Jump to content

Anders Olsson

Ambassador
  • Content Count

    252
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

Everything posted by Anders Olsson

  1. Interesting news, but I would like to know more about the compete process, costs and the materials available. As you probably read in the Form 1+ thread, using this technique it is quite a sticky process with several steps of post-processing including chemicals and UV-light. The resin is expensive and both resin and the printing bucket needs to be replaced regularly. I expect the Carbon3D to require similar post-processing and to have similar or higher printing costs (the membrane that can let oxygen through sounds expensive for example) There is also a limited range of materials that can be printed with this technique. It is not very likely that we will see materials filled with metal particles for example. So as much as I like the idea, I think the simplicity, low cost and versatility of FDM-printers is quite a challenge to beat. I agree though that Form 1+ might get a difficult competitor once Carbon3D reaches the market, but I also think that these machines generally might end up as the sidekick to the Ultimaker, not the other way around. I might be wrong though, only time can tell :smile:
  2. Print them the way they are oriented when downloaded (the internal part in your image should be the other way around). You can generally use default settings for PLA / ABS. (But make sure that you adjust the diameter setting if your filament is not 2,85 mm) The design was made to be as forgiving as possible, so I don't expect you to end up with problems printing it. Unless maybe if you use the blue Ultimaker PLA, which is notoriously difficult to print. The torque will vary a bit between ABS, PLA and XT, but they are all within the limits. I generally use the ABS version, which has the lowest torque of the three. There is actually quite a lot of information in the description/comments by the way: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nozzle-torque-wrench :smile:
  3. Try Daid's thread-model! The threads by TrevM, the way they look in the previous posts here, are not very suitable for 3D-printing. You need a model that generates threads that, when scrolling through the slices, looks like an oscillating circle. The slicing needs to be done in a way that preserves this shape. In TrevM's model you have flat surfaces that disrupts that oscillating circle, that model will be very difficult print a nice thread from. Here is an example of a M42x1mm thread that i have printed and used: I have printed perfectly fine M6x1 and M5x0.8 threads using 0.1 mm layers this way.
  4. It was discussed not long ago, check this topic: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/10141-nickel-plating-nozzles-for-carbon-filled-filaments/?p=98311
  5. I had and enclosure on my "to do list" for a long time now. Eventually I decided to build something quick and cheap just to get it done. I found two suitable plastic boxes at "Clas Ohlson" and after minor modifications they were transformed into this: :smile: The main functionality I was looking for is a slightly higher, stable temperature and noise reduction. I am planing to add some kind of air purifier later on.
  6. For the 99% flow bug, I reported that one five months ago but apparently it has not been fixed yet. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7764-underextrusion-when-flow-is-set-below-100/?p=72702 https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin/issues/42 I did another test to check if it still is there, and yes it is: I believe this bug can potentially cause a lot of unnecessary support-tickets, so it would be good if Ultimaker would fix it at some point. Regarding under extrusion and the V15 of the firmware, this in an interesting one. Lately, I also observed slight underextrusion which appears be a software issue rather than anything mechanical. I will do some more printing and roll back to an older version to test this on my machine too.
  7. Comparing different nozzle designs is something I wanted to do for a long time. Both me and my Ultimaker has been way too busy to though, so I have only concluded that the difference between E3D and the original UM2 nozzle is small enough to not obviously have negative impact on the things I print. The interesting thing though is that an exchangeable nozzle like the E3D is quite cheap and easy to manufacture, so if one come up with a better design and can order them in the hundreds it might be feasible to start producing such nozzle :smile: Anyway, I encourage you to start testing different nozzle desings! One obvious nozzle to start with is the UMO (which actually fits, although it is much larger). Another is the Delta Tower nozzle, which looks like the E3D on the outside but according to a rumor is improved somehow. Now when I think about it, I am almost prepared to sacrifice an original heater block for science to make something out of the nozzle part that can fit in the custom heater block :smile: One thing that I have observed by the way is that it appears the plastic gets a bit softer at the same temperature setting with the custom heater block. The longer melt zone would explain this. In practice I often print 5 degrees cooler than I did with the original block. This might also affect the quality of overhangs.
  8. Firmware 14.06.1 and older had bugs that affected bed leveling. There is a thread about it here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5935-z-axis-homing-inconsistent-on-um2-workaround-and-patch/
  9. I am currently printing XT-CF20 with a E3D brass nozzle, so I might be able to give you a report on the wear soon :smile: If you think stainless nozzles is good enough, you could consider upgrading the heater block to get exchangeable nozzles: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2/ And buy stainless nozzles from E3D: http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Extra-Nozzles/v6-Extra-Nozzle-Stainless-Steel-3mmx0.4mm I have been in various discussions on plating nozzles and I might involve in that at some point in the future. I would go for plated exchangeable nozzles like the E3D though rather than trying to plate the original heater block.
  10. The sensitivity of the monitoring function was further decreased in the 15.01 firmware, so if you did not upgrade yet, do that first! More information on this topic can be found here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/9442-soften-heater-temp-error-detection-um2/
  11. I took some photos of how my heater block has to sit to get enough clearance to the fan cap: Make sure that there is some space both on the side and towards the bottom, and problems with dropping temperatures when the cooling fans comes on should be gone. It is tight already on the original block and even tighter with the custom heater block, so most likely you have to keep the custom block a bit higher than the original block. I am not too worried about increased pressure on the teflon spacer. The force from the spring only increases about 10% when compressing it 1 mm extra. This is as much as the two springs I have at home differs in force when compressed to the same length. So I think there is some margin for slightly increased force on the teflon spacer.
  12. I had a look at the PTFE-spacer again yesterday: It has logged 225 hours now with the 1 mm Vespel washer protecting it now. Since I missed logging some prints it probably has been running 250-300 hours by now though. I have been switching back and forth between ABS and PLA, and the last few hours I printed XT-CF20. No problems at all so far. Swordriff will hopefully have similar washers "I2K", available soon for those of you who want to try. I am thinking of making a more advanced version of the spacer, taking advantage of both PTFE, Vespel and a heat sink. Hopefully there will be time to try this at some point.
  13. I have mostly been printing ABS on my UM2 and have been using ABS from Ultimaker, Velleman and E3D. As far as I can tell, they don't differ much. The torque wrench came out quite nice in some really cheap ABS from E3D for example: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nozzle-torque-wrench (not sure if this is the same ABS as E3D sell currently though) Anyway, this is one reason why I like ABS, that it tends to be very predictable. I can simply print any of my ABS brands/colors at the same settings and I get very similar results.
  14. This is an interesting topic. When it comes to ease of use I prefer metric, mainly because we don't use fractions, but decimal numbers. Form an engineers point of view though, the application of the metric system makes things quite ugly some times. Just look at metric screws, where pitch and sizes are just even numbers in metric and has nothing to do with optimizing the properties of the screw. The gap between M6 and M8-screws for example, or the fact that M5 has a pitch comparable to fine thread where most other normal pitch metric screws are in between coarse and fine. One can be a bit clever when designing things that will reach the world market though. For critical dimensions for example, use 12,7 mm instead of 13 and 25,4 instead of 25. That way you end up with a reasonable number both in metric and in imperial units. The same thing goes for screws. If you can use M5-threaded holes, they will be compatible with UNF #10-32 screws too :smile:
  15. You might have a problem with the fan shroud hitting the platform: http://ultimaker.com/en/ultimaker-original/view/78-quality1 Apart from that, I see no particular reason why it would not work. I have only tested the other way around, UMO-nozzle fitted to the custom heater block on the UM2, and it worked fine.
  16. The second batch is looking better than the first batch when it comes to the alignment of the sensor/heater with respect to the locking screw. It requires much less torque to fix the sensor/heater than the first batch. While it is not really a problem on the first batch, it is always nice when things come out the way they were designed :smile: The aluminum version has not been tested yet as my printer is busy. I am not sure aluminum is a suitable material, but it is interesting to try as it has very good heat conductivity and much lower mass than brass.
  17. Regarding the second batch, they are being machined right now: The guy in the workshop had an idea about making them in aluminum. I don't know if that is good or bad, but he made a few to try anyway :smile:
  18. Great update swordriff! Thank you for all the effort you put on this, it would have been impossible for me to do this alone. I have updated the first post in this thread with a link to your overview post. Regarding the name of the heater block, swordriff suggested 3Dsolex as a company name, so it kind of makes sense to use that name. But if people prefer to call it The Olsson Block, I don't mind :smile: I really enjoy taking part of all these reviews, photos of printed things, videos, and accessories designed for the heater block! It makes me feel like it was easily worth the time I spent on getting this thing accessible for other people! :smile:
  19. There is a lot of talk about difficulties printing soluble supports, as if it was some holy grail that has yet to be mastered. Our 5 year+ old Stratasys uPrint prints soluble supports perfectly fine though. It does not provide the same surface finish as the UM2 in general, and prints much thicker layers, but the soluble supports works just fine from what I have seen so far. So I don't agree with the opinion that it is some kind of unobtainable ultimate goal. It exists and has been working for many years at professional machines. Here is a video where you can see the head of the uPrint: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGj5TllQyRg And a document about it: http://www.amtekcompany.com/pdf/uPrintTipReplacementProcedure.pdf The uPrint, and most professional machines, does not support PLA though, which might make things easier. But I am still a bit surprised how it can be that difficult for Ultimaker to master PVA when Stratasys does it. EDIT: Or is Stratasys not using PVA for the soluble supports? I have to look into this..
  20. You can buy stainless steel nozzles from E3D: http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Extra-Nozzles If you want to fit them to the Ultimaker 2 series, you need this heater block: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2/ or something similar that can fit M6 threaded nozzles.
  21. If you use PLA, it is likely that the overhang on the springs will be a bit rough like that. I printed a few in Ultimaker blue PLA and they came our quite ugly. My spool of Ultimaker blue is by far the worst unfilled material I ever printed by the way (!) However, there is plenty of space for rough overhangs inside the torque wrench, so it will work even if it looks ugly :smile: The one in my picture on youmagine was printed in E3D blue ABS and I think I might have used some fan, that is why it came out really nice. If you use ABS you should be careful with too much fan though, since it can affect layer adhesion.
  22. Oh, that is possible. I think I might have had a polycarbonate setting on the SD-card which had the temperature set higher than 260C. I never would have figured that out.. :smile: Thank you for your reply!
  23. I had problems with imported SD material settings disappearing form the printer after power cycling: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin/issues/68 Anyone else experienced this? (I recommend to back up your SD-file before playing with this, it is very easy so overwrite the file on the SD card by accident)
  24. Good idea and nice design! I uploaded the optional hex hole version of the torque wrench by the way: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nozzle-torque-wrench
  25. That model is very suitable for printers with heavy head though, like the Flashforge, since the head does not have to change direction often and the most sudden changes in direction is in the infill. Most things I design look very different. They often end up with lots of narrow sections with varying width and 100% infill. When printing with the UM2, the head is just rattling back and forth making a buzzing sound, almost magically making that infill faster than the eye can capture. The torque wrench housing that I linked to in previous posts is a good example. The common understanding is that printers carrying three motors on the gantry/head, like the Flashforge, will be significantly slower than light head printers like the UM2 when printing infill on narrow sections since the head is too heavy to accelerate that quickly. Now, if it turns out that the light head of the UM2 has no advantage over the heavy Flashforge head at narrow sections infill, the design of the UM2 is kind of dead in my opinion. That is because the direct feeder has obvious advantages for precision extrusion and the Flashforge gantry design allows for linear ball bearings on all axis, which has advantages when it come to friction and precision. That is why I keep on asking about for a video of something which requires a lot of acceleration (which I have not seen the Flashforge doing yet). It would be interesting to see this one printed by the Flashforge for example: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:289650 Preferably cranking up the speed a bit more than I did:
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!