gr5

Yes. Very easy to fix. Remove glass. Remove the 3 support screws and springs. Remove the 2 screws holding the cable down in the back. Check the 4 wires and the 4 screws and likely you have to re-melt the solder. Very easy to fix. The two thin wires are the problem (the sensor wires).

1) Be aware that you can continue a failed print even after many hours. Just don't let the heated bed cool or the part will pop off: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4213-ideas-for-recovering-failed-prints/?p=34788 2) With normal curling, when you do "move material" the first bit of material curls and touches the nozzle. This is normal. With severe curling, you pull that material (maybe 50mm worth) and force it to hang down, but when you extrude a little more it curls again! In other words 50mm of .4mm diameter hanging filament should be enough weight to prevent curling. If not you should clean your nozzle tip. The easiest way to clean the nozzle tip is with a steel needle. I recommend purchasing either hypodermic needles (check the diameter before ordering) or acupuncture needles. You scrape the inside of the nozzle tip around in a few circles while the filament is at 180C or hotter. The hard way is it to take it apart and put it in a glass flame and burn away all the PLA and ABS (powder from the black feeder that ends up in your print head) and dust. Then soak in acetone for an hour. Don't heat it so much that the nozzle melts. Please add your country to your profile location in case someone is in your country and has a supplier suggestion (france?)

continuing resuming rescuing failed print First you need to use pronterface to find the exact layer to continue on. Pronterface is here: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ read all gr5 posts here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4213-ideas-for-recovering-failed-prints/?p=34788 post #9 here has specific code change example: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5269-um%C2%B2-printing-more-than-24-hours-non-stop/?p=46704

Welcome. I hope this isn't just to up your google search rating. I see you made a bunch of robots already! Feel free to post issues as you are bound to run into something (parts won't stick to bed, part's stick too well to bad, parts warp, parts have holes or bumps, etc.). When you do have a problem please post pictures here (not on some website that won't hang onto them for years) by clicking GALLERY on the top left of this page, then UPLOAD button. Then make a new post and click "my media" next to smile icon.

The test is meant to be done at 230C so it's hard to say but clearly you have a bad printer. How far do you get at 230C? When you had the white teflon isolator out, did you try pushing some PLA filament through it? I found that to be very enlightening. I'm particularly curious if you pushed through that filament with the big chewed up bump on it. I think something is wrong with your feeder that it makes those chewed up bumps. Remind me again your tension? I have mine set to the minimum although around March 1 2014 they started shipping UM2s with a weaker spring and the tension set at the half way point. I have done a print which averaged 8 retractions on every point of the filament. It was the Eiffel tower. In other words for every point on the filament it went back and forth through the feeder 8 times. On average -- therefore some pieces more than 8. I don't get those chewed up bumps. I have used ultimaker red with no trouble (along with many other PLA filaments with no trouble). Note that I always print now with the filament on the floor to avoid that sharp angle of the PLA going into the feeder. Also I think a test at say 80% flow would be more interesting than 95% flow. But I still think something is wrong. Also I wish you took the nozzle out and burned it clean while you had it all apart.

Post a picture of layer view for this "other" part that has no support. Usually it's obvious why no support.

I mean think about it - probably all these nozzle were drilled with the same drill bit in some factory somewhere. You can't drill a hole smaller than the drill bit.

Nico and I did several sewing-needle-in-nozzle hole tests. But keep in mind that many of these printers that are having trouble were working fine for the first week or month. Here is an interesting way to measure the hole - post #443 is nico result: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3976-almost-always-missing-layers-underextruding/?p=37333 Post #490 was my result: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3976-almost-always-missing-layers-underextruding/?p=37894 Much more likely it is the white teflon isolator which deforms slowly over weeks under high heat or just general gunk in the nozzle. I print mainly only up to 230C (although occasionally 240C) so maybe that is why mine lasted longer?

That's too bad as it is incredibly easy to fix and you don't have to wait 3 days.

Oh and if the white teflon part seems deformed and causing excess friction (it should be zero friction with straight PLA maybe 1/3 kg with curved-last-20%-of-roll filament) then consider drilling it out with a 3mm drill bit. Also requesting a new teflon part and a new nozzle from Ultimaker will cost you... nothing. I believe they don't have the software to bill you so they just give it away.

It's time to take the head apart. It's not hard. The first time will take you 30 minutes. The second time 10 minutes. Follow Nico's instructions above. To test the white teflon piece try putting the worst curved black PLA filament through it. The feeder should be able to push about 5kg (around 10 pounds) force so that is your budget. Some of that budget is used to pull in the feeder. Some budget is wasted in the bowden friction. Some in the white teflon part. Most is used up in the nozzle. 1kg force in the teflon part is - somewhat acceptable but not great. Keep going and take the thin screw with the tiny hex head out which holds in the temp probe and heater. Slide those out and completely take the nozzle off. Burn that sucker to ash (but don't melt it!). I like to put mine in a gas flame for 10 seconds and then remove for 10 seconds and repeat until nothing but ash left. Then holding it with pliers to the 180C to 90C push pull testing and make sure you don't have to push with more than 1kg force to get PLA through. Then clean one more time and soak in acetone to remove any ABS. Alternatively test your feeder but I don't think it's the problem. Here is a nice feeder test: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4222-pulling-force-of-um-extruder/?p=34887

Wait - so marlin works - but your x and y axes dont' work? Using pronterface (or replicatorg) command the servos *off*. Then push the head to the middle. Then put the X axis in *relative* move mode and move 10mm to the right: G1 X10 Does it move right or left? It should move right. You might also (or instead) have the limit switches backwards? Those are easy to swap - just swap the connectors. ginge builder works quite well. You can use Cura "expert" menu to load the firmware. You probably already know this. More gcodes are here: great reference: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code scroll way down to the gcodes on this page: https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/ Posting a video of your issue might help us also.

I don't know but you should play with it a little. You can see the changes easily in the gcode - just open in a text editor (like notepad) and use the editors search feature to search for "50" or "230". Or maybe set the temperature to 231 if there are lots of "230" already in there and speed to "51" if there are lots of "50" already.

By the way .1mm is fine. We just thought maybe you were at .02mm or something where pillowing gets worse.

I can't see your drop box photo. Did you delete it already? Could you upload it and edit your post? To put a picture on ultimaker forum (so that it is still visible years later) click "gallery" link in top left of this web page, then click blue "upload" button. After uploading edit your old post and click "my media" next to the smile, then "gallery images". Did you verify that your side fan/fans were spinning? Sometimes the wire is loose. Here is more about pillowing including a sample picture and solutions (post #10): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/?p=17300

In cura always look at your model in layer view before printing so you can see problems like this. You need to play around with Cura settings until it looks correct (fills in the A). Also look in xray view from different angles - if you see any red walls in the A then that is your problem and it might be fixable with the "fix horrible A" setting. In cura make sure solid infill top is checked (expert) and nozzle size is .4. Then try shells of .4, .8, 1.2 or even 100mm (that will do 100% infill but in a shell pattern instead of diagonal). Also consider 0% infill or 100% infill. Basically, play around with cura settings before you try to print it and let us know what fixed your particular issue for the next person. Is it possible you are using a year old version of cura (which had more problems with thin walls)?

Probably baud rate. What baud rate did you choose in ginge builder? 250000? Make sure replicatorg knows the correct baud rate and com port. Also I recommend using pronterface instead. It's free and works well with Marlin: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/

Oh - the skip back! Yes! This is a very common problem. Is it printing right up to the moment before it skips back? Or is it not printing for many minutes? 1) Stops briefly. If it stops printing only briefly (right after skip back) then this is a very common problem but has many possible causes. You might need to replace or remove and drill out your white isolate located just above the nozzle. Putting your filament on the floor would help quite a bit. 2) Never prints. If nothing is coming out of the nozzle just before the skip back then you probably have a clogged nozzle. The "atomic" method is the easiest method to clean: First heat nozzle to 150C (hotter is okay) then set temp to 90C. Once the temperature reaches 90-95C pull hard on the filament near the feeder and pull it all the way out. Cut off the end and throw away. Cut the end to a point and insert the filament back in, reheat to 180C and push on the filament. If it is still clogged repeat the process and also maybe also insert a needle into the nozzle tip (hypodermic or acupuncture). If it doesn't remove gunk from the tip, try slightly cooler or warmer temperatures when you pull (like 88C or 92C). If you explain your problem is #1 then we have more advice as #1 is common and has several solutions.

You need to enable retraction. If retraction is on those blue lines will have a vertical line at the start to indicate it is a retracting move instead of just a non-extruding move. Also in addition slowing down the print speed (to reduce pressure in the nozzle) and/or lower the temperature often helps. Also for that bottom layer if you *disable* combing it will typically force it to retract for that non-extruding move also and reduce that "scar". That may have changed in a recent version of Cura though.

Also known as J16 and J17. Those are for future use - possibly some kind of smoke detector or heat sensor could trigger those and that cuts off 24V but leaves power to the arduino. So it cuts power to the bed, the side fans, the nozzle, and the servos. But leaves power to everything (?I think) else including lights, rear fan, controller and arduino.

Having the fan off for the first 3 or 5 layers is usually not a problem. So I find that having the fan come on at 30 to 35% is okay.

TWO possible problems were explained above. Not one. 1) Homing switch 2) Loose bed screws. Please re-read posts above.

1) Request 3 screws from support.ultimaker.com - get your ticket in soon. 2) They are M3 threads. I don't know about the screw heads but the thread and length are easily found in a typical Ace or True Value (but not home depot). 3) Also order them from mcmaster. They have everything. And it's quite cheap to order just 3 screws from them. http://www.mcmaster.com/

Did you try adding a drop of oil? Did you try printing slower (maybe 10mm/sec)? Did you increase nozzle temp?

Installing the filament yourself will help you notice problems like a jam in the bowden or a loose sleeve or a clogged nozzle.