Dim3nsioneer

I think there is a discussion going on among the Marlin developers about introducing a print abort pin. Not a bad idea, if you ask me... :cool:

I'll soon know... my Pololu drivers passed Los Angeles yesterday so it means there most probably somewhere above the arctic ice right now... :rolleyes:

ETA = estimated time of arrival...

To be honest, I ordered the Pololu DRV8825. I managed to get one of the old steppers working again by increasing the current a tiny bit. So I'm not in the hurry I thought I would be. But I let you know anyway hot it turns out. I'm not sure which drivers (A4983 or A4988) were actually in my UM1. I'll have a look.

Well, we have to consider that UM is still a relatively small company and that they have a lot of things to work on for the UM2 (e.g. to shorten the lead time). They never gave a fixed date (that thing with the two month is more interpretation here on the forum than a statement by Daid) when a heated bed kit for the UM1 would be available. Up to know, they still sell exactly the same machine as last autumn, so there is no clue to doubt on the heated bed kit being no. 1 priority for the UM1. Personally, I prefer that UM fixes existing issues first before they produce some new kit which might cause other issues. I guess they will somehow bundle the heated bed with other improvements such as the 'UM2 electronics' in the UM1. This makes sense as new UM1s will be delivered with a heated bed at some point. The two things are connected as a heated bed e.g. makes a new power supply necessary. A heated bed is not something you design just on a sunny afternoon. N.b.: I built my own heated bed for the UM1. If it would be my decision, I would announce the heated bed kit very shortly before begin of delivery as inpatient people (and believe me, I belong to this category too) would want to have it immediately.

With or without the spare screws and nuts?

Sounds rather like an UM Original kit. Take your time to assemble it nicely. This time is not lost! Enjoy it!

What about: M92 Z200*16/3 I would try it if I would not have destroyed some stepper drivers recently... B) @Brendan: Please, just follow gr5's first advice...

Tea time small talk by Daid... :lol: No, really, thank you for sharing this. It's really interesting to read about! I once thought of writing a plugin which could double up whole layers in the case of a purely vertical structure. Did you double up only the infill or everything except the outermost shell for which one can now set a separate speed in Cura?

Today's teaser no. 2... :cool:

I use 0.06mm distance with clean and cold nozzles. I measure it with a feeler or with the eye. This distance gives a very nice first 0.2mm layer with optimal adhesion. At least on my UM1. Approx. 0.1mm ist the distance you should have with a cold nozzle as the thermal expansion of an UM1 hotend between room temperature and 200°C is 0.1mm.

You definitively missed a zero... the standard version is already 6600€..

...and he is teasing again... :roll:

As drayson pointed out, during bed levelling, the second nozzle should be a bit higher up in order to avoid collision with the unlevelled bed. After having levelled the bed with the first nozzle, you adjust the height of the second nozzle with the long screws. Be aware that by turning one of the long screws you might also change the height of the first nozzle again. A perfect levelling procedure is therefore iterative. One important thing: Both nozzles should have the same temperature when you level them against each other. I recommend bed levelling with a cold but clean nozzle. I level them to a distance of 0.06mm (in the meantime, I do this by eye in most cases). Together with the thermal expansion of the hotend in z direction by 0.1mm between room temperature and 200°C this gives a very nice first layer thickness which adheres nicely to the bed. Other people recommend levelling with a hot nozzle. You can do that but you would have to really put it down to the bed surface in order not to get a too large gap between nozzle and bed. Another thing you should be aware of: If you have the standard plexi bed, don't be confused if you perfectly levelled the two hotends against each other in one position of the print head, move the print head to a different position and realise that your precious mutual levelling has gone. The plexi bed is not flat. However, I usually managed to have a resonable mutual levelling. A small trick of mine: I once printed a three or four layer area on the plexi bed. The surface of such a print is quite even if you used correct print parameters. Then I did the mutual levelling (after letting the nozzle cool down) on top of this printed surface and it was perfect. I guess this is more information than you actually wanted...

I once had a very bad experience (clog) with a retract value larger tan 12mm... so I would stick to a smaller value... For the UM1, part of it is in marlin_main.cpp and part in ultralcd.cpp. Of course, language.h is also engaged... for the UM2 it's even more distributed. EDIT: I forgot one important point in the recent discussion. What about temperatures? I guess the bed should stay on in all cases, but what about the hotend(s)?

Thank you for clarification and for checking. I actually meant it exactly in that way, but it was misleading. I edited it in the post above. About G10/G11: I saw it is labelled as 'ONLY PARTIALLY TESTED' in standard Marlin. Thus I set it to second priority. The other catch with it is that the retraction/priming amount has to be set with an M207/8 if it shouldn't be 3mm which is quite small for an UM1 (maybe 3mm is a quite reasonable value for other hotends). I suggest to test changes one after the other and not to do too much at once. I didn't have a look at the change filament option so far. At the moment I think it is important to have a consensus about how the options should work. Otherwise we might get a I-am-not-happy-with-the-new-print-dialog-effect... :shock: if you know what I mean...

Ok, this is what the UM2 is doing (derived from the firmware). pause print: - stores the current position of all axis - empty buffer continue until buffer is empty - retracts predefined amount - lifts head by 20mm if z<170mm, by 2mm if z<200mm or not if z>200mm - moves head to park position - disables extruder steppers resume print: - moves to saved position - continues printing abort print: - stop printing - retract filament (by 20mm^3) - home all (really all? also z?) axis - release steppers Maybe an UM2 user could check this list? Question is, what should Marlin(1) do? In the case of aborting the print, I don't see any serious issue. Case 'pause print': I see a consensus about lifting the head if possible, move to a (fixed!) safe position in x/y (not homing, because it would destroy any settings made by G92 commands) and holding the x and y stepper active. I see an issue with the retract. As the standard UM1 settings do not know a preset for retraction there are three possibilities: 1) hard coded amount for retract 2) using the experimental(!) G10/G11 commands if firmware retract amount is defined, if not defined: 1) 3) no retract What do you think?

Although I'm printing exclusively with SD card, I think there is a simple answer to the question why people want to print over USB and with Cura: They are used to have ONE software which does EVERYTHING AUTOMATICALLY or by pushing ONE button and in maximum ONE cable to connect. Greetings from inventions like cloud computing and plug&play... It's what is expected from a modern device. Nothing wrong with that. One has to keep in mind that not every Ultimaker user is a tinkerer (anymore). I have the impression Ultimaker is well aware of that trend. Otherwise I could not explain why Cura is such a handsome application and very easy to start with. And I'm pretty convinced that the print dialog will improve again. But everyone has to be a bit patient right now. Let's continue to trust this great community of Ultimaker users here in the forum.

Oops, thanks for the correction. I thought these were just a bit ugly z movements. :oops:

Yes, they do. Now I see, you were referring to the blue lines. Cura doesn't display retraction. If you want to see the retraction, I can recommend http://gcode.ws. There you can slide through your print layer by layer and it shows you retraction and priming as red and blue dots.

Does it change if you set the minimal distance after retraction to e.g. 2mm or 5mm?

Yes, it's printing... :-P In white... You should tidy up the cable of your right fan... now as it is so public... EDIT: It's actually the first time I (don't) hear an UM2. It makes significantly less noise than my UM1!

Hallo Ultimaker_mini Macht der Drucker bei jeder Schicht ein relativ lautes Knackgeräusch? Das wäre dann ein eindeutiges Anzeichen dafür, dass der entsprechende Schrittmotor Schritte nicht sauber ausführt (sog. skippt). Dann müsstest Du vermutlich die langen Zahnriemen der entsprechenden Achse etwas lockern. Stefan

Have you tried to print 5 or 10 degree hotter? But don't go over 240.

I think this interpretation is correct. If you have the small gap, printed lines above the gap will hang down a bit and make the print looking uglier at this spot. The alternative would be to have no gap at all. Then you will have to cut the support away with a knife.