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M907 E500 - sets extruder current to 500ma. Default is 1250ma. Max is 2000ma. Someone found 1500 was significant improvement but going to higher currents made it worse again and the stepper kind of vibrated or something strange. Any higher than 1250 and I get grinding. I guess my stepper is nice and strong. Put the above gcode in the top of your test if you want to try it.

That sounded pretty normal. I heard a faint squeak sound when it was doing the farther screw holes - is that what you mean?

There's a Cura log file somewhere with errors. Post it for a diagnosis. Probably something about your graphics card.

You could get a second nozzle and drill it out. I have 2 um2 nozzles - large one is at .7mm. Unlikely to get clogs there. Changing nozzles on the UM2 is a pain. I've only done it twice and the second time still took me 25 minutes. If you ask Sander very nicely he will probably give you a second nozzle for free. Did you get your jam cleaned out? http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4118-blocked-nozzle/?p=33691

If you are printing at 10mm^3/sec then yes. But that's damn fast. For .2mm layers that is 125mm/sec. For .1mm layers that is 250mm/sec. So if you are printing that fast, then definitely - go 230C or even 240C. It depends on the filament color. I think this gold color doesn't need as high a temp. If you are getting stringing then consider going cooler: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

At what temp? What color?

This problem on the top of the turtle is very common and also occurrs on the robot antennas. It's because the head is making tiny circles and the PLA doesn't get a chance to freeze and it is like stirring soup on the top layers. The 2 most commonly used fixes are: 1) cool head lift 2) print 2 of them I did cool head lift on a print today - sometimes it works well - sometimes not so well. Today results were in betwen - got 2 strings going - well diagonally up, lol. While cooling the head kept extruding a tiny .4mm diameter drop. Very slowly - it took 5 seconds to get to full size drop. If it were me I would print a 5mm diameter cylinder next to the turtle that is 2 layers taller than the turtle. That will move the head away while it prints the cylinder. Cool head lift tends to cause more stringing. Also I would lower the temp to 210 to reduce stringing between turtle and cylinder and print at 30mm/sec if I wanted really nice quality.

This seems to change with different versions of Cura so I would experiment, but typically it can print down to your nozzle diameter. So if you set the nozzle diameter to .4mm it can typically print down to .4 or maybe .41mm (walls can get thinner on curves with less than infinite edges?) You don't have to edit the model in cad each time. You can scale your part in Cura or you can play with nozzle width until you find the formula for thinnest wall versus nozzle diameter. Shell thickness setting *might* affect things also but probably not.

Robert, you show 45 degree in red but if you have a .4mm nozzle and a .1mm layer height you can change that possibly to a .1 to .4 ratio or 14 degrees. Because often it works anyway - gravity is not a significant force sometimes and sometimes (if the fans are cranking on 100%) you can actually build a shelf hanging over nothing. The UM and UM2 are pretty good at this.

:lol: :lol: Yes.

Are you missing a screw or nut for one of the 3 leveling screws? Leveling involves both using the computer knob which moves the entire bed up and down and also using the 3 thumb screws for the last tiny bit of leveling.

Don't slow it down! Just reduce acceleration. Here are the results of someone's experiment - only lowering acceleration helped - consider 1000mm/sec - posting #8: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2532-prevent-ringing-wobbly-surface-after-sharp-corners/?p=18006 HOWEVER, looking at his pictures and your picture they look quite a bit different. I'm not convinced that is ringing.

Are you going to get them from Ultimaker? Lots of people sell these. I assume they are compatable but I don't know - I guess I'd have to look at the pin out diagram. Try googleing "reprap pololu" http://www.banggood.com/3D-Printer-A4988-Reprap-Stepping-Stepper-Step-Motor-Driver-Module-p-88765.html?currency=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_content=miko_ruby&utm_campaign=all-us&gclid=CKO39rP4pL0CFchQ7AodlQoAtA

Yes - you are definitely skipping backwards. It looks like you are printing very fast - maybe 5 cubic mm/sec? I'm not sure - I don't have a good eye for this. Anyway, of course the quick fix is to print hotter. Or slower. What is your: - layer height? - print speed? - nozzle temperature? There's lots of discussion and fixes. I'm not sure what it is that people did to fix this issue but it seems different for everyone. One person simply got a new nozzle and bowden tube and all problems went away. I recommend: - you put the filament on the floor in some kind of holder so the filament approaches straighter - print at 240C (or print slower) - if printing over 4 cubic mm/sec then even hotter - 250C (but this is too hot if you are printing slow) e.g. 100mm/sec .1mm layer - Check for tilted Extruder motor due to the nut holding the frame together sitcking into the back - look down from above the top of the UM2 at the E motor where it touches the back of the machine - Check knurled wheel to make sure it is touching the PLA nicely - Try increasing the current of your extruder motor from 1.25ma to 1.5ma - this made a huge difference for some. Unfortunately there is so much info about this topic and it is spread among 800 posts: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/ http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3976-almost-always-missing-layers-underextruding/ In the second thread above, post #545 by me lists all the theories as to what might cause this: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3976-almost-always-missing-layers-underextruding/?p=39843

It's the printing slow. It allows each layer to cool more. You will be better off printing at 20C for anything larger than this as 16C will make it more likely for the corners of parts to lift off the bed. "curling".

Octoprint is a great way to do remote printing. I hear. doodle3d also. Someone spent at least a month of hard work creating prontrface. I'd rather daid work on new stuff then have him duplicating prontrface. I suggest you try it. It's free. It will print all your Cura generated gcode. It has lots of great options. There are other software as wel that's free like repetier host that also visualizes the currently being printed trace in 3d: printrun/pronterface/prontrface download: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/

What print speed? You may have a partial clog in your nozzle but probably not. You seem to be missing the horse-shoe ring on the white clip that holds the bowden down - the blue clip in this picture: http://farm9.static.flickr.com/8401/8643110880_7ac19c883d.jpg McMaster sells a pack of 10 for $2.29, Part # 51055K413. You can print one that is even better: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46157 Be very careful. That white clip that holds the bowden - I call it the "bowden holder". It has 4 metal knives that dig into the bowden. Those knives can break or get twisted the wrong way. More likely though - you can scrape the outside of the bowden - removing the outer layer of material. The bowden may look fine but be missing a little bit of material. It's visible but you have to look very carefully. The fix for that is to cut off a tiny bit off the bottom of the bowden - 1mm or 2mm should be enough. If you do this too many times you will need a new bowden. Normally to remove the bowden you push down on the white bowden holder and lift the bowden at the same time.

It's best to message him directly. He doesn't read the forum every day. Click on "send me a message" after clicking on this link: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/user/423-sandervg/

Spend the 25 Euros and get a Raspberry Pi maybe? Cheaper than some crazy long USB cable with buffering built in.

There were some early UM2 shipments where the two gray ribbon cables under the machine were too close together or something like that. The signals going from the SD card to the arduino were getting lots of errors from cross-talk noise. Maybe see if you can seperate those cables by a few mm (so they aren't touching).

What he said. And will print much faster.

That firmware is fine. Excellent in fact. Sometimes the USB can't keep up with the printer if you have lots of very tiny movements. I doubt this is your problem. It's kind of obvious - if you try to speed up the feedrate it won't print any faster. You won't hear a difference. If you don't have a musical ear then don't even try this test but I still doubt you hit the USB speed limit and even if you did I'm not sure that it would make the part particularly ugly.

That may be best for a little while. I don't know much about it because I only use the ulticontroller but Daid made these screens easily hackable. So you can edit/create your own. Just wait a few weeks and people will hopefully start posting different screens and hacks. Or if you already know a few gcodes you can create your own.

Yes... I suppose. The electronics by default provide a 19V signal, not a relay. But you can cheat and use only one side of the green screw connectors which get grounded when bed power is "on". If you do this now you have a big ground loop so it would be good to connect your new 24V power supply ground to the UM ground somewhere. Whereas if you go the relay solution your 24V supply is isolated from the UM by the relay. The mosfet built into the UM Original PCB is supposed to be able to handle 90A and the 24V shouldn't be a problem (although I didn't check that spec) so I think it would work just fine. Just make sure you know which side of that green connector is permanently 19V (pin 1) and which side is controlled by the mosfet (pin 2). Even the LED on the PCB should light up properly when the bed is on. But you can't normally see it under your UM so it's not really important although it might slightly aid in debugging when you first hook everything up.

Trace those (black I think) wires to the switch. If you have a multimeter, remove that connector and measure the resistance at that connector and when you push the switch the resistance should go from infinite to around 0 ohms (certainly less than 10 ohms).