hreedijk

Maybe I didn't express myself right in English so here in Dutch: "Vanuit technisch perspectief zou ik niet weten waarom dit niet zou kunnen (een andere hot-end)".

Naast een lijm stick kun je ook kapton tape gebruiken op je glasplaat. Werkt voor ABS, PLA, Nylon en XT.

At technical point of view I don't see why not, the 6mm rods are easy to detach from the rod clamps so the print head can be detached pretty easy. I'ts more about the electronics and temp sensor of the E3D head that must be (made?) compatible with the UM2 PCB. Since I don't have an UM2 I cannot check this. If you don't have an conclusive answer from someone else by monday, I could ask it for you at the UM evening on the 6th.

I have that kind of fitting on both my extruder and hot-end, after installation I checked if the bowden can move up and down , it doesn't. Currently no picture of it by hand, but if you like I can make one this evening.

Your welcome...

Zoals Leon ook al aan geeft, een foto zegt enorm veel, heb je die wellicht?

ColorFabb was guest speaker at the Ultimaker evening in August and someone asked them the same question when they made the announcement of copperFill, the answer was unfortunately 'no'.

I hear the hint, below an official photo:

I had one broken stepper driver once, but I could get it at a local FabLab. As advised by Daid on the thread below you can use Pololu Black.... http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1315-stepper-drivers-fried-replacements/ Be sure the Amps are the same.

Hello Theo, There are 2 more things that can cause the problem: 1. the short belts are not tight enough, make sure the X and Y motor belts are tight, you may also check the pulley's attached on the motor shafts; 2. Looking at the image I see that the print is shifting on both the X and Y axis, are the X and Y axis square to each other? Can you move the print head around it's axis when the printer is powered off and if so, is it hard to move the head around?

I'll try to come the 6th, although I don't have an UM2.....

That is a standard feature of Cura, in the older version this was called "Joris Plugin". Is is to prevent a visible scar when a new layer starts at the exact same point as the previous one.

Those dot's really looks like starting points of a new layer. Another possible cause can be that the nozzle temp is too high for the settings you have set.

I'm testing copperFill at the moment and what I can say so far: The combination of speed and temperature for copperFill is not that different then any other filament. The most important thing is to keep the material not too long in the nozzle, the material needs to flow, otherwise the heat will go up to the teflon isolator coupler and the copperFill will stick to it. I've managed to print at speeds of 30mm/s up to 100mm/s with a 0.4mm nozzle. The material prints very nice and has a beautiful surface finish.

A broken stepper driver can cause many strange effects, you should replace it by a new one.

@Ultibrain: zoals Blizz al aan geeft kun je inderdaad wat langzamer printen op dezelfde temperatuur. Maximum temperatuur wat ik met woodFill heb geprint was 226 graden op een snelheid van 70mm/s

Minimaal 0.25mm laagdikte instellen, op 0.1mm verbrand de woodFill alsnog.....

Wat is de laagdikte waarop je Cura hebt ingesteld? Minimale laagdikte welke ik aanhoudt bij woodFill is 0.25 mm.

Yep, is erg belangrijk, een printsnelheid van 40mm/s is aan te raden.

This is indeed a very interesting printer.......

Indeed, if you use less fan, the filament has time to melt a little bit more onto the previous layer. If you use more fan, the adhesion is less or you need to set the nozzle temp higher to compensate. Let me know your results.

Hello Arjan, Last night I printed the gcode file from the link you gave me. It made a terrible noise on my UM1 but I've printed it anyway. My goal was to print the file with the minimum temperature possible, not to get the best print. The settings during the print where as follows: At 3mm3/s Temp 236 Flow 100 Fan's off At 4mm3/s Temp 240 Flow 100 Fan's off At 5mm3/s Temp 247 Flow 100 Fan's off At 6mm3/s Temp 254 Flow 100 Fan's off At 7mm3/s Temp 258 Flow 100 Fan's off At 8mm3/s Temp 258 Flow 110 Fan's 30% At 9mm3/s Temp 258 Flow 116 Fan's 50% At 10mm3/s Temp 262 Flow 120 Fan's 50% At the image below you can see when (at the higher speeds) I've adjusted the temp, flow and fan's of the printer during the test. The layer adhesion is indeed poor, I can pull the layers of the entire testprint apart. Now as you said already, this is just one file. To be more conclusive, I've drawn a cilinder with a diameter of 60mm and a height of 75mm, like the test file. Cura settings: 245 temp, 0.2mm layer height, 1 perimeter, no infill, print speed 90mm/s and fan speed 30% after 3 layers. I've set the flow speed on the printer back to 100%. This file prints a lot better, I could set the temp a bit higher to get a more smooth surface, but this test was about layer adhesion. With this testprint I cannot pull the layers apart like the previous print. If the layer adhesion is not good, I should hear cracking when I bend the object, I didn't hear it after many tries. You can download the cilinder testfile from here if you want to give it a try: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1911369/Shared%20Files/60MM_Test_Cilinder.STL

Indeed !

Looking at the gcode I see the fan is set up to the maximum speed (255) in 20 steps. First thing to do is keep the fan at minimum levels, if possible, entirely off.

Got it, I'll make a test print this evening in pink (magenta), let you know......