Dim3nsioneer

Nope, not yet. Maybe I'll do this tomorrow. I first have to get the most present Marlin version and incorporate my changes...

IMHO it is not necessary that the unused feeder motor is active. I developed a switch-off-unused-feeder-motor-option for Marlin which works absolutely fine on my dual extruder Ultimaker Original. I'll see it finds its way into standard Marlin.

Hmmm... I don't know about today's Celeron processors but some time ago they were just a nightmare. I think slicing requires some computing power. I would go for an i7 or at least an i5... Daid certainly knows more about minimum requirements...

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3297-30mm-pla-vs-285mm-pla/ http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5101-whats-the-deal-with-285mm-vs-3mm/ http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3893-3mm-vs-285mm-filament/ This forum definitively lacks of a good search function!

Just from a very outside view (as I do not have an UM2), you may try to make a mark with a pen on each pulley and an according mark on the rod, print something and check if the marks still correspond after the print has been shifted (just abort the print).

Something is slipping on one axis. Most probably it's a pulley which got loose.

If the diameter is constant within 0.05mm then it shouldn't be a problem. I use some 2.93-2.96 filament in my UM1 without getting it stuck in the Bowden tube. But the tube has to be clean.

IMHO, as long as a company has serious troubles to produce enough of a product (lead time up to 8 weeks!) it doesn't make much sense to try selling even more (which then can't be delivered).

Das Design von Owen funktioniert bei mir gut.

All bores printed with an FFF-printer come out smaller than in the model due to the shrink of the plastic when cooling down. You have to adjust the model for this shrink (as it is also done in e.g. injection moulding). How much you have to adjust depends on the type of plastic you're printing and the settings like e.g. print temperature. I suggest the try and error method for that.

PLA ist da recht ungeeignet. Normalerweise kommt der Fanduct ja relativ nahe an die Aluminium-Heizkörper heran. Da hilft meiner bescheidenen Meinung nach nur eine gute thermische Isolation. Ich habe meinen Fanduct aus XT gedruckt (Glastemperatur 75°C) und gegenüber den Hotends mit Keramik-Isolationsstreifen abgetrennt.

I would say this is about the same situation as for 0 degree, just with a speed reduced by the square root of two. To avoid hitting the edge, one would have to use z movements in addition.

Is it ok for the pull request to ErikZalm/Marlin? Or would you prefer to have it to Ultimaker/Marlin?

Die GT2-Riemen und -Pulleys bieten eine höhere Positioniergenauigkeit als die Standard MXL-Riemen und -Pulleys.

It seems not to affect volumetric RepRap flavor. Every G10 S1 is followed by a G11. However, G10 S1 is not (yet) implemented in Marlin. I actually have some code working for that purpose. @Daid: The code lacks of the proper LCD menu items for the swap retraction length. After having implemented them, I may issue a pull request for this code, if you like. However, I don't want to hurry ahead of your work. But there are some other bugs and possible improvements for the dual extrusion as e.g. mentioned in the submitted issues #100 and #101 on Github for the CuraEngine. Furthermore, having the ooze shield drawn twice per layer results in a blob mess for the second material on my UM1. Thus, I'm currently working on removing the second ooze shield pass with a plugin. @DiscoStu: I once had 16mm retraction length for the extruder swap and it resulted in a clog. I then switched to 13mm which never caused me any problems.

You may also check if you have melted material on the outside of the nozzle. Check also below the cover of the print head.

Obviously the y stepper driver is set to a higher current compared to the x stepper driver. You may reduce the current. Please check the http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Electronics_build_guide. Especially make sure, you don't turn the potmeter on the driver pcb into the wrong direction; you could destroy the driver with a too high current. And don't run the UM1 electronics longer than 30s without the cooling fan. Although I switched my UM1 to direct drive some time ago (and therefore have reduced mechanical resistance in the axes), I think it should be possible to run the motors with the standard setup (i.e. including the short belts) with a current that still allows you to touch the motor.

Grundsätzlich ja, mit einer Ausnahme: Wenn die Pulleys unrund sein sollten, d.h., wenn die Bohrung nicht konzentrisch sein sollte, dann sollten die Pulleys so eingebaut werden, dass die Ekzentrizität im Gleichtakt läuft. Sonst hast Du abwechslungsweise Stellen, wo die Achse sehr gut läuft und v.a. andere, wo sie klemmt. Bei mir wich die Achse der UM-Pulleys bis zu 3/10 von der Mitte ab. Inzwischen sind sie allerdings zu Gunsten von GT2-Pulleys ausser Dienst gesetzt worden.

Zu 2: Meiner bescheidenen Meinung nach sind die schwarzen Distanzhalter auf der einen Seite zu lang. Ich habe mir mehrere kürzere Varianten ausgedruckt und dann die passenste genommen. Das eliminiert mal einen Teil der Schiefe. Zum anderen habe ich mit FederSCHEIBEN (nicht Federringe) für eine ausgeglichenere Anordnung der drei horizontalen Holzteile gesorgt.

@braddock: Another guy who I wouldn't like to meet in a dark corner... although he might not be very intelligent as the brain size is quite limited. But he's great! Do you usually have a story in mind when designing characters? A story that would come to my mind about this guy would have something to do with having a stiff neck (as he obviously cannot have a bad hair day)...

Bis jetzt noch nicht. Aber die Änderungen sind ziemlich klein; eigentlich nur die Einpassung für die Mutter von M3 auf M4 erweitern... Anspruchsvoller ist da ev. das Sourcen der Kugelspannschrauben; in der Schweiz gibt es die auf jeden Fall nicht an jeder Ecke.

Davon kann man sich auch eine angepasste Version basteln, da das OpenSCAD-File dabei ist. Ich habe mir z.B. eine M4-Version gemacht, die mit einer Kugelspannschraube versehen ist. Vorteil: Nur eine Punktauflage, die sich erst noch bewegen kann, wenn Schraube und Welle nicht absolut konzentrisch sein sollten. Die Erfahrungen damit sind bisher sehr gut.

Blender can. But not automatically, you have to edit the settings.

Could someone please take a picture of Daid's face at the moment he sees the Makerbot...

The original fan duct is ok, I used it for quite some time. However, it blows the air quite vertically and is suboptimal in terms of a clever air flow (offers too much resistance). I use http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32491 (printed in XT with some ceramic tape for thermal isolation to the hotends) which works quite well with a dual extruder. It has a wide opening and directs the air flow exactly to where it is needed. I could e.g. significantly improve the quality of the right ear of the Ultimaker robot.