mnis

Hallo Maik Jaehne, also wenn ich den Inhalt zu dem externen Link richtig verstanden habe, dann erwartet Henning dort kein Ultimaker zum Begutachten, sondern MakerBot-Geräte. Henning überlegt aber die Anschaffung eines UM2 fürs Büro. Mit MakerBot hat Henning laut eigener Aussage bereits etwas Erfahrungen sammeln können. Markus

I believe this is only possible if you have written at least five or six posts here.

Ja, ich habe es ein paar Male versucht, aber ich müsste wirklich sehr sehr viel Kraft aufwenden. Und nach FEST kommt bekanntlich AB, deshalb, und auch weil ich keine passenden Ersatzteile dafür habe, gehe ich aktuell den etwas umständlicheren Weg. Am anderen Ende des Schlauch funktionierte es aber.

Here, almost the entire font is recognizable. A print over the Z-axis allows without finishing of the 3D model. The height of the characters was probably sufficient. There are entirely new problems: The object is obviously somewhat distorted. But in the frontal plan view, it does not look quite as bad. Almost like an optical illusion. The outer circle looks good. Even the inner circle from behind looked also looks good. What could I do to eliminate or reduce the problem? Print Colder? Choose a finer resolution of the Z-axis? Change the internal filling? Wow, what the Ultimaker2 is capable of, madness. The correct perspective is crucial. Much more an optical illusion. Markus

Hoffentlich sind auch wirklich alle Verbrennungs-Reste raus, sonst dauert es nicht sehr lange bis zur nächsten Verstopfung. Wie dem auch sei, ich kann die im englischen Foren-Bereich beschriebene Methode nicht ausprobieren, da ich den Schlauch ohne Anwendung von Gewalt oben nicht gelöst bekomme. Viel Glück weiterhin.

Hallo Maik ...bei meinem alten Drucker habe ich das immer mechanisch gelöst, was zur Folge hatte das ich die Innenseite der Düse zerkratzt habe... Ausbrennen hatte ich auch ausprobiert, allerdings bekommt man so keine Sand oder Staubpartikel raus, da der Schmelzpunkt deutlich über dem Material der Düse liegt... Ergänzend möchte ich erwähnen, dass ich selbstverständlich nach dem Ausbrennen keine Maschinen wie Dremel, usw. verwende. Alle Rückstände werden manuell mit viel Feingefühl und wenig Kraft, sowie passenden Werkzeugen aus der Heizkammer herausgeholt, dabei können sicher auch Kratzspuren entstehen. Aber die Heizkammer des UM2 ist definitiv etwas größer im inneren Durchmesser als das eigentliche Filament, welches aufgeheizt durch die Düsenöffnung gepresst wird. Darum glaube ich, dass feine Kratzer in der Wandung der Heizkammer kaum Auswirkungen auf die Qualität der Druckerzeugnisse haben werden, in diesem Zusammenhang ist mir bisher auch noch nichts negativ aufgefallen. Nach der manuellen Reinigung verwende ich abschließend ebenfalls Druckluft vor der endgültigen Montage des Druckkopfes. Ich wünsche Dir weiterhin viel Freude mit Deinem UM2 und sei herzlich willkommen hier im Forum. Markus

Ich würde auch versuchen mit einer geringstmöglichen Temperatur und Geschwindigkeit zu drucken. Außerdem schaut es nach 100 Prozent Füllung aus, da würde ich, sofern möglich, die Gesamt-Masse auf 33 Prozent reduzieren. Die voreingestellten 75 Grad des Heizbetts sind meist für Objekte mit feineren Details absolut ungeeignet. Ich vermute jedenfalls, dass Du direkt auf Glas druckst. Das Objekt bleibt während der gesamten Druckzeit viel zu weich. Versuche mit den bekannten Hilfsmitteln die Hafteigenschaften des Glases zu verbessern, damit Du z.B. mit kaum mehr als 60 Grad Bett-Temperatur drucken kannst. Auch ist das Nachschrumpfen beim Herunterkühlen des PLA (0.2%) zwar sehr gering im Verhältnis zu ABS (2.0%), fällt aber bei niedrigeren Arbeitstemperaturen insgesamt viel geringer aus. Das Ganze ist natürlich viel mehr interessant bei Objekten mit hohem Präzisionsbedarf, also nicht so sehr bei Kunstobjekten. Markus

Da hilft leider nur das komplette Zerlegen und manuelle (Ausbrennen) Reinigen. Ich habe da bereits eine gewisse Routine entwickelt, die dritte Reinigung dauerte kaum mehr als zehn Minuten. Auch müssen wirklich sämtlich Verbrennungsrückstände anschließend aus der Heizkammer heraus, dafür benötigt man geeignete Werkzeuge. Manche gehen auch andere Wege und versuchen bei etwa 90Grad den Dreck herauszuziehen, das hilft aber leider nicht immer. Allerdings habe ich auch schon einen originalen Temperatur-Sensor zerstört, da ich als Anfänger glaubte man könne ihn nicht so ohne weiteres vom Druckkopf trennen. Beim Ausbrennen der Verstopfung wurde es dem Sensor dann doch zu heiß und ich musste den Support bemühen. Da habe ich trotz Eigenschuld kostenlos und schnell Ersatz bekommen. Jetzt läuft alles besser als je zuvor. Ein paar kleine Optimierungen habe ich dann auch gleich noch durchgeführt. Besondere Aufmerksamkeit gilt auch dem Teflon-Trichter, dieser könnte im unteren Öffnungsbereich etwas zu eng sein. Das Filament sollte mit wenig manueller Kraft hindurchgeführt werden können. Notfalls muss man mit einem kleinen Handbohrer etwas nachhelfen. Auch die ersten fünf Zentimeter des unteren Materialeinzugs sollten optimiert werden, damit das Filament schnurgerade eingezogen werden kann. Da könnte man z.B. ein transparentes Röhrchen mit einem flexiblen Schlauchstück anbringen. Es hilft auch sehr, generell mit den geringstmöglichen Temperaturen zu arbeiten. Ich wundere mich sowieso schon wie oft man hier lesen kann, das PLA mit deutlich über 215 Grad gedruckt wird, davon bin ich jedenfalls ab. Also könnte man langsamer und kühler drucken. Materialwechsel ist z.B. bei PLA bereits unterhalb 180Grad möglich, das vermeidet Einbrennungen aufgrund langer Standzeiten ohne Materialvorschub. Der Ultimaker2 ist auf die Verwendung mit PLA optimiert, so kann man das jedenfalls irgendwo lesen. Und solange die Arbeit mit diesem Material für mich langfristig nicht absolut zufriedenstellend läuft, werde ich jedenfalls keine anderen Materialien ausprobieren. Ich glaube einfach so die Maschine besser kennenlernen zu können.

Much obliged. I already have two objects with 0.1mm / 0.05mm, the overall quality is great. Even when the object with 0.1mm Scripture is already readable. And 0.05mm is the scriptural perfect. The pattern with 0.02mm is probably not good because I would have to choose a finer structure of the support material. The overhang is not produced cleanly. Unlucky. I will give your information to the interested person. I was asked to make test prints with the UM2. The person wants to be seen against the UM2 purchase a few samples. I had the time and inclination to do so. Markus

That does not sound so good, but it works for me for sure. I have nothing of it when I invent stories ... I would also like to know whether others have tried. Try it please and shares your experiences. All tests were previously only with original Ultimaker-PLA, no idea if there will be new problems later with ABS. I also discovered in my machine, which is the engine of the material feeder longer than the other engines. Do all UM2's integrated a bigger step motor? There are huge differences in quality even with step motors. Maybe some are actually too weak or faulty. A friend (electronics-maniac) has already purchased several apparently identical engines with enormous differences in performance. Nothing is impossible. The entire way to the heating chamber should be examined. The filament must be able to be moved up through the Teflon funnel with little hand strength. For a test, you can remove the gear from the step motor. The screw for the pinch roller should be rotated until the white marker is at the top. It is enough for the weakest setting. My problems are definitely history. Currently running a 21 hour test object. With over 3100 Layer (0.02mm) a big job for a small part. Already over 12 hours with no apparent problems and about 10 hours it will need to final completion. My machine is on the desk, next to my laptop. Ticking is definitely no longer perceptible. Markus

Here the file is: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/mp6qcvwgzkpgpu3/hPitORokmX It is enough for me to know what the problem is present. The file must not be corrected, it is just a test object. Thanks in advance :smile: Markus

The layer view does not show it. Since I may well get false information. Unfortunately I can not edit because I have currently no CAD software. Yes I have an STL file, how should I share it? Should I put it in my DropBox and then call you the link to? Markus

Thank you :smile: I should mention: The plastic tube must not hold the Teflon tube strong. The inner diameter can also be chosen slightly larger. Because the filament transport is still automatically pulls the hose up. Again, this has advantages for easier material change and a proposed material retraction is also easier for the machine. More details you can always find below the images in my gallery. Markus

Cura v14.01 embezzles details ... I have printed an object multiple times with different Layer resolutions. In the preview, the object is displayed correctly with any label. But the prints are always in the same position missing labels, how can I solve the problem? If this is already known, then I'm sorry. Markus

Yes, it works amazingly well. For me it is also the most space-saving solution. I can not put a filament below or farther away from the machine. Until now, this form of optimization has the highest impact. I guess there are already over 100 hours with no ticking. I do not miss that sound, anyway.

The Teflon funnel was only a small part of the hard road to success. After the trouble did not end and again gaps in objects were visible, I finally found the best solution for me. The step motor has lots of power in any case. If too much tension in the Bowden tube is formed, the filament slips back sometime mercilessly and then parts of the currently printed area are mostly faulty. Also the increase of the force of the contact pressure roller does not improve the situation. Therefore, it is also often recommended not to increase the pressure by means of the adjusting screw. And everything is so easy. You just have to know. At least the first 50 millimeters below the material feeder must run straight. How do you solve the problem is not really matter, only the result counts. Immediately after the implementation of my tips, the filament transport has much more power for constant and easy material feed. Wrong combinations of temperature and speed lead to further poor results. Known issues with lousy filament quality can not be resolved. But all the symptoms will be less pronounced. May the fight against ticking noise and damaged prints begin. Below the pictures to my solution: Try it ...

Hi nudelmannrichter Hast Du schon jemanden gefunden der einen Testdruck für Dich macht? Wenn nein, dann schick mir eine PM und ich werde es für Dich erledigen. Markus Have you ever found someone who makes a test print for you? If not, then send me a PM and I'll do it for you. Markus

I have no idea if the original glass is something special. But I have an extra glass with dimensions: 4mm x 230mm x 255mm; gifted. The glass is one-sided satin finish (frosted for experimental), the other side is smooth. Something more accurately would be the following dimensions: 4mm x230mm x257mm. But the 2mm difference is negligible, while the plate is properly seated and in the non-printable area to the left and right are missing each 1mm. Both sides of the new glass plate, have their pro's and con's. A good idea is, for example, a plate for PLA and a Kapton decals applied for ABS. On the satin side of my glass Kapton liable not as strong, thus it can be stuck somewhat smoother. Fine bubbles can be easily pushed out, without washing up liquid and water. Markus

The break is over anyway, Ultimaker is back... So my wishes are not so high. I already reaches a second extruder for my machine. For experimental purposes, even without warranty, even with the temperature unsolved problem. I've really had enough of it. All the time you have to remove tight-fitting support material. :???: Markus

I would let me make a glass plate. If you have experience with a glass cutter, then you cut a glass plate with 4mm x 230mm x 255mm. It does not hurt to have a second glass plate. So you can wait in peace for your glass from Ultimaker. Markus

Thank IRobertI Then I'm going to get the latest version Cura take a closer look at the weekend. If we want good things to get better, then we have to share all the experiences. Back to the Teflon Piece: It looks like it would be the easiest solution to problems of which some users report. What is the diameter to the lower end of the PTFE funnel, called cold-end, have exactly? What was provided? Is it an easy-to-find part or specially made for Ultimaker machines? Markus

Thank illuminarti, your explanations are detailed and easy to understand, so thank you for your effort. I still use Cura and firmare v13.12. Cura provides under: HELP> CHECK FOR UPDATE, no new version. The message is always: YOU ARE RUNNING THE LATEST VERSION OF CURA!, That does not matter to date. Some reports of problems with the latest version Cura (v14.01 ... 14.01.x.?.?.?) Have confused me a little. And due to time shortage I can not read everything, unfortunately. So I do not know if the latest version works reliably. Last Sunday I had to stop printing, the machine did not stop immediately, which I already knew. When it stopped, the machine has pulled the thread out of the hot-end wide and thin. I had to completely disassemble a second time the print head so. Otherwise I would not be able to remove all residues. Since I had worked with much lower temperatures and I already had a little routine, it took little more than ten minutes. The machine was so quickly ready for use again. I, however, noticed something during my work: The PTFE piece (cold-end ?) Above the hot end is similar to a funnel. The lower end was very very tight, perhaps too tight. Anyway, I was dilated with a small hand-drill (0.118inch) the opening bit. Previously, the inner diameter was slightly lower, I could clearly feel. At first I thought it was a mistake to do so. But apparently I've done the right thing, because: I suddenly can print at much lower temperatures without missing details. On the contrary, the typical click of the material feed is seemingly gone. Before I already got from time to time massive clicks at 35mm/s / 210 degrees. Now I can go at the same speed with the temperature well below 200 degrees, without hearing just one click. Besides, the object structure of my prints is now much cleaner overall. Even narrow walls look much smoother. All the test I have done with the Cura defaults. I only have speed, extruder temperature, bed temperature, and the Adhesions-aids for direct printing on glass changed. Maybe there are manufacturing tolerances with respect to the cold-end, which should be checked during (...before) assembly of the Ultimaker2. What do you mean? Markus

Hello people A friend showed me thingyverse. We have often talked about the much waste is presented. This refers to prints of poor quality, bad documentation, poor representations, all pretty unloving. Really a great mass, but quantity is not enough. Again and again were small highlights to recognize, objects with apparent high print Quality. These were from a Ultimaker machine has meant my friend. That was an important clue for my decision, so I now have a Ultimaker2. I do not regret this decision. So it is a good and detailed presentation with tips for successful reproduction significantly crucial. Then the name Ultimaker is a self-perpetuating, guaranteed. Things that are on other machines not so slight feasible are needed. And people..."You need Gasoline"...You have to get a head start...The firmware and software should be supplied with more than one language, which is important for a wide-ranging acceptance... "Designed for non-expert and expert"...eliminating language-barriers, so you enjoy a new feeling when easy 3D-Printing... Markus

Hi guys I would like to know how the material feeder can detect the material flow requires too much force. A mechanical solution is not apparent. Monitors the electronics the power requirements of the step-motor? Is triggered at a high current demand Retract (ticking)? Or is the step-motor, a special variant? Markus

No, my mistake, there is apparently no official heating bed for the UM1. But at least there are a pair of good instructions on how to do it yourself.