gr5

Could you photograph the part or what the model looks like in Cura? I'm thinking the Z screw is fine but there are other reasons to have the print head grind against the part.

I recommend you get rid of the delrin part: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1676-modification-of-upgraded-extruder-drive/?hl=%2Breplace+%2Bdelrin http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5462-extruder-drive-upgrade-bearing/&do=findComment&comment=48496

Please photograph the problem with the filament being too large if it's not too late. Also I agree that this sounds like your 3rd fan (the rear fan) is not working. Or maybe the bowden is slipping too much or maybe both. The 3rd fan should come on when you turn on the printer - even before the lights come on. Make sure it is turning the correct direction - blowing air towards the front of the machine.

So what's the problem? Maybe post a picture of what you are having trouble with.

To dial this in, consider printing *only* the top of the rook. On advanced tab under "quality" you can sink the rook down into the build plate until only the top few mm will print.

1) You really need the area around the hole perfectly flat or you will get very ugly prints. 2) The stringing near the crenelations of the rook is caused by not enough retraction (not too much). When it is printing that tops of the rooks look at the filament in the tube. It needs to be at the top of the tube (at the top of the arc of the bowden) when printing and at the bottom when "retracted". You can change the retraction distance on the fly. Pull up and down on the bowden tube at the print head when not printing. If it doesn't move at all then 4.5mm should be perfect retraction distance. For every mm it moves up and down add 1mm to the retraction distance. So for example when my printer was new I had retraction at 5.5mm and that was about right but now the tube is tight and doesn't move and I have retraction at 4.5mm which works perfectly now.

0,02 est très mince. Essayez 0,06 ou 0,10. La résolution est d'environ 0,2 XY mm car le diamètre de la buse est 0,4 mm de sorte que le rayon de courbure est 0,2 mm et vous ne pouvez pas faire des choses pointues plus forte que 0,2 mm rayon de courbure. Il semble donc ridicule pour moi d'aller résolution plus fine 10X sur l'axe Z que sur l'axe XY. Je sais que certaines personnes veulent faire les lignes disparaissent. Cela peut se faire en utilisant d'autres techniques. La vapeur d'acétone pour ABS et autres produits chimiques pour le PLA (THF ou l'acétate d'éthyle).

10 million polys on a print the size of a human (6 feet tall) is probably detail finer than .1mm (smaller than the XY resolution of the nozzle). I have found that zbrush models reduced to a mere 100k polys still looks very good. I'm not sure how smart zbrush is about reducing polygons. I recommend this method which is very sophisticated in which polygons it removes, and which it keeps (meshlab is free): http://www.shapeways.com/blog/archives/226-polygon-count-reduction-with-meshlab.html I don't know if even meshlab can open a 1G stl but it probably will. It might take 20 minutes though so watch some youtube or something while waiting. Be patient. Once it's loaded don't try to rotate it, just go straight to the poly reduction step.

To test fans without printing anything, go to the PRINT menu, select that and select any print. Then quickly select TUNE menu and it will not print until you exit print menu (you can hit power switch when done). Then go to the fan control in TUNE menu and set to 100%. They should come on full speed. When done you can either exit PRINT menu and quickly abort print (but it will probably print a little) or you can just kill the power.

See post #1415 here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/467-post-your-latest-print/?p=41757

:-P Sounds delicious. All prints have layers if you zoom in enough. It's hard for me to imagine scale even though I assume these are glasses. Also the pictures are a bit blurry. Maybe you should use a cell phone to take pictures? They tend to do macro photography very well. I'm still not quite sure what is going on. If the top left picture is the same area as bottom right, and if top left is .06mm layers and bottom left is .1mm layers then there should be at least 1 or 2 "cake" layers on the bottom left picture. So it's confusing. Maybe the bottom left picture is of the bottom of the print? I'm not sure. Is the bottom of your print designed to print flat on glass? I recommend experimenting with levelling. If the bottom left picture is the bottom of the print you should be able to improve that side and get it more smooth by printing with the nozzle slightly higher from the glass (maybe .02mm if bottom layer is .1, maybe .1mm if bottom layer is .3mm?). What is the thickness of your bottom layer? Cura defaults to .3mm. Also you can get a smooth bottom layer by cleaning the glass well, and putting on a very small amount of glue stick and spreading the glue carefully with a wet finger or wet tissue. The Brim feature in Cura will also help hold this print down. Again, the bump in the top left picture is a bit of a mess - I assume that was the highest thing printed. I recommend adding two small towers that are a few mm taller than the glasses. Place one tower left of the glasses, one to the right so that the bump has time to cool. Or you can try "cool head lift" which isn't as good a solution. The towers should be about 1cm wide and can be square or round. Please try again and answer some of my questions and try to take more pictures. Also read about how you can smooth your finished prints. If you print with ABS you can use acetone vapor smoothing. PLA requires a different chemical.

The lead time for UM2's was about 10 weeks last winter. That meant you could order it before Christmas and not get it until the spring rains come. The lead time has improved quite a bit!

Where do you see the break? Inside the bowden? Some people rewound their filament onto a tighter reel, or simply dried the filament too much by putting it in a box with desiccant for a week. And then later the filament shattered into hundreds of short pieces. Could it be your filament was too dry? Or too old? I'm guessing you have "bad" filament and should order some more.

I've never had this problem but I would remove the bowden from the test head and push it out through the feeder. Be careful. On the print head there is a little clip - remove that clip. That clip holds up the "bowden holder". The bowden holder has 4 metal blades that dig into the bowden. Loosen the 4 thumb screws on the head so that the head is loose - maybe 2mm or enough so that the bowden is loose. Then push down on the bowden holder and pull up on the bowden. Be careful as the metal blades can scrape the bowden and it might not hold well next time. If you do damage the tube just cut off the bottom 1mm of the bowden and put it back in. Tighten the 4 screws last so the bowden is good and tight.

Also if you still are experiencing problems with the rook piece after the above test, please remember to post layer height, print speed and printing temperature.

Londinium you appear to have possibly two issues. Your nozzle tip appears to have a crater in it. It should be more flat. You might want to try grinding it down a little. This crater may harm the quality of your prints. Or it might not. I don't see any evidence that it is causing problems with that blue rook piece. The badness in the blue rook piece is underextrusion which can have many causes. I would agree with the others and try the atomic bob cleaning method but then I would print this test piece at 230C to quantify any issues. Also put the filament on the floor instead of the back of the machine - that may seem silly but the angle it enters the feeder (around 45 degrees) is a problem - putting it on the floor makes the filament enter more vertically. Anyway try this test: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/

Je m'excuse de Google Translate. Je serai très prudent avec mon orthographe anglais et gramar si la traduction est aussi parfait que possible. J'ai remarqué que la distance indiquée en rouge, c'est trop. Ce devrait être d'environ 1 mm. Jamais plus de 2 mm. Ce n'est pas clair pour moi si vous avez imprimé à filament blanc ou si la substance blanche fondu est l'isolateur en téflon (flèche bleue). Si l'isolateur fondu, vous pouvez en obtenir un nouveau de Ultimaker: support.ultimaker.com Le sectionneur ne va pas fondre jusqu'à environ 300C si l'isolateur fondu puis quelque chose est aussi mal avec le capteur de température et vous devriez obtenir une nouvelle l'un de ceux aussi. Mais je vais maintenant suppose que l'isolateur est très bien. Vous devez continuer à prendre part. Première tout la chaleur jusqu'à 180 ° C. Ensuite, insérez un petit outil à travers le trou (flèche verte). C'est l'écrou de l'isolateur (flèche verte). Tourner ce pour obtenir la buse hors tension. Ensuite, utilisez une clé hexagonale de 1,5 mm pour retirer la vis mince. La vis mince maintient la sonde de température et le dispositif de chauffage. Une fois la vis enlevée, coupez l'alimentation et retirer la sonde de température et de chauffage. Retirez tous les PLA ou ABS filament de l'appareil de chauffage. ABS peut être trempé dans de l'acétone pendant quelques heures. Soit peut être brûlé dans une flamme de gaz. Chauffer suffisamment pour tourner le filament en cendres. Mais pas si chaud pour faire fondre le laiton.

Usually I am able to continue failed prints. If it took more than a few hours before it failed I usually spend the time to figure out where it failed, edit the gcode and print the modified (the remainder). However it's important to keep the build plate at a constant temperature all this time. Even if you go to bed and do it the next day - keep that build plate hot otherwise the part pops off. However in your case it sounds like something more drastic happened. Did you fix the loose top part of the belt? Easiest way is to loosen the pulley set screws and allow tension to correct it. I've never had a belt skip a gear like this. Don't know what would cause it.

What is it that is bothering you? Are the bottom 2 images of the bottom layer? If so you might want to check your leveling a little. You want the bottom layer to squish a little into the glass but not too much such that the plastic can't get out. Getting leveling accurate to 1/4 of the first layer is critical. So if first layer is .3mm (default) then you need accuracy around .05mm (1/2 of piece of paper). If first layer is .06 then you need accuracy of about .015mm (1/6 of piece of paper). In top left picture there is a bump. If that is a problem you can try the "cool head lift" option or you can print 2 models at the same time so that one model has time to cool down while the other is printing.

I've done experiments with this sort of thing here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3404-printing-on-glass/ There should be no stickiness difference between 50C and 75C. I think your lack of sticking had more to do with glue, oils (clean the glass occasionally) and leveling such that the first layer is squished nicely into the glass.

Your example shows bridging. Cura is starting a "bridge" right at a un-rectract. This is not common so it seems like a bug/feature that hasn't been thought about much in the past. Cura doesn't always properly detect bridging. When it does, the behavior is a little different. I'm not sure if Cura failed to detect bridging here or if it *did* detect it but allows a un-retract. Daid will have to comment. An obvious fix would be to add some infill. Also if you do thinner layers it might help on this particular design. Also doing a thicker shell (.8mm is two shell passes. Better than .4mm - one pass).

Sander speaks truth. If the filament reaches 3.01mm it will probably get stuck in the clear bowden tube. Difficult to get out. There's lots of techniques to get PLA to stick to glass. Thin layer of glue stick and bed temperatures above 40C is usually good enough. With large prints you also want brim. It also helps to have the first layer pressed firmly into the glass (leveling is important) and you might want to print a bit hotter and slower for the first layer (240C). Cura normally prints slower for the first layer. But for parts < 80mm glue and 60C is usually enough.

70mm/sec at 230C and .2mm layer height is 70X.2X.4= 5.6mm^3/sec. This is a very high volume of filament to print. I think you are starting to see some issues in your head that is causing some extra resistance in the head but still I consider 8^3mm/sec around the limit of what a typical UM2 can do. Some UM2's can get a little faster maybe up to 12mm^3/sec so you are at about half the max throughput of PLA at 230C. So what can you do? 1) Put the filament on the floor. With the filament on the side it chews up the black ABS plastic feeder and ABS ends up in the nozzle causing the inside of the nozzle to get black ABS gunk on it slowing down printing a small amount. UM is working on a fix for this problem of ABS dust. 2) Get a new nozzle or take your nozzle off and cook out all the gunk in there and soak it in acetone for an hour. 3) Ask for a new white teflon isolator. These get deformed after many hundreds of hours of printing and may be causing a kg or two of resistance (the feeder can push about 5kg total). 4) Increase the current to the feeder a little bit. 5) Raise the printing temp to 240C - this allows the plastic to flow with less viscosity. Or go .1mm layers. Or go 40mm/sec. About the temp error - if you get through to UM tech support they will probably tell you the same thing - remove the bottom cover and check the wire. Takes about 1 minute. Or you can pack it all up ship it back to UM and get a new printer. DHL shipping is VERY violent with these printers. Cables get loose. Screws get loose, printers get deformed into new shapes. It should not be called "3d printing" as "printing" implies it is as easy as 2d printing. You should think of this as something as complicated as a sewing machine, a lathe, or a milling machine. It takes much learning and hands on work to get it to work for your specific needs. I think if you had gone with any other 3d printer out there you would be even more upset because as far as I can tell they all have the same issues but worse.

If you can get 8mm^3/sec then I consider that to be a properly functioning UM2. If you fail at 3mm^3/sec or lower then that's a problem.

Temp sensor error occurs if there is something wrong with the wiring to the temp sensor. First, take the larger cover off the bottom (two screws - very easy to do) and look at the "temp1" connector (appears to be brown/red in the below picture). Make sure it isn't loose. You might need a complete new temp sensor cable. As far as grinding/slipping - this is more complicated and might be normal. What material, temp, speed (70mm/sec) and layer height are you printing at? For example if the answer is PLA, 200, 70,.2 then that would explain the problem as you can't print PLA that cold and fast. But there might be some defect - please answer the above question first.