Dim3nsioneer

The problems do actually more than double up. In addition of the problems with two extruder you get the issues with swapping extruders. I'm currently working on the UM1 dual extruder to get things working with volumetric extrusion and firmware retraction without getting a complete mess. So I can imagine what kind of problems Ultimaker is working on for the UM2 dual extrusion.

Woofy, these thoughts of yours are very interesting. I strongly support them in a sense that such an event should be something everyone profits of. With everyone I mean not only a relative small group (about one percent of all the forum users voted so far) of this foruj but maybe also noobs who could go there and learn from more experienced users directly. And of course also Ultimaker B.V. So in addition to the activities you mentioned I think some workshops might be a good idea. IMHO it should be something like an extended Ulti-evening. I would rather vote for a later date to make sure Ultimaker could contribute significantly to this event. Such an event including the manufacturer would also be a strong signal to competitors.

Not everybody. Just you...

Here you are: I made it in blender, starting from a design on Thingiverse...

yep. it is... I just looked at all-at-once...

What's wrong with it? I get reasonable results with RC3 if you mean this one...

I wonder if covering the unused area with something thermally isolating might help. I think the effect is caused by rising hot air from the bed slowing down the cooling of the deposited material. What fan speed did you use? (And why does your temperature sensor show higher temperature? :blink: )

Hey guys, let's be fair. I think Daid is taking reported bugs quite seriously. The combing lines seem to be a major issue. However, it's quite easy to get rid of them from second layer on. Just disable combing in the expert settings. If this is still not enough, i.e. if the hotend is still oozing, you can use the hop feature. Try something like 0.2mm for the hop. However, there is indeed a brim-combing-bug on the first layer (it's still in 14.05RC3), i.e. while printing a brim, no retraction is performed. @Daid: Can you please fix this for the next version? :unsure: About the blobs: You can reduce them by setting correct parameters such as temperature or filament diameter. Another influence is the material you use. Some materials tend to much bigger blobs than others (I don't want to name them here). Again, there is room for improvement also with this issue. There is another thread about this topic where people made comparisons between Cura 14.03 and 14.01. I can confirm their findings while having these issues on a much lower level. I could imagine that Daid is also working on this. However, it might be a bit harder to find a good solution for this issue as there were good reasons to make the chances which produce the issue. The situation became better already from 14.03 to the RCs. Maybe Daid can give some more details about the effect and why it is maybe not easy to fix the issue? (or provide a link if I missed this information in another thread)

It did not work at all or just due to the values you used?

Ok. As you said, not completely as it should be. I think you might be printing too hot. What temperature do you use? There are pieces of burnt PLA visible. Is the hotend temperature stable or does it fluctuate? Try a lower temperature and maybe also a lower print speed, e.g. 210°C and 50mm/s are usually a good match. That's about the quality. Now about the robot leaning forward. It seems as if something is continously slipping or moving. That's actually a bit unusual. For a start, check all the pulleys and their grub screws respectively, if they are tight and do not slip. You can use a marker for that. What about the belt tension? The short belts should be quite tight while the long belts should be tightened reasonably. Check http://www.frequency.com/video/ultimaker-proper-belt-tension/30509804 for the proper belt tension. Do you use the default firmware (installed with Cura) or have you compiled a custom firmware?

Finally I can watch my UM not-anymore-completely-Original printing from wherever I want. Thanks to this camera mount for a D-LINK DCS93xL. It's printed in DiamondAge cherry red.

First things first: welcome to the forum! :-P You can edit your post for including the pictures. Before we have not seen the mess, we cannot laugh - uhm - I mean, we cannot really tell you what's wrong... Don't worry. The first print of my UM Original was also not very good. However, I trained my dragon...

Just to make sure: You actually saw it printing, not only the results, right? For all the examples you mentioned?

Kurze Zwischeninformation: Die Anfrage wurde bei DiamondAge Solutions platziert. Im Moment läuft gerade die Suche nach der schlauesten Transportvariante... :huh: Keine Angst, es wird nicht Seefracht werden...

Check the z hop setting in the expert settings. If you define a non-zero value there and disable combing, then Cura makes your printer lowering the bed for travels and you should not get these lines.

@DiscoStu:There is something you may improve... if a cutoff is used, the layer number is not adjusted...

It's a typo. Should be 238°C. You may check the taulman website...

Leider hänge ich gerade nicht am Drucker, kann also den Druckdialog nicht öffnen zum Nachschauen. Hast Du einen Ulticontroller? Falls ja, dann geht es am einfachsten über Control->Temperature->Fan speed.

Come on, Lord of the Rings... there is (the) one you have not yet made... call your printer 'Mount Doom' and hit print... :cool:

The price depends on the product you buy. There are cheap crossflow fans, even with AC motor (cheaper but not as efficient as modern brushless dc motors). Then there are the other products where you get additional functuality such as a pwm line for setting the speed, tacho signal, alarm signal etc. The blade geometry of cross-flow fans is usually not very high-sophisticated compared to the blade geometry of e.g. axial or radial fans nowadays. So, I think no CFD is needed. But actual printing of the blades might be quite tricky as they are long and curved.

What kind of maintenance are you referring to? Tightening screws from time to time or something else?

Congratulations! Let the bed cool down and it most probably just pops off if temperature falls below 30 degree. Don't try to take it away with brute force while the bed is still quite warm; there are users here in the forum who damaged the glass surface this way I think...

Wenn Du den UM1 über USB verbunden hast, dann kannst Du das Druck-Fenster von Cura benutzen. Dazu musst Du aber unter den Preferences bei Printing Window Type 'Pronterface' auswählen. Dann hast Du im Druck-Fenster ein Terminalblock, wo Du einzelne gcodes eingeben kannst.

Der gcode für den Lüfter ist M106 Sx wobei x zwischen 0 (aus) und 255 (voll) ist. Bei voller Stufe müsstest Du etwa 19V auf der Lüfterleitung haben.

Third paragraph: