3dcase

Hoi, Ik ben voor een Nederlandse afdeling hier ! Tot die tijd kun je evt https://www.facebook.com/groups/Allesmaker/ hier ook terecht.

Morning all, I could not find a right place to put this. Found this site, Downloadable Honda car models. Perhaps some of you like it. http://www.honda-3d.com/ Regards Kees

Tadaaaaa drumrollll.... Found a place in the Stonefactory Did not stick it on though, when project is done they return to Ultimaker H.Q. , where they have enough stickers I guess.

Found one!!! :cool: Sander might still be only virtual though, did not see him around. But I had to ask one of the Founding Fathers (Erik) for it. He warned me to be careful with it, might become a collectors item the first release.He had to dig deep in his briefcase, not to many around yet. A shame I almost fainted..... should have asked for a autograph....

I hope I see SANDER at the Ulti-evening Tonight. Hope he still looks like his forum picture, so I know who to ask. For the grandchildren :mrgreen: gni gni.. Stickersssssss....

https://www.facebook.com/groups/Allesmaker/ Hier iets geprobeerd, het praat in elk geval nederlands, maar of er UM2 gebruikers tussen zitten weet ik ff niet. Groeten Kees

Cool. I'll give it try!!!

Hi, nice brainstorming here I know what I would like to change on my machine, as we all know (or will find out) the difficulty in modification is, you have to come up with something drastically different or take a design that's fits in more easy. I bought my printer as a hobby, mostly for the Printing, no time nor money for building or buying another one to chop it. But from a 30 year of experience of building, maintaining and designing 'real' world machine's , I have some thoughts. And trough some of them in..... Stay away as far as you can of a scissor lift, not only that it's not linear (as mentioned above), but the most unstable option there is. You definitely would need some kind of axial bearings or rollers on the side to keep from moving around. I would not use more than 2 guides to have as less "schranken" (dutch, perhaps in german it makes some sense as well) as possible. it's the effect of all bearings, guides and Hydr,pneum. cilinders. (Slip/stick effect) the friction or load on one is always different than on the other one. movement in the 2 never the same distance nor time! Moving your printhead around by hand in the centre works in the middle easier than pulling on only one slider block . Using 4 would only double your trouble. It would really be effective, and all Z-Problems solved, when you use 4 (perhaps 3) Z-crews. As stable as it can get, lifting and guidance in one. the only downside is you need 4 pulleys and a timing belt to synchronize them. A less drastic solution and the most easiest one is, put the Z-motor on top. why? Because the construction in the UM1 is a big balancing act. Pulling is always a lot easier than pushing. most people walk around with their briefcase handle on top, instead of pushing the briefcase up . so pulling the z-stage will straight out all play and movement in bearings and threated block, not my idea but Mr newton's. You need a bearing in the bottom. but it could be a printed housing with only one ca.8mm bearingball (marble). Almost forgot one thing, looking at your UM1 now, shows you, threated block and bearings are on one horizontal line. Moving up the threated block as high as possible (30mm?) gives you a triangle, and even with the motor in the standard position, you reduce that balancing problem, because mister newton takes care of the play and movement in the bearings and threated block. Like to read some comments . But it is only I.M.H.O....

I be there, nice to see some forum names in person...

Ja inderdaad, daarom wl ik het ook niet missen, naast de deurder kan bijna niet

Toolbox? What are your experiences with infrared thermometers? I like to calibrate the temperatures of different printers. But first if all you want to know the actual temp. or at least a comparison. I think you can never externally measure the UM sensor. but might be possible to get a measurement from the alu block. regards Kees

Das jammer... Geen snipperuren meer thuis?

Thanks!!! I'll check out your last option! For now we are working with 1 cura setup and 1 profile, a queue of Gcodes on the SDcards, insert the card in the first printer that's done. So they are all stand alone printers. I'm sure the setup and workflow could be more automated and monitored, but for being it a 2 month project, I guess the direct approach fits best. I'm glad with the spare input being on the board. Tonight I have to read into that direction...

Thanks for the answer, but I think you lost me already :(. Might be a 'fuzzy' question for someone who is totally familiar with the electronics and software. I'm able to change my gcodes to switch the heater fans, and change a T0 to a T1 code to use the 2nd heater, but that is it. I can come up with the switch to detect, but I want a way to push the ulticontroller button, go to the tune->changefilament option and push the 'button' again. Tonight I will plane a consult with my 35 years younger nephew, who is more in the arduino like things as I am.

On mine I had to resolder the green connector where you clamp the yellow and red wire in. Was loose on the amplifier print.

In another thread (in dutch) Sander says '"Wij gaan zelf onze officiële heated bed binnen enkele maanden uitbrengen" The official Ultimaker heated bed will be released in a couple of months.

A lot of Nice and Smooth things are created in the place. http://www.michielvanderkley.nl/index.htm . The smooth white boxy New toy should arrive 'next week' the rumour says. :rolleyes:

Hi, I have a question, someone might know an answer, to get me in the right direction, even perhaps a solution. Let's say I have to run 10 Ultimakers1, all with ulticontroller, all with the latest firmware that came with cura 14.01. Using the new Change filament option a few times a day, Big 0.8mm nozzle, 0,4mm layers. In my simple mechanical mind, it might be possible to trigger the change filament function, not only by choice in the ulticontroller menu, but also from a outside switch input signal. Is it possible to make something happening with a outside input? Taking a shit gave me the setup for triggering a switch to detect between reel and feeder if there is filament or not, snapped, or end of roll. connect a horn or lamp, and you've got your warning. that's the simple part But it would awesome if you could trigger the change filament function, I bet that's faster than running to the machine and do it manually. Will that be possible? push in the right direction, very welcome Regards Kees

Haha, check it out next Monday when you visit the ultimaker evening in Tilburg. .

'Happy corner'pictures the header says... Happy workshop pictures allowed as well I hope? My best 'First day at office' ever. Happy me http://projectegg.org/project-egg/

oops, would like to try it, but I do not dare to upgrade, might only work with legal versions :(

Count me in. Do we have to enlist, subscribe, registrieren or 'ons opgeven' somewhere?

A post about painting, printed them a year ago, so won't fit in 'Your latest print'. some scenery for my railroadtrack 1:160. Used normal 'Revell' modelkitpaint.

Heeze? man.... I would have jumped in the car. I hour up one hour down, 1 to hour unbox. Could have been printing yesterday :cool:

It could be easier and less hassle indeed. you have to cut from the top and bottom or add to the sides, to get your image in the centre. Resize the canvas it's called in Photoshop.