mnis

Alcohol cleaners bring, unfortunately, only a clean surface, but did not improve the adhesion properties of the glass. I had been thinking about a weak solution of sugar in water, could also improve the adhesion properties. On eBay, should be something to find. It must be a cleaner that is capable of removing the color from a wide variety of permanent markers and ball point pens. Markus

One more thing on the fly: Actually, it should not be a problem, these two inner engine covers to print in PLA, if necessary, just two pieces to put together, then the holes might as well be considered for 40mm fans. Also, I still need more creative support for comedo: - Creation of a stable mount for the original power supply of the UM2, so that it can be integrated into comedo. - Ideas for creating easy-to-install housing panels. For the start maybe something that fits well with the general UM2 design. I am totally unable to create a 3d object but unfortunately, I have to first learn :smile: And beware: Although comedo may be my beginning ... But it would be gives me great pleasure when it becomes our great common work ... to make the UM2 to a much much better machine. The first great accessory with perhaps very useful for all and an attractively low price. Who builds comedo with SN: 0002 ??? Markus

!!! Currently, this post is still under construction !!! 2014-March-01 !!! Please note: While in the following Posts more technical things will be discussed, I am writing to you at this point more information on opportunities for practical implementation. This post will therefore gradually expanded. At the end you will gain also at this point a little summary of the successes or failures: For the beginning I have chosen and printed a couple of fan covers, two of which I immediately installed on my UM2. Council: There are also ways to implement a modification without risk, so that the machine can be easily moved back to its original state for cautious people. - A new extruder motor can be fitted with a mating connector, without altering the original engine. - The two inner engine covers can be easily copied and are equipped with fans. - You can do it much better, if you positioned your cooling fan´s much further down. - A fan control can of course also supplied with an external power supply. - There are so many possibilities for good experimentation with little risk of damaging the good piece of hardware, it only requires little thought. Additional info: For people with great interest in my small modification of the UM2 there will soon be some technical assistance from Aaron Alai. Aaron can be determined better explain what exactly I have done. I am pleased with his opinions and comments. :smile: Markus Considerations for purchasing materials: * Soldering skills and basic experience in the electronics required. In absolutely necessary, seek technical advice from a friend or colleague. * The proposed framework offers sufficient space for the original UM2 power supply and also a compact multi-outlet. Who wants to use a separate power supply for the fan controller, which requires a minimum of 12 volts and 1 amp power. The big advantage is that the machine and the chunky UM2 PSU will be one unit. * A PC fan controller usually needs two input voltages for an external power supply at least one DC-DC step-down regulator is required. The fan controller requires 5 volts, the fans require 12 volts. * If you want to use the system board from the UM2 for supplying the fan control, two DC-DC Step Down Regulators are required. * Finish converter boards such as LM2596 ... LM2596S is available as a cheap China goods on eBay. * The fan control is a well-known from the PC sector commercial component. There are perhaps hundreds of variations with the form factor 5.25 ". Models are available with double height, with minor adaptations, these can also be used. Selects something beautiful and functional. A good choice is a model for at least 3 fan. I have for my example Aerocool X-Vision selected and am very happy with it. * The fans TFD-4020m-12Z / 40x40x20mm / 12 volt ... 0.08 amps / <1 watt / 21dBA / 4.17CFM / 5000rpm, are already quite useful. There are certainly better and quieter on the market. But for the beginning these suffice me. The fans require very little energy and promoting adequate air. However, it could be the better choice for better cooling of the feeder motor, a more powerful version. *The frame is made of 20x20mm aluminum profiles with three grooves and a flat side. I believe the correct designation for the profiles is: "Misumi profiles nut 6" Material Requirements: 3 meters ... 4x325mm / 4x 323mm / 4x85mm (... customizable). For more accurate profile cut pieces please measure again, for your own UM2. Then you need a total of 16 matching mounting bracket with screws and T-nuts. Almost all frame parts are also printable, I am very curious about your solutions. Complete offers including cutting, there are of course on eBay. The feet can also be created from soft PLA itself, I think. I took finished. The foam rubber has a thickness of 2 mm and can be purchased as a Self-adhesive sheets inexpensive. I have small squares cutted from a 20mm plate itself.

A few small additions: -I think it's not so difficult to find other desk cleaner with similar composition. I do not mean ordinary glass cleaners, they do not have the special features that improve the adhesion. -In the production of many small objects all first layer must be produced immediately for good results. In the production of a part at a time, the effect is not as good as the means quickly evaporates. -I bought also pure orange oil to make more tests. The orange oil has many interesting properties. But I lack the time, because the job I'm doing completely different things. -Nevertheless, I have in my spare time UM2 slightly modified, adapted to my needs. I would like to know your own opinion and i would be very happy if you check it out. -For information on good adhesive for 3D printing, just a look into the RepRap wiki. Additional information on individual substances you will find certainly at Wikipedia.

@ yellowshark Big thanks to you, but I think I know: Ultimaker PLA is somewhere Produced mainly in the Netherlands, not here in Germany. In fact, this filament roles are declared with 190-260 degrees. This stuff delivers pure in my opinion good to very good results. But the winding quality is crap, I wrap it before using it on an empty spool. Also the material in proportion to alternatives unfortunately is very expensive, even for buyers in the immediate neighborhood. @ Maik I use a desk cleaner that is ready to offer unfortunately anywhere. I give one to two puffs on a handkerchief and wipe it on the glass plate. Immediately after that I start to print. This allows me to print directly on glass large objects. More than 15 hours of printing time are therefore no problem at all and there is no visible distortion. After cool down which the printed objects dispatch almost by itself. It improves the adhesion properties and allows bed temperatures even slightly below 60 degrees. The stuff contains mainly water-soluble solvents and smells of citrus orange, so I think that a main ingredient is orange oil. The exact recipe is a secret, of course. A further advantage, it does not leave a visible residue on the glass plate. I can not make precise statements about the health impact, but you should ventilate the room well. Markus

Meine Meinung: Mögliche Druckgeschwindigkeiten oberhalb 75mm/s sind reine Augenwischerei, ähnlich wie beim Megapixelwahn der Kamerahersteller. Die angegebene Druckgeschwindigkeit betrifft die X und Y Achsen und kann z.B. trotz voreingestellter Geschwindigkeit von 75mm/s während des Druckvorgangs stark herabsinken, das ist Abhängig von dem zu druckenden Objekt und weiteren Einstellungen. Die reine Fahrgeschwindigkeit ohne Druckvorgang kann sogar noch deutlich höher >400mm/s liegen. Die Z-Achse ist das langsamste Element, da es hier nur um die Höheneinstellung des Druckbetts geht, und liegt so bei maximal 40mm/s glaube ich. Eigentlich macht es kaum Sinn über sehr hohe Druckgeschwindigkeiten bei allen 3D-Druckern für den Privatgebrauch nachzudenken, da mit zunehmender Druckgeschwindigkeit fast immer auch das Druckerzeugnis deutlich schlechter in seiner Qualität wird. Druckgeschwindigkeiten zwischen 35 und 75 mm/s liefern bestmögliche Resultate. Viel wichtiger ist die reproduzierbare Positionierungsgenauigkeit aller drei Achsen und ein konstanter Materialfluss passend zur Druckgeschwindigkeit, dies wurde bei den Ultimaker-Maschinen gut umgesetzt. Markus

Ähnliche Probleme gibt es leider auch beim Ultimaker2, neben vielen weiteren Problemen...Danke für Deinen sehr interessanten Bericht :smile: Markus

Hi Guys, Freaks and Everyone :smile: CoMeDoONE I'm no expert, that should you know, but I'm really stubborn, please exercise some patience with me. My first solution to trying eliminating much-discussed problems with the material feed of Ultimaker2 has reached a usable state. Basically just a more powerful engine with active cooling is needed... Engine-Cooling is necessary, as the new engine otherwise transfers too much heat on the knurled wheel. The change to a new engine currently has an experimental status and is more intended for experienced users. Cooling of the original UM2 is not essentially necessary but everyone can decide for themselves. *** There are to consider the following: The Trinamic motor only makes 200 whole steps per round. The original UM2 engine makes 400 steps. That could be a problem on very finer resolutions <0.1 mm. There is a possibility which could be inaccurate, the material flow. And or accurate dosing is not possible. Further testing must be done for more accurate statements. I have done something more with it. After many tests and smaller optimizations, there is good news for you if you wish. A couple of videos and Pictures for now. I will try to explain everything in much more detail in the coming days ... at the weekends. The presented Trinamic motor has a lot more power, but generates less load on the system, there is absolutely no breaks in the material flow more. Nevertheless, an additional active cooling is required. *** The material flows out from the nozzle like a bursted pipe, genuine. :smile: The other thing with the digging of the knurled wheel in the filament, I could also alleviate some, but not completely eliminate them. Anyway, I also have a few little extra tips for you, so entirely without redesigning the extruder. +) A powerful stepper motor with low power consumption, *** you must really reduce the flow of material to nearly 65 percent. I like to deliver evidence. Additional Feature-List of CoMeDoONE for UM2: +) Massive base for the Ultimaker2 +) Non-slip and better vibration protection. +) Increases the reliability and strength of the material feed. +) Cools efficiently all stepper motors and the system board. +) Two additional controllable cooling fan possible ( Aerocool X-Vision ). +) Suitable for rooms with unusually high ambient temperature. +) All fan controls available, known from the PC sector with 5.25 slot. +) Expandable and customizable, print your own side walls. +) Inexpensive reproducible, little more than 100 euros required. +) Space for the additional integration of the external power supply. +) No additional power supply required. +) No Commercial overall product, absolutely free idea. +) All the information about the perfect reverse engineering, there will soon be here ( de , en) in the forum. Some vids: Pictures, all Vids, and regulary Updates here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/mp6qcvwgzkpgpu3/hPitORokmX Markus

Hi, You can go to Cura settings determine at what height the fan to run at 100 percent. In the case of UM2 it is an absolute no-go to work with bed temperatures above 60 degrees, which is absolute hogwash. During cooling of the objects there are funny distortions of the objects. Experiments with a variety of tools proven to improve the adhesion properties of the first layer. Glue stick, adhesive films, adhesive tape, various sprays, etc. all this should help to print colder and with precision. The extruder temperature should be well below 210 degrees. Can you not get good printing results generally at 210 degrees and original Ultimaker filament, then something is wrong with your machine. Try to get as cold as possible to print and probably you will receive accurate small objects. The temperature range of PLA is regularly from 180 to 260 degrees, and the temperature must be in harmony with the printing speed. Speeds in the range of 35-50mm / s provide a good compromise between quality and speed. All this is my opinion on the situation, but I am absolutely not an expert. Markus

Well, it is primarily for convenience. Quick transfer a modified GCode file to the printer, which is a few meters away. With no need to get up to, wirelessly happy. No idea how it looks with the range. And to start the printing process you have to get up anyway. Each manufacturer of these cards makes as its own thing. And of course there are safety concerns in the various products. Also the card reader UM1/UM2 should not allow more than 2GB, which I believe to have read somewhere. A good WiFi SDHC card is, for example, the Transcend TS32GWSDHC10; these I bought because of good reviews anyway. But due to acute lack of time so far I could not try out the part. Markus

Hallo ConceptF, Vermutlich wirst Du im englischsprachigen Forenbereich eher fündig werden. Ich habe mich noch überhaupt nicht mit G-Codes befasst. Markus

I'm not exactly enthusiastic about PayPal, but: Payments go global very quickly, why can not banks, this actually offer? Technically should be something already be possible and buyer protection could be offered optional. Before the end of 45 days you can easily open a case with PayPal, then you will receive additional days buyer protection until the matter was closed. The receiver retains the received money for the time being, and gets the opportunity to comment on the matter before the payment is actually frozen. As long as you so do not explicitly ask for the payment back, the dealer gets the opportunity to fulfill the contract. So I understood the whole thing anyway. Markus

I hope you snapped the bad guys soon and let them build under control UM2s in jail. :smile: :smile: :smile:

I already have a few ideas: First Ultimaker must of course protect the storehouse better, so it will not get worse and more units are stolen. 1.) The machine defined in terms of the overall concept. And only in selling the whole machine the thieves get the maximum yield. Clever thieves will not believe the whole machine to offer, as the Ultimaker2 is currently still too specific. Public paths use to bring stolen goods to the man, not a good solution are determined in this case. Please do not misunderstand the following Ultimaker, finally, I've also bought a UM2 and am satisfied so far. But: 1a.) I could easily replicate at home the machine for just under 600 euros total material costs. Then I would have a working machine, with almost identical features. An elegant dice in a glamorous housing, with a few little extras and optimizations perhaps. First, i have put together just a small team. Well anyway, I have some crazy ideas on the schedule ... :smile: 2.) But now seriously, what is so very special to Ultimaker2 ...? The entire case, or parts from the body (hard to sell, since presumably rare defect). But sure these parts are available somewhere soon. A watchful eye in this direction seems to be promising success, take the correct lane. 3.) The complete print head is probably the most promising part of the UM2, since parts of it can be used for upgrading an existing machine and a second print head is not yet officially available from Ultimaker. Well that only Ultimaker offers special machine parts, as far as I know. 4.) Forget the sticker with the machine serial number. There is still the complete Arduino Main Board with all connectors (very special) and the Ultimaker label. Possibly every board has a printed serial number, and a readable via software serial number of Arduino for example. This could be taken into account in the future, even if it is already too late for the stolen machines. Also the board I count among the most desirable components. 5) The hot plate has a Ultimaker label, you can recognize it when the platform is very high up in the front right corner. 6) And a few other components such as the case for the X / Y-carriage with the sliding bearings are something special, and could appear separately. 7) All other components are not very special, but this promise no lucrative revenue as opposed to the sale of the aforementioned much more specific components and the quality overall product. eBay will soon have many matching small parts (not typical) for the Ultimaker2. Nice to know that the waiting honest customers do not seem to suffer from this fact, so no huge delays also occur. Good luck Markus

Danke, Danke, das ist genau die am weitesten verbreitete Meinung. :smile:

My first thought: Never again a permanently installed print head, it needs to go in the direction of fast clip. At least the nozzles shall be easily replaceable, good things do not need a redesign. A compact printing head including heating, temp sensor, nozzle, as easily removable module, that would be good. Easy to install, for example, by a twist lock. Markus

Hallo telophar Ich arbeite im konventionellen Maschinenbau als Lackierer. Dort haben wir verschiedenste Abteilungen von der Konstruktion bis hin zum Vertrieb. Ich habe aufgrund fehlender Kenntnis in speziellen Fachbereichen einen (...mir sehr kompetent erscheinenden) Kollegen aus unserer Elektro-Abteilung gefragt, der sich in seiner Freizeit halt auch intensiv mit dem 3D-Druck befasst. Seine Aussagen habe ich aus oben beschriebenem Grund erst einmal nicht angezweifelt. Auch habe ich zur gleichen Thematik andere Kollegen befragt und mir bereits sehr unterschiedliche Meinungen angehört. Ein 3D-Drucker ist aktuell absolut nicht haushaltsüblich und im privaten Bereich doch noch sehr selten anzutreffen. Aufgrund der sehr hohen (möglichen) linearen Geschwindigkeiten, und wieder aufgrund der Informationen von Kollegen nahm ich halt an das Linearlager robuster als Sinterlager sind. ...Schaue ich mir aber die mit unterschiedlichen Lagern ausgestatteten Linearwellen an, so kann ich deutliche (eventuelle) Abnutzungs-Unterschiede (...mit bloßem Auge sichtbare Verfärbungen der Oberflächen) erkennen, trotz regelmäßiger Wartung. Diese sichtbaren Unterschiede kommen allein von der zusätzlichen Drehbewegung der Linear-Welle, ob es bereits echter Verschleiß ist, kann ich aber nicht mit Gewissheit sagen. Die mit Linearlagern ausgestatteten Wellen hingegen sehen nahezu unverändert, halt wie im Auslieferungszustand der Maschine, aus. Generell versuche ich erhaltene Informationen mit passender Fachliteratur zu verifizieren, aber zu diesen beiden Punkten habe ich es schlicht versäumt.

Solltest Du in kurzen Abständen wieder Probleme mit dem Materialfluss haben, dann probiere weitere geläufige Methoden wie sie hier im Forum beschrieben sind. Du darfst auf gar keinem Fall den hinteren Lüfter deaktivieren während die Heizkammer in Betrieb ist, dies Könnte dazu führen das der Teflon-Trichter sich durch Überhitzung deformiert. Der Trichter ist so eine Art Material-Guide (COLD END) und soll auch verhindern das aufgeheiztes Material einen anderen Weg als durch die Düsenöffnung geht. Überprüfe regelmäßig ob dieser kleine Lüfter permanent Läuft, er darf niemals während des Druckvorgangs aus sein, das führt zu massiven Problemen wie z.B. die von Dir beschriebene Ringbildung oberhalb des Trichters. Bei Standzeiten mit eingeschalteter Heizkammer und sehr hoher Temperatur ohne Materialfluss, könnte dieser kleine Lüfter überfordert sein. Eine Andere Sache ist das dieser kleine Lüfter im Leerlauf der Maschine etwas nervig surrt/rauscht, also permanent läuft, aber das ist eventuell Sache der Geräte-Firmware. Ich könnte mir Vorstellen das der kleine Lüfter nicht schaltbar und auch nicht steuerbar ist, da er einfach nur an einer Versorgungsleitung hängt.

Die Düsenreinigung ist nun mal der etwas unangenehmere, aber meist unvermeidliche Part der Wartung eines 3D-Druckers, dies kann Dir Ultimaker eigentlich nicht verwehren, sofern Du gefühlvoll und ausreichend informiert an Die Sache heran gehst. Aber wenn ich es richtig gelesen habe endet die Garantie bereits nach 3 Monaten. Im Wesentlichen musst Du nur die vier oberen, sehr langen Schrauben ganz herausdrehen. Einzelteile fliegen dabei erst einmal nicht herum, denn alles ist recht modular aufgebaut und wird auch noch durch die Verkabelung zusammengehalten. Vor dem Zerlegen schau Dir alles ganz genau an, dann sollte der Rückweg auch kein Problem sein. Bei vorsichtiger Handhabe kann nicht so sehr viel schiefgehen. Sieh zu dass Du halt nirgendwo zu stark daran zerrst und auch nichts versehentlich einklemmst. Kleinere Ersatzteile gibt es mit etwas Glück gratis auf Anfrage. Es gibt bestimmt auch ein paar Videos und tausend Tipps zur Problemlösung, aber auf die Schnelle kann ich jetzt nicht für Dich danach suchen. In Deinem Fall halte ich das Ausbrennen und manuelle Reinigen immer noch für die wirksamste Methode. Heizpatrone und Temperatursensor können und müssen dabei entfernt werden, diese sind aber nur gesteckt. Auch müssen dann wenige weitere Schrauben entfernt werden. Es gibt bestimmt harmlosere Methoden, aber das muss jeder für sich entscheiden. Im Anschluss empfehle ich generell mit geringstmöglicher Temperatur zu drucken, notfalls eben auch langsamer, meist erzielt man dadurch auch bessere Resultate. Ein Filament-Wechsel kann bei PLA bereits so bei 135 Grad geschehen, dabei werden gleich unliebsame Partikel mit aus der Heizkammer herausgezogen. Und ein Einbrennen aufgrund langer Wechselprozedur kann vermieden werden. Zu diesem Zweck kann man sich am Drucker ein Material-Profil erstellen und vor dem Material-Wechsel auswählen. Wenn man das nicht macht, dann findet ein Material-Wechsel immer mit der zuletzt gewählten Temperatur statt, die durchaus zu hoch gewählt sein könnte. Das Ganze könnte sich aber mit einer neueren Geräte-Firmware ändern. Der Material-Feeder besteht aus sehr wenigen Einzelteilen, sollte also auch für Anfänger nahezu selbst erklärend zerlegbar und zusammensetzbar sein. Die vier sichtbaren Schrauben halten die wenigen Teile inklusive Motor zusammen. Die einzige Schwierigkeit beim Zusammensetzen besteht darin die Schraublöcher des Motors zu treffen, da er etwas nach hinten rutscht, aber nicht herunter fällt. Die korrespondierende Verkleidung im Innenraum des Druckers wird nur mit einer einzigen Schraube an der linken Gehäuseseite gehalten. Es empfiehlt sich für eine bessere Handhabe also die Verkleidung vorher zu entfernen. Markus

Interessant warum manche über WD40 anders denken. Eventuell war WD40 vor ein paar Jahren in der Zusammensetzung anders. Mich würde auch interessieren nach wie vielen Betriebsstunden die Sinterlager ersetzt werden sollten, bzw. was man allgemein von der Ultimaker-Lösung für die X/Y-Achsen halten kann?

Hello Mario, I think with some help here you can get your UM2 to a good machine. Response times are sometimes very long, but often very helpful. Ultimaker is as far as I know still a very small company. They have sold a lot of machines, there are probably a lot of inquiries daily. A great job for a few. Maybe you write another request, if you've been waiting for a long time. I'm very curious how it will help you. But I am confident that Ultimaker will find a solution with you. Markus

Wow, that's a lot of money in addition. The respective tax can affect not a manufacturer. Shipping costs outside Europe are usually very high because of expensive things probably a transport insurance is included. Also, customs duties are different everywhere. I know all relationships are not accurate. Most often it is better to wait until a large local dealer buys many machines and then sold to the locals. If I want to buy something outside of Europe, I am facing the same problems. Ultimaker is certainly endeavor to grant any access to its machines worldwide. This is good, but probably very difficult to realize. Markus

Edit: Annahme! In den kleinen schwarzen Kästchen sind Sinterlager, diese haben Notlaufeigenschaften. Im Vergleich zu Linearlagern unterliegen sie aber einem höheren Verschleiß. Nach 40-60 Betriebsstunden jeweils pro Welle ein Tröpfchen Öl sollte ausreichen. Annahme Ende Bezüglich WD40 bin ich etwas verunsichert, da es ein paar ablehnende Meinungen gibt. WD40 ist eventuell nicht Harz-/ Säure-//-Frei. Ich nutze Nähmaschinen-Öl oder Waffen-Öl (Ballistol). Das vermutlich jedem Ultimaker2 beiliegende Fett ist exklusiv für die Spindel der Bauplattform. Es reicht wohl für knapp zehn Anwendungen, grob geschätzt für 5 Jahre. Denn regulär 1 mal rauf und runter pro Druckobjekt ist nicht gerade eine sonderlich große Belastung für die Mechanik. Eine Reinigung der Spindel war bisher auch noch nicht erforderlich, aber das ist sicher stark von der Umgebung abhängig. Markus

Hello Mario,, I can understand your anger very well. I had many thoughts just like yours. At first I did not recognize whether the machine is working correctly. For any issues we have I had to find suitable answers. That was a long process. After nearly two months of experimentation and nearly 1500 grams filament (scrap) and slight modifications, my UM2 produces reliably good to very good results. Also, I have destroyed a temperature sensor due to inexperience, but I got fast and free replacement. But I have also implemented an idea that has helped my machine to more independence. The machine is certainly not perfect, but with the support here in the forum you could get it if you want to try it. You will also need some technical understanding. There are many experienced and helpful people here. 1: 3mm filament might work better if you put the lower opening of the small funnel fits somewhat. The filament should pass with little hand strength. 2: The reliability of the machine and improve the print quality you could optimize if you try out the described here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4145-small-question-about-material-feeder/?p=35649 3: Hot Print can improve material flow through the nozzle. Print colder it makes the filament transport heavy, but protects against even before burn-in. 4: Cura is constantly evolving. Do you have the latest version on your computer and the latest firmware in the Ultimaker? 5 Here I am, unfortunately, asks ... 6: Drag the little white plug. Check whether both metal contacts to the same depth sit in the plastic housing. Reconnect the electrical connector back on. 7: A Bowden clip from PLA would break quickly, it would have to be produced from ABS. The small bracket could also be replaced by a very narrow cable ties. 8: It would be a shame to give up, but surely everyone has a different amount of patience. Markus

Hello gr5, Immediately after printing, the object looked very distorted, but it was the lighting. In the first image, the average rounding almost looks like a raindrop. In the physical view, it looked a lot worse. But the UM2 has actually done a good job, when viewed from a different perspective you could see it. I thought you might recognize it very well on the first image. Markus