cloakfiend

Lol. You say you expect to get genuine stuff when you spend the most, yet you still bought something from a known website that sells fake everything at a lower price. Also if people are serious about things, they do research, and many people go to the forums of the thing they are going to buy and ask questions. You chose to look at a website that sells the um2 for $500 lol facepalm. Then you thought no its too cheap so you went for a slightly more expensive one, maybe $800 lol facepalm? Im sorry but i have no idea how you expect to put it together without doing any research at all considering the um2 kit does not exist on the internet? I mean if i was buying a kit i would look for articles about how easy it was to assemble on this thing called the internet, what i needed and what people thought of it. You just thought with your wallet. yes the um2 is expensive, but the um2 kit is a waste of 500 bucks in the toilet. Its pretty obvious what ultimaker sells, it on their website. And you have you be blind not to notice a clone missing the name on it. How can you assemble a clone if you are blind? I find your story stupid and if you deliberetely paid with paypal thinking it may be fake, why didnt you just ask someone on this website BEFORE you wasted your money. Its what normal people do. Ali express....seriously? Did you not google fake um2 or um2 clones before buying? Or even um2 kit? How old are you, like 10 years old or something? Sorry but you are the reason the face palm meme was created.

Ill get some to add to my glue collection then! Im planning a little project now...not big stuff though.

For 99bucks, well if its as good as it looks, then thats the formlabs out of business for jewellery makers. But time will tell. They definitely have enough money raised to iron out many problems. Many people spend that on a night out anyways so i may get one out of curiosity, if it doesnt work well enough for me, then i suppose i could always give it to a relatives son, and they would love it. But, dont believe everything you read. Some of it is bound to be hype, but if its even half as good as they say, then it worth a punt. I saw they are already doing tablet ones so thats covered i guess. but the costs of a tiny bottle of resin, was that stated anywhere, cos I didnt see it?

Good idea, but yes, i imagine the resins being expensive, and no mention of resolution, and time, and durability of the prints. Proprietary materials are bad, its a gimmick untill others produce compatible materials. You dont want to be stuck with a useless thing after, but for 99bucks at least its cheap. Considering the iphone has the worst resolution of all premium phones on the market its a bit silly to use one in the demo, unless they are also pushing the apple brand, but whos knows it may not matter. Id be interested in actually seeing the end results first hand before id even touch this. i imagine everything in the video being staged and not the actual prints.

I was talking about a value not the actual 'special edition' .35 nozzles. Lol. I find this topic interesting but will just lay it to rest as i dont think im going to actually bother playing with it too much as im happy with my prints as they are.

Damn didnt even know.they existed, lol.

Didnt look like there was anything wrong with your printer dude. It looked like a slow jam where your nozzle was slightly blocked, or it was in a room that was too cold or something. A couple good atomic pulls would have sorted that. You will get that exact problem again if your not careful......

Thanks gr5, so if im getying this right. Then whatever im printing with a 0.35 nozzle entry will be better from an accurate point of view? Regardless of the shell other than being a factor of the nozzle x2? how about x3 as i use that often for strength when printing hollow? these are with the .4 at .6. Apart from the obvious flat hatched areas and shallow inclines, i really cant see much improvement from .35, as even with .6 its very clean. i cant see how .46 would really make any difference (better or worse) unless it was not a factor of the shell.

I like being wrong, it means i learn things, but im still confused here. I print with all setting the same apart from nozzle size at 0.6 insead of 0.4 with the 0.4 nozzle. All i was saying was that my bridging was improved as such. I printed with the same speed also. The top was not flat and smooth though but that was my reasoning behind thinking the 0.46 size being better than smaller. I am aware that the dimensions will be incorrect from a measuring pov but the quality i felt was great other than extreme plains. I only do this to save time on givaways though. I dont feel 0.46 would save me much time though. And 0.35 would take even longer? I could be completely missing the point though and totally misunderstanding this entire thread? Ive printed many things like this and as the nozzle size is false then so will be the dimensions. a friend has asked me to print something with some accuracy however so it will be my first real micron accuracy test. I doubt i will get it right first time but will try this 0.35 nozzle. My question is that do i need to set the wall size to. 0.7, as i've only used 1.2 for the past year and a half? Have i lost the plot?

The quality is shockingly bad, even though i expected it to be, quite obvious that they dont care. I now now all those people stating they got good prints from those fakes are a total load of crap. It would be nearly impossible for such a poorly constructed clone (lol) to produce anything at all. The fact that you have to construct yourself it is even worse, you kind of know that kit wont fit together before you buy it, lol.

Lol, whenever i demonstrate 3d printing to people i always use toothpaste, it stacks better. I love ketchup too much to waste it!

By all means do what works for you, im just saying what i think is best for me. I have had some spools tangled at purchase which meant even if you had the best ball bearings in the world, you would still get a tangle, its just bad luck, and i choose not to have it. I have my ultimaker on the floor in the corner of my kitchen so that is not an option for me until i tidy up my garage anyway.

When i get home im gonna do some testing of my own too, thin things like fingers at angles are the things ive been having trouble with since installing the ob, everything else seems fine. Bridging is great. Not sure if its to do with the nozzle being different as sander said from the original um one but seeings as i have a spare everything lying around im gonna see for myself. After all beauty is in the eye of the beholder. And in the case of my prints, I am the beholder, regardless of what the settings 'should' be.

No, i never bother measuring the amount, i just make sure there is more than i need, that way i can print loads of small things without replacing it, or a few big ones. The only difference is i dont suffer from any extra tension that is created from the spool and any tangles as springs are physically imposible to tangle unless they are tangled to begin with. Its just a safer way ro print but is limited by the amount of filament you can attach. I would not recommend for example attaching 2kg of unwound filament as it could get tangled, i personally wouldnt recoommend more than 15 - 20 metres personally without some sort of guide, but having a guide defeats the whole point of the loose filament in the first place. With th new feeder it may be an option however, but i dont have the new feeder so its not an option for me.

As far as im concerned i wouldnt even waste my time trying to print those. They look like perfect case studies of what this printer is not designed for. Even if you managed to, you would have to print them big and the supports would make them look ugly. As a beginner id forget it, as a pro, learn how to cut your model up and start from there because you wont get a nice print doing it as is. Just my honest opinion. The fact that the lower objects entire structure relies on that tiny support at the bottom is madness, it will work as plastic is light but would be prone to breaking. Basically you could print them, but if you have any sort of standards, they would visually suck. Another side note is that while an object is mathematically perfect, its printable topology might be complete chaos, hence un printable. The geometry in that multicoloured object looks extremely poor and the verts dont even look welded. I.e. The walls have zero thickness and wont print. You will also have a lot of intersecting geometry which you could fix but could cause other issues, i could go on.....but Basically in my books, forget it.

Whats funnier is that the head is different in both pictures, ones um2+ copy the other is um2.

Two year old thread lol, Boy am i glad i didnt get a makerbot 5th gen, as 2014 was when i got my first um2, my friend talked me out of the mbot5. ill buy a him a pint! I definitely owe him one! I feel sorry for any makerbot 5th gen people out there. Dont waste your time with closed source hobby 3d printers yet. You'll be be sorry for it! Is Makerbot still open for business these days or are they shut down? Thats one company that has gone down the toilet. Lol.

So now with my ob installed a while ago, using cura 15.04.02 should i be using a different setting to 0.4 for my nozzle (such as 0.46?) or am i missing something.

If you are new to this dont fiddle with too many settings. Its asking for trouble. You wont know were to begin if something goes wrong. Its very easy to forget you ticked something or changed values. Ive done it many times. If it printed ok once and not the second time, then YOU have changed something, you need to backtrack and figure out what it is. I print EVERYTHING with 1.2 shell and NEVER had any issues with walls since switching from 0.8 which i had many problems with. Leave the nozzle at 0.4 if thats what you have, and as gr5 said thats a silly amount of support, this is where bridging becomes your friend. And as someone new to 3d printing you really should not be starting on objects with extreme overhangs. You are going to learn things the hard way, or should i say the frustrating and infuriating way. Dont try and run if you cant walk.

I also have a weird crackling sound like a packet of crisps mainly during retractions and the last move of he buildplate when its finished, but its intermitten and also much lighter sounding than yours, but time will tell i guess.

Did you by accident put 0 shell? i have before and my stuff came out like that.

thats one dirty nozzle and ob! what happened? a plastic explosion?

Have you tried printing off the roll? maybe your feeder motor is getting tired? Worth a shot.

Did you completely wipe clean the z screw before regreasing, as tiny plastic dust tends to settle there, making sure the thread is clear? its the only thing i can think of, as just adding grease wont help as much, if bits are still in there.