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krys

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Everything posted by krys

  1. ... lol. It took me so long to write my post, I did not see SandervG's response. So, please keep that in mind when reading my post above.
  2. Hi folks, I have a few thoughts to share on this topic, for whatever they are worth. 1) As a practical matter, I do not think Ultimaker would use that clause to void your warrantee in normal cases. So far, to me at least, they have been good people. So, I do not think there is any (current) practical risk of them being jerks about support. 2) But it is a crazy dumb clause to include. 3) So why not, instead of just complaining, talk to Ultimaker and see of they will change the wording. Assume they are nice people until they show they are not. At least see what they say. It helps make
  3. +1 for FreeCAD for this, but converting STLs to STEP can sometimes be tricky. It is not always a clean and easy transition. So, heads up and good luck! Another option, if you know or our like to learn some programming would be to manipulate the STLs directly in OpenSCAD. No conversion necessary. Decent for tweaking existing designs. Maybe consider this a backup if your particular STLs do not like being STEPs. And lastly, the most deal solution would be to go back to the original author of the files and ask if they are willing to share STEPs with you. Many authors are willing but just
  4. I have no experience with flexible PLA, so I cannot help with that. Sorry.
  5. And they have Greys: http://www.formfutura.com/search/grey/ Hope this helps.
  6. I find carbon fiber to be more matte, but it is black and harder to print (nozzle wear) and more brittle than standard PLA. It looks super sexy though! And of course, colder printing can make for matte-er results. But weaker layer bonding. Oh, and I have found the FormFutura PLA to be matte-er than other PLAs (e.g. ColorFabb). At least it used to be, I have not bought from them in a long time. And even then, I only bought yellow, so who knows. But still it was more matte and really nice quality.
  7. I cannot see the image (my work is blocking the site), but if you are talking about living hinges, I have had success with both XT and nylon (Taulman Bridge). Hope this helps.
  8. That is weird. Try sending them an email. They are nice people, very helpful! Failing that you might try messaging Valcrow. But I am sure a regular email will work.
  9. Hi there, I have not tried soldering the bed, but your reliable sources would be first and foremost Fabrc8, since they made you printer. But you might also check out thegr5strore.com. They also sell UM stuff and Gr5 is a super helpful and friendly guy here on the forums. Dynamism is also a UM seller in the US, so maybe check if they have parts. Lastly, I if none of that works and you cannot wait, there is a Canadian reseller, shop3d.ca. That is Valcrow's store and Valcrow is another forum god like Gr5. Of course, those are all for proper OEM parts. You can try other sources, but I ha
  10. Hi there, For me, PETG has a bit of flex, like ABS, but not huge. Nylon (i.e. Bridge) is damn near indestructible, but it can deform if bent too much. Another option would be Polycarbonate. It is both stiff and strong. But it is also hard to print. That said, I have not tried the newer PC formulations that are easier to print. So it might be an option to explore if you want both stiff and strong. Anyway, hope this helps.
  11. Hehe. I know that high! Good luck with the new parts!
  12. Okay, so I2K might help with the longevity of the couplers, but I do not think it is such a big deal with the TFM version. I would guess the same of the TF2K version too. The older printers came with a PTFE coupler, that wore out from high temps. The I2K would probably help there. But if you replace the PTFE version with the newer TFM version (or if you have TFM already), then I would suggest the I2K is superfluous, unless you really want to buy one anyway. That said, remember that even with the newer couplers, they are considered consumables. And you are expected to replace them when t
  13. I do remember turning down the fans sometimes with the Zetoff, now that you mention it. ... For that matter, I have not ever needed to do that with Labern's. But now that I am looking at it again, I remember why. The problem with the Zetoff, is that the heater block gets hit with the air from the fans as it bounces off the bed/print. The newer shrouds, including Labern's, cover the heater to prevent that. As I recall, the back flow of air, besides just causing cooling errors, actually makes the heater/PID algorithm work harder and can leads to worse surface finishes and/or weaker layer bo
  14. The Olson block comes with RSB nozzles. My understanding, and I could be misremembering here, is that the RSBs (i.e. normal UM2+ nozzles) have a different and superior internal geometry that makes them better. Not sure if it is better heating or better flow or what, maybe both. But better is the claim. I.e. not just cosmetically different. I have no experience with E3D stuff though. Then there are the Matchless nozzles that are in a whole different league, apparently. I have not gone that route yet.
  15. Just a note on the Zetoff fan shroud: It is indeed a good one, and using a bit of tin can for a heat break is very fun. But the Labern fan shroud is considered better and as I have both, I think I agree. Though, I have not put my anemometer to the Zetoff one, so I do not have data to back that up. It is more of a pre-airflow-analysis vs post-airflow-analysis thing, as I seem to recall. I could be wrong there though. Heck, Labern's is even slightly better than the 2+ metal shroud in terms both of airflow and flow location. Looks like Labern even includes a spring-replacement space now to
  16. Hi there. Just my $0.02 here but, I agree with everything @SyntaxTerror said. But in the days before the 2+ was out, changing to the IRobertI feeder was a big improvement. If you are hesitant about the 2+ upgrade kit, nothing says you have to buy it now. You can play with what you have and see how it goes before making the commitment. If you decide to go that way, then I really recommend printing out the IRobertI feeder and changing to that. With that and the tension dialed in correctly, I almost never had any grinding. Well, that combined with IRobertI's low-friction spool holder, whic
  17. Oh, so the difference is that with UltiGCode, the printer handles the material choice and temperature settings, for example. With Rep-Rap style, you have to tell Cura all that and the printer just blindly follows what is in the gcode. The idea with the UltiGCode is that you could change materials and/or temperature settings on the printer and keep the same gcode to reuse over and over. With Rep-Rap, you have to re-slice your model for every change. But now, with Cura getting smarter about controlling temperature, with multiple nozzles, different nozzle sizes and with the growing number of
  18. Well, I would expect that your printer accepts both. But it is a question of which Cura generates. What it means for gcode is that some commands are different in each flavour. If you go searching for a command and it is not there because the flavour is different, then you might be confused. UltiGcode my use a G command for some task, but Rep-Rap might use an E command for the same task, for example. Think British and American English. Mostly the same, but some words are spelled differently and sometimes there are different words for the same concept. I am not expert on this stuff. I a
  19. I used that reprap link to learn gcode too. That combined with reading gcode files generate from Cura let me learn enough to write a Cura plugin. It is also worth remembering that there are differences between UltiGCode flavour and RepRap-style flavour of gcode. Cura 2.3.x and below on UM2(+) defaults to UltiGCode. But with Cura 2.4 and on things are changing more and more (back) to RepRap-style. I do not know what the default it. And I do not know what UM3 defaults to. But it can matter when learning/creating gcode. Anyway, hope this helps.
  20. Well, all I can say is that Shop3D is a/the official UM reseller for Canada and that they have always been super responsive for me. Shop3D is @Valcrow's store and he monitors the forums here too. I cannot speak to the consistency of them keeping stuff in stock, but I can say they sell actual OEM parts and not clones. So at least it would not be hit or miss in that regard. Something to consider. Anyway, hope it helps. Good luck!
  21. Bonjour, Peut-etre c'etait deja mentionne, mail pour mois XT et Nylon (Taulman) ont arrache un peu de verre. Mais, Taulman recommende (pour Nylon) de ne pas laisser le plateau refroidire en bas de 45C ou l'impression s'attach trop fortement. Alors, apres qu'un impression is fini, je fait remontir la temperature a 45 avant de l'enlever. J'imagine que cette procedure pourait fonctionner pour XT et autre aussi. Au moins, je ne me souvient pas d'avoir arrache plus de verre un fois que j'ai commencer as suivre cette procedure. J'espere que ceci aide. Mes excuses pour mon francais et la manqu
  22. Hi there, While I cannot speak to the general topic of part availability (or lack thereof), if you are looking for a quicker result, then have you considered ordering for your friendly neighbours to the north? I seems that Shop3D has the UM2(+) heated bed in stock right now: https://shop3d.ca/product/ultimaker-2-heated-bed-assembled/ Maybe consider Canadian suppliers as a backup when you cannot source parts locally? Anyway, just throwing this out there. Hope it helps.
  23. I have got to say that I did not have any bad experience with MakerGeeks, other than a mislabelled spool. Though I have only bought from them once. And I am reasonably happy with their stuff so far. Their Raptor Series stuff is actually quite impressive. Still, I can understand your experience souring you to them.
  24. Hi there, I once read somewhere that putting two layers of tape, criss-cross (i.e. at 90 degree angles) can help keep the tape down. So, say, one layer is left-right, and the next layer is front-back. Never tried it personally, but it would be a simple enough thing to test. I have also used the PrintInZ skin and it works decently with a cold bed, depending on material. ... Assuming you do not get the heated bed. A heated bed is nice though. Anway, hope this helps. Good luck!
  25. Actually, for a fast FilaFlex print, that came out quite decently! Looking at the thin walls, the dome at the back, the central legs and of course the DNA spiral, I think I would struggle to achieve that with the bowden setup. I think, like you say, slower with better retraction would make the print come out almost perfect. Thanks for accepting my challenge!
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