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This one seems to work pretty well now. I know at least one person who has used it successfully: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ If you find any bugs post back here and I will make sure he knows to fix it. He is very fast at fixing bugs. Or you can use that site only to get the Configuration.h file, then inspect it yourself and build it yourself. Here is a site that explains all the steps to download marlin, download the ide and build it command line (although building it through the GUI is even easier): http://www.extrudable.me/2013/05/03/building-marlin-from-scratch/ When building Marlin 90% of the effort is in carefully editing Configuarion.h. That Marlinbuilder website (first link above) does this for you.

I should have mentioned that play isn't always from the belts - some people have had bad head bearings and if you grab the print head and move it in both axes it should be stiff and not move much (until the belts start moving). Regarding your previous post: I've never run the bed leveling wizard so don't understand what you are trying to say. Maybe the bed leveling wizard doesn't go to the edge on purpose? Maybe it's supposed to do that? I really don't know but I don't quite see what the problem is.

So many questions... I haven't had this problem. Some people say if you ignore it eventually the volatiles evaporate and you are left with a nice permanent plug. Sounds like maybe your nozzle wasn't screwed in all the way? If you try to tighten it now though you might break it. Definitely heat it to 240C before trying to screw or unscrew the nozzle and be gentle as brass isn't very strong. If it's really a problem I recommend posting a photo in a separate (new) thread. google. Or ask in this forum. Not sure what you mean. I'm guessing maybe you mean the first few minutes? Always print with a skirt by default. If the string doesn't come off as soon as it starts printing the skirt, your bed isn't close enough to the head. Leveling is one of those things that takes more patience than most people (like me) give it. The first layer is critical to get squished a bit into the blue tape or it won't stick well. If you are talking about something else then post a picture or a video maybe? Just read everything posted here for the next 3 months and you will learn them all. Here's one: always clean fresh blue tape with rubbing alcohol (aka isopropyl alcohol found anywhere bandages are sold). This removes the non-sticky stuff (wax?) they put on there so that the tape unwraps. It makes parts stick to the blue tape so so so well!

I have the same clip that Illuminarti refers to which requires a wire tie. The other ones all eventually broke. I have found that some PLA will string (a little) no matter what you do but other's are very well behaved if you print cool enough: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

50mm/sec is a good speed for .2mm layer height. I don't like to go over 75mm for .2mm layer height. For .1mm layer height 100mm/sec is a good speed.

That same thing happened to me a few weeks ago. I fixed it by pulling the filament out of the bowden, undoing the tangle and feeding it back through. But it ruined a print. The problem was relatively obvious when it happened.

You have three distinct problems: you had a sudden "slip" on one of the axes and you have infill not touching the walls and you have underextruded infill. The underextruded infill is probably due to the speed change of 150mm versus 100mm for walls. If you set them both to 150 or both to 100 you should get a more consistent result (or maybe then the walls will get underextruded also). 150mm/sec at .075mm layer height shouldn't be difficult to extrude so if you can't print at that speed then something is wrong with your feeder (not tight enough). But more likely it's the speed change. It takes a while to switch from 100 to 150 and back again. Problem 2: infill not touching walls. This is usually due to play (aka backlash). Please read up on it here if you want to fix this: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/?p=14474 Make sure you also look at the photo 2 posts earlier with the 5 cubes - zoom way the hell in on that picture and read the associated text. This explains a lot! Problem 3: sudden shift. Illuminarti has suggested some things. It could be skipped steps like he says or it could be the pulley's slipping on the shaft. I recommend marking the pulleys and the shafts with a sharpie so if it happens again you can know for sure which pulley is slipping or know for sure that none of them are slipping. BUT you have to mark ALL 6 pulleys for the slipping axis. The two most likely are the 2 on the short belt (the motor one and the other one). Also I would consider tightening the set screws more or even replacing them with the better ones that come with the UM (the pulleys come with black ones and UM ships better ones with your UM kit).

Several people have asked for this. Daid is thinking about it. He will probably make the change eventually.

3dguy - you are a few months too late. It's now the official version.

Try turning the little potentiometer on the driver a tiny bit before ordering a new one.

Check the flow parameter. It should be 100 (as in 100%). Sometimes people set it to 10 or 1 by accident.

It is very likely one of two things: 1) Bad stepper motor 2) Bad driver (aka polulu) Swap something to see if the problem moves. I would remove all filament, heat up the head to 180C (extruder won't move if temp is < 170C). Then move the extruder until it stops working. Figure out how long that took. Write it down. Now turn off power, swap drivers, try again. If it lasted much longer (forever) then it is a bad driver. Maybe you can adjust the current on it. If it lasted about the same amount of time, now change motors. Swap stepper motor with X or Y stepper. Repeat experiment.

I have both sets (black-bad and silver-good) and am using the "bad" ones and have had no trouble but I really tightened them severely. I was afraid I was going to shatter the handle of the screwdriver.

Julien we've seen this exact issue many many times by new members so you are not alone. Illuminarti speaks with wisdom. Also check the movement of both axes and if X axis is stickier add a drop of light oil (not grease or wd40). But I'm pretty sure it's your x axis short belt rubbing the frame which is fixed by adding washers under the plastic spacers. It's intermittent because it only happens on certain high accelerations or changes in acceleration. Even though you used the same cura settings, the infill for example ends up in a slightly different spot for different shaped parts. If you do what illuminarti says and it still does this let us know because there are other details we are leaving out.

I call this "stringing". I can remove it altogether 100% if I lower the temp enough but only for certain colors of PLA. For example I found "printbl White" to be impossible to stop it completely. Here's an experiment I did with it: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

I got mine in USA from here: http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/catalog/ALUMINUM/PLATE/MIC-6 The tolerance is much better than +/- .1mm. Other types of aluminum will warp over time and will warp when heated and won't be as flat unless the last step they do is to machine it flat on a milling machine which I would expect to cost something like $100 just for that step. Look harder for mic6. It's great stuff. I rechecked and I was wrong about the thickness. I got .5 inch (about 12mm) which was much too thick. I think 6mm would be about right. The worst thing about 12mm thick plate is it takes so long to heat up - maybe 20 minutes with an 80W heater. If I did this as a business I would both buy a more powerful heater and a thinner sheet of aluminum but I rarely use the heater lately anyway.

The plastic that holds the screws will be fine. It won't get too hot. I have 6mm aluminum plate and it isn't too heavy but I wish I got the 4mm. Make sure you get MIC6 aluminum. Because of the weight my wooden ultimaker support arms droop from day to day so I have to relevel often. But they are very solid and the weight is not a problem at all.

lol. Illuminarti we aren't all as mechanically brilliant as you are. Give the guy a break. I would definitely think this is a problem. Maybe print this one instead which I beleive is as close to stock as possible and is what Daid uses, or use the original and repair it with kapton tape: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17602

My guess is dust. I'm guessing most people's nozzle clogs are caused by dust and it needs to be burned out with a flame. I'm guessing your ABS was not in a protective bag and it gathered a tiny amount of dust. Or perhaps your whole room is a dusty environment. But this is just a hypothesis with little evidence to back it up.

If you decide to remove the nozzle be careful as many people have broken theirs - it's more delicate than you might expect. Make sure you get it nice and hot before unscrewing it and be gentle.

Order some cheap kapton tape from ebay. You can use this to connect many of these pieces together and if you use the aluminum only instead of glass also then kapton can be your topmost layer. Aluminum should be mic6 (it matters! look up mic6 aluminum on wikipedia) which is not particularly expensive or anything but very very flat and won't warp. Personally I just put the heater taped under the aluminum, reversed the UM bolts so the screw head is down instead of up, got rid of the springs, and support the aluminum bed from below. The heater is small enough to fit between the screws for my paticular heater. If you do this then you can get screws with large heads (or print something to go over the screw head!) for easy turning by finger when leveling.

yes. That's plenty. I got mine off some old junker electronics. yellow,violet,red. Double check with ohmeter after removing.

This is a common problem but with many causes. The most common is slipping pulleys. There are 6 pulleys on the Y axis. If you are anything like me you probably only tighted the 4 obvious ones but missed the 2 on the short belt. Tighten the hell out of those 2 pulleys (as well as the other 4 pulleys). Consider marking all 6 (all 6! Even the one on the motor) pulleys and their shaft so you can see which one is slipping. Also the UM came with higher quality set screws (versus the ones that are already inside the pulleys). You might want to replace the 2 on the short belt with the better set screws. Also sometimes the Y belt is rubbing against the wood. It is very subtle and difficult to see or hear. You can tell it's rubbing because the belt twists a different way each time it changes direction. If you see this, move the motor pulley as close to the motor as possible without touching (about 1/2 mm) and you probably also have to add washers under the 4 plastic spacers. If the Y belt is rubbing it causes this slipping also but usually not sudden like you describe - usually it causes missing steps on the motor and it's more of a tilt to all your printed parts. There are other potential causes but do this first.

What temperature? Normally, the lower the temperature, the less stringing there is. Perhaps if you lower down to 190C or 180C it will stop? http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

This reminds me - for fun I tried slicing at a millionth of a millimeter and Cura couldn't handle it. I think I crashed something but it wasn't too hard to recover. I might have deleted steam engine from task manager, but I don't remember. I think I just changed it back to .2 and all was fine but I really don't remember.