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krys

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Everything posted by krys

  1. Hi there, I have am UM2+ with an I2K and TinkerGnome firmware. I am playing with polycarbonate filament. Not Polymaker, not PC-ABS, the plain old classic polycarb. This means I am struggling with bed adhesion and warping. I've done searching in the forum and looked on reprap.org, but I would like to know: Does anyone have a "one true ultimate super duper solution" to polycarbonate bed adhesion and warping? Or even something that mostly works? Should I just go with Buildtak or Wolfbite, or is there something better/cheaper/easier? I am currently hovering around the settings of 300 C head, 120 C bed, ABS juice and brim, Cura 2.x Normal profile, but I am still not getting things to work completely. So, any settings suggestions are welcome also. Basically I am looking to solve PC once and for all on the UM2(+). I am even willing to write up the results so everyone can benefit. Any thoughts/insights would be much appreciated. Thanks so much!
  2. Hi folks, With my UM2, I was using Labern's fan shroud and liked it very much. When I upgraded with the Extruder Upgrade Kit, I have been using the new UM2+ fan shroud and it seems to work decently too. So, I was wondering: Which one is better? Is there even any significant difference that would make me choose one over the other (other than metal is better than plastic)? I guess a related question is are there any newer designs that I missed that seem better than Labern's or the UM2+ shrouds? I am not asking another "which fan shroud is best" question. I get that everyone has their favourites. I am just wondering about specific comparisons between Labern's and the UM2+ shrouds. Anyway, any thoughts/insights would be much appreciated. Thanks!
  3. krys

    3D LAC Supplier in the US?

    Well, I am glad you were able to find hair spray that works for you. That price on the 3DLac is damn steep with that shipping. I saw a video where someone had some Garnier Fructis hairspray (I think), so maybe I will try that when my 3DLac runs out. Thanks for sharing your experiences!
  4. krys

    Materials

    The new wording is much better. I am glad that rather than just shouting at each other, a constructive solution could be found. Thanks @SandervG!
  5. Actually, Proto-Pasta now has some matte PLAs available. Never tried them though.
  6. (I had trouble creating the original post, so here it is in a reply.) Hi all, @IronRedstar posted an interesting Kickstarter project in the French forum and I thought it would get some wide exposure/evaluation/comments if it was mentioned in English as well. It is a new particulate filter design/idea for 3D printers, including Ultimaker. It closes soon and they are promising shipping soon too. Anyway, if anyone is curious, here are some links: French post: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/39499-un-filtre-revolutionnaire-projet-kickstarter English Kickstarter page: Comments and opinions would be appreciated, especially from the more experienced amongst us. Enjoy!
  7. Yeah, KickStarter is certainly a gamble and it is much harder to bring products to market than most people realize. But I thought the idea was interesting enough to share. Also it seems like they did some science on it, and I like that. Plus they seem to be past they blue sky idea phase and have an actual working system. That covers a big part of the risk, IMO. But who knows. Place your bet or don't, right? That is why I was wondering what the 3D Printing experts in the community thought about it.
  8. krys

    Un filtre révolutionnaire (projet Kickstarter)

    Le project semble interessant! Je pense qu'un post en anglais serait utile pour avoir plus de commentaires, alors j'ai cree ce post: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/39540-a-revolutionary-filter-kickstarter-project Merci pour mentioner cette project.
  9. krys

    What are these dark spots?

    Hi there, I have used sewing machine oil when printing Ninjaflex, but I never correlated that with my dark spots. So, maybe, but I am not sure. Switching from a dark colour to a light one, or from ABS to PLA, or printing too hot and burning the filament would all seem to be more likely causes, I would think. That said, maybe Canola or other cooking oils would produce different results. Still, I do not think you need oil unless you are printing a flexible material. Anyway, hope this helps. Good luck!
  10. krys

    3D LAC Supplier in the US?

    Hi @exforma23, Can you tell me who is the Canadian supplier that 3dLeon mentioned? And like @neotko suggested, hair spray can work too, if you find the right brand. I did try some cheap stuff and it did not stick at all. I never tried any others though. Still, trying some super ultra extra hold stuff might work for you. It would save you some headaches. For glue stick, the trick is to wipe it down with a damp cloth after applying so that you get an even, smooth, invisible surface. That said, 3DLac/hairspray is much easier and does seem to give more consistent results, at least for me. Just take the glass plate out of the printer before spraying it. OH! I just remembered a hair spray brand that was said to work: Aqua Net. I cannot find it locally for me, but you might have better luck. Anyway, good luck. Please do share your experiences with this adventure, okay?
  11. krys

    3D LAC Supplier in the US?

    Another option I just noticed: There is another Canadian store, MachinaCorp (.ca), that has 3dLac and they do not say they limit shipping. You may or may not have luck with them. I have never done business with them, however, i cannot say anything more than that. Anyway, hope it helps!
  12. krys

    3D LAC Supplier in the US?

    Hi there, Welcome to the forum! I do not know about any US resellers, but it is available in Canada from VolexFactory. Unfortunately, I just checked their page and they say they cannot ship it outside of Canada. 3DLac is made by 3D-Leon in Spain. They have a resellers page, but nothing for North America. But maybe you an get it from one of those. Another option that I have seen people mention positively is Dimafix. It too is a European product, but the Dimafix company also has resellers that might be a source for you. That said, when I looked at FormFutura's website, for example, they say they cannot ship Dimafix outside of Europe. I think there are limitations on shipping flamable aerosols, which perhaps explains your Amazon difficulties. So, maybe you have access to a Canadian address for VoxelFactory? Alternatively, several people have posted in this forum about certain brands of hair spray that work very well. But not all hair spray, so the exact brand is important. You might try searching for that and see if you can find something that is available locally. Having personally used 3dLac, I can say that I really like it. It is much nicer to use than gluestick, for example. But, of course, of you cannot buy it, then that does not matter. Anyway, I hope this helps. Hopefully someone else will have a better answer. Good luck!
  13. I have this same issue. I did not used to be like this. Back in the Cura 15/16 days (and corresponding firmware), the end-of-print and end-of-filament-change retractions were something sane. I do not know exactly when the change happened, but at some point around Cura 2.1 (as I seem to recall fuzzily), end-of-print and end-of-filament-change retractions got longer. Too long. Or possibly it started when I upgraded to from UM2 to UM2+. Not sure. Also, I have/had this issue with both stock and tinker firmwares. I have never used USB printing, and I have never changed retraction settings in tinker until I started seeing the issue. I have not figured out how to solve it even with tinker firmware. And the problem seems exacerbated when using the 0.25mm nozzle, but maybe not. It might be the same too-much and not more too-much, if that makes any sense. So, LePaul is not alone. Since I have the tinker firmware right now, maybe it would help to know what the "normal" default stock 2+ values should be. I could then compare to see if my settings are off. Still, factory reset does not fix this. Anyway, hope this helps a bit.
  14. krys

    Install Cura 2.4 on Suse 42.2?

    Yeah, I was confused about it too. It seems AppImage is a thing. You can find more info here: http://appimage.org/ But I have not actually played with it directly yet. I am still on 2.3.1 for now. I have to upgrade my Ubuntu before I can use 2.4, so I have put it off for a while. :( I agree though that Ultimaker should write some words and make them prominently visible for the AppImage Linux install. AppImage is (to me anyway) a new and weird and non-standard way to install software on Linux. So, I would expect that the majority of Linux people have no clue what the heck AppImage is. That puts the burden on Ultimaker, IMHO, to be the teacher and explaing this new (and wonderful?) way of installing things. Anyway, hope this helps. Good luck!
  15. krys

    Install Cura 2.4 on Suse 42.2?

    Hi there, Welcome to the forum! I used be on openSuSE. I really liked it! Taking a quick look in OBS, I do not see that anyone has built a 2.4 yet. There was a 2.3.1 in there, so you do not have to be at 14 or 15 anymore. But also, with Cura 2.4 on Linux, Ultimaker has switched to a different "universal" package system. So, you might try downloading that from the Ultimaker website and give that a go using the instructions/conventions of the new package. Alternatively, maybe you want to be the first on OBS to make a 2.4 build? Maybe others here can comment. I have not been on Suse for a few years now so I am out of the loop. Anyway, I hope this helps. Good luck!
  16. Oh, and please do share your conclusions and final choice with us! It is interesting to know what others think.
  17. Hi there, The others posts here have talked about the flexibility of the UM2+, alternatives to ABS that meet your requirements and about the Zortrax being good at ABS but with other potential downsides. But I just wanted to mention, specifically, you can get very good ABS results with a UM2(+). But maybe not quite out of the box. Traditional issues have been bed adhesion and warping. But with the new door+sheet addon from Ultimaker, or with BuildTak/PrintInZ/3DLac/ABS Juice/ABS Puck/etc. and some kind of enclosing, you can make it work. Plus, you also get all the other great capabilities of the UM2+. For enclosing, you can buy or build a front cover. For a top cover I use a plastic tote box from an office supply store that had good dimensions. I saw one person printed adapter clips to make a tote box work. Others have used giant turkey basting bags, vinyl table cloths, cardboard boxes, folded paper, fancy acrylic custom covers, etc. There are even a couple commercial offerings you can buy. With enclosing to control ambient temperature and some kind of adhesion solution, ABS works just fine on a UM2+. But again, not so much out of the box. As for smell and venting, you already have experience with that, but there are odourless ABSes out there like those from FormFutura. All this said, I personally have only limited experience with ABS on UM2(+), but the above comes from both personal experience and a lot of reading of the UM forums. I will say, that pretty much other than, say, PEEK, I have not found a material or object that I could not print on an UM2(+). So, you do definitely get a flexible machine that you can grow in to and experiment with. But as others have said, there are other options out there, so do your research. Anyway, I hope this helps. Good luck!
  18. krys

    PVA brakes off

    Yeah, I could see inside of a part being more difficult. I have not tried that yet.
  19. krys

    PVA brakes off

    Hi there, Welcome to the forums! PLA sticks to PVA (once you get your settings right), but PVA does not stick to PLA. See the difference? PVA does not like to be on top. So, if you have a model where you need PVA to go over top of some PLA, then the current answer is to use the Horizontal Expansion option under Support (assuming Cura 2.3+) and expand the supports out so that all support parts are connected to the build plate. I've used 3-5mm so far, depending on the model. It seems wasteful of the PVA, but currently that is what it takes to make PVA over PLA work. ... At least as I understand things. I am still learning PVA myself. Anyway, hope this helps. Good luck!
  20. krys

    Filament couleur peaux

    Bonjour, Peut-etre voire faberdashery.co.uk. Ils ont un couleur peau, je pense, et plusieurs autres colours que je ne vois pas ailleur. Des pastels, par example. Bonne chance! Edit: Non, ils n'ont pas peau, mais ils ont encore beaucoup de belles couleurs. En plus, j'ai trouve ceci: http://www.reprappertech.com/search-skin.html (1.75mm seulement) :( https://www.idig3dprinting.co.uk/shop/3d-printer-filament/pla-filament/ingeo-pla-filament-flesh/ (Seule 1 colour pour maintenant). J'espere que ceci aide.
  21. Well, I can say that @foehnsturm's project is working very well. It seems to me at least that we are just tweaking/improving on a working system at this point. But of course, I cannot speak to foehnsturm's release plan or anything. The design works very well though. As for your idea, I am pretty sure you will need to customize the firmware. @TinkerGnome is the person to talk to about your idea in this regard. And probably for the hardware aspect too. But it seems to me that if you are having to go the custom firmware route, then the extra electronics is probably not necessary. Then again, your hardware idea just might make custom firmware less/not necessary. I do not know. I have tagged TinkerGnome (above), so hopefully he will see this post and respond. Oh, and I might also be concerned with how retracting the filament affects the TFM coupler. You are going to have to be careful with temperatures, I suspect. But I am just guessing there. As for the other project, yes it is @Crema's, here. I had to go find it again to remember Anyway, it seems like you are taking on an ambitious project. Good luck!
  22. krys

    Best clear plastic filament?

    Hmm... A thought: Cura (2.3.1) has a Fuzzy option in the experimental settings. I assume it is in 2.4 as well. I wonder how Fuzzy would look for light diffracting? That might also give you interesting results for your project. Anyway, the thought just occurred to me. Hope it is useful.
  23. Hi there, Welcome to the forums! I have not seen anyone talking on the forums about a UM2 single hot-end dual setup like what the Cyclops or what Mr. Prusa is doing. Maybe you are the first! But there are a couple UM2 dual print projects going on right now using different techniques. You might want to check out @foehnsturm's project here, for example. (Disclaimer: I am part of the beta test for the above project.) I am not sure about the other project (as it is not being coordinated in English so I cannot read it ), but I hear it is working too. Or, maybe you want create the single nozzle version and then UM2 can have even more options! In which case, good luck! Anyway, hope this helps.
  24. Look for additional FreeCAD tutorials about converting STLs. There is a function in FreeCAD to simplify models. Learning to use that could probably reduce the file size considerable. I just do not remember the details or what it is called. ... I think it is either in the Mesh or Part workbench. As for why it is tricky, my understanding is that STLs are just a bunch of points, lines and faces. Further, every surface is broken up in the triangles so you get a lot of triangles. They have no concept of volume, or squares, or rounded surfaces, ... or surfaces at all. STEPs on the other hand are solid objects with volume. They know about surfaces with various geometries and curves. And so it is hard to take a collection of triangles and know that those ones over there are a cylinder, and these ones over here are a square with a hole in it and the other ones over that way are a rounded edge. These are all things that the original STEP files would have in them but that you lose when converting to STL. It is like a digital picture. It is really just a bunch of pixels. It is hard to go from pixels back to that is a face, or even that is the face of my dog. That is what you are asking for when converting STLs to STEPs. At least that is my understanding. Hope it helps. Good luck!
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