sure the pulley is as close as possible to the stepper without touching the stepper (true for UM1 and UM2). About 0.5mm gap is good.

I'd like to see something similar. Cura has a "minimum layer time" setting that I typically set to 5 seconds. It should instead never print over a spot that was printed less than 5 seconds ago. This would *also* eliminate Conz's "ping-pong". If you print something with 4 islands - like you are printing the 4 legs of a chair - it would never print 2 layers in a row (to save time) but instead it would go back to the coldest island. I understand that the current algorithm saves time but it also causes problems when printing on a layer that is still hot.

As both of the above posters noted - the thing it fixes the most is ringing - look at the pictures in this topic to understand: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2532-prevent-ringing-wobbly-surface-after-sharp-corners/?p=18006 It also makes the printer quieter if you lower acceleration and less shaking the table and also makes it print slower - especially if there are lots of sharp turns that the head has to make such as text. But on a real printer decreasing acceleration doesn't slow prints down too much. Cutting acceleration in half in theory could slow down print time by 30% (square root of .5 is .707) but in practice it might only be 5% if you have many long straight lines such as infill. Cura assumes I believe 3000mm/sec/sec acceleration (or maybe 5k?) so if you go slower Cura will not correctly guess your print times.

Mine had a hole large enough to put my arm into up to my shoulder. Fortunately the printer was fine and nothing was missing. Even without visible damage if they compress it a bit by squeezing two opposite corners of the box they can still damage the printer without damaging the box. DHL and FedEx are good at squeezing the box into curved airplane holds in such a way that the printer is damaged without any noticable damage to the box. Exactly. That's why it's most likely the shipper.

I don't think there is anything wrong with the firmware. You have a problem with the X axis and when both axes move at the same time there is also a problem which leads me to believe that when the X axis makes the noise, the Y axis is not getting enough voltage. The problem could be with your power supply - maybe it can't power the steppers and the heated bed at the same time? I would check the 19V and make sure it is steady when moving the X axis. Also check the friction when power is off on both X and Y axes. The problem may also be in the stepper drivers. There are 4 removable drivers on the PCB underneath the UM. Check that they aren't too hot - the fan is critical when these are in use (when power is applied to steppers even if steppers not moving). I would swap the X and Z axis driver to see if the problem moves to the Z movements or if the problem stays on the X axis. You can purchase these drivers and they don't cost very much at all. Google "pololu" and "ultimaker" to see which ones are the best. Then also google "pololu" alone to see where to buy them. They are sold by color. For example all black pololu are the same specifications. But I think you might want the green ones (I forget).

That's the list of all the changes in Cura - you have to read each one going back to your current version or the previous version. There's lots of changes! Here I found the release note popup code for Cura 14.06. It's in newVersionDialog.py in the /cura/gui/ folder: s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, 'Welcome to the new version of Cura.')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '(This dialog is only shown once)')) s.Add(wx.StaticLine(p), flag=wx.EXPAND|wx.TOP|wx.BOTTOM, border=10) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, 'New in this version:')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* Updated drivers for Windows 8.1.')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* Added better raft support with surface layers and an air-gap. Special thanks to Gregoire Passault.')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* Improved outer surface quality on high detail prints.')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* Fixed bug with multiple machines and different start/end GCode.')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* Added initial support for BitsFromBytes machines.')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* Improved the Pronterface UI with buttons to set temperature and extrusion buttons.')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* Improved bridging detection.')) [...] if self.hasUltimaker is not None and False: s.Add(wx.StaticLine(p), flag=wx.EXPAND|wx.TOP|wx.BOTTOM, border=10) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, 'New firmware for your Ultimaker Original:')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* .')) button = wx.Button(p, -1, 'Install now') self.Bind(wx.EVT_BUTTON, self.OnUltimakerFirmware, button) s.Add(button, flag=wx.TOP, border=5) if self.hasUltimaker2 is not None: s.Add(wx.StaticLine(p), flag=wx.EXPAND|wx.TOP|wx.BOTTOM, border=10) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, 'New firmware for your Ultimaker2: (14.06.1)')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* Fixed a problem with the bed leveling. (Special thanks to stevegt for figuring this out)')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* Improved the start of the print, first moves the bed up before moving to the print.')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* Improved the start of the print, initial filament push is slower so it does not slip.')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* Made sure the head does not bump into the front of the casing at first startup.')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* Fixed support for the PauseAtZ plugin.')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* Added lifetime runtime stats. Allows you to see how long the printer has been running.')) button = wx.Button(p, -1, 'Install now')

I'm pretty sure that's a configuration for the new UM Original heated bed upgrade kit. It's not for sale but to make it easier for beta testers and for UM employees to test it, it is included with the latest Cura. But you can still choose that and then *not* upgrade your firmware and then Cura will prompt you for heated bed temp. But I always set nozzle/bed temp to 0 so that I can set it on the printer. Anyway, I'll double check with Daid.

https://github.com/daid/Cura/commits/SteamEngine

That's for the new Ultimaker heated bed upgrade - not yet for sale. robotfuzz. After installing the hex file from robotfuzz did it show proper temperature of heated bed? Around 20C? I don't understand. You could post a video. Try skipping the Cura wizard and try leveling yourself by goint to z=0 and disabling servos and then push the head around by hand and check with thin paper. Then try printing something. If you still have trouble with servos or end stops please post a short (10 second?) video somewhere.

It looks underextruded. The bottom layer looks fine but it prints slower on the bottom layer. Try raising the temp for black PLA to 230C. 240C is a good safe speed but don't go over 240C unless you are printing very fast - in other words wait until you are more experienced. Even better, just never go over 240C with PLA. I don't know about the other PLAs without more pictures. Please don't post on "postimg.org" because I don't think they will still be hosting that picture 10 years from not. Or even a month from now. How to post pictures: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4525-how-to-upload-an-image-to-the-forum/

Cut the tip of the PLA to a point and try feeding it again.

Um - okay - I think you are going to be a good contribution to the forum. I like this kind of thinking.

That is important but the wooden part is not important. One corner is maybe 5mm lower than the other 3 on my machine.

Many bad prints in years past were because the fan blew on the nozzle tip instead of the part. The nozzle tip always gets some wind but if it gets too much you get underextrusion issues because it is colder than the heat chamber. This was particularly a problem when Ultimaker was testing their new UM2 design (before it came out) and Cura changed the way the fan is turned on quite a bit - it now comes on slowly so that the PID temperature controller doesn't allow the head to cool too much when they first come on. Also there was an issue related to air bouncing off the glass and hitting the nozzle. So the cooling of the white teflon part is instead cooled by the 3rd fan on the UM2.

DHL is very violent when shipping UM2s. You can probably ignore it - Other people have the same issue yet the printer prints beautifully. If you must fix it maybe you can loosen all the screws, then put something very heavy on the top for 24 hours and then retighten. Not sure if that will help.

UM1 or UM2? On UM2 you can set the temp by going to MATERIAL menu and changing the default temp for PLA and than saving that back to the PLA profile. Or every time you hit PRINT and choose something to print you can then go to the TUNE menu and change the temperature there. You can continue to change things in the TUNE menu while it is printing such as bed temp, nozzle temp, fan, print speed. Also it will not start printing while you are in the TUNE menu but once it starts you can go back to the TUNE menu and stay there for the whole print.

Just be aware that there is a small possibility that it is not the glass/bed but rather the gantry - those 2 thin rods for example or the 4 rods. Make sure those are very straight also. You might want to remove the 2 thin rods (4mm I think) and roll them on a flat surface. The shipping companies that ship these printers is very violent with the printers.

For better overhangs the most important thing is 100% fan. So if the overhang is below 5mm from the bed you need to adjust the cura settings. Not as critical - it can help quite a bit to print slow. 20-35mm/sec. Also having a 2-pass-shell helps (make shell thickness 0.8). Also if layer thickness is too thin or too thick this might affect things - not completely sure about this detail - but anyway .08 is a reasonable choice for layer height. So try .8mm shell and print at 20mm/sec just for an experiment to see if any better. Other hints about other printing issues (not overhang) are here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

Thomas please update what country you live in by going to your profile settings.

Nothing needs to be level. You can hang the printer by a rope to one corner upside down and it will print fine. When we talk about "leveling" what we really mean is that as the nozzle is pushed around to the 4 corners it should be EXACTLY the same distance from the build plate - that acrylic flat piece. Well not "exactly" but .01mm would be nice which is 1/10 the width of a piece of paper. Unfortunately wood warps over time (plus humidity affects it) so you have to level the UM Original quite often - maybe every few hours the first few weeks. Fortunately the heated bed upgrade has no wood parts (still in alpha test - hopefully it will be available within a few months).

Also the power itself can be 120V or 240V 50 Hz or 60 Hz. So it's only the cable you need.

This is a difficult problem in slicing. Most slicers probably implement this by drawing the exact same outer perimeter twice. But it would be better if it followed the contour of the part you are slicing. But following the part shape means the two skin layers are quite different - or can be. So where to you put the infill? Where the upper layer is? Or the lower? Or half way between?