Nicolinux

Ok, das ist seltsam. Ohne Nozzle sollte das Material fast ohne Widerstand durchkommen. Ich habe bis jetzt den E3D nur in 1.75 bowden auf Deltas im Einsatz gehabt und da war das eigentlich nie ein Problem. Vielleicht gibt es andere User die hier weiter helfen können. Ansonsten vielleicht ist bei der Montage des Filaments etwas schief gelaufen und die Filamentführung ist nicht gerade oder etwas hat sich verkantet. Wenn das Hotend kalt ist udn die Nozzle nicht dran, dann sollte das Filament absolut ohne Widerstand sich durch bewegen.

Hi, kannst du im "offenen" Zustand, also ohne Bowden dran, das Filament bei z.B. 230° leicht durchschieben? Ansonsten solltest du herausfinden ob die Temperatur auch richtig ausgelesen wird (z.B. mit einem Temperaturfühler am Heizblock oder an der Nozzle). Und hast beim E3D darauf geachtet dass es die Bowden Variante ist? Ich glaube bei der "direct drive" Variante fehlt der PTFE Einsatz was auch erklären würde warum das Filament dann schwer durchgeht. Bei der Bowden Variante wird der Schlauch etwas weiter in das Hotend hineingeschoben.

Salut, désolé, je ne parle pas français (en utilisant Google Translate). Toi peux changer la taille de la buse en Cura comme ceci (voir capture d'écran).

Hi, here are three small howtos about resuming a failed print: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/8901-print-interupted-due-to-power-failure-didnt-have-a-backup-power#reply-74939

Noch eine Idee. Es könnte sein dass das Lüftergehäuse die Nozzle berührt. Das führt auch dazu dass die Temperatur instabil ist da viel mehr geheizt wird.

Hi, hat sich etwas neues ergeben mit dem 4. Drucker? Du könntest den Druckkopf ausbauen und den Temperatursensor entfernen und gegen den temp. Sensor aus einen anderen Drucker austauschen. Somit kannst du feststellen ob es am Temperatursensor liegt. Ansonsten könnte es sein dass die Heizpatrone zu schwach ist. Die neueren UM2 Modelle sollten eine 35W Heizpatrone verbaut haben. Früher waren es 25W. Es gibt jetzt auch den Extrusion Upgrade Kit - dort ist die 35W Heizpatrone dabei. Aber wenn das zu teuer ist, kann die Heizpatrone auch einzeln gekauft werden.

Hi, willkommen im Forum. Der Ultimaker 2+ hat keinen zweiten Extruder und es gibt leider keine offizielle Unterstützung dafür. Beim Ultimaker Original handelt es sich um das Vorgänger-Modell (welches allerdings aktiv gepflegt wird). Das ist quasi die Version die sich eher zum experimentieren eignet. Dafür wird auch ein Dual-Extrusion Kit angeboten (das was du bei Reichelt gefunden hast). Für den Ultimaker 2+ gibt es Dual-Extrusion Kits von Drittanbietern. Damit habe ich aber keine Erfahrung und kann dazu leider nichts sagen. Wofür möchtest du den Drucker einsetzen? Bzw. ist Dual-Extrusion zwingend notwendig?

Hi, I think this is done to improve quality. You can always "lie" about the nozzle size to produce some interesting effects. It doesn't help to understand how things work though I am not using the printing profiles at all and have set the nozzle size to 0.4mm.

'Sup Yo!

@yerffoeg: Take out the glass plate and put it on a plane surface. Then press the each corner down (in turn) with your finger. If the glass plate is bent, you'd see it pretty quickly. The rods could be bent too. This usually happens if the package got handled roughly during shipping or if the printer was pulled by the rods when it was extracted from the box.

Regarding nozzles - it depends With bigger nozzles you can print faster. And you can't take the nozzle size as an indicator of the possible print size. For example, you shouldn't print 0.4mm layers with a 0.4mm nozzle. I don't have an exact formula for this, I do it by instinct. On the other side of the spectrum, you can go pretty low with the layer size, even with a 0.4 nozzle, but you have to take into account that the extruded filament does not only have a height (layer height), but also a width. With smaller nozzles you can print finer features in x/y direction but prints will take forever. Bigger nozzles are great for functional parts which are part of an assembly. They don't need to be pretty and you can print them fast. Also do try printing vases with the "spiralize" option and a 0.8 nozzle - this is way too cool Whatever you do, keep in mind that the feeder can push only so much filament. You can calculate the extruded filament volume: nozzle_size x layer_height x printing_speed (0.8mm * 0.2mm * 100mm/s = 16mm/s^3 - which I'd say is the max the feeder should do without problems).

Oh and have pliers and paper tissues ready. Filament will ooze and you don't want to grab it with your fingers (yet). Keep the nozzle clean - when a print is finished, I always wipe the nozzle with a tissue as long as it is hot (mostly without burning myself ). If you want to create enclosures for your projects, you should design them 0.1mm larger than measured. Sometimes you'd still have to file down some rough parts, but the Ultimaker 2 is one of the most precise consumer printers, so that should be rarely needed. Don't print with too much infill. If you need stability increase the number of shells (like 1.2mm which means three times the 0.4mm nozzle size) instead of going to 50% infill.

Hi, and welcome to the forum. Congrats on the new printer, say good bye to your free time Take a look at the Ultimaker app (for Android and iOS). There are many tutorials and it is pretty handy, especially when you are in front of the printer and want to check something quickly. Other than that, don't go too hardcore on preparations. There are lots of variables that can change and if you try to tackle too many topics at once, you might confuse yourself too much.

Ok, another idea. Did you change your fan shroud? If you get the temp error only sometimes, it could mean that too much air hits the nozzle and the heater can't heat up fast enough triggering the temp error. I am using this fan shroud and it works really well (printed in colorFabb XT). https://www.youmagine.com/designs/fan-mount-um2-olsson-block

Hi, check the connection of your temperature sensor. Maybe you have a loose connection on the board. Also make sure the temperature sensor is inserted fully into the Olsson Block. Did you follow this guide?: https://ultimaker.com/en/manuals/17867-installing-olsson-block

Hi, not sure but I don't think you can do much about it other than rotating the object hoping it would catch more air from the left fan (which is closer to the nozzle).

Holy sh****. Yep sell it as modern art - Cthulhu Edition What's with the right side where it draws the thin filament shell? Maybe the print went well for a while and then it did not stick to the bed and the plastic accumulated at the nozzle. Or the nozzle was partially clogged and the filament curled upwards.

Yep I agree, this would be useful. Maybe it would help if you would compile a list of real life objects where this setting is needed.

I don't know. For vases it works pretty well and I guess that's the main use for spiralize now.

I assume the problem lies within the spiralize feature. It is super nice when it works but the devs might not see it as that important. I guess your idea would work, but since it is a pretty niche feature, it won't be implemented/fixed soon.

Hey no problem. I just wanted to warn people about acting too quickly on assumptions. You've had a few cases where the board fried and you'll agree that it sucks big time. I didn't know that Cohen already confirmed it.

I tried to "lie" about the nozzle size and also created an completely filled object but it still does not work reliably.

Hi, since the print looks good before and after the crack, take a look at the filament to see if it is not tangled. Also check if the filament has the correct diameter or if it deviates at regular intervals on the filament roll.

Hi, die Garantieabwicklung sollte iGo3D übernehmen wenn du den Drucker darüber gekauft hast. Leider weiss ich nicht wie lange das dauert. Aber hast du dir den Temp.sensor an der Nozzle angeschaut? Vielleicht hat es einfach keinen richtigen Kontakt und liefert deswegen falsche Werte. Eine bessere Alternative wäre das neue Extrusion Upgrade Kit. Da wird gleich der ganze Druckkopf ausgetauscht. Ansonsten kannst du den Tempsensor auch bei 3dsolex.com bestellen.

Did you check the PTFE coupler? It is different from the UM2 but could be damaged/deformed. You could check the filament too. If the diameter changes regularly (on every loop), this would explain why it always clogs at the same spot.