gr5

You should start a new thread. What temp are you printing at? I'm not sure if there *is* a fix. Those antennas are tiny and even though you print only one layer every 7 seconds, the head is still touching the antennas most of the time. There is some new kind of head-cool-retraction setting in the new cura. I'm not sure what it does but I think it is supposed to rest above the part for 5 seconds to let the layer cool. I guess I would manually lower the temp when the printer is almost done with the robot's head. I would lower to 185C and then when that is stable for a few minutes I would lower to 180 (if you hit 170 I believe Marlin shuts off the extruder so be careful). I would experiment with printing only the top of the head of the UM robot. Another solution is to create a "cooling tower" where you print a small pillar next to the robot while printing the robot at the same time. The problem is then you will have stringing issues which have their own challenges (but can be dealt with nicely after some experimentation).

I see no picture. Sorry.

You can post pictures by clicking on gallery in the top left of this page before making a post. You can upload certain file types (not sure about stl and gcode - I think not gcode). Then start your post an click "my media" next to the smile icon. This lets you insert your picture into the post. which axis stops moving at 56mm height? Maybe you hit a limit switch? I doubt it has anything to do with cura slicing. Are you using the ulticontroller? If not could it be related to a screen saver?

I think you are missing the arduino. You can see it sticking out on the left side of this picture: http://blog.hekkers.net/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/Ultimakerboard_resize.jpg

Yikes. I would have bought a tap. I hope you didn't break the brass as it is delicate. I guess you would have mentioned it. Do you also have a problem where much less than 10 pounds force can pull out the bowden tube?

Did you check "type b" in "fix horrible"? Does that make a difference on the skirt? Hmm. Probably not. In old cura the skirt avoids *all* the layers above. In the new cura the skirt only avoids touching the bottom layer of the part. I can see cases where either might be preferred. For example if you have a part that is the full width of the machine (205 by 205mm) but the bottom layer is only 100mmX100mm then you want the skirt to be close to the 100mm layer otherwise you will hit the limit switches.

Well it's more like 1 cent per print because I only replace the center strip of kapton and only about one in 10 prints.

Brilliant! Love it!

The old cura had a feature called "packing density" which was supposed to be I believe a value less than 1 for ABS. The new cura has the same feature but it is inverse and called "flow" I think. You need to take the packing density invert it and store that in flow. For example if packing density was .95 then flow should be approximately 1.05 (more accurately 1/0.95).

Sorry, no. Either it's a bug in which case Daid should answer. Or it's a feature in which case Daid should answer. But either way I don't care about skirts combined with raft as it seems silly.

I can do about 80 degrees from horizontal. Are you sure you can't do 60? Having said that, I should also mention that Daid said the support feature needs a lot of work.

Oh! It's the skirt setting you have a problem with? That was not clear from your post. Sounds like a bug. What did you set the skirt distance to? I've never tried doing a raft *and* a skirt before. Seems like if you have a raft then you don't need a skirt as the purpose of the skirt is to get the plastic flowing and to double check your bed height/leveling and the raft does all this plus it also compensates for bad leveling.

That's not good. There is a "bug" in that model. It has a rectangular block inside part of the important part of the model. I think the rectangle is for support. Anyway you should go to the expert settings "fix horrible" settings and check "type b". This should make it slice closer to Cura 13.04.

It's not easy to do as a plugin I don't think. Well I suppose you could slice at high resolution and the plugin could delete every other layer (and double extruder feedrate) where you want to print faster. I've wished for this feature myself.

All great advice except one detail: Kapton tape shouldn't be particularly expensive. If you are in the USA then you can get it cheap on ebay. Shipping to other countries though might be more difficult - I don't know. It's about 40 cents to completely cover the UM bed but I don't replace it after every print.

Are you using Cura 13.06.X? As it has changed the way walls are filled. One setting you can try is to set the skin thickness to 100mm. I believe it will fill with continuous passes only. Just try it and see what the gcode view looks like. Also you can reduce those little blobs by lowering the temperature (see first photo): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

Sometimes when I install Cura, it goes into a new folder and has been a different application name. None of the applications are called "Cura" but instead they are called e.g. "Cura 13.06". Does this mean if I install 13.06.4 it replaces 13.06.3 but if I install 13.07 (some day) it goes in a separate folder?

It seems that what cura is calling 0% and 100% infill should be called 50% and 150% infill. And what the old cura called 15% infill is now called -35% (do negative numbers work?).

Brim is important only for large parts - for example 4 to 8 inches long because the warping lifts the corners. You need every possible amount of brim for these parts to hold the corners down. Especially with ABS which has even worse warping. The old Cura did brim also but it was kind of a hidden feature. It was called "skirt with distance 0".

Then would it make sense to change the hover tip to say: "Set to 50% if you want 100% overlap of the infill and wall" ??

Your issue is a new one for me. I've been reading posts here for a long time and it seems to be something new. Grasping at straws - some crazy theories: 1) Does the printer pause for a long time (say a second) when it changes layers (i.e. when z screw rotates)? It shouldn't but if it does I have a theory why that would cause this and the fix would be to have it not pause. What you describe sounds like underextrusion followed by overextrusion. Where the nozzle pressure is building up followed by over extrusion. What could cause that? 2) inconsistent z steps. Does this happen with .2mm steps? If the z movement is inconsistent then a .2mm step should help mask the problem. Also you should put a drop of the green grease that came with you UM on the z screw and run the platform up and down past the grease a few times. 3) Does you z platform stick? Using cura or pronterface, move the Z axis in huge steps - say 100mm vertically. watch carefully to see if it sticks for .1mm and then suddenly moves again. Maybe turn the Z screw by hand. It should be easy to turn with all of the friction being from the stepper motor. 4) Does your Z screw wobble? Is it all the way into the coupler? Look at photos of the z screw coupler on the assembly instructions and compare to your coupler visually.

Then I was wrong. To post a picture, Click on "Gallery" at the top left of this page. Create an album, upload a picture, then "post" a response to this topic and click on "my media" next to the smiley face.

Daid was right! I don't think it was the 10 versus 8 layers - it must have been the temp.

Did you read my post above? The bowden tube should be able to handle 11 pounds of pulling force on each end. Test it. Remove the filment first or make sure the filament is loose. Please please please please please photograph your hot end and post the picture here. to post pictures you have to start by clicking "gallery" up at the top left of this page.

If there is any gap at all between fill and wall, then you should tighten your belts. I was told this before and didn't believe it but here are more details about why this is true: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/?p=14474 Also look at the picture two posts before the above post. The good news is that it is usually your short belts that need tightening (the ones to the motors) and they are very very easy to tighten - just loosen the 4 screws, push down on the stepper motor, and retighten.