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That website purposely slows down the download so it will take a few minutes. But the first thing you should know is never print anything before checking it carefully in cura layer view. There's no need to waste time printing errors when you can see the errors just fine in Cura layer view. You have to wait for it to completely load before checking each layer. You can use shift key and up/down arrows to move one layer at a time. Go up and down quickly looking at different areas of your part each time. The next thing you should know is to always look at your part in cura xray view. Any red areas are potential problem areas. You can often fix them by going into expert settings and there are 11 combinations of checkboxes in the "fix horrible" section. Up it just downloaded. If you check every box except for "B" in the fix horrible settings it looks okay - I only did a quick look.

If you want to get a baseline I recommend printing this part early on so that if you have problems later with underextrusion you can reprint the same thing and see if something changed (you only need to read the first post): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/

Some of the circled areas in your photos are vertical lines that really look like they are in the STL and also the gcode. You can prove this by loading the gcode into repetier host and seeing if you still see all the artifacts. The blobbing you see in some of the pictures can probably be reduced by printing a little slower - see pumpkin picture here (post #12): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/?p=24010 But I've seen Cura create some bizzarre blobs for questionable, strange STL files and they stick out big time in repetier host. Repetier host is free. Once installed simply drag and drop your gcode file into it: repetier host - free download: http://www.repetier.com/download/

Stringing is tricky and I should warn you that some types of PLA will string no matter what you do. But in general you need the right retraction settings and you need to lower the temp. There are 6 retraction related settings: 1) Make sure retraction is checked on basic/quality 2) In expert settings set minimum travel to 0mm or at least something small like 1mm. 3) In expert settings set "minimal extrusion..." to 0 or something well under .1mm. There is a 160X factor on this for .1mm layers so if you extrude .02mm filament you will get 3.2mm of straight line extruding. So the default is to not retract if you print for less than 3.2mm of linear printing (for .1mm layers). 4) In expert settings you can set "combing" on or off - it shouldn't make a huge difference for this part. Lately turning this "off" seems better in the current version of Cura but in the next version it might be best to turn it back on. 5,6) For the UM Original, you can also control the amount and speed of retraction. I recommend 40mm/sec (which works well for old and new Marlin firmware) and if you printed this part then 4.5mm retraction should be about perfect: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46157 Without the above part you need approximately 5.5mm retraction. STRINGING/TEMPERATURE There is also less stringing if you print slower because the pressures are lower in the nozzle. For example 35mm/sec with .1mm layers. Be patient if you care so much about stringing. And finally temperature - colder is better but you also have to print slower if you go colder to get that viscous stuff through the nozzle. Think toothpaste consistency when PLA is cooler and honey consistency when PLA is hotter: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

Maybe. It looks just like it but it could also be slicer or something else. But if you are right then it simply means you were a tiny bit too close from nozzle to bed when you levelled. The levelling looks quite close. What is your bottom layer height? I like to make this .3mm to compensate for my levelling errors.

It's a cooling issue. It looks like the fan on the right (the problem side) is fine. So I think it is simply that your bed is too hot. The default is 75C which is too hot. You will get much better results at 70C. It doesn't sound like much but it makes a diff. Most people use 60C. I usually use 60C but for very large parts I usually use 70C to keep the corners from lifting. The reason it isn't symmetrical is because the nozzle is to the left of center so the left fan has a better angle on cooling the part. Also the right fan is squished a bit. Look at the gap between the head and the fan on each side. It should be more like the fan on the left. You can just pry that apart with a screwdriver.

I recommend at least .5mm shell by the way. If you want this to be watertight.

Yes, but not until it gets to the wall.

But it does 2X extrusion. In cura look at meters of filament used. Then change shell to .4 and you will see it will reduce by quite a bit (the part for the wall - the base will use the same amount).

While the UM2 is printing you can place your finger on/inside the head so that the tip of your finger is touching the heat sink and the side of your finger is almost touching that ring with the holes in it. If you "stay loose" you can "surf" the head as it wiggles around. It's not very hot. At all. It's a pleasant temperature, nowhere near the 220C that the nozzle is at. So it seems to work very very well as far as I can tell.

I printed this case for my galaxy S4. I like the case but these ballistic cases are kind of large for my pocket: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/galaxy-s4-ballistic-case

I've never seen one of these before. Ever. It doesn't look like a kink, it looks like the filament is wider at that spot.

Two things: 1) The printer tends to "overshoot" so going from 220 to 200 will dip down to 195 for a bit. You might want to do it in 2 stages - go to 205, then 200 the following layer. 2) The good (and bad) thing about plugins is that they are saved along with all other settings. So the good thing is once this is set up it will work for all future prints unless you go in and remove the plugin. The bad news is if you don't want it on all future prints you might forget and get it anyway.

It only takes a few minutes actually, but if you take the wood cover off the ulticontroller you will see a small potentiometer in there. You have to pretty much take the whole thing apart. Turn that back and forth (while power is on) until the display is perfect.

The printer ONLY RECOGNIZES GCODE files. Not amf or stl. amf and stl files have to be processed using Cura to be converted to gcode: http://software.ultimaker.com

Personally I wouldn't jump from 1.6 to 3.2 but would go maybe to 2.0mm.

Sorry about that. Maybe you need an episode of Myth Busters. They almost always blow stuff up on that show.

Actually it is trying to do 8mm^3. I'm impressed it did so well. The problem is with spiralize: it does it in a single pass so it is trying to do 200% flow to get that shell of 0.8. It's tough to squeeze .8mm wall out of a .4mm nozzle so it just can't quite do it. I think if you do .5 or .6mm shell you will be good.

I think it's erik's ultimaker. He's one of the founders.

I think dgsharp is correct. Pause as a gcode doesn't work on UM2 for sure, but I guess the pause function while printing may work just fine.

The machine can handle it if it tries to go "beyond the limit". It will sound like crap but it will be fine. There is a built in software "endstop" already so it won't go beyond 205mm in x or y even if you order it to. I would not skip on the bottom Z stop, but the right X stop and rear Y stop are useless. The UM2 only has 3 endstops and it works fine.

You are doing great! You have definitely proved the problem is in the Z bed movement. If power is off you should be able to raise the bed by pushing up and down on it firmly but don't do this on the front edge - do this near the back of the bed near the screws and such. It is true that the Z motor is very noisy compared to everything else on the printer so it's hard to say if what you heard was normal or not. Maybe 10X louder. Is your Z screw coated in green grease? It should be. You should have gotten a tiny packet of green grease with your UM2. But I don't think that is the problem. I think something else is loose/broken. It's okay to *oil* (not grease) the 2 vertical metal cylinders with a light petroleum oil. Any petroleum oil will do preferably with as few as possible additives.

How to continue a failed print even if you already hit power switch: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4213-ideas-for-recovering-failed-prints/ The instructions above could use some work... let me know whats confusing about it.

I would shave that down with a razor blade. UM1 can pause print. I'm not sure if UM2 can but I've been able to continue a long print after it failed. It's tricky - let me know if you want all the details - I have an explanation written up somewhere... So in summary - if you have a UM2, try to stop it in a recognizable spot - memorize where the print head is, and then just cut power and quickly push print head off to the side before it leaves a big blob on your print. Then you can take your time (maybe hours?) and continue the print at your leisure. However you should keep the bed hot the whole time. If the bed cools to much your print might just pop off.

Ah good - you have an understanding of the electronics. It's not the fans that get too much power, its Q4. Part number is BD679. Looking at spec sheet... Vce Max is 2.8V (I need this to know how much power is dissipated) but probably a bit lower. Max power dissipation at 105C is 15 watts. So max current is 15watts/2.8V or 5 amps. But you would need a massive amount of cooling to cool that part to 105C when it is putting out 15 watts. I think you would need a huge heat sink. But there is no heat sink at all on Q4. The part is advertised as a "40 watt" darlington. But again, you would need one hell of a heat sink. So really, it is undetermined how much current that thing can handle. I would put water on it and if it gets hot enough to boil water within 5 minutes of full fan speed, then it's likely to fail. It's probably fine. Many people have connected a second fan. And if you break Q4 it is a very cheap and easy part to replace.