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1) 260C is too hot for PLA. At that temperature you can cook it into a gunk that will clog the nozzle. 240C is a safe maximum temperature. 2) I don't understand exactly problem #1 above. Maybe print slower? Try this test at 230C (IT MUST BE 230C OR THE TEST IS USELESS): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/ 3) Your first layer looks a little thin. I think maybe you need to raise the distance between nozzle and print bed by about .05mm. Also I recommend .3mm first layer to make it easier to get the first layer perfect and will help you get rid of lines you arrowed. 4) To get rid of those lines you could try 4 things: re-level (my #3 above), Increase *travel* speed to 200mm/sec. Uncheck "combing". Print only one part at a time (instead of 4). Try "brim" option instead of "skirt".

If the model is manifold (no holes in skin, no missing polygons, no polygons *inside* the model) and it has no unconnected polygons closer than .1mm apart and if all the normals are facing outward (STL files have polygons and each one has a normal to indicate which way is out and which way is in) then you don't want any of the "fix horrible" checkboxes checked. Usually "type a" doesn't harm a manifold model but sometimes it fills in things that are meant to be hollow.

I was going to say the same thing.

I see values on all components. Did you look here? (click "raw" to download the pdf): https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1091_Main_board_v2.1.1_%28x1%29/Main%20Board%20V2.1.1.pdf

These are called overhangs and are tricky to print although you should be able to do a lot better. I'm not sure why they look so bad. You need to print cooler though - fans must be 100% and test that both are working full speed. Also this is a small part so make sure "minimum layer time" is as least 5 if not 7 seconds. Also I would print this slow and cool (maybe 210C and 30mm/sec or maybe even slower). Also keep the heated bed somewhat cool - 60C would be good. Now the next thing - why not print it in the orientation shown in the first picture? I can't see too well what's underneath so maybe you chose the best orientation. Not sure. Overhangs will always look worse than vertical edges but you should be able to get to 45 degrees overhang without much loss of quality at all. I think that because the part is so small you aren't giving it time to cool enough.

I guess it's possible it's one of the 4 larger rods but very unlikely as they are much stronger. The 2 smaller diameter rods pop out of the sliding blocks and then you can just slide them out of the print head. For the long rods: The 4 belts go around aluminum pulleys. Each pulley has a single set-screw (aka grub screw) that holds the pulley to the rod. Loosen those with a 2mm hex wrench and everything slides apart. Keep track of the order of pieces. There is an assembly manual for the UM2 so you can sort of read it backwards? ultimaker2 assembly manual - click "raw" to download the pdf: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2%20assembly%20manual%20V1.1%20_english.pdf

If the surface isn't too complicated you can sand it but that turns the PLA white. I've never tried this next thing but people say you can reheat with a heat gun to get the color back. Better to not use support at all.

That.

Do all this properly and it's possible to get the part to stick so well you will damage the glass when you remove the print!

This is very common when the bed is too hot (70-75C). It's not exactly warping but the fact that the PLA is above the glass temp when the next layer above is being laid down and it pulls it inward on the corners as the filament is more like a rubber band has it is cooling but still liquid and coming out of the nozzle. The solution is to keep the solid layer below at or below glass temp (around 50-60C) and setting the bed to 60C is a good compromise. Raft is an old feature that isn't used much anymore. It helps greatly with lifting corners but "everyone" has slowly learned better ways to deal with it and now it's semi-obsolete. As far as getting large parts to stick better... Rounded corners help quite a bit. Square corners have all the lifting force on one tiny .4mm square of PLA at the corner. If you round the corner the force is spread out. But if you use brim you don't have to round the corners. Brim is important even if you have rounded corners. Use lots - maybe 20 passes if you can and make sure it is squished down nice and flat into the glass. The glass needs to be>40C to stick well so 60C is a good temp for this reason also. This is so the PLA flows nicely leaving as few air cracks as possible. Look at the brim as it is laid down and make sure there aren't gaps that allow air to get in and the corners to lift. Cleaning the glass first is good in case there are any oils from your skin or whatever on there. Soap and water works fine but a glass cleaner is better because it dries faster. (windex) Glue stick works great. To improve it you can add some water and spread it around a bit thinner. Alternatively take any old elmers or any brand "wood glue". Mix with water 5-10 parts water for 1 part glue. Shake it in a jar really good and lay it down with a paint brush on the glass. Wait until it evaporates (which is much faster with the glass at 60C). It will be almost invisible. The ratio of water and glue is not critical as you evaporate the water anyway. You can always later add water and spread it around again. This coating lasts for dozens of prints. FINALLY, if none of these glue techniques work, you can always *raise* the glass temp to 75C or so and keep the fan down to 40% or so (enough to get it to spin). This will give you worse quality prints that exhibit the warpage you speak of *but* it will keep the bottom layers above glass temp and it will not come off the glass as it can deform slightly and absorb the shrinkage forces. Or use a raft

HBK = Heated Bed Kit which is the new kit from UM (not yet for sale). That kit has a small circuit board and uses the PT100 temp sensor and uses a chip that creates a voltage that is sent to the arduino. The table of temperature values versus voltage is completely incompatible with typical kits out there (thermistors). Anyway, this is a GUI bug - the GUI should not give you the HBK version if you select the checkbox "home built". It should only give you the HBK version if you selected the other checkbox. I think it says "Ultimaker Heated Bed Kit" or something like that. I sent a message to Daid about this yesterday and no reply yet. He's busy doing something else I guess. To him it probably seems minor (one line of code) but to unsuspecting people with home built beds it's quite annoying.

You can get *some* stickiness without any glue but you will do better with something on the glass. Here is much more info about what works and what doesn't and what the minimum temperature should be for the heated bed (40 to 50C): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3404-printing-on-glass/

First and foremost - never print anything without looking at it in slice view first. This would have shown what it was going to print. Now to fix the problem. I don't understand what the problem is in you specific case but sketchup lets you put walls anywhere so you can get internal walls inside a solid (which confuses cura) and you can get holes in your objects (also confuses cura). Other cad programs like solidworks or DSM - or openSCAD - well this is impossible. They model solids - not faces. So it's impossible to get this. Anyway Cura has an XRAY mode in the gui. Click that icon and if you see any red there is a problem in your model. Also there are features in advanced called "fix horrible". If your model has no red in xray mode try unchecking all 4 of these. Otherwise you can sometimes fix the print by fooling with these checkboxes (instead of fixing it in sketchup).

Which component? R1? U1? C1? IC1? Some other component?

That would be X axis. Mark the shafts and the pulleys with a pen to see if they are slipping. Actually you only have to mark the 2 pulleys on the short belt - the one with the stepper motor and the one above the stepper. Is it a sudden shift or gradual shift over many layers? Sudden shifts tend to be loose setscrews and gradual shifts tend to be rubbing belt but it could be the reverse on very rare occasions. Especially note if the X short belt (in the back rear) is rubbing on wood (if UM1, rear panel if UM2). It might not look like it is rubbing but you can tell because the belt twists different directions when it switches directions instead of always being square and vertical like the Y short belt. If it *is* a UM Original and if it *is* doing "the twist" thing then it's easily fixed by adding one washer under each of the 4 black plastic spacers. Also make sure the pulley is as close as possible to the stepper without touching the stepper (true for UM1 and UM2). About 0.5mm gap is good.

I'd like to see something similar. Cura has a "minimum layer time" setting that I typically set to 5 seconds. It should instead never print over a spot that was printed less than 5 seconds ago. This would *also* eliminate Conz's "ping-pong". If you print something with 4 islands - like you are printing the 4 legs of a chair - it would never print 2 layers in a row (to save time) but instead it would go back to the coldest island. I understand that the current algorithm saves time but it also causes problems when printing on a layer that is still hot.

As both of the above posters noted - the thing it fixes the most is ringing - look at the pictures in this topic to understand: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2532-prevent-ringing-wobbly-surface-after-sharp-corners/?p=18006 It also makes the printer quieter if you lower acceleration and less shaking the table and also makes it print slower - especially if there are lots of sharp turns that the head has to make such as text. But on a real printer decreasing acceleration doesn't slow prints down too much. Cutting acceleration in half in theory could slow down print time by 30% (square root of .5 is .707) but in practice it might only be 5% if you have many long straight lines such as infill. Cura assumes I believe 3000mm/sec/sec acceleration (or maybe 5k?) so if you go slower Cura will not correctly guess your print times.

Mine had a hole large enough to put my arm into up to my shoulder. Fortunately the printer was fine and nothing was missing. Even without visible damage if they compress it a bit by squeezing two opposite corners of the box they can still damage the printer without damaging the box. DHL and FedEx are good at squeezing the box into curved airplane holds in such a way that the printer is damaged without any noticable damage to the box. Exactly. That's why it's most likely the shipper.

I don't think there is anything wrong with the firmware. You have a problem with the X axis and when both axes move at the same time there is also a problem which leads me to believe that when the X axis makes the noise, the Y axis is not getting enough voltage. The problem could be with your power supply - maybe it can't power the steppers and the heated bed at the same time? I would check the 19V and make sure it is steady when moving the X axis. Also check the friction when power is off on both X and Y axes. The problem may also be in the stepper drivers. There are 4 removable drivers on the PCB underneath the UM. Check that they aren't too hot - the fan is critical when these are in use (when power is applied to steppers even if steppers not moving). I would swap the X and Z axis driver to see if the problem moves to the Z movements or if the problem stays on the X axis. You can purchase these drivers and they don't cost very much at all. Google "pololu" and "ultimaker" to see which ones are the best. Then also google "pololu" alone to see where to buy them. They are sold by color. For example all black pololu are the same specifications. But I think you might want the green ones (I forget).

That's the list of all the changes in Cura - you have to read each one going back to your current version or the previous version. There's lots of changes! Here I found the release note popup code for Cura 14.06. It's in newVersionDialog.py in the /cura/gui/ folder: s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, 'Welcome to the new version of Cura.')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '(This dialog is only shown once)')) s.Add(wx.StaticLine(p), flag=wx.EXPAND|wx.TOP|wx.BOTTOM, border=10) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, 'New in this version:')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* Updated drivers for Windows 8.1.')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* Added better raft support with surface layers and an air-gap. Special thanks to Gregoire Passault.')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* Improved outer surface quality on high detail prints.')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* Fixed bug with multiple machines and different start/end GCode.')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* Added initial support for BitsFromBytes machines.')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* Improved the Pronterface UI with buttons to set temperature and extrusion buttons.')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* Improved bridging detection.')) [...] if self.hasUltimaker is not None and False: s.Add(wx.StaticLine(p), flag=wx.EXPAND|wx.TOP|wx.BOTTOM, border=10) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, 'New firmware for your Ultimaker Original:')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* .')) button = wx.Button(p, -1, 'Install now') self.Bind(wx.EVT_BUTTON, self.OnUltimakerFirmware, button) s.Add(button, flag=wx.TOP, border=5) if self.hasUltimaker2 is not None: s.Add(wx.StaticLine(p), flag=wx.EXPAND|wx.TOP|wx.BOTTOM, border=10) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, 'New firmware for your Ultimaker2: (14.06.1)')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* Fixed a problem with the bed leveling. (Special thanks to stevegt for figuring this out)')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* Improved the start of the print, first moves the bed up before moving to the print.')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* Improved the start of the print, initial filament push is slower so it does not slip.')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* Made sure the head does not bump into the front of the casing at first startup.')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* Fixed support for the PauseAtZ plugin.')) s.Add(wx.StaticText(p, -1, '* Added lifetime runtime stats. Allows you to see how long the printer has been running.')) button = wx.Button(p, -1, 'Install now')

I'm pretty sure that's a configuration for the new UM Original heated bed upgrade kit. It's not for sale but to make it easier for beta testers and for UM employees to test it, it is included with the latest Cura. But you can still choose that and then *not* upgrade your firmware and then Cura will prompt you for heated bed temp. But I always set nozzle/bed temp to 0 so that I can set it on the printer. Anyway, I'll double check with Daid.

https://github.com/daid/Cura/commits/SteamEngine

That's for the new Ultimaker heated bed upgrade - not yet for sale. robotfuzz. After installing the hex file from robotfuzz did it show proper temperature of heated bed? Around 20C? I don't understand. You could post a video. Try skipping the Cura wizard and try leveling yourself by goint to z=0 and disabling servos and then push the head around by hand and check with thin paper. Then try printing something. If you still have trouble with servos or end stops please post a short (10 second?) video somewhere.

It looks underextruded. The bottom layer looks fine but it prints slower on the bottom layer. Try raising the temp for black PLA to 230C. 240C is a good safe speed but don't go over 240C unless you are printing very fast - in other words wait until you are more experienced. Even better, just never go over 240C with PLA. I don't know about the other PLAs without more pictures. Please don't post on "postimg.org" because I don't think they will still be hosting that picture 10 years from not. Or even a month from now. How to post pictures: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4525-how-to-upload-an-image-to-the-forum/

Cut the tip of the PLA to a point and try feeding it again.