gr5

That update might only be related to Ultimaker 2's. Daid hasn't given out much details on that issue. I think the update is a firmware update but even that I'm unclear on.

Paul I don't think you read my post about flow. Please read it again and check your 13.10 setings. Many many people reported the same thing as you did and this was how they fixed it.

Up your flow and thickness of the brim. If first layer was .1mm then up to .2mm. If it was .2mm then up to .3mm then also increase flow to maybe 150% while doing the brim and outer skin to get good connection.

See? Not the same problem. I've heard people say they used teflon plumbers tape to stop leaks. Have you ever used that in plumbing? It's very cheap - its a thin teflon tape that you wrap 2 or 3 times around the threads and then screw it in. Also other people use ABS to plug leaks. Ultimaker used to ship a little bit of ABS filament with every UM and you were supposed to use that to plug leaks somehow but I'm not sure what the temperature and procedure is exactly.

Yeah, I said the same thing. The guy is long gone and will probably never read any of our answers. :(

But.... Did you use a brim? It's a feature in Cura in the basic settings under "support". Plus there are modifications in expert settings I think.

How big is your part? Can you rotate it 90 degrees?

I was thinking the same thing but then someone over on the google groups mentioned you could modify it slightly and use 2 springs (one much stronger than the other) in such a way that you still get the safety buffer of a springed platform (so if the nozzle hits the platform hard, it will give in a bit and nothing will break). The strong spring is the safety spring. The weaker spring is used only during the leveling process.

Try: 1) printing with a different computer 2) Buy a very inexpensive USB hub (to amplify the signal) 3) Turning off all screen saver features and all power saver features in your operating system. 4) Using a laptop (which has a more stable power supply)

Does it show half height in Cura? Or only *after* you print? If the problem is only *after* you print then download pronterface, and read about the gcodes to set the Z resolution: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/ If the problem is in Cura (half height shown visually in Cura) then click on the object then select scale icon in bottom left corner of view, then click the lock to unlock the 3 scales, then change "scale Z" to "2.0".

brim porn! OH BABY!

I wouldn't flip. Printing with the solid covered circle up (open side down) should have less warping issues. This part is very open which will reduce warping but you will still have some. It's very tough to print something like this with zero brim and still get it to stick. Can you make it 1mm smaller on each side? There is only 1mm to spare right now and you probably need some brim if you want this to stick. I don't know the answer to your question - it *should* be printable but I don't have much experience with how to get things to stick to glass yet. I would personally add brim to the cad where it can be - so those square corners should get a brim (like a hat brim) which should be .2mm thick (so only one layer!) and the wider the better, but 5mm should be enough. This helps hold down the corners. Corners have more issues than rounded edges.

I strongly recomend the brim feature for that part as otherwise the shrinkage may pull the corners off the print bed. Also use gluestick *and* heat the bed to 50C. But if you use too much brim it will be too big to print so just do 2 passes of brim. Or better - modify your model to have a 5mm wide, .2mm tall (thick) brim on the *inside* of the square in addition to 2mm brim on the outside.

I agree - if you print a raft, bed leveling is less important. But the reverse is also true: If you level very well, rafts are not needed.

Yes, but only where the part was. Sometimes with the UM2, I watched the UM employees print at makerFaire and they usually had to set the bed temperature to about 40C or 50C to get the bed to stick better. In addition to glue stick. I have not yet printed on glass.

You can't put holes in the bottom? In the middle of the big flat area? Anyway - did you use brim when printing on glass? I also have a hard time getting my models up off the blue tape. It is a pain in the neck and I pretty much always tear it to hell and it can take a while. I'm looking forward to testing printing on glass.

If you had chosen XRAY view in cura it would have shown the problems in red. Also the "fix horrible" checkboxes may have let you print it without fixing the "errors".

I deduce the cause of death to be blunt force trauma to the head. Lol. Too much CSI? Looks good - so how does it look *after* you remove the support?

I never use raft. I recommend you never use it. I believe Daid doesn't like it either. Illuminarti doesn't like it either. But brim is nice. Here is a shot of a print I did with nice brim. It turned a man with small feet into a man standing on a pancake. All the people in the picture have brim but you can see it best on the person on the far right. Click the picture to zoom, then right click and "show image" to zoom more, then click again to zoom still more. If you can't see each individual pass of the nozzle around the brim then you should be zooming in more. If I had printed without the brim he would have fallen over during printing.

I can print a full size cup with zero infill and .4mm (one pass) walls in 20 minutes - so I guess so - roundish objects tend to print fast. Print it again with 20% infill and same print speed and I'm going to guess 2 hours. Infill has lots of corners where the print head has to slow down almost to a stop. An algorithm for printing curved ending infill might be tricky. It might even be impossible to get it to be fast and gently touch the walls but I think you want a path similar to what the Zamboni does on an ice rink.

Those garbled receive messages look fine to me (but I don't really know). To detect baudrate I assume you just try a bunch of different ones until it starts working so I am guessing that's normal. MAXTEMP however is more serious. It usually means an intermittent connection to the thermocouple in the print head and nothing works once I get that until I power cycle the ultimaker.

Well the difference between 2.85 and 3 is 11% so like you said, adding 10% to your flow was about the same difference as putting in the correct filament diameter. Interesting.

In Cura there is a spot where you can enter the filament diameter. What did you have there? That affects the flow also in the same way. So if you enter 1.414mm you will get twice as much flow as if you enter 1.00mm because flow is proportional to the *area* of the filament (pi * diameter). Anyway I believe that should default to 2.89. The difference between 2.89 and 2.85 is minimal. If you don't have them, buy some calipers that are accurate to .01mm and measure the filament often.

There's a tiny bit more information about the truck here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/467-post-your-latest-print/page-32#entry21258 Scroll to post #631 (post numbers on right edge) in case the above link doesn't get you exactly to the right post. Then read post #636.

Please go to "gallery" in the top left corner of this page and upload the picture. Then post a new message in this forum and click on "my media" next to the smiley face and select that uploaded image. Thanks! The "clear tube" is called the bowden. Did you remove the bowden from either end yet? I need to see the photo but I'm guessing you can't do much until you do that. I guess you'll have to remove it from the print head - remove the blue clip, push down hard on the outer ring and pull up on the bowden. You should have the print head at 180C when you do this so that you aren't fighting with the plug also. Then once that is off you can use hot water as Robert says.