flowalistik

I think that super mega hype upgrade kit you're suggesting won't exist for one small reason: the UMO+ and UM2 family are focused on different type of users. It's really cool, and between you and me (and everyone on the internet), I prefer the UMO+. I've upgraded it UM2 printhead and feeder motor, and it's really nice. And as you can install the UM2+ upgrade kit, it can be even better. The coolest part is that you don't have to hack almost anything (small firmware update and printing an adapter). Buying more spare parts and drilling the frame may be too much for someone who just bought it's UMO+, but for people who already have an Ultimaker 3D printer, this ideas are great! @neotko I'm proud of you, keep destroying and torturing Ultimakers for the sake of the community!

As a graphic designer, I see it as one of the easiest things to do. Not the line design, which is complex, but tthe extrusion of that shape and the 3D model creation. In my case, when I've had to design something similar I did a vectorial design (normally with Adobe Illustrator) and then exported the vector file. Then choose any 3D design program (Solidworks for example) and import the design and extrude the shape. That's it! Of course, with Cura and Simplify you have the option to import JPEGs and extrude them, but it's not that precise and you can't control many aspects of the results print. The fastest would be to import an image in Cura and extrude it. If you have some more time, create the line design and extrude it with almost any 3D modeling software.

So, in the end it's not that much of a problem! You just need to know where to buy things, and definitely China is not the best place to find Ultimaker compatible produccts. And based on my experience with couplers, it's much better to spend more on 1 good coupler than buying 20 from China, because you will end up breaking some cables (fan, heater, sensor...) while changing them. :angry:

Ahem. Big brother Ultimaker and especially small brother 3dSolex are seeing this... Arrrghhh. I want to apologize with anyone (Ultimaker, 3dSoler, users...) who may feel I've betrayed them. Shame on me. After that GoT style moment, just say that I get regularly asked by people that know that I have an Ultimaker about the compatibility with 1.75mm filament. I know it's possible to adapt the Ultimaker to 1.75mm filament, but I don't know the price and the complexity of the process. And for sure, I know @neotko has spent A LOT of time tweaking with his printers to get them work with that filament. It would be really useful to have a list of materials needed to transform it as there's some people who already have 1.75mm printers and they want to add a beautiful Ultimaker to their collection.

Shhhhhh. Let him buy everything. He's like the Mythbusters: he buys things that no one would buy just to show the world what they should or shouldn't buy (just change buy with blow up to see how Savage our friend Neotko is). BTW, Neotko, I have a question. How much would it cost to transform an UM2/UMO+ to 1.75mm filament? Everything considering I got everything from China, of course. ;D

Wow, we've all wasted a lot of filament! I've never had a very big fail, but it happens a lot that a print fails when it's about to finish. I think my biggest failed print was 8 hours, not more, but I also don't remember printing anything that took more than 10-11 hours. @LesHall you're not alone. I'm a big fan of the lines, as it reminds me it was 3D printed. I always use very big layer heights when printing with wood or metal based filaments so I can post-process them really nice and still show the lines. @LePaul that filament issue is really common, as the inner diameter is really small the filament is curved, and if you try to stretch it, it just breaks. I usually change the spool when there's 1/5 left and I use it on my Prusa i3 as it's less picky with filament curvature. @Titus I've also had some failed prints because of the things I keep inside the printer (it's Ultimaker's fault for making their printer box-shaped, as it makes me want to use it as a tool box).

Which is the longest failed print you've ever experienced? For any reason, not only power loss. (this question goes for everyone)

You can choose the first image, but the rest will be ordered randomnly (thing that I would really really change).

A year ago I saw a building that looked badly 3D printed (skipping steps everywhere) and then I did a digital monsters project with some friends, and I chose to design buildings with typical 3D printing errors. I only did warping, but I guess the next one will need to be skipping steps.

Menos mal que era una cuestión del archivo STL, ya que solucionarlo suele ser más fácil que un problema mecánico. Acerca del ruido de la impresora, lamentablemente es algo con lo que hay que vivir. Yo estuve mucho tiempo con la impresora al lado y hay cosas que mejoran la situación ligeramente: - Imprimir unas patas de goma para reducir las vibraciones que se pasan a la mesa (sound dampener) - Ponerle una tapa al panel frontal y superior de la impresora. Hay muchas versiones caseras, y con esto se reduce ruido, olores y según donde imprimas y con qué material, mejora la calidad de impresión. - Si tienes una Ultimaker Original +, crear una pieza intermedia entre el feeder y la estructura de madera, ya que es como una caja de resonancia. Te dejo algunos enlaces para lo del ruido: https://www.youmagine.com/search/designs?utf8=%E2%9C%93&search=ultimaker+enclosure (cajas para aislar el interior de la impresora) https://www.youmagine.com/search/designs?utf8=%E2%9C%93&search=ultimaker+foot (pies anti-vibración para la impresora)

El problema de los círculos suele ser que los programas de diseño 3D crean un círculo/esfera, pero al exportarlo en formato STL se genera una malla poligonal, y si es de baja resolución lo que ocurrirá es que verás las caras que forman el círculo. El fichero del cilindro es el mismo que utilizabas con la UP Plus o es uno nuevo? También encontré un hilo del 2014 en el que hablan de diferentes programas y diseño de cilindros. Las imágenes ya no cargan, pero comentan que el problema no estaba en la impresora sino en Cura, y que con una versión antigua los cilindros salían con mejor resultado (debido a una gestión diferente del relleno). Te recomendaría que probases a imprimir el cilindro con el nozzle de 0.4mm, porque tal vez al intentar ir con mejor resolución de nozzle (0.25 en este caso), las caras que forman el cilindro pasan a ser visibles. El hilo en cuestión: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/6705-i-just-want-a-round-cylinder Comparte alguna foto y tal vez podamos encontrar el verdadero problema.

i installed the Ultimaker 2 feeder motor on the UMO+ and as I had some under extrusion problems I set the Esteps between 225-275. It's not precise, and in my case it depended on the model I was printing. If you want the exact Esteps, go to github and check the UM2 firmware (configuration.h), you will find the exact Esteps for the Ultimaker 2 feeder design.

[print=4438][/print]

La verdad es que no conozco ninguna forma de que siempre se mueva en la misma dirección, ya que el relleno, por defecto, va en diferentes direcciones entre capas para darle más rigidez. La semana pasada estuve en el Additive Manufacturing Show en Amsterdam y vi algunas piezas, todas impresas con 100% de relleno en dos direcciones y el resultado seguía siendo impresionante. Comparte alguna foto del resultado, así vemos lo bien que queda, y con suerte se nos ocurre alguna forma de ver como mejorar la transparencia.

Lo primero ¿De qué quieres que sea el curso? Por experiencia, casi siempre lo mejor es buscar el mejor curso en inglés y pasarlo por Google Translate. Algunas cosas quedarán raras, pero el contenido que hay online en inglés es bastante mayor que en otros idiomas. También te recomendaría que pasases por el subforo en Español de Ultimaker (está abajo del todo), ya que siendo todo el foro en inglés, casi nadie va a poder ayudarte al no entenderte.

Mi experiencia con filamento flexible se limita al FlexPLA de Ultimaker, el cual es bastante menos flexible que el Filaflex. Normalmente los filamentos flexibles se llevan mal con los sistemas bowden, pero por suerte es con el filamento de 1.75mm. Con el filamento de 3mm no debería haber problema, aunque para piezas estéticas hay que tener en cuenta que el acabado del filamento flexible no suele ser el mejor, ya que hay que imprimir a alta temperatura y las propiedades del material no invitan demasiado a hacer puentes en los diseños. Yo he utilizado filamento flexible sobre todo para piezas impresoras, sobre todo aquellas que vibran bastante (soportes de motores o extrusores), y funcionan bastante bien. Con Filaflex posiblemente reduzcan más y mejor la vibración.

I upgraded my UMO+ with the Ultimaker 2 printhead and feeder motor and if I have some time in the future I'll install the sliding blocks upgrade, as it's really sad for a maker to see part of the printing bed inaccessible. The printhead and feeder upgrade is really easy compared to the blocks upgrade, so it can me done in a different moment.

Nice tutorial! Now the UMO+ is more like a steampunk UM2+!

Arjan already linked it, but here's another one I made myself I did this for another type of thing, a small paperclip, printed 6 hours straight on a venue I've watched the video at least three times, only for the music. Funky music suits perfectly continuous printing systems!

Arg, I can't find the video, but I once saw a video showing a 3D printer doing a similar thing. I believe it was printing one of those flexible bracelets, and the 3D printer had a modified gcode which made the printhead push the bracelet once it was printed and start over again and again. Your approach looks more interesting (the belt idea looks pretty interesting), but the automatic printing from the video I saw was on blue tape and it would have lost the adhesion properties after some prints. I know it's impossible, but I'd create a gcode that printed the design randomly in any place of the printbed several times, so the glue/blue tape wouldn't get damaged in the same spot every time. Just dreaming.

na na na na na na na na na na BATLAMP! My latest design, a geek lamp. I printed the base with Proto Pasta and then slightly brushed it, really nice result. The lamp screen was a solid STL and with Cura I just printed it with one shell and no bottom/middle/top infill. With the screen I had some problems because as the wall was only 0.4 thick it deformed due to contraction of the material, and it ended up being an ondulated surface. It all got fixed printing at the lowest temperature possible (190ºC in the UM2+).

No no no, I've never tried with ABS, but as it gets so stricky it may work. I always apply the mix when the bed is hot, if not the water doesn't evaporate and the surface of the glass is spotted (with water drops) and not a uniform sticky surface.

#geert_2 is claiming that with salt the item just pops off the bed when cooled down... so it sounds like salt maybe better than sugar ? I'm starting a test just now.... The example of the chipped glass was just an extreme example. I print with the bed at 40-45ºC and the printed parts also pop off when the glass is cooled. It also depends on how many times I've already applied the "magical mix" to the glass, as the first time just after cleaning it is not very effective. I will run some tests with salt in the future, but I guess that with PLA it may be enough with salt. I don't have any ABS to test with, but I feel like my mix is just as sticky as the hairspray people use on the heated bed glass in Spain (there's a very cheap and effective brand, although the room smells like an old lady).

I do the same but with sugar, and the result is exactly the same. The heated bed at 45ºC and some water+sugar mix and it works great (I've even chipped the glass because one print was really stuck). I think that any sticky ingredient, either salt or sugar, will work fine with PLA, and the most important thing, it's environmentally friendly.