Dim3nsioneer

That's a sign of too high current. Ok, maybe it's time for an off-power test. If you switch the printer off and slowly turn the extruder wheel, how does it feel? Smooth or very rough as if something is broken inside? edit: make sure you're turning the driver potmeter into the correct direction! Otherwise you can destroy it quite easily!

http://www.trespa.com/ But I don't expect it to be cheap as it is also used in Switzerland.. :eek: http://www.propanel.ch/produkte/trespa-vollkernplatten/

Very nice work indeed foehnsturm. :-P Imagine what kind of nice jewellery one can do with a dual extruder... :cool: So 3D printing has arrived at the Bronze Age. What's next to come? Iron? Then Steel? Then Aluminium? Then Silicon? :mrgreen: @colorfabb: Can you say anything about the copper to tin ratio? Normal bronze would consist of 60 or more percent copper.

Sorry, I was on the smartphone before and couldn't post the link; here it is: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Electronics_build_guide

Check the ekectronics assembly guide on the Ultimaker Wiki. On the bottom you find instructions about adjusting the stepper current. If you are lucky then the driver is still ok.

Hi Alex First, welcome to the Ultimaker forum. Have some fun here and check out if an Ultimaker printer would be a fine addition to your delta tower. The usual way is to lower temperature for the last layers where the print speed is small and make sure the fan(s) is/are at full throttle to cool the deposited material. With XT it's somewhat more tricky as it will change transparency when lowering the temperature. I would maybe try it with 220°C for layers with print speed below 25mm/s. If you use Cura, you might try the 'cool head lift' feature.

For printing without a heated bed I had good results with Kapton tape. PLA sticks quite well to it if the bed is levelled nicely and if the first layer is printed hot enough. Kapton tape is available 200mm wide, so you need just one piece. And it lasts much longer than blue tape. However, as gr5 pointed out by setting it first priority, brim is a must on an unheated bed.

Les avantages du filament DiamondAge sont plutôt des resultats très biens indépendant de la temperature. Ça permet de produire des structure filigrane aussi que des objets avec grandes surfaces et bonne stabilité. Il n'est pas filant. E il y a des couleurs très jolie. DiamondAge Plastics offre des bobine avec et sans galet. Une bobine à 100m sans galet serais 50-55 Fr. sans transport en Suisse. Une bobine avec galet serait plus ou moins +30% (mais c'est un peu absurde de transporter plus de poids que nécessaire par une distance si grande). Mais si tu veux seulement testé le filament, c'est aussi possible d'avoir un échantillon pour une petite participation aux fraix. Est-ce que tu es affilié au FabLab à Neuchâtel?

Die Wellen sind von MISUMI.

Wenn man ein schönes Plätzchen unter dem Drucker und einen sauberen Boden hat, geht auf den Boden legen recht gut. Ansonsten gibt's z.B. von Woofy einen https://www.youmagine.com/designs/spool-holder-for-loose-filament.

So, es scheint ja doch ein gewisses Interesse da zu sein. Ich würde nach aktueller Planung die Umfrage noch bis diesen Mittwoch (21.5.14) 18 Uhr laufen lassen und dann die konkrete Anfrage bei DiamondAge platzieren. Sobald die Offerte vorliegt, würde ich Euch einzeln wegen der Abwicklung per PM kontaktieren. Ist das für alle ok? Ansonsten einfach bitte melden...

Hallo SwissWalter Da Du explizit die Spulen erwähnt hast, nehme ich an, dass Rollen für Dich keine Option sind, oder?

Who volunteers to create a 3D model of the pink unicorn?

Very unusual that it's not Daid himself leaking the news...! ;-)

Chers amis de la Suisse romande Tout d'abord je m'excuse pour mon terrible français. Mais une traduction par Google serais peut-être encore plus mal... Quelques de vous ont testé des matériaux differentes, je pense, comme je l'ais fait. Il y a quelques PLA qui sont bons ou très bons. Moi, je suis très convaincu de http://diamondage.co.nz/PLA qui vient de la Nouvelle-Zélande. Ce matériau est aussi connu par le nom 'Printbl' aux etats-unis. Mais que la Nouvelle-Zélande n'est pas très proche, commander ce matériau n'est pas bon-marché pour des individuelles. Donc je veux vous demander si quelqun est interessé de participer à une commande collective. Il y a déjà des gens de la Suisse allémanique qui sont interessés. Vous trouver plus de détails http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5712-pla-von-diamondage-plastics-sammelbestellung-schweiz/ (en allemand, je suis désolé... :huh: ).

Sorry for highjacking the topic a bit... Daid, you recently fixed the bug where an G92 led to a shifted display of the uppermost layers in layer view. It seems that there are also other gcodes causing a similar effect: I found that this one was caused by an M200...

Hallo Skodiar Danke fürs Interesse. Kurze Rückfrage: 1kg gibt es nur auf Spulen; die Rollen sind 100m, was in etwa gut 800g entspricht. Möchtest Du explizit die 1kg-Spulen oder wäre für Dich die 100m-Rolle auch eine Option? Bei der Rolle transportiert man halt nur das Filament selbst durch die Welt während bei der Spule noch Totgewicht von der Spule selbst (besteht aus Kunststoff-Kern und Karton) dazukommt. Den Kilopreis oben habe ich von Rollen ausgehend berechnet (es war wohl etwas irreführend einen Kilopreis für 100m-Rollen auszurechnen...).

Yes, you have to uncomment the FW retract. I just changed the default values to the values I usually use for retraction. But you have also to specify the filament diameter by an M200 in the start.gcode.

I just found some other minor bug with the volumetric RepRap flavour: It seems that the filament calculation still relies on the distance calculation instead of volume calculation (you get a number about three times as large).

@illuminarti: There is only one way to speed things up. Just ask a small question... :mrgreen:

@PrintedSolid: It's exactly as Jonny wrote: I have a dishwasher from a Swiss manufacturer where the temperature is specified for each program you can run. The bottom rack usually sees a temperature at least 10 degree higher than the top rack.

Dishwasher treatment: 1. Open dishwasher 2. Put your xt part into the dishwasher 3. close dishwasher 4. Run dishwasher :-P Seriously: I tried it once at 55°C and it came out exactly the same as it was put in. You certainly have to go higher. I use the same fan settings as for PLA. afaik there are no special fumes from xt.

I should have made the picture smaller... You're right. There is underextrusion there. It's visible from 8mm^3/s on as I wrote. It's caused by the letters. There, the printer slows down extremely and after the letters, the UM1 accelerates again. And we all know what happens with the extrusion when an UM1 accelerates quickly: underextrusion. The remarkable thing is that it recovers before the circle at that layer height is completed. The layers at 15mm^3/s without letters don't show the effect. However, they are thinner (as illuminarti mentioned); I measured them to be only 0.35mm thick.

Most materials which are thermoconducting are also electroconductive. And the other way round. A non-electroconductive usually has a bad thermal conductivity (there are a few exceptions like diamond... ). I don't know right now what happens with the thermal resistance if a polymer material is highly doped with metal particles (or carbon fibres). In the case of the metal particles this could maybe be tested with the new Colorfabb BronzeFill. However, I would not expect a good thermal conductivity as the bronze particles are embedded in a polymer matrix (isolated islands). IMHO there are two possibilities: traditional (subtractive) methods with a metal block or very expensive SLM with metal.

I found a work-around by putting a G11 into the start.gcode, quite at the beginning. This turns the G11 after the Skirt-comment useless as the retracted-variable in Marlin is already set to false. The priming is provoked by a G10 at the end of a previously executed GCODE which also originates from Cura and is not part of the end.gcode.