kvones

Lol, that's my post on 3D Hubs - glad it helped you out! Would love to see your Marvin though -can you post a picture? I print PLA at 70 bed temp because when I have tried going lower I always end up having adhesion problems. And yes, I could probably have printed cooler... :cool:

Wow, thank you for that - I didn't know it was such a big issue!! Tbh though, I don't really get the extreme resistance to what is an optional feature. Just giving someone a choice does not mean they disagree with your design decision - my laptop is somewhat of a robust pensioner, creaky but perfectly capable most of the time. However, the real-time slicing is clearly too much for it, so for me, it would be great to have a button to control it. And yes, I could use another program of course, but I have just got such great results with Cura that I wouldn't want to. Will stick with it for that reason, but sad this feature will likely not see the light of day. :-|

Ich benutze Rhinceros 3D, das ist hat super Funktionen, ist allerdings auch etwas gewoehnungsbeduerftig. Wenn man sich mal daran gewoehnt hat, geht damit wirklich fast Alles, ist aber nicht so gut fuer natuerlichere Formen. Dafuer nehme ich Z-Brush, oder die Freeware Version Sculptris.

14.12.1 is the version I am currently running! I am not sure what you mean by replace though, where would I switch these files out? And why is Daid set against having this?

I would like a button to implement slicing rather than have Cura do a 'real-time' slice everytime I change a parameter. Sometimes I try to change two or three settings, and Cura is already busy re-doing the slice before I have had a chance to put a number in! Then of course everything crashes... Or is there already a way to stop Cura from doing this that I don't know about?

I have to agree with Izzy, so far my favourites have been Faberdashery and Colorfabb. I have printed more of Faberdashery's colours, and they are superb. I especially loved the metallic and transparent ones. If you're interested in exotic filaments, in the States it should be reasonably easy for you to get Proto-Pasta, who make very experimental filaments with magnetic, conductive and metallic properties.

I want to do this mod too and I am just wondering how you fixed the second fan on the metal fan shroud of the UMO+ alu part? Or did you replace it entirely? And what was the exact spec of the fans you bought? where sis you end up plugging them in on the electronics board? Could you maybe post pictures? :???:

I would really love a two fan alu duct for the UMO+ upgrade - any chance of something like that happening?

Something similar happened to me recently and it turned out I had accidentally unchecked the solid top layer button in the expert settings menu. Just something worth checking...

Also wenn sich mit Koeln was ergeben wuerde haette ich auch interesse an wahrscheinlich 4-6 Spulen...

I did the same, found myself a little wrench I had from some Ikea build and really tightened the nut down. This seems to have solved it for now - I keep the wrench handy in my tool holder just in case!

Hmm, I think those were not included in my UMO+ kit! I've since printed out http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19892 wave belt tensioners from thingiverse, they work a treat and are easy to install. Only had to use 1 so far though on the back belt, the other belts are tight enough.

Just finished printing my first model with Ultimaker Flexible PLA. It turned out great - in my beginner's naivety I just used my usual PLA settings and ramped up the temp to 220C. Then I found this thread...obviously I didn't oil, and I used quite heavy retraction settings, so maybe just beginner's luck.

Would this design work with the UMO+ to add a second fan? It's the one mod I have been seriously mulling over as I do a lot of fine structural prints and a second fan would probably increase quality a lot.

How do you become a volunteer to print hands for kids? I would be very interested in contributing to this project.

Finally figured out how to post images... These are the Cocoon-like structures I print for my jewellery research project, and now in much better quality thanks to Illuminarty

Not sure I am brave enough to flip my baby over just yet...the rubber mat sounds like a great idea though, also for soundproofing.

Thank you all for the quick answers. Phew, that's a relief! Is there a video of it printing on its side? Would love to see that!

I have just finished building my 'happy corner' - unfortunately due to many different factors and the odd geometry of my home, the surface my UMO+ sits on is not 100% level (when examined with a spirit level). Will this negatively affect print quality? Also, how would vibration affect print quality? So far I have managed some very decent prints while the UM was sitting on my desk for assembly...unfortunately I need to resume my work there now and the UM has to move to its final position...

I had the same problem with the end caps being far too snug a fit for the rods when screwed on tightly. Loosened them and then spent the next 2 weeks periodically picking up nuts and bolts as they fell off the machine - if you leave them loose, they work themselves apart from the vibration of the machine! As a result also, one of the rods started pushing out sideways. Not good. In the end I printed these http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23835 [gr5 edit: fixed link] and after installing them everything is running smoothly and nothing is falling off anymore...phew!

Could you post a picture of these parts please, as I am having trouble figuring out which ones you mean?

I had/have exactly the same issue with the nut of the feeder on my newly assembled UM+. It keeps working itself loose during printing and eventually falls off - the gear works itself out of alignment and extrusion obviously stops. I have tightened it as much as I dare and the delrin clip is really snug, so yes, I am also worried about it breaking. So far the only solution I have reached is tightening it every 3-5 prints or so. I also had the oozing on top of the alu nozzle block - I followed the instructions for tightening whilst hot on here and that sorted it out. Wonder who else is having these issues with their UM+ kit?

Thank you so much for sharing these settings with us Illuminarti! I make cell-like shapes for my research and could just not get them to print perfectly - thanks to your settings I am finally getting the great results I knew the ultimaker to be capable of! Will post an image when I've figured out how... :-P

Hmm, the feeder continues to work itself apart when I print, even when I tighten everything as much as I dare. This is really getting a bit annoying - after a long print, I basically have to take the nut off, screw the gear back in and put the nut back. On the up, I am getting great prints :-P

As I posted elsewhere, the only thing that would work is very weak sulphuric acid, heated gently in something like a slow cooker but has to have a ceramic pot. I am a jeweller, so work with metals all the time, and I keep a pot in the utility room for cleaning parts after soldering. In the UK it is sold as 'pickle' in granules. Just mix with water (add granules to water NOT other way round) and heat gently. Immerse part for 30 mins or so. Flush well with water. Dont use steel utensils otherwise everything will be copper plated. Afterwards you can brush it gently with a brass brush - all these things you can get from jewellery suppliers such as fischer.de