gr5

Are you in Russia? Please post what country you live in as part of your profile location. I recommend you contact support also and they will likely give you a free bed replacement. All PT100 parts are interchangeable electrically but not necessarily mechanically as they come in all kinds of shapes and sizes. PT means Platinum. 100 means 100 ohms at 25C. At 20C one would expect about 108 ohms. Here is a table that translates temperature to expected resistance: http://www.intech.co.nz/products/temperature/typert.html You may have also damaged the solder joint where the connector is soldered to the heated bed. You might want to reheat those connections with a solder iron.

1) Your picture doesn't seem to work. To post a picture please post here. Click "gallery" on the top left of this page, then click blue "upload" button. Then edit your post and click on "my media" next to smile icon to insert your picture. 2) I think you are talking about "pillowing". This is much worse if the fans aren't working - please double check that your side 2 fans work. Also increasing "top/bottom layer thickness" will help. Here is a photo and explanation(post#10): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/?p=17300 3) I'm not sure about the stringing unless you include a photo. Make sure "retraction" is checked and look at the part in layer view and make sure it shows a vertical blue line to indicate retraction before any move causing "strings".

They know that. So it will either not delay it at all or it might delay it just a small amount. Usually if it's going to delay a shipment for more than a week or two they ship separately.

I have never gotten a perfect bottom first layer. When you hold something such that the light reflects perfectly off the bottom your eyes can see imperfections that your fingers can't feel. You can't see these imperfections at any other angle. But if I were to experiment I'd want the bottom layer to not-freeze very quickly. I'd try 20mm/sec, 240C, heated bed at 70C. This will make it so that the PLA is more liquid as it is being placed down and flows better. But it's going to be hard to get every last bit of air out. I have some parts with perfect bottom *sections* but I'm not sure how I did it and why other sections are worse. Regarding setting shell thickness to say 10mm, this will work but the downside is you get 100% infill for every layer so for a small gear that might be okay but for some parts this will 10X the print time. Hopefully, some day, Cura will let you do per-layer settings. I know this is a very confusing feature to implement in the GUI (other slicers do it) but sometimes it's needed.

You didn't show that the layer view was correct. So I'll have to trust you. But I don't trust you. It's very common for models to have internal walls and for Cura to not know what to do and for it to slice just like this. But I'll assume you are correct... So... The most likely cause for this - the thing that explains everything is Z movement issues. There is probably something keeping your Z table from moving for a few layers. This explains everything in the photo - it explains the ugly layers where you have overextrusion and filament kind of melting out all over the place (probably worse *inside* the model) and it explains why the upper dome kind of "sunk in" to the lower part of the semi-sphere. Unfortunately there are many Z related things that can go wrong - you could have something on your machine that is touching the Z platform such that the bed gets stuck during some moves. Or you could need grease or you might have a heated bed cable that is pushing on the bed or you might have a loose Z nut that shifted/rotated such that both the z screw and nut rotated which means the bed wouldn't go down at all. I would *not* grease or try to fix the issue without trying to find a way to detect it first. I would try turning the Z axes by hand to see if there is a spot where something strange happens (the table stops moving for a moment) around the same height of the nozzle above the bed. Once you can duplicate the problem you can repeat this dozens of times looking around trying to see what is keeping the bed from moving. I think the most likely thing is the Z nut is too loose.

Also you might want to try an alternate feeder. I think Robert's seems pretty good: UM2 FEEDER DESIGNS Ian's design is secret for now. Geek's design for UM2 feeder: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/extruder-um2-version-2 Robert's design is here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/?p=45758 Post #402. Read Robert's post #409 below that one for more details on assembly and such. Ultimaker's design is in these two posts Post #279: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/?p=42330 post #268 http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/?p=42162 I think this second post is more useful. Anyway, contact Bas for a free metal grommet. Takei Naodar's design won't fit on the back of the UM2 so you need to also print his very clever spool holder: https://www.youmagine.com/users/takei-naodar

Next likely suspect for your problem: Feeder. It's important to feed the filament straight into the feeder so a very easy thing to do is put the spool of filament on the floor behind the feeder. This can help quite a bit:

The sooner you answer Illuminarti's question, the sooner you can get a new one shipped to you for free. However if you want to do it the hard way... Personally I would start by putting printer on it's side, remove larger cover (just 2 screws) and disconnect the temp connector underneath the UM - check that connector for loose wiring. Then measure the resistance there. The resistance should be roughly 100 ohms. A PT100 is 100 ohms at 25C but most homes are closer to 20C which is around 108 ohms. It's possible the temp sensor and cabling is fine but something is wrong on the PCB. If the resistance is too high (more than say 150 ohms) then a wire is broken somewhere in that assembly. I would then probably order a new one at support.ultimaker.com but answering Illuminarti's question *might* get you the part much faster. Like in one day instead of 2 weeks possibly. Do not ignore the great and powerful Illuminarti! If you want the wire for snake purposes you can swap it out with some string. All PT100 temp sensors have identical thermal/resistive characteristics and they come in many sizes and shapes. You *might* be able to find one at digikey.com but you can probably get one more easily and free by answering Illuminarti's question.

UM is amazingly nice and might send you a free fan even though it was your fault. People have posted part numbers for replacement side fans but it matters what country you want it delivered to. What country are you in?

The heated bed in the thread above is excellent and has most of the bugs worked out. To post a topic go here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/forum/41-questions-answers-help-each-other/ And click blue button "start new topic".

If the first layer height is .1mm it will be very hard to get the leveling perfect. To get as good as you want you need levelling height accuracy about 10X better than layer height. So .1mm layer needs .01mm accuracy of levelling. The best way to do this is trial and error where you lay down a few brim lines (or skirt lines) and make sure they are squished to a .1mm by .4mm stripe (4 times wider than tall) and that 2 consecutive strips are perfectly touching. I much prefer a .3mm first layer so then I only need levelling accuracy to .03mm. Much easier. Changing flow to 115% was the right track but you get the same effect by lowering the bed by 15% of the first layer height (you have 15% less space to put the plastic between the nozzle and the glass.

Oh - and it helps quite a bit to have the fan running at 100% but the default is to not have the fan at 100% until 5mm up the part so I usually have the fan at 100% by 1mm or 2mm height.

If you print 4 pieces the 2 in the middle will come out better so instead you could print towers on the ends (just cylinders) that are at least .2mm taller than your part. Cool head lift works somewhat - it's not as good as printing multiple parts but sometimes you don't want to print multiple parts. For example printing large things with a tiny top. Cool head lift is under expert/cool section I believe.

Also speeding up travel moves (Non extruding moves) to 300mm/sec might help.

That's called stringing. It's hard to answer your question without knowing more about your model. There are 2 types of vase or cup models: 1) Solid models where the model tells the slicer to fill the entire vase in with solid plastic - this is the easier to work with model as you can just check spiralize, set the wall width to around .6mm (if you go too think the nozzle can't handle it in spiralize mode because it does it all in one pass). One bonus of spiralize is that there will be no z-seam. Another is that there will be no stringing like this. Another option is to turn off combing. Combing allows non-retracting moves *inside* the part which is bad for you as the inside of this type of vase is visible. 2) Complete models that model both the outer wall *and* the inner wall. These complete models define the thickness of the wall (not Cura). These complete models will print horribly if you turn on spiralize. So if you have this type #2 of a model don't use spiralize. Instead you need to turn on retraction and make sure it is working by looking at your part in cura layer view. All blue lines are non-extruding lines but only the blue lines with a short vertical line at either end are movements that used retraction. Retraction is important to reduce the pressure at the print head to keep plastic from leaking out when you don't intend to extrude.

The latest firmware may help you as Robert suggests.

I dont' know what it is supposed to look like so I'm not sure what is wrong. Do you mean the round ridge approx 1/4 from the dome? I think your pictures are upside down as well. Did you look at the part in Cura layer view (did you use Cura)? I suspect whatever you think is weird on your part looks the same in layer view. You need to show 2 photos: what you want, and what you got. One of those 2 pictures should be cura layer view. This will tell you one thing, and me 2 things: 1) Is it a slicing problem or a printing problem. 2) What is different from what you want.

I always set my temp to 0C in cura which means Cura doesn't do anything related to temperature so you can add your own temperature gcodes (there's one where it waits until it gets to the temp and another gcode where it doesn't wait) or you can set the temp before you start the print or whatever.

Think about how strong legos are and they are mostly hollow. Legos are ABS. You can print ABS or PLA. Both are very strong. Printing solid takes a very long time. Download cura, (it's free - you don't need a printer). Put a model into it and let it slice it. Look at the estimated time (it's pretty accurate) then change the fill to 100% and look at the new time, lol.

Or you can get relief maps - geologic maps of an area where the color is the height and print out a mountain or a country or whatever showing the mountain range, etc. Someone posted somewhere where to get that kind of info.

Please post pic but if you can print 10mm^3/sec (some can't) then you can do .2mm layer, 230C, 120mm/sec, no retraction .8mm walls. I can't imagine that would take more than 10 hours. Post picture please (in cad or in cura).

It would also be good to post flaws in the assembly guide at the bottom of the page with the flaws as new people are likely to see the errors. Even better you can (no charge) create an account on the wiki and edit it yourself. I'm glad you finished assembly - there are still a few more hurdles/problems that you are likely to encounter so don't hesitate to search for answers on the forum or post your issues. Also please update your location information in your profile settings to specifiy your country as you might ask a question that has a different answer depending on the country you live in.

Oh man. I want some of that bronze filled PLA.

Um - maybe too late but this is an interesting graphical front end to Cura (or kisslicer). It doesn't support SD printing though - USB only as far as I can tell: http://www.mattercontrol.com/

I think that's the original poster's goal. He wants a relief map where the white regions are taller. Right?