gr5

Someone else is teaching a modeling class where they print out the models as part of the class. It doesn't say but I know the guy and he likes solidworks so I assume that's the software. They design and then create bottle openers that require a coin to function: http://www.theprintingbay.org/#classes

Yes. Here is what the latest UM1 looks like: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Ultimaker_rev.4_assembly:_Extrusion_head Ask the seller to send a photo of the head and the feeder as those 2 things have had the most upgrades. Also the UM1 doesn't necessarily come with the Ulticontroller but that is extremely useful and will set you out another bit of money - 200 euros maybe? Look on the Ultimaker.com shop.

Well laser toner comes in multicolors and maybe anon has some extra that he hasn't thrown out yet.

30,000 volts and 40 Watt (not milliwatt!!!!) laser? This seems a bit dangerous. Not to mention the powder. I can't imagine a company like Ultimaker selling these things.

@mairem - there you go again posting questions here. 5 days ago. Again, I only check here once per week or so. It's really not a good place for questions. GLUE, FILLER, PRIMER Everyone says "super glue" aka cyanoacrilic glues work great on PLA. I've tried it also and it works well for me. As for filling people have said "bondo" works well - it's normally used to fill dent's in car doors - my carpenter uses it - I've used it to fill wood holes. It's easy to sand and easy to paint. While at the automotive store buying bondo - pick up some "automotive primer". On the spray can it should say that it is good for "plastic" and "metal". This is a fantastic primer and you can paint with any kind of paint on top (ceramic, latex, oil based, anything).

My um2 fan is hard to hear. I was testing the fan noise again yesterday. I can hear it if I turn my head and point one ear towards it at about 1 meter. If I am facing the machine I can't hear the fan until about 1/2 meter distance. It is quieter than all the laptops and computers in my house. We have 4 laptops and 2 desktops used on a daily basis. My primary computer (this one) I can hear out to about 4 meters if facing it. Farther if I turn my head.

Yes- it might be that you need to raise the bed closer to the nozzle by a very small amount. But this also is how it looks if your short belts are a little loose - you might want to slide the X and Y stepper motors down a small amount. The vertical axis in the photo looks much worse than the horizontal axis in the photo. I think that's because of a bug in the "infill overlap" feature in Cura. By the way - what did you set infill overlap to? It should be around 15% normally. The blob problem *inside* the infill - why do you care? If you get blobs on surfaces one simple fix is to slow down to closer to the jerk speed. Jerk speed is 20mm/sec so try 20-35mm/sec and see if that helps blobs. Blobs are caused by many things - the most common two things are: 1) very high polygon count - Marlin can only plan 10 or 20 moves ahead so it needs to decelerate to half of jerk speed (10mm/sec) if the next 20 line segments are all in the next 3mm or so. Changing speeds often causes blobbing. 2) Different infill speed than shell speed. Slowing down to 30mm/sec is only one way but a simple way to fix most blob issues.

You can disable this by going to "tools" and choosing "print all at once". Don't know why you can't slice. Try .4mm layers just for kicks to see if that helps as it slices much faster when layers are thicker. There is a log file somewhere that might show what the problem is.

Another quick test to see if you have the leveling bug - turn off power, push the bed all the way down until it stops. Then twist the Z screw and count how many clicks you feel until you hear the Z level switch click off. I get 16 or 17. Take that result and divide by 6.25 and that's how many mm that distance is. If that distance is > 3mm then you have a leveling problem (won't be repeatable). If you get 19 or more, then fix by bending the Z limit switch arm slightly.

Oh yeah baby! Printer porn! It's beautiful! It's perfect!

That's impressive - you should get really good results that way. I think you're going to want the new heated bed when it goes for sale - it's much stiffer and more consistent (made from steel) and flatter (glass).

Steve if you turn off power on your UM2 and rotate the z screw with your fingers so that it goes all the way down, then go up and count the stepper motor steps - how many steps does it take before you hear the Z limit switch click? For me it's 16 to 17 (2.56 to 2.72mm).

No! The thin wall problem is very well known and understood. Cura is much better than other slicers that I know of for thin walls. Instead you should either print thicker walls or get a smaller diameter nozzle. Or write a whole new slicer. e.g. Cura insists on 2 passes but can get very close to your shell thickness but kisslicer which only insists on one pass does a much worse job on thin walls. Cura is actually pretty amazing how well it handles thin walls. If instead you leave the nozzle at .4mm and set the "shell" thickness to .3mm you can get some decent results with hardware that "shouldn't be able" to print that thin.

It's most likely one of the 2 X limit switches. Are the cables getting tangled up in the belts maybe? When a limit switch triggers for a given axis the other axis keeps going. You can unplug the X switch on the right side as you really don't need it. Marlin has "software endstops" which work quite well. If that's the problem switch then you are "done". If it's the left one you have to figure out whats going on. I would turn off power and hook up a multimeter to the far end of the limit switch cable (under the UM) and then push the head around and poke at the wires and such.

For UM Original: If your nozzle is cold I still recommend using paper as it gets thicker when it heats up (thermal expansion). If your nozzle is hot I recommend turning the 4 screws 1/8 turn to compensate for the paper thickness. @anon4321 - I added "UM Original" to your title to clarify. Also I changed the all caps as it seemed a little too emotional. For people new to the printer, using paper gets you "close enough" with the default .3mm first layer in Cura. As you get more experienced you slowly learn the more intricate details like the fact that you have to worry if your nozzle is hot or not, if there is a tiny bit of plastic on the bottom of the nozzle, if your heated bed is hot or not (if you have one) and you have to know to compensate for all of those things plus the thickness of the paper.

Daid already fixed this. I'm not sure if it's in the latest RC or not. It will be out in the next release. Occasionally when he fixes one bug he creates another. That has happened twice in the last few months that a I know about. Fortunately he fixes it quickly. (quickly compared to say releases of microsoft windows patches/fixes).

It seems to me there are 3 solutions to this problem right now: 1) Modify firmware to go up 5mm instead of 3mm. This is advanced and if you haven't compiled the firmware will probalby take you a few hours. 2) Always raise the bed a few mm before you start a print. And before you level it. 3) Bend the Z limit switch a tiny bit so that the bed hits it 1mm lower than normal. I don't have this problem as the distance between all the way down and limit switch opens is 2.7mm. I measured this by twisting the Z screw with power off and I get 17 "stepper clicks" which is 2.72mm = 17/(6.25 full steps/mm). So bend the z limit switch down until you have 17 or less clicks between all the way down and limit switch open. This gives you the full printing volume also.

There are 3 solutions right now: 1) Modify firmware to go up 5mm instead of 3mm. This is advanced and if you haven't compiled the firmware will probalby take you a few hours. 2) Always raise the bed a few mm before you start a print. And before you level it. 3) Bend the Z limit switch a tiny bit so that the bed hits it 1mm lower than normal. I don't have this problem as the distance between all the way down and limit switch opens is 2.7mm. I measured this by twisting the Z screw with power off and I get 17 "stepper clicks" which is 2.72mm = 17/(6.25 full steps/mm). So bend the z limit switch down until you have 17 or less clicks between all the way down and limit switch open. edit: Oops - bend it *down* not up - you want the Z switch to get hit in a lower bed position.

I think what dimensioneer is saying is that you can do "fix horrible A" and it will fill in the entire cube, then turn off infill (set to 0%) and set shell thickness to 0.4mm. This should get you what you want if the object is *very* simple (e.g. no holes).

Instead of changing the firmware you could just raise the Z switch a little bit - that way you will get more vertical build volume. Just bend that little lever so the bed hits the Z switch 1mm sooner.

My bed never droops when power is off. I have to push pretty hard to make it go down. Hard enough that I always push down at the rear. UM put an amazing amount of grease on my lead screw. The assembly instructions for the UM1 said to use about the amount of grease in 1 pea. My UM2 has enough grease for 20 peas I think. However when the UM2 finishes, the bed always goes to "down" position (actually probably right where the Z switch clicks). I measured the distance from all the way down (mechanically stopped) to raising where the Z switch opens. It's about 3.0mm +/- .2mm on my machine. So even if I *did* push the bed all the way down the firmware will bring the bed up 3mm before homing so no problem. I also measured this distance by rotating the Z screw and it was 16 servo steps one time and 17 steps the other 2 times. Not sure how many steps/mm the Z is. Firmware says 200 microsteps/mm but that would mean 1/32 stepping rate - if true then it's only 2.7mm and I will never see the problems you saw. I have had parts that need quite a bit of force to get them off the bed. I was removing them with the bed in the down position. I'm surprised I never moved the bed any further down. It never occurred to me to raise the bed 2mm before starting another print.

offset = f_04b036ptDescriptors[index][2]; That's not valid for accessing program memory. You have to use the pgm_read_word() function like this: offset = (uint16_t)pgm_read_word(&f_04b036ptDescriptors[index][2]); Or alternatively you should be able to do (but above syntax better and I may have the ptr math all wrong here): offset = (uint16_t)pgm_read_word(f_04b036ptDescriptors+index*3+2);

I can easily print 10 or 20 things without releveling. Even when the first layer is .1mm.

I'm glad none of the cotton got lost inside the nozzle! That would be bad as it would cause it's own clog.

The radius of the nozzle is .2mm (diameter=.4mm) so Cura moves the tool path towards the inside of the object (not inside of the curve) by .2mm. So when doing the outer wall of a hollow cylinder the path is .2mm inward and when printing the inner wall it moves .2mm outward. You can buy smaller nozzles (e.g. .25mm) for the UM Original but for the UM2 you would need a good mechanic to do it as soldering (filling existing hole) and precision delicate drilling is involved.