drayson

Great solution! Did some time ago the same at my UMO - also with magnets, but I designed some flaps to mount it... Just as a remark from what I learned: Be sure that the magnets are strong enough to keep everything in place and make sure they are well glued to the parts. Otherwhise the enclosure will start shaking and generate more noise (learned that the hard way...).

Ich habe zwar einen UMO, aber das Problem kommt mir bekant vor. Ich habe von 4 auf 3 Punkte umgebaut um das Leveling zu vereinfachen. Mein Tisch ist 5mm Alu mit 2mm Glasplatte - und das ist plan. Leveling passiert bei mir über ein GCode-file, das jeweils die Punkte anfährt, an denen die Aufnahmen sitzen sowie eine Runde ca. 15mm weiter aussen und einen in der Mitte. Meine Beobachtung ist, dass die Punkte vorne/hinten passen, der Punkt in der Mitte allerdings einen anderen Abstand aufweist. Somit ist die einzige Möglichkeit und somit mein Fazit: die Achsen bzw. die beiden Stangen, die den Druckkopf führen sind leicht krumm... Du kannst probieren, die Achsen und Stangen auszubauen und mal über eine Glaspltte rollen zu lassen - dann siehst du, ob das auch bei dir der Grund ist. Ich kann millerweile ganz gut damit leben - gleiche das durch die Positionierung der Druckteile ein wenig aus bzw. durch den ersten Layer (=0.3) lg aus Graz

Thank you guys! It will take some time but I plan to post the parts and pieces if somebody like to copy it :-)

First cut... Success!!! Now I have to play with focus and distance to make it as perfect as possible with only 3W...

Update... Today I shot it the first time - tadaaa... the whole flat is smelling like burned paper... IT WORKED !!! But something I learned the hard way: selecting a relais is not easy for an mechanical guy. The SSR which I got (5V input...) was too weak and so the laser was switched on, but not off any more because of the damn SSR. Next step: mechanical 5V-relais ant THAT worked like a charm. ToDo: housing for laser electronics, test, test, test... :-)

Hi everybody... After a few hurdles (thanks to Sabrina and Sander for support!!) I´m back in community. There were a few unsuccessfull tests which ended up in a redesign of the electronics closure and a redesign of the wiring between my UMO and the laser electronics too. Further I ordered a pair of new protection glasses. I know, it´s a long journey at my side, but I guess, at the end it´s worth... Stay tuned... :-)

Did it - got better with the spot but worse on the other characters... Currently just live with it...

VEEERY interesting as I had a conversationwith Sander and got no offer for replacement... Sander???

30mm.. Cmon thats biiig :-) Thank you for collecting all that info. Since more UM2 are out there, it became a bit silent on the UMO front... B.t.w.: 25mm - but 4 of them :-( ... :-)

Looks great!! I'm also very interested to mod my UMO to get it more silent... Anyway... Which changes were necessarry in the FW??? Maybe you could post a step-by-step instructable..??

Same with ESET Endpoint Antivirus Could you pls. mirror to dropbox, rapidshare or something like this?

Sooo.... long time nothing happened as other stuff were more important (business....:-( ) Yesterday I had the chance to use lab equipment to chrosscheck the driver board and make sure it regulates the current as planned: status: mission accomplished - the board is working perfectly. Only open issue is to find the right fan and place it correctly to cool the IC down as it gets HOOOTTTT.... Next step: design protection stuff and find time to assamble all at the UMO and give it a test run...

Offtopic: @ Designo, bzgl. Laser: gibt es bei euch eventuell die Möglichkeit auch mal was lasern zu lassen oder ist das Ding nur FH-intern?

Meine sicht als "gelernter" maschinenbauingenieur mit käsefräse im keller: lass die finger von nem multifunktionsding - die meisten können alles, aber nix richtig. Für rapid prototyping in der preisklasse würd ich zum UM2 greifen und wenn ihr was fräsen wollt, nen shapeonko dazustellen. Wie schon mein vorposter schrieb: die linearlager sind normalerweise nicht für die querkräfte beim fräsen gedacht. Zum lasern baue ich auch gerade an einem 3w upgrade für meinen UMO, ist leider leistungsmässig begrenzt, aber einfach nachzurüsten... As usually: Just my 2 cents

I did it and its working well and I cant find a reason for loosing built volume. If you have one nozzle its the same as having two installed, and for the second it doesnt matter if you mount it back or left - the offset will be always app. 21mm... But thats just my 2 cents. B.t.w. I also designed a special fan shroud made of alu sheet metal to support this config.

WTF... great!! I had absolutely no luck with Ninjaflex at my UMO up to now... Maybe you could post your settings a bit more detailed? Have you oiled the filament or just plain? Which feeder config have you used... There are tonns of questions I guess... :-)

Take care - as fas as I know the second diameter is not propperly implemented in the calculations...

found it - but again, no idea where implemented... https://github.com/thinkyhead/Marlin/wiki

Hi! Pls check the development of Marlin - as I remember, there is already such a functionallity discussed, but I cant remember if already implemented and if it's valid for all kind of display sizes...

...as long as you don´t fall asleep from inhaling it... :-)

I tried some kind of CA glue for PLA which I use normally for fletching arrow vanes. Its from a supplier called G5. It is blue and become transparent when dry. The benefit is that it seems to stay flexible and absorbs vibrations instead of shaking into parts. Beside this, ordinary CA from Lochtite or epoxy are great for PLA... Just my 2 cents

found it !! but in another forum: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?146,187253 [...] I think if it finds a file on the SD card called auto0.g it will run it automatically. Once it has done that it will look for auto1.g, etc. I have never tried it. [...] So change the name of the file you´d like to start to auto0.g and power the UM, it should execute it... Disclaimer :-) I have not tried this - so no guarantee...

ok, another attempt: you could use a (mechanical) timer for powering (like the timers used to controll a lamp to switch it on/off on a certain time) the UM at a defined time and switch it of also on a defined time. With a slight modification of your gcode name it should be possible to automatically start the print on power on but I can´t find the post describing this right now... Anyone here remember the gcode config??

Sounds great - maybe you should also put this as a feature request directly @ github - also for the UMO Marlin FW... :-)

Damn, the nice white head has to be on top of the beer... not inside the glass... In German called "schaumkrone" - everything without is not a beer, even in Austria :-)