Dim3nsioneer

What do the specs of the silicone heater say about the power it can sustain?

I take the Guinness, you can keep the calories! Cheers! :cool:

Das hängt von ziemlich vielen Faktoren ab. Ich zähle mal ein paar davon auf. Ist aber nicht dazu gedacht, Antworten zu generieren! - Wie gross ist der Backlash Deiner Maschine? Müsste im Bereich von 0.05mm sein, sonst wird's schwierig. - In welche Richtung soll die Öffnung während des Drucks schauen? Die Variante Öffnung an der Seitenwand und eine Kante des Dreiecks oben horizontal kannst Du z.B. getrost vergessen. - Ist die Öffnung oben auf einer Fläche, musst Du mit Ausprobieren den Durchmesser so setzten, dass das Resultat Deinen Wünschen entspricht (im absoluten Minimum 0.2mm pro Radius mehr). - Temperatur: Soetwas muss so kalt wie möglich gedruckt werden, ansonsten ist das Loch zu. - Wie gross ist die Öffnung Deiner Druckdüse? 0.4mm (Standard) dürfte etwas grob sein. -... Alles in Allem klingt das Modell danach mit der SLA-Methode gedruckt zu werden. FFF ist da extrem schwierig. Ich hatte vor Kurzem ein Teil mit einer vertikalen Bohrung mit 1mm Durchmesser. Mit etwas Nachbearbeitung ging sich das gerade noch so aus...

I recently printed something slightly similar and succeeded by putting the part on its tail. I added some one line thick perpendicular support sheets to the lower few centimeters and used a brim. The support was easy to break off. My object was about 15cm in height.

There goes our full size model of the Death Star... :sad: More seriously: On that scope, what was the reason that there is no Win64 version?

It also helps if the bed is really flat and the 6/8mm rods are really straight. I had to replace the original ones to come to this level.

YellowFail... :sad:

What about standard mail? I recently got many things from UK via standard mail. Nothing got lost and it was relatively quick. And I think to remember that I never had to pay a ridiculous amount. It's maybe worth checking if you haven't already.

Quite well thought, gr5...

Where do you ship from?

You let him go to Makerbot-Land... !?! :eek:

Yes, I used your cardboard method (thanks!) in such a way that the threaded bar is as vertically as possible and does not see major forces during one rotation. So the Oldham coupling has to deal with just with an excentricity of a few tenths of a millimeter. But today I received a ball screw I ordered for replacing the threaded bar. I will have to design a connecting piece between the z stage frame and the ball head. This piece will be fixed to the z stage with no play. However, I will still use the Oldham coupling.

I think the irregularities are the result of pressure fluctuations in the hotend. This can have many origins. It could be the additional resistance in the Bowden tube due to the larger diameter. It could be imhomogeneities in the filament itself (e.g. not completely homogeneous admixture of the color master batch). Or larger fluctuations of the filament diameter. Sometimes such fluctuations can be levelled out by increasing the print temperature. One question: Were the two models sliced with the same version of Cura?

Ja, die Bestellung ist abgewickelt. Es darf hier aber gerne weiteres Interesse gepostet werden. Wer also keine Eile hat und einfach mal Bedarf anmelden möchte, ist herzlich willkommen. Soll aber noch keine Verpflichtung zur Abnahme sein. Erst bei einer konkreten neuen Bestellung wäre ein Abnahme-Statement erforderlich (d.h. ich würde auf jeden Fall nochmals nachfragen). Der Zeitpunkt ist natürlich schwierig vorauszusagen, aber ich denke kaum gleich nächste Woche; vielleicht so in einem Monat?

Thanks, Sander, for the news. Dangerous jobs you have where inboxes explode... and sometimes even the mood of people in the forum...

Does anyone know if Daid is on holiday? Haven't read anything from him for the last days...

Hi ssonyc I agree on your proposal. Maybe one of the moderators could initiate a such section here in the forum? B) btw: Where in Switzerland are you located? If you are in the area of Zurich, you may be interested in the Ultimaker event taking place at the FabLab Zurich on the 14th this month... :-P

3 points define a plane. 4 is one too much. About the flex coupling for the z axis: I once used one too. But then I realised that the z position is never properly defined with a flex coupling. In the meantime I switched to an Oldham coupling and added quite some weight to the z stage.

Addon information about Trespa: I finally had contact with the company cutting Trespa. But they do it by waterjet cutting, not by laser cutting. The reasons are basically the same as Jonny just mentioned for PC. On top of that the company expects Trespa to burn.

You may try the first fix horrible option in the expert settings with 0.4mm. This worked for me.

not yet...

It's not just that simple... Every time the extruder is changed, it enables the motor of the new extruder and disables the motor of the old extruder. You never have the inactive stepper motor enabled again. But it's only the stepper! There is no change for the heating of the hotend.

I also have these lines on my UM1. I never could get rid of them completely. However, I managed to lessen them by using an Oldham coupling instead of the standard z coupling. It's partially a question of a good alignment of the threaded bar with the motor axis.

Ok, it's merged to ErikZalm/Marlin...

Daid will certainly give you a more detailed answer. AFAIK, shifting the infill is not possible. However, for your application, I recommend you use 100% infill, then you should not have any problem with inbalances as everything is filled equally.