anon4321

When you redesign for GT2, you need to indicate what length you are supporting. 303 GT2 belts have a center-to-center distance of 283.00mm (for 20 teeth pulleys) vs the MXL 300 c-to-c distance of 284.48mm. That missing 1.48mm seems to make a big difference. 305 GT2 belts have a c-to-c distance of 285.00mm or .52mm MORE than the 300 MXL belts. Also, for some reason, possibly just my machine or the way I printed them, there wasn't enough room in the left-right direction to fit the 6mm rod without binding the bushings on the front-to-back 8mm rods. The back to front distance between the blocks seemed fine with 1-2mm of play. I used this for the distance calc: https://sdp-si.com/eStore/CenterDistanceDesigner

Ordering from Ultimaker is really getting problematic. To the point that I'm not longer ordering items from them. I ordered a fan pack, thermocouple sensor & transmitter TEN days ago. Opened a ticket to get the status and got some response: "I have send your request to our logistic department. They will ship your order shortly." I still haven't received a shipment notification. I'm now at the point that I'm ordering knock-offs from e-bay for various parts because I don't want to do business with UM any longer. That's bad when you drive customers to the point of no longer wanting to give you money.

Yes, at least in AP mode. Cura automatically "sees" the doodle3d and it shows up in place of the floppy disk icon between the load and YM icons at the top of the 3d window.

Jonny, Don't want to discourage you but I can pretty much guarantee the twisterblocks won't work unmodified with the 303 GT belts. I sort of got them to fit be heating a knife and slicing off the "tab" of this part (shown towards the back of the photo): https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/files.youmagine.com/uploads/image/file/42380/export.png Unfortunately, the belts then slip in the block so you need to had some thin friction material. I used dry wall sanding screen: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51KS4JXE2NL.jpg cut to fit between the belt and block. It locked the belt up quite well. However, it was all a pain to assemble requiring a slip wrench to compress the tab to put the screws in. IMO, not worth the trouble. The reptar blocks might work. The only thing I don't like about them is they require non-metric or non-machine screws and standoffs to assemble. I really wish someone with more CAD skills would remix them to use the leftover hardware from the UM1. Seems kind of strange to have to go out and buy hardware and standoffs that could be replaced with printed parts and the metric machine hardware. Good luck.

I had significant problems with the twisterblocks. To the point of smoking several drivers before I figured out the two problems. First, the blocks in the X direction did not provide enough distance between them to fit the 6mm rod. The result was that there was excessive pressure on the 8mm rods that run back to front causing binding at the ends. Basically, the middle was forced to bow and of course the ends are restricted so binding occurs. On top of that, I decided to upgrade to GT2 belts and pulleys and in doing so order 303 toothed belts that don't have any slack. While the twisterblocks don't have any tension adjustment, they are designed with the slack of the stock belts in mind. So using the slightly shorter GT2 belts are a nightmare with the blocks. I had so much problems with them, I went back to the original blocks and belts. However, in the process, I think I damaged the linear bushings as I noticed a small BB that looked like a small solder blob after inserting the rods and actually smoked some drivers. What a nightmare.... I'm sure they are good, just be aware that you might experience issues with them and check both the distance between them and know that the tension isn't adjustable so if you have shorter belts, there is NO way to remove the default tension they assume are required.

Is it ABS or PLA?

You can only control the outputs within the limits of the firmware. You need to find a function you can leverage. Peeking at the firmware changes for the Z probe stuff. It looks like you would rebuild the firmware for the number of servos or PWM outputs you require and then you can use in your GCODE. M280 P{servo number} S{angle} Servos are numbered starting at 0. There is a little more info here: https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin Search for leveling Oh, here is a better link: http://3digitalcooks.com/2013/12/setup-servo-with-marlin/ on the UM1 shield, the servo connectors appear to be next to the two 10 pin connectors in the middle of the board. Appears that only two servos are supported and the pins are not populated so you will need to solder them on. Be careful with large servos. The connectors appear to be tapping into the 5V line to power the servos and I believe the 5V line comes from the Arduino's 5V regulator and that doesn't support much current. Probably about 500ma in total so if the servos are consuming more than 75ma * 2, you might be stressing/heating the 5V regulator.

Seems pretty straightforward. The only thing I think would be difficult is the discovery process. https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wiki/REST-API

So far the resistor solution is working. One downside to that particular model fan is it seems to regulate it's RPM. So much so within a few increments of the fan control value, the fan goes from off to barely running to full on. Like at 230 it is off, 233 it spins slowly by 237 its full on and doesn't seem to increase in speed as you go all the way to 255. So not a good model if you want to vary the air flow. Which is a shame because when it is "on" it moves quite a bit off air. All in all, I think I'm going to replace it with the model UM uses which I linked to above.

That mod disconnects the 5v line in the USB cable from the arduino so it is actually less likely to damage your computer. All the other protections built into the arduino still work and protect your PC. The jumper is required to take the onboard 5V to the ATMEGA16. I checked the ATMEGA's datasheet and this is how self powered (as opposed to USB powered) .configurations are done. I'm fairly sure that this mod won't hurt your PC but ANYTHING you do with respect to this type of mod has RISK So don't do it if you don't understand it.

You may have noticed especially if you have the ulticontroller that the electronics will be powered by the USB cable if you switch the primary power off. The problem is that I believe the ulticontroller draws more current than the arduino's USB power source can supply. This causes the resettable fuse on the arduino to kick in and cut the current only to reset and kick in again over and over. I see this as the ulticontroller to pulse or blink. As I'm old and my memory is crap this was a regular occurrence. ******** WARNING: YOU CAN DAMAGE YOUR ARDUINO PERFORMING THIS MOD ******** ******** DO THIS MOD AT YOUR OWN RISK ******* ******** IM NOT SURE THIS IS A VALID WAY TO DO THIS BUT IT WORKS FOR ME ******** After doing this, turning off the UM1 with the power switch causes everything to power off and the COM port disappears on the PC. Here is how to PERMANENTLY prevent the arduino mega 2560 R3 from drawing power from the USB connector. Unmodified vs. modified: First pic without annotations.

That was my finding. You can press them together pretty hard and not get the chug chug chug of the wooden straight gears. Furthermore, because the plastic is flexible, you get very little backlash and very little binding with the herringbone pattern. I'm not saying everyone should switch over. I did but it was more just to see if it could be done and how they wear over time. I will say getting the small gear on the stepper shaft was a pain in the butt! It is also difficult to get them aligned and unlike the straight cut set, they must be aligned due to the centering nature of the herringbone.

Just found that option. I think it provides what the OP was seeking.

It is a pleasure doing business with Jason HK! I was able to add the glass kit to my order shipping tomorrow. WOOT! He is very responsive.

oh Jason! I just ordered the HBP! Would love to have also ordered the glass kit.!

I printed and mounted those herringbone gears and found that they were easy to mesh with a good bit of tension without binding. In doing so, a majority of the backlash was eliminated. They do seem a little quieter too. Just skip the knob. Mine is still intact but because it is a loose fit it groans as the stepper vibrates the set. Retracts don't have the loud clunk of the wooden gear. it's a fun print for a newbie like me.

You guys really need to be more patient (Hi, kettle, I'm pot did you know you are black)?

So I can definitely report that not all 12v fans are happy with 19v even when the fan speed is lower than 255 like 100. A new fan instantly went up in smoke at 100 on the ulticontroller fan setting! I brought two of these. http://www.newark.com/nmb-technologies/2004kl-04w-b50-b00/axial-fan-50mm-12vdc-100ma/dp/58K7816?ost=58K7816 Little more expensive than most but they are 11 blade fans and my theory is this will help them generate better static pressure. Well one is toast now but that is why I brought two. To save the other one, I'm using a 67ohm 3/4 watt resistor in line. The datasheet for the fan at newark says it draws 100ma which is what I based my calculations on but the fan is labeled 140ma so I'm not sure the resistor can handle the power dissipation Anyway, At 100ma, that 67 ohm resistor will drop 6.7V from the 19V (my supply is actually 19.5v). So the fan will see about 12.3 volts or 12.7 volts for my supply. At 100ma, the power dissipation is 100ma * 6.7 or 670mw so the 750mw resistor should be OK. If the fan is running at 140ma, that is a 9.4 v drop so the fan is seeing something like 9.6 or 10.5 for my supply. The worst case power dissipation for the resistor is 140ma * 9.4v or 1316mw which is way above the resistor's spec so we will see if it goes up in smoke... BTW, the original fan model is 5010S but I don't know the manufacturers logo... Appears to be these: http://www.amazon.com/Brushless-Cooling-50x50x10mm-Sleeve-bearing-Skywalking/dp/B00BJCA5AI

I purchased a replacement fan and some 1w resistors and zeners to drop the voltage to the current level if needed. Actually, I got two fans in case I burn one and even a replacement transistor for the shield in case I smoke that too. We'll see how it goes....

So multiples of 0.001875mm ? I don't know if this is still accurate but this information says: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/ultimaker/rDneN2H0ixQ "On Saturday, February 23, 2013 10:24:05 PM UTC-5, wil21...@maricopa.edu wrote: 2. The lead of screw is 3mm, but I don't think this is a good choice. When the screw makes one rotation of 360°, the Z-plate rises up 3mm. The step angle of stepping motor is 1.8°, this means 0.015mm is the minimum step distance. So it is hard to reach the common layer height such as 0.1mm, 0.2mm. Perhaps, 2mm, 4mm or 5mm for lead of screw is better. The Z screw is pretty much the element with the highest resolution in the whole system, about 7x better than the XY. The Z stepper is driven with 1/8 steps, not with 1/1 steps as you mentioned above, so it has 200*8 steps / 3mm = 533.333 steps/mm or 0.001875mm per step (8 times better than what you mentioned above)... so, why is the 3mm acme screw a bad idea? and how would a 2mm, or a 4mm, or a 5mm lead screw improve anything?

I've had my issues with the ordering process which are documented in another thread. However, I recommend you send a PM to SandervG. He will help you get things straightened out. UM does seem to care about their customers but sometimes the process is a little choppy.

So I broke my fan that is on the hotend (don't ask but lets just say that if you are leveling the bed and the fan is on from an aborted print, make sure you don't poke the hex driver into the running fan thinking you are clear of it while attempting to get to the bed screw!) Previously, someone tried to add a second fan and blew the transistor on the shield. During that discussion, it became apparent that the fan is running at 19v which is MUCH higher than most 12v fans specify as the maximum voltage which is usually 13.8. Has anyone replaced their fan with a different 12v fan? Do you have any problems? What make of fan did you use?

So I recently had to replace a bunch of drivers (don't ask, I'm stupid). The goal is to have enough current so you don't miss steps. So I put the drivers in (with the power off, obviously) and very gently turned the screw to the limit in the counterclockwise direction. Then I power on and use the ulticontroller to drive the axis around. When the axis is moving, I try to stop if with my hand. Fully counterclockwise, it stops easily. So I powered off, turned like a 1/4 and powered on and repeat. It still seemed to skip with very little pressure. So power off, tweak like 1/20 and repeat. I did this until I felt there was enough force before skipping. Using this method, you are feeling the force that makes it to the head. At that point, you don't need a lot of force to move the head around. Using this method adjusts the current for the the drag/friction of the belts in each axis. I tuned them a little more than the force I felt was required so that high step rates don't skip. For the extruder, I just tried to stop the big gear while it rotated. I actually need to turn that one down, the stepper has been running pretty hot. For the Z axis I don't think much force is required. Just test by trying to hold the coupler. It's obviously subjective. Try to find the sweet spot of just enough current to prevent missing steps at high speed and changes in direction. By the way, I measured the vref of the driver that came with the UM1. It was .67 which I believe works out to 1.675 amps.

Hmmm that is a good point. Problem is, so does the downward pressure of the feeler gauge so it is hard to know the "feel" unlike say a spark plug that is rigid at both points. the feel is different is you are even slightly pressing down on the feeler. I've even seen the gap change from the weight of the hex driver that came with the UM1 kit. I guess if comes down to consistency. If you know that 10.7 cm under the pressure of the gauge works for the front and 10.5 for the back then at least you can repeat prints without fussing around with the first layer or two. Are there any gauges with a very light spring pressure?

did you go with the kit of assembled?