Dim3nsioneer

It's a question of cooling. With an UM1 and ONE fan (assuming default position on the left of the print head), you have to orientate the bridge along the y axis to get reasonable results. I also did http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3406-experiments-on-bridging/page-2&do=findComment&comment=26164 a while ago, but only with PLA.

Which you actually should do if you're printing ABS...

Uhhmmm... the PICTURE... I guess it depends on the amount of deformation and if you require a certain thickness of the print after deformation.

Interestingly, they even ship the standard European power chord if you select 'none', at least it was the case when I got my UM1 kit (I ordered it without because they do not provide the best of all power plugs - the Swiss power plug ).

gr5, you caught my thought quite well. However, the link you provided doesn't seem to fit the topic? :???:

There is an option in gcode.ws with which you can make the viewer estimating the line thickness. With this option switched off (default setting), gcode.ws uses a standard line with which does not represent the printed line width. However, I would not trust the line with of a viewer anyway. If 50% infill closes the gaps in the real print, you may have a mis-setting in the filament thickness and, as a result of this, an overextrusion. In this case, check the exact filament diameter and set it accordingly.

Maybe it's easier to go the other way round? Applying (the inverse of) a function to the model (model transformation), slice it normally and applying the same function to the toolpath?

Schrittverluste hat man bei zuwenig Strom. Bei zuviel Strom fangen die Motoren allerdings auch an zu stottern. Aber wenn es genügend zu viel Strom ist, werden sie bzw. der Schrittmotortreiber es nicht mehr los (sprich die Treiber sind gut mit Überstrom zu töten; eigene Erfahrung... :sad: ) Schau Dir dazu unbedingt den Electronics Build Guide an!

There are a few posts about Topolabs already here in the forum (in case you haven't seen them): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5252-topolabs-nonplanar-fdm-fff-toolpaths-for-improved-desktop-3d-printing-quality/ http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5203-training-required/&do=findComment&comment=46155 I think it's a really nice idea but it makes a quite pointed nozzle necessary. A standard UM nozzle can be used as well but will have its limitation with steeper slopes. One has to keep in mind that o print an object this way does not make it necessarily stronger. E.g. one of the weakest interfaces of a 3D print is the one between outer shell and infill (even if you have a good overlap). If you manage to make the slicer engine defining layers where these interfaces are slightly shifted from layer to layer, you can increase strength significantly. But I'm pretty sure some 3D printer manufacturers might go into those directions. I'm looking forward to what Daid is going to do with such ideas in Cura's future...

Lösung für aussen: Düse mit 'ner alten Socke o.ä. im heissen Zustand putzen (die Spitze v.a. nicht vergessen). Das gibt ziemlich hohe Sicherheit, dass sie aussen sauber ist. Lösung für innen: Hier gibt es die 'atomic method', benannt nach dem Ersten hier im Forum, der sie gepostet hat (MostlyAtomicBob): Hotend hochheizen und dann bis etwa auf 90°C abkühlen lassen und an diesem Punkt das Filament rausziehen. So soll ziemlich alles rauskommen.

Zum Extruder-Problem: Die Option 'extruder runout protection' kommt mir neu und verdächtig vor. Deaktiviere diese doch mal in Marlin. 1cm Retract wäre übrigens etwas viel für einen normalen Retract (der 'abnormale' Retract wäre derjenige bei einem Extruderwechsel auf einer Dual-Extruder-Maschine). Ich empfehle Dir hier mal nur 4.5mm zu verwenden und die Geschwindigkeit des Retracts auf 30mm/s einzustellen.

Jetzt noch bitte die Bilder von 'private' auf 'public' stellen, so dass wir uns nicht nur mit den Thumbnails begnügen müssen...

Unplug the Arduino, install Cura 14.03 (which you need anyway as it is the best slicer software) including the Arduino drivers and then connect the Usb line to the printer again.

Also nicht Standard-Marlin von Ultimaker... ob da was schiefgelaufen ist hängt natürlich davon ab, welche Konfiguration Du da angegeben hast. Es gibt ein paar nicht sehr ausgereifte Zusatzfeatures für den Extruder auf marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com (ist von dort, oder?). Auch hier braucht's entweder einen Screenshot oder zumindest eine Auflistung, damit eine Beurteilung möglich ist. Falls Du keine Veränderungen an Deinem Ultimaker vorgenommen hast, die eine angepasste Marlin-Version absolut zwingend machen, solltest Du einfach mal die Default-Firmware mit Cura raufladen (Menu Machine->Install Default Firmware).

Das klingt nach einem selbstzusammengebauten UM Original. Ist das korrekt? Falls ja und Du die Standard-Firmware mit Cura raufgeladen hast, können Firmware-Fehler im Bereich Feeder/Retract ziemlich ausgeschlossen werden. Und wie mnis geschrieben hat, bitte ein oder mehrere Bilder posten.

If this doesn't help you also may try to disconnect the fan from the cable along the bowden tube but have the fan 'switched on' during the print. This way you might find a problem happening on the electronics.

I don't know if I am a good guy, but I hope, I'm not a bad guy... Combing is the opposite to standard travelling where filament is retracted, the head moved in a straight line and filament primed. With combing enabled, moves between points which belong to the same continuous part of the layer on which the travel is executed follow the contours of this continuous part instead of a straight line and no retraction / priming of the filament is performed. The consequences of combing are lines that cross horizontal surfaces and look ugly.

It's the same effect with 14.03-test2... Maybe combing moves are limited to a certain number of G0s? If it cannot be done within this number, it's just following a straight line?

You mean to keep the temp probe wires 10mm apart from the fan wires, right? Not the two wires of the temp probe from each other? That would even increase the sensitivity of the 'antenna'...

Maybe I missed something but the code in your original post shows that the LAYER-comment marks the G0 transit to the new position. The first print move is denoted by a G1 command.

Why don't you just take the comment with the layer no.?

Question is, where do you draw the line? I guess you're not switching off the fridge everytime you leave the house, are you? The UM2 has a CE declaration which says that this machine is safe accordingly to the EN ISO 12100 standard.This means it is quite reliable in terms of safety. But: It is certified as a machine, not as a home or household product. This has to be kept in mind. However, as you mentioned, the user has anyway to follow the directions written in the manual by Ultimaker.

Please have a look at http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3297-30mm-pla-vs-285mm-pla/

Those of you who had problems with the twister blocks might leave a comment on the TV page. Chopmeister might be glad to give some advices how to print or to provide an improved version if necessary. I feel a bit unsure right now as I was planning to use the twister blocks (I already printed them).

The only case I could imagine where no M107 is written would be the case where the fan is on from the very first layer on. So this might be your test case.