drayson

There is also another solution I found on thingiverse but related to a replicator... Should work for an UM too... There is a small cube wirh a cone shaped cut to print. When ready, stuck the nozzle into it and wait until the nozzle cools down to app.90 degree and make something like the atomic pull, but on the outside. I've never dont this before so no guarranty that it works... I also use paper towels :-) but thougth it might be a interesting solution too.

:-) good to hear :-)

Would you mind to share this plugin? I guess, there are a few other peaple with dual heads interested in...

You´re kidding.... no, you´re not kidding.... GREAT..... like it.... but my purse says... NO... Anyway... 100€-like cookies??? Will print a cutter... wait for it... :-)

UM is building a desktop beer brewery??? really??? GREAT :smile: OK, seriousely: how many cookies for spoiling....???

Worst case you could use the sharpie and cover the knob with a layer of transparent varnish... Thats usual the way I protect markings on my RC planes.

Nice, Robert, THANK YOU... :-)

Updated/replaced the dust cover components to allow full closure of the top as suggested by https://www.youmagine.com/users/ccw1984. A rendered picture showing all components can be found at youmagine https://www.youmagine.com/designs/umo-dust-cover For this version you´ll need a printhead cover to mount the accordeon cover to the head. I mounted it a few days ago and it keeps some of the heat inside the UMO. Further it´s silent because of the fabric of the IKEA Schottis. have fun :smile:

@ Nico, I agree on the "extended-statement". Considering the opinion of that d***a** from my company buying a Z18 just because of "built size" instead of criteria like quality, support and wase of use, double height would be an outstanding argument I guess not just for our colleague... Nevertheless, great to see ultimaker making the next steps...

Looks nice!!! Great result just looking at your pictures. B.t.w. How does the shield at overhangs? Any effects on the print part itself?

Tested... works great :-) the only thing I´m missing is the possibility to simulate the print e.g. to check the direction of printing would be nice. I know, there are some possibilities like the online gcode simulator, nevertheless, something like this built into cura might be an additional benefit... As usual, just my two cents... :-)

Dude, you are great :-)

@blecheimer: GREAT RESULTS!!!! I'm very happy that it works with "low" temperature (my heatbed reaches 65 degree but not much more...). Next step: order :-) Thank you again for testing!!!

Are those profiles also working for UMO???

... And it seem the UMO is missing...isnt??

Guys, all the best wishes for 2015 and may the f(ilament) be with you :-)

Here we go - it it mounted and works great. the heat is a bit higher inside the UMO as it acts a bit like a camber clusure... https://www.youmagine.com/designs/umo-dust-cover have fun... :-)

Interessante Lösung... Ich hab vor einiger Zeit eine Relais-basierte Lösung beim googeln gefunden, aber die seite leider nicht gelinkt. Relais schaltet nach gcode und unterbricht damit den Hauptstrom. Tum Einschalten gabs nen Taster zum Brücken soweit ich mich erinnere... Vielleicht find ichs wieder, dann post ich den Link...

Great work!!!!!

Sorry, maybe I didnt understand it right but the issue is now clearly assigned to the UM - right? Could you niw please check the value of z movement / steps per mm in your firmware via the ulticontroller and post them? I still think there is a FW issue...

I download a lot from thingiverse and really seldom to never had size issues. It strongly depends on the export settings of the providing users CAD and sometimes also on imperial or mm... In Cura there is a scaling option but you have to set it everytime newly. I would suggest to design a test cube by yourself and do some tests to identify if its model dependent or a wrong factor in your printer formware for travel lenght per step...

Jonny, where have you ordered the precision shafts for x/y?? I get rid of mine as they'r not 100% straight... Should not be an issue but start to suck viewing it from a mechanica engineers position.... :-) Btw... I ordered some Festo couplings for my bowden - maybe also usefull for your setup...

Please keep us informed how the suggested blue tape covered bed works - my f****g self built bed can't reach more than 70 degree and I'd like to order some too. But that would be senseless if 95 degree are required for bed adhesion...

I finished a very nice project today... Background: few moth ago I started again diving into archery - and now the time for reparing the damaged arrows is right. I designed a fletching jig for accurately placing the vanes/feathers onto my arrows (found a similar design searching a cheap jig...) It consists of 10 printed parts and 2 springs. Function: choose the green or blue part depending on the orientation of the cock vane on the arrow and nock it, place vane into the silver part and apply glue, place arrow in the two V-shaped colums, press them down to glue the vane onto the arrow... tadaaa... b.t.w. - printing currently the parts of my "dust cover" to close the top of my UMO...

Happy birthday!!! I hope that you get your presents on time - mine arrived yesterday 3 month too late (star wars black series 6" figure of dath vader)... :-)