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Nicolinux

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Everything posted by Nicolinux

  1. Ok, I have assembled everything and printed a bracelet and an octopus. The bracelet doesn't look better, the octopus only slightly. The z-stage sounds weird now. Maybe I need even more grease... I think I'll replace the bearings and the nut. The question is - where to get them? The bearings are here (although @neotko praised the Mitsumi thingies): https://shop.stoutwind.de/Linearkugellager-mit-Flansch-LMK12LUU
  2. Du meinst der Lüfter der das Objekt kühlt? Es kommt darauf an was du druckst. Kleine Objekte mit vielen Details profitieren davon sehr. Große, einfache geometrische Objekte eher nicht.
  3. Alright checked everything you two mentioned. There is no play in the x/y gantry. The feeder motor is new (part of the Extrusion Upgrade Kit). I have disassembled the z-nut/stage and completely cleaned the threaded rod. I noticed though that the z-nut has quite some play. Is this "normal"? The z-stage without the rod moves fine and without resistance. The bearings are a bit loud but I guess that's fine. After assembling everything again, I remembered this sound. Check out the video and turn the volume up. In the first few seconds when the z-stages moves there is some kind of crackling sound - like there is plastic foil trapped between the threads (which isn't the case...). It was always like this - since I've got the printer. I am printing two test objects to see if something changed after cleaning the threaded rod.
  4. Wie schnell hast du gedruckt? Das wird aus den Screenshots nicht klar. Aber ansonsten kann ich keine Probleme sehen mit den Druckeinstellungen - kenne mich aber auch nicht mit S3D aus. Was genau ist passiert? Warum wurde der Druck unterbrochen? Kam einfach kein Filament mehr raus? Diese dunklen "Blobs" rechts und links im Bild, sehen nach verbrannten Filament aus. Ich nehme an du druckst mit Ultimaker PLA. Prüfe trotzdem den Durchmesser des Filamentes - es sollte bei 2.85mm liegen. Die Lagerung ist auch wichtig, das Filament zieht gerne Wasser an.
  5. Das mit dem G-Code modifier sagt mir nichts. Wo hast du das gelesen? Du kannst mit Plugins in Cura den GCode etwas anpassen und z.B. die Temperatur anpassen, aber das braucht man nicht unbedingt. Die ersten Lagen werden mit der gleichen Temperatur aber langsamer gefahren. Wegen der Temperatur - wie gesagt, wenn du standardmässig mit dem UM2+ druckst, da ist UltiGCode eingestellt. Der Drucker nutzt dann das aktuell auf dem Gerät ausgewählte Material-Profil. Du kannst aber auch während der Aufheizphase oder während des Drucks die Temperatur am Gerät über das "Tune" Menü verändern. Wenn du auf reguläres GCode umstellen willst, dann wähle in Cura im Menü "Machine" -> "Machine Settings" aus. Dann unten links "GCode Flavor". Wenn du das machst, dann kriegst du sowohl eine Eingabe für die Temperatur als auch die Eingabe für den Start/End GCode. Aber ich würde dir das nicht empfehlen. Das macht die Sache komplizierter und du brauchst es am Anfang nicht unbedingt. Erst wenn du z.B. OctoPrint benutzen willst (welcher kein UltiGCode unterstützt), dann macht es Sinn darüber nachzudenken.
  6. So I have a thing with very faint issues - sorry for that Many months ago I printed lots and lots of stretchy bracelets. I gifted most of them and wanted to print a few. Now I am unable to achieve the same print quality like before. The vertical walls are not smooth any more (I think this is related to this post): Now Then I am not only concerned with the inner walls. On the older bracelets the outer wall is completely smooth too (you only see some dents because the model was low poly): However, at first I thought the long belts were a bit too loose. I added this belt tensioner on all four of them but it does not make a difference. I have also tightened all other pulleys a lot but still o difference. Z-screw is greased, heated bed does not wiggle. Pulleys do wobble but they always did... What could this be? Hardware issue? Filament?
  7. Little update. I have installed the Extrusion Upgrade Kit and the issue is much less pronounced. It appears some filament sorts hide it better than others.
  8. Hi Wolfgang, Wilkommen! Der UM2 kennt das Konzept der Material-Profile. Die findest du am Gerät unter "Material" -> "Settings" findest. Wenn du dort ein Material auswählst (mit dem Rad runter scrollen aber nicht drücken), dann steht in der untersten Zeile welche Temperatur eingestellt ist. Normallerweise wird im Slicer Cura auch die Temperatur eingegeben. Daraus wird .gcode erzeugt welches der Drucker druckt. Das ist reguläres "Marlin GCode". Ultimaker verwendet den UltiGCode. Hier werden ein paar Parameter wie Temperatur, Lüfterdrehzahl, Heizbetttemperatur usw. in den Profilen gespeichert und müssen nicht in Cura eingestellt werden. Das hat den Vorteil dass du eine .gcode Datei mit unterschiedlichen Filamentarten drucken kannst. Du kannst aber auch reguläres Marlin GCode verwenden - der UM2 beherrscht das auch.
  9. I'd say to not get hung up on the nozzle tolerance. The UM2 prints very well. The 0.35 nozzle setting is more like a safety setting in case some nozzles are not perfect. I guess it optimizes the last 5% print quality so that's not a big issue right? And since you don't know how perfect E3D nozzles are (or where they are manufactured), maybe 0.05mm tolerance is standard...
  10. Hi, ich würde raten dass du entweder einen Kabelbruch hast oder am Board der Stecker nicht mehr richtig darauf steckt.
  11. Hey Mike, it doesn't matter that there is only a mess, just snap a picture of it. Better yet, start a print just before the printer starts to extrude filament, shoot a short video clip for about 30-40 seconds. The way the filament comes out and the sounds the printer produces will help us identify the problem. Also check the filament diameter. If it has more than 3mm than it will be problematic.
  12. Hi Mike, and welcome to the forum. Could you please post a photo? It is hard otherwise to diagnose the problem. And if possible do state your print settings (slicing with Cura I guess).
  13. Not sure, I haven't used this feature. But you can queue as many instances of the plugin as you like so you can make the printer stop at different heights/layers. I _think_ I saw an option to change the filament while the printer is paused (would make sense). Or if you have Robert's feeder, you can open it and change the filament yourself. The nozzle remains hot all the time (so careful and don't pause for too long).
  14. You can do this in Cura. Switch to expert settings (Menu -> Expert -> Switch to full settings). Then at the top, click on the Plugins tab. There you can select Pause at Height and click on the arrow down button underneath the plugin list. The plugin is then added and you can tell it a what height (or layer number) to pause. You can get the layer number when you slice the model and then switch the view mode (button at the top right) and select Layers.
  15. The interface asked me to drag and drop images and documents at once and so I did. Apparently it chose the order automatically.
  16. Hi, I'd like to change the order of images and documents (document should be listed last). Any idea how to do it? Right now the document comes first and the first thing a users sees is the .stl preview which sucks a bit. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/the-wedge
  17. After endless minutes of careful fun-gineering, I present you The Wedge! Kill your filament, not your finger! [print=3143][/print]
  18. Version 1.0

    2,316 downloads

    Kill your filament, not your finger. Print with two shells and 100% infill.
  19. Yes please, that would be very welcome. I thought I'd understand the nozzle size extrusion correlation thingy but now I am like:
  20. Hey Simon, Welcome to the forum. Yes the nozzle does fit. Since the UM2+ uses the Olsson Block by default, it can accommodate nozzles from E3D. I didn't try the hardened one, but a 0.4 nozzle fits and I don't think they changed the nozzle geometry just for the hardened one.
  21. No there is another Beta version that's not public yet. I don't know when it will be released though.
  22. Very nice lil project. What kind of Filament did you use? PLA or ABS?
  23. Hey Alberto, with the latest stable Cura version (15.04.4) it is not possible to print the object as wireframe. But with the latest beta version (wich is in internal testing phase right now), this is possible. So I guess it won't take long and you will be able to print the wireframe.
  24. https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software
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