Dim3nsioneer

No coffee for me today. I switched to tea as the thermometer said 38°C when I took my temperature this morning and I feel like filament squeezed through a 0.4mm nozzle... :sad:

Your picture is a very good example. :cool: Two-component injection moulding is used for heavy duty applications as e.g. handles. Two glued parts would fall apart much too fast. The cross-linking between the two materials makes the interface extremely strong, they partially flow into each others (timing of the second component is very important!). If you want to achieve similar cross-linking effects with 3d printing, you probably have to use a rather advanced slicing software. There are now first approaches to make the slicing software packages more intelligent (no offense, Daid!). If you haven't yet read about them, check for 'Markforged' or 'Topolabs' (if you do so, imagine what these two products combined could achieve!).

The end switch is properly fixed and cannot move?

What you mean, they can't? :unsure: What about two-component injection moulding...? B)

Thanks, I know the thread...I participated in... (However, I think the topic over there is not closed yet; I can't see any origin on which everybody agrees; but it's a bit off-topic here... :unsure: )

You could write the CoolHeadLift plugin which is activated at a certain height or layer number...

Just fry the egg and the chicken together in a pan... :wink: What about the cool head lift feature? It gives you a short contact time but enough layer time...

Dual extrusion is very high up in the list at UM since Makerbot didn't show a dual extruder for their newest generation of printers. As Nicolinux pointed out, dual extrusion on the UM Original is still experimental. But it works. There are very nice results to be found here in the forum. 'Experimental' means you have to tweak it a bit until the results are good; it's not working extremely well out of the box.

Should'nt the hop feature solve this problem? The head hits if the support struts are curled on the top surface due to temperature, right?

Etwas kurz geraten, ein richtiger Ultimaker-Zwerg. :huh: Es gibt zwei mögliche Ursachen. Die erste sieht man auf der Elektronik (ich hoffe, gr5 nimmt mir die 'Entlehnung' des Bildes nicht übel...) Der Jumper, der im Bild umrandet ist, bzw. der ganz rechte der drei, darf nicht geschlossen sein. Sonst führt nämlich der z-Motor 1/16-Schritte statt 1/8-Schritte aus, was alles auf die Hälfte skaliert. Die zweite Möglichkeit ist, dass eine falsche Anzahl Schritte pro mm für die z-Achse definiert ist. Die richtige Zahl ist 8/3*200 und kann entweder über den Ulticontroller eingegeben werden oder über den Befehl M92 (dazu gibt's http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Marlin Info)

@Didier Klein: I was partially wrong in my last post above (I corrected it). Cura 13.11.2 takes the start.gcode and end.gcode from profile.ini. However, if you load settings from a gcode file into Cura, it overwrites the default start and end gcode in profile.ini. This doesn't matter as long as you use UltiGCode. Switching to reprap flavour suddenly let this part of the imported profile appear. That's how you got this start.gcode. Actually I know which gcode file it comes from. So please just copy Robert's start.gcode and don't be confused... EDIT: How many lines did your brim consist of? Just add some more...I usually take up to 15 lines.

You're right. With Cura 13.11.2 you get this start.gcode. Don't use it. It's completely wrong. Please use the start.gcode and end.gocde stated by Robert (which is from 14.03 I guess).

I don't know how and where you get the first start.gcode, but it's not intended to be used on an UM2. It's actually not even intended to be displayed here... :(

I'm afraid you probably won't get Cura to show this gcode. I was just able to reconstruct the issue with a slic3r generated gcode. In Cura 14.01 there was some not very reasonable display of one layer. I guess Daid supressed this nonsense in 14.03+. If a Cura generated gcode file is loaded in 14.03, the different shells and infills are displayed as normal in layer view. Thus, Cura reads its own comments in the gcode. It's not very surprising that it fails to load a gcode produced by a different software due to the lack of these comments. For the time being only Daid might actually be able to help you... :huh: However, if you want to have a look at a gcode file layer by layer, I can recommend to you the viewer at http://gcode.ws.

And the gcode file has a reasonable content?

You won't see anything in the normal view, also not with GCODE generated by Cura (if the gcode file is loaded and not the stl). You have to switch to the layer view... :-P

Reload STLs is supposed to be F5...

It's the same as with 7" and 10" tablets. You can carry the 10" tablet everywhere. However, a 7" tablet is more comfortable to transport... I didn't say carrying an UM1 is not possible. I know there is an english guy who can even carry a small car on his head...

It's better for transport...

Interesting. The distance between heater block and the struts of the fan duct seems to be quite small. Have you taken any measures to avoid the melting of the the struts (I guess you used XT?)?

Im Bastelshop gibt's die vermutlich auch unter dem Namen Chenilledraht... aber der Tipp ist wirklich gut, die prima Reinigungswirkung kann ich nur bestätigen...!

The most important thing: DON'T PANIC! :mrgreen: It's quite unlikely it starts really mid print as long as you don't change anything on the print settings. If you really see the tip of the nozzle colliding with e.g. warped printed parts you can reduce the print speed directly in the LCD menu until things level out. There are two things you can do in general if you see that too much filament is printed. You can carefully reduce the temperature a bit (maximum 5 degree) OR equally careful reduce the flow directly on the printer. After a change wait some time (e.g. 20s) until the material flow is in a new balance. This is also something you may try with a smaller print first. Important is that you give the printer some time to react on your changes. Reaction does not occur immediately.

The first layer looks much better know. Actually, you have a slight overextrusion now, as I predicted it before. It's nothing you really have to worry about unless the nozzle rumbles well audibly across a previous layer. You may try to find optimum settings for which the PLA is not pushed up outside the nozzle tip. But don't do this during a 'real' print... I hope, you will soon hold your first successful large print in your hands...

Absolutely! I would be client no. 2!!! :cool:

It somehow looks familiar. These are Cura's famous turning points, aren't they? I have a cylindrical print which looks very much the same. Two things are different for this print of mine compared to other prints I made: it has 0.2mm layers (I usually do 0.1mm) and it is made from Colorfabb filament from last year (with which any kind of blobs are normal on my printer if not printed extremely close to underextrusion). It might help to increase the x/y-jerk and the x/y acceleration a bit (if possible) as the problem is obviously filament which is too fluid combined with a too slow direction change.