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Everything posted by danilius

  1. Well, having registered this bug and gotten no response, it was time to go hunting. I finally tried putting this: "from OpenGL import GL" at the start of the cura_app.py so it looks like this: #!/usr/bin/env python3# Copyright © 2015 Ultimaker B.V.# Cura is released under the terms of the AGPLv3 or higher.import sysfrom OpenGL import GL and hey presto, it works!
  2. You need to tackle this through a process of elimination. So, if ABS is fine and PLA is not, there is clearly no issue here other than the nozzle. Feed 20cm or so of PLA through at 240C and that should help clear out any ABS up quite nicely. Make sure you run the PLA through really quickly, otherwise you will get a bigger mess on your hands than you want. You could always print some random object at 60 mms/s and 0.2mm layer height, which will be shoving plastic through at a fast clip, and although 240C is a little high for PLA even at that speed, it should not burn. For the record, I switch between PLA, ABS and nylon regularly so it's quite a normal thing to do.
  3. Tends to vary for me, depending on what I'm working on. Right now I'm running a 30 hour print, and I had one running for about 11 hours before that one, and another for 30 hours before that one. That was since Sunday. I also aborted one after three hours, after realising there was a mistake in the design. So, a bit of quiet a week for me.
  4. Glad this is working for you now. I think we can learn an important lesson from this all: stock more than one brand of filament. Perhaps a corollary of this would be: do not assume that the second roll you purchase from brand x a couple of months after the first will be identical.
  5. I would also recommend and opaque, low-gloss ABS filament, since in my experience this produces the greatest surface quality, and that's what I use for prototypes that are more show-and-tell than practical.
  6. Your feeder looks OK, so does the PTFE coupler and the results of the atomic pulls. I had an issue with the I2K washer, and I have since removed it and will wait until swordriff comes up with a coupler made out of military-grade Unobtanium. Another reason for removing the I2K washer is to reduce the variables involved so we can narrow down the problem as far as possible.
  7. The inside of the bowl really needs support to print with that degree of overhang.
  8. If printing a long run of PLA, I heat the bed up to 65C, use a powerful torch so I can see where the glue is going and spread it evenly. Then the bed is good for at least a week's printing. I have never tried kapton tape so have no idea if it's any better. @ieol2015, I don't think anyone is trying to "push" any technique, we are just sharing our experiences. Everyone should try whatever technique they feel appropriate for their situation. The more info they have, the better informed and more choices they can make. Bear in mind that some of the people posting have literally thousands of hours of printing under their belts.
  9. That's nothing short of horrible. I suggest you print two of those, and video it. Then we might be able to see where things go wrong.
  10. I have printed many kilos of ABS and tried hairspray, two different brands of glue stick and of course the vaunted ABS juice. In my experience ABS juice works really well for PLA, is an absolute must-have for ABS, and works really well for nylon as well. Applying ABS juice is simple if using an ABS puck - you only need a really thin film. Removing prints can be pretty hazardous as per my previous post. In the past I have also used the freezer trick, which takes around 15 minutes or so. PLA and ABS come right off once the plate is frozen or really cold. @cloakfield's method seems to be the second-fastest, very rapid (approximately 5 minutes and no elbow grease involved) so that will now be my go-to method until something even faster and lazier comes along. Nylon (specifically Taulmann Bridge) comes off like magic. Once the plate has cooled to around 30C, it simply peels off with the gentlest tug.
  11. I really have to thank you for that tip, because this morning I was removing a print using my trusty stanley blade scraper and managed to cut myself quite badly. I ended up in hospital and needed several stitches. When I got back I soaked the buildplate as per your instructions, and after a few minutes the ABS juice came off as a film. No idea if the soap is necessary, so I will give it a whirl with just hot water next time. No more scrapers for me!
  12. @cloakfield, finally all is revealed! How was the snow done, considering you were using stop motion animation?
  13. @craftee, would it be possible to make a short video of extruding manually? This might eliminate a problem, or highlight one.
  14. Once I ran into some intractable problem that I failed to solve, so I reset the printer and deleted the settings from Cura folder, and basically started from scratch. If all else has failed and you have not done this yet, give it a go.
  15. Well, you need to employ a process of elimination here. If you remove the bowden tube from the head, and feed filament through by hand at 220C, can you get a nice clean extrusion without too much pressure? If you can, it's reasonable to assume that you nozzle is clear. If that's the case, then the next issue will be the bowden tube itself. Using the menu option to feed filament using the menu wheel, are you able to feed filament through at 220C at a reasonable rate without kickback? You could make a video of that and then we can help you judge if that is a reasonable rate, and take things from there.
  16. It looks like something that should be printing is not printing, such as some support that does not adhere properly to the surface of a curve, and consequently dribbles plastic everywhere. What you need to do is check the print whilst it is running against the layer view in Cura, and see if every support is being printed correctly. Or, you might have a section that is unsupported and not printing of course, and that's causing the dribble everywhere.
  17. Probably nylon, and of all the nylons Taulmann Bridge is probably the easiest to work with.
  18. PLA is crystalline, so you can anneal it by baking it at around 65C - 75C for a few hours. This will allow the crystalline structure to regrow, and should sort out the brittleness. There was an interesting discussion here a while ago, scroll down for some interesting references.
  19. Nice tip, @cloakfield. I use a stanley knife in a blade holder I printed from thingiverse. Scrapes all the leftovers in a couple of minutes. Being inherently lazy, I'm going to give your technique a whirl
  20. If you upload the STL file, we can all have a look at it and that way we don't have to guess too much
  21. Here is a tip: when running into problems, print slowly (30mm/s) and sit by the printer and watch what happens. This will usually help to solve a lot of such problems.
  22. Ouch, that look horrible. Drop the temperature considerably.
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