maartenw

Thanks for the reply, ahoeben. You cab see the difference on the dimension indications: In the case of 4.3.0 the height is 10.1 (acceptable), for 4.6.2 the height is 2.6 (mm). The perspectives are the same for the pictures shown, but I had to include the error message, so the total picture is different. I imported the same picture again, now for the Color Model 'Doorschijnend' (Transparant?), leaving the new field to the default 50. Now the dimension is the same as for Cura 4.3.0. The import again results in the error message. After empting the platform and reimporting, the result is identical, bit no error message appears. Closing Cura, restarting and then reimport shows the same result with - again - the error message. Import using the Color Model as 'Doorschijnend'. Give the result: I hope this helps tackling the problem. -> Where can I find a clarification on the new fields 'Color Model', and 'Doorschijnendheid' (Transparancy)?

I imported the same picture in Cura_4.3.0 and in Cura_4.6.2. I see now that a field has been added to the import window: Color model. The import window for Cura 4.3.0 is: What results in: The import window for Cura 4.6.2 is: With the result: ( Cura 4.6.2 shows an error importing the same picture. )

I import a jpg picture in Cura 4.6.2, but the base and height are interpreted totally wrong. In Version 4.3.0 it was OK - as it was for many years in former versions! Something must have changed between 4.4.1 and 4.5 apparently. Please, repair this bug!

Hi John, I came accross the Bondtech extruder when I had extreme and irregular underextrusion problems. I searched the forum and looked at the Zero gravity design. For this design, several items have to be 3D printed which should have thermal and structural stability. Impossible to make with a printer having underextrusion problems... The link to this design is: In this post also the Bondtech extruder is mentioned. Looking further for this Bondtech, I found this post made by Ataraxis: I just followed this post. Now the mentioned Bondtech extruder is sold as a UM2 upgrade, but it is what Ataraxis described and functions excellently om my UMO. Indeed the delivered wires are a bit short, but useable. Be aware the Steps/mm for the extruder has to be adjusted - I made an adjustment in the start-GCODE in CURA to make sure this value is used on the UMO (and in your case on the UMO only). I asked a confirmative question to Bondtech about which specific Bondtech to order. This question was answered really quickly and friendly. Btw: I also exchanged the bowden for a PTFE tube, also supplied by Bondtech. Good luck!

Hi John, in march 2016 I replaced the drivers for the X and Y-axis only, and got (and still have) a nice and quite UMO. So what you could do is set back the driver for the Z-axis (it doesn't make a lot of noise) and for the extruder. Recently I replaced the extruder for a Bondtech one and finally got a reliable feed without underextrusion. It's been a long time ago, but I do not recall the steps/mm had to be changed. Maybe I am wrong, but I would suggest to double check on that.

Maybe you should contact Tenlog for a possible upgrade for the (tenson),def,json files. Or, maybe on a Tenson user forum (if it exists) you may have success. On the Tenlog's website I still see the Cura 4.4 version only. So maybe it is wise at this time to uninstall Cura 4.6.1 and go back to the version supplied with your printer. Sad, but wise for the moment.

Rod, does this solve your problem too?

Aaaarrrghhh, I would NEVER have found this simple hidden feature without you! Only by bringing the cursor to the very right hand side of the addition window the scrollbar pops up. Thanks a lot for this help!

I also have a problem in adding a new printer (non-Ultimaker). For now, I use Cura only for my UMO printer, but intend to invest in an affordable different one too. When trying to add a new printer, only Ultimaker printers are in the list, but no possibiity is shown of adding a third party printer. What do I overlook? I understand files should exist in the resources/definitions, extruders and meshes folders (Windows 10) and these are found there definitively. But how should I use those files in order to use Cura for these printers too?

Versie ?

Je kunt met CURA de gcode bestuderen en zien of de lagen correct worden geprint. Je kunt zelf in de gcode zoeken naar de opdracht de z-as een laagje op te schuiven. Je kunt voor de zekerheid de z-as nog eens smeren en een aantal keren op-en-neer bewegen.

It shouldn't be too difficult to find suppliers in your country. When searching for 'Neoceram nederland' I found 2 possible suppliers both active in the heater / furnace area. I guess also the name Robax and/or Vitroceram are used for the same.

Kies in Expert: Switch to full settings. Dan in tab Advanced staat onder Speed: Infill speed (mm/s)

In Cura (2.3.1) I can export a material as a .xml.fdm_material file. I am not successfull in importing such file to add a new material. What is the correct procedure to create / change and import a material file?

Ben benieuwd naar de mogelijkheden voor printen met 2 materialen bij een UMO+. (Ook al gaat het over de UM3 ;-) ).

Wauw! What a silent machine I got! I exchanged the drivers for the X and Y axis only, and now the noise of the (SilentFan) is the 'only' noise I hear. On purpose I did not replace the drivers for the Z and E1/E2 motors. At Vref=0.8 the motors did not move stable, now at Vref=1.2 the print is running smoothly. I exchanged the wire positions for the X and Y motors as described by @mariuszem. This way I can at all times still use the firmware as delivered with CURA. @ataraxis : thank you so much for making my UMO a more user-friendly machine!

There seems to be a problem with the selection within the category. When you select the catagory and call it up in a separate tab, it shows "404 not found". Stripping all tekst in the URL starting with the question-mark gives a decent list of subjects. Any selection from the "Latest", "All Topics" shows the "404 Not found" message. So probably nothing wrong with the Firefox cache. Most likely its the forum server's software:(

However this may not be a solution, would it be possible to increase the thickness of the bottom and top layer? This should be considered as a workaround, not a solution, but I guess the wedding will not wait for your beautifull plate to be ready.

And to bring in some light in the dark: How does your tweek look like? (maybe you can show with the line before and after the fan-line)

Unfortunately the links to the original pictures don't work anymore. ekh: your analysis could be right. So I made 2 cylinders 2.5 cm high. One 'as usual', the second with a load of 450 g at the backside of the buildplate. As the banding problem has been much reduced already, not much difference is seen, if any. Still your analysis is correct: without much force the buildplate can be rotated is (very) little, so when the friction comes from the left and right axis, the plate could lower in an irregular pattern. This could mean that the design would have to be changed to a setup having two screws. Difficult to realise in the existing UMO, but worth considering for future design. So now the big question remains: how can it be sure that the buildplate lowers regularly and remains perfectly horizontal?

Coen, first of all: beautifull design! But about the problem:: from the first 1 pictures it is seen that the blue tape is often used, and maybe worn out. The banding is in the same direction as the taperuns. So could you replace the tape (everywhere) and make a first layer to see whether the band still exists?

Gr5, thanks for your comment. I apologize for this late reaction. I looked at your advise to create my own formware, but I was reluctant doing this not knowing how this firmware would work together with each Cura version. On the other hand I made a separate wire from the fan connection at the electronic board beneath the bottom of the printer all the way to the fan at the printhead, which is lead at the outside of the printer and spiralized at the outside around the bowden tube. This works perfect! At any fan speed the temperature reading is constant AND when I bring the wire close (I mean close!) to the wire from the temperature sensor to the small pcb om top of the printhead, also the temperature reading is NOT influenced.

Interesting! Could the temperature noise be related to the item described in fan-speed-influences-reading-temperature-hot-end (and links)? Could you post a picture indicating where you soldered the capacitor?

A long time after working (not solving) on the reported banding problem (https://ultimaker.com/en/troubleshooting/view/5901-undesired-horizontal-ridges-on-regular-distance?page=1#reply-44932) I took my printer (Ultimaker-1) again to produce some prints. The prints using flexible polyester looked fine enough, but - same as for former prints using PLA - the layer bonding had to be improved. So I thought of decreasing the fan speed, which was till now kept at 100%. For this decreased fan speed I found the print was of very low quality, worse than before and made me think of hot-end temperatures lower than the one set. So I started to investigate. And yes, the temperature reading is strongly influence by the fan speed. I set the fan speed on the Ultimaker controller and quickly changed back to the main screen to read the reported temperature. Most of the times the reading was more than 10 'C higher than the set value. In a former discussions (https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/6307-um-1-temperature-jumps-with-fan) and (https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/6254-ultimaker-1-maxtemp-triggered-by-cooling-fan) it was mentioned that the wire connected to the fan had to be kept at a distance of minimal 10 mm from the wires coming directly from the thermocouples. This is impossible to realise as long as these wires all are through the upper part of the printhead. So the fan wire had to be taken out of the printhead and be given a route outside of this head. To accomplish this I had to dismantle the head, and I decided to finally install the second hot-end, which I had on the shelf for a long time already. After a lot of work, the print head with the dual hot-end was assembled. Now I could find whether the distance between the fan wire and the wires from the thermocouples was an improvement for the temperature reading. For the measuring, the fan was disconnected to start with, and connected after setting the fan speed with the Ultimaker controller. I noted the reported stabilised temperature at 0% fanspeed, then set the fan speed to a number (0..255) and then - after switching to the main screen - connected the fan shortly. The reported temperature did not depend on the set fan speed, but changed immediately after connecting the fan. In table form (lines reported in the sequence as tested): Fan temperature speed set read 0 250 250 2 250 246 4 250 249 8 250 249 20 250 249 30 250 263 40 250 267 50 250 267 70 250 264 99 250 258 (MAXTEMP) after restart: 100 250 267 (MAXTEMP) after restart: 255 250 250 125 250 264 151 250 264 175 250 262 200 250 263 225 250 261 240 250 250 250 250 250 235 250 250 230 250 250 225 250 262 227 250 260/252 (quick variation) 225 250 264/259 (quick variation) (Sorry for the bad lay-out, I could not create a decent table. A list is showing bad as well....) It is clear that between 25 and 230 a great difference exists between the 'real' temperature and the reported one. The conclusion thus can be that a distance of more than 10 mm between the fan wires and the wires from the thermocouples is NOT solving the problem. It is also not worsening... So I twisted the fan wires to prevent signals to be sent from the wires. This had the same results as reported above. Next I layed the printer on its side and after disconnecting the fan from the printhead connected it directly to the electronics in the bottom of the printer. And YES! The temperature was stable for all fanspeeds when the fan was connected directly to the electronics. To check, the connection was made as original, where the fan was connected through the long original wiring at the print head, and the reported temperature was deviating as in the table again. So the conclusion can be that the long wiring from the electronics in the bottom of the printer to the printhead influences in some way the reported temperature. How can I get a long wire (1.50 m) with the right connectors to connect the fan directly to the electronics and give this wire a separated route?

Problem solved in 14.05RC02 (same XP machine...) ! Thanks!