drayson

Great - good to hear it works, but I´m sure there is also a possibility in SW to safe/export just a portion of an assambly without a autodesk workaround... I will take a look later when back at my home pc.

:-) seems i was a bit slower than george :-) well explained dude :-)

ok, let´s make it easy: a second UM :-)

- blue tape in case the HB fails - gorilla/duck tape in case of the UM falls :-) For transport I´m thinking of seperate the feeder stepper wires by a connector to make it easier to place it safe instead of at the back of the UMO

jupp.... that´s true... mechanical engineers knows the strenght of iron & steel and how "easy" it is to work with... :smile: there are enough (official/published) sources of informaiton and instruction for people who like to build a gun by themselve !without! a 3D-printer. I´m really sad that just this f*****g story is the most refered thing when it coms to discussions about 3D printing... honestly, it was also one of the first questions I got when I told my colleagues at work that I own a printer... Nevertheless, printing a prop gun - like the ones my club uses for MA training - is indeed a cheap solution worth trying...

Hmm... Real looking replicas or toys are really a problem - think there was a case with a boy in US somewhere... Toy gun, now dead... Anyway, I've bought an aisoft for martial arts training purposes years ago and had the chance to compare it to a real Glock17 and I was really astonished how accurate it was made. No chance to differentiate.

:-) hmmm... could be an interesting transparency test - of course, just for filament assessment...

.... but I would suggest to name it different :-)

I agree, nevertheless, pls chech exactly what is regulated. @ daid, could it be that pellet guns are ment? Those with lead stamps? Thea are regulated in several countries but airsoft usualy are free as most of them dont get to this amount of energy.

How do you remove the print? Let you cool itdown completely or pull on it with force...? I assume you have an UM2 so pls chech the metal latch on the bottom end stop if its bend. Can happen and is already described here in several posts.

... true, except for flexible filaments like ninjaflex... there is as far as I know from several posts a little oil necessary to reduce the friction in the tube. Nevertheless, I´m a bit too scared to drill a hole into my bowden to give the thing I refered in my previouse post a try...

What´s the reason to oil it after the feeder? As it (impression form variouse postst reg. flex filaments) just needs very little oil it should work in front of the feeder too. Another option I found at thingiverse is to put a coupler onto the bowden and drill a tiny hole into it... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:50441

great!! what are the current dimensions of the stepper itself? would be interesting if there is a possibility to get it even smaller... with same torque...

@ Daid, 3Dcase: Perfect explaination from both of you :-) As I expected just simple origin config...

Could it depend on the orientation of the parts to a point of origin in the CAD-SW? Up to now I tried it only on very simple parts and it worked - so no experiance with fonts/letters... @ Daid, could you please give us a brief intro how the merge i done in Cura??

Ah - ok, sure... :-)

nice - like platform 9 3/4 - hogwarts express - or better daid's express :-)

I think the question was how to split objects or design them... isn´t? I'm a SolidWorks-user too and usually design only technical parts and no design parts or figurines. I generate my model in the first step as one complete part. Next step if I´d like to split it, is to start to cut away the not needed parts with defined sketches and cut-extrusions. For the second half I swap the outer contour of the sketch to cut away the other half... Maybe a bit weired description but I hope it is a bit understandable :smile:

Impressive... Do you see any need of fans on your setup or how is the cooling of the layers guarantied??

That´s true - but depends on your CAD. As far as I know in SolidWorks there is an option to create molds so that´s maybe used to create a support structure too... B.t.w. pm_dude replied that the swapAtZ has not been tested the second nozzle support (also I did just a brief basic test...)

B.t.w. - with this you could also get a solution for the second part of your request Just generate the support as a seperate part, merge it in CURA dedicated to the second nozzle and get a top support layer as normally used for a part... Then use swapAtZ to modify the gcode where no support is needed any more and end with tweakAtZ for cooldown... Might work but needs a lot of more PVA than just support...

Yes, that´s what I mean... @ MaxMK, maybe worth trying with it... :smile: Did a brief test - it´s working, just the order of generation of the files has to be considered - first slice without support and second nozzle setting - safe file - slice same configuration with support and second nozzle setting - past path to first file in the plugin - define hight where no support is needed any more (in mm!!!) - safe file again and open gcode-file in layer view to check :smile: Maybe there is a chance to get a updated version of PM_dude with layer selection - I´ll ask him :smile:

Hmmm.... Regarding the first suggestion you could try to slice the model 2 times - one with and one without support and exchange the upper part where no support is needed any more with the gcode from the slice without support... and add a line for cooldown the PVA extruder (M104?)... Can you follow...? Don´t know if it well explaines what I have in mind... :-) I don´t know if this could work but I remember a discussion regarding a plugin for change infill...

Had the chance to look closer at a Z18 - same here...

Tried it yesterday and it works - thank you for sharing!!