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krys

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Everything posted by krys

  1. Actually, Proto-Pasta now has some matte PLAs available. Never tried them though.
  2. Look for additional FreeCAD tutorials about converting STLs. There is a function in FreeCAD to simplify models. Learning to use that could probably reduce the file size considerable. I just do not remember the details or what it is called. ... I think it is either in the Mesh or Part workbench. As for why it is tricky, my understanding is that STLs are just a bunch of points, lines and faces. Further, every surface is broken up in the triangles so you get a lot of triangles. They have no concept of volume, or squares, or rounded surfaces, ... or surfaces at all. STEPs on the other hand
  3. +1 for FreeCAD for this, but converting STLs to STEP can sometimes be tricky. It is not always a clean and easy transition. So, heads up and good luck! Another option, if you know or our like to learn some programming would be to manipulate the STLs directly in OpenSCAD. No conversion necessary. Decent for tweaking existing designs. Maybe consider this a backup if your particular STLs do not like being STEPs. And lastly, the most deal solution would be to go back to the original author of the files and ask if they are willing to share STEPs with you. Many authors are willing but just
  4. And they have Greys: http://www.formfutura.com/search/grey/ Hope this helps.
  5. I find carbon fiber to be more matte, but it is black and harder to print (nozzle wear) and more brittle than standard PLA. It looks super sexy though! And of course, colder printing can make for matte-er results. But weaker layer bonding. Oh, and I have found the FormFutura PLA to be matte-er than other PLAs (e.g. ColorFabb). At least it used to be, I have not bought from them in a long time. And even then, I only bought yellow, so who knows. But still it was more matte and really nice quality.
  6. I have got to say that I did not have any bad experience with MakerGeeks, other than a mislabelled spool. Though I have only bought from them once. And I am reasonably happy with their stuff so far. Their Raptor Series stuff is actually quite impressive. Still, I can understand your experience souring you to them.
  7. Actually, for a fast FilaFlex print, that came out quite decently! Looking at the thin walls, the dome at the back, the central legs and of course the DNA spiral, I think I would struggle to achieve that with the bowden setup. I think, like you say, slower with better retraction would make the print come out almost perfect. Thanks for accepting my challenge!
  8. Here is a torture test idea: Print the same thing you just did, but in FilaFlex! (Or orignial Ninjaflex, not semi, not Cheatah). Too mean?
  9. Yeah, the cheap stuff can cause more issues. There is just less hassle/tweaking with the branded stuff. Usually it is bed adhesion, more glue. Though I did have some really brittle crap once. Could not even stay in the feeder overnight without snapping. Really pissed me off. Then again, I have had cheap stuff that just worked like magic. So it can be a bit hit or miss. Again, more tweaking to get it right. That said, the I find the MakerGeeks stuff quite inexpensive and also very usable. (Funny story though, I ordered a spool of PLA from them once and I got a spool of PETG, but it wa
  10. Oh yes, of course Ultimaker brand filaments are excellent quality too. Given their printers, you know they would not put their name on crap filament. And I have heard of PrintedSolid. I think the guys at adafruit have mentioned them. Speaking of adafruit, they also sell filament (and Ultimakers), but I do not know if they carry much 2.85mm. They seem to really prefer the 1.75mm stuff. Still, they are an excellent and pioneering US company for DIY/hobbiest electronics projects, so it might be worth checking out what they have for filament.
  11. Hi there, I am Canadian but I buy US sometimes too. Either fabrc8 or Gr5store (or both) sell filament. And one of them sells Faberdashery (UK) brand, which is really nice high-end stuff. I have also bought a few spools from MakerGeeks. They are cheap and quite decent quality and US made, if that matters to you. I have also bought from Proto-Pasta. They have excellent quality and really innovative stuff. They are also US made products, I believe. Beyond that I generally think it is more about the brand of filament and less about the supplier. So ColorFabb stuff is great, so is FormFut
  12. ... Maybe the reason why it is not said, is that everyone expected that everyone already tried that? I will admit, I just never thought of it! Nice thinking, @eldrick! Though, it seems @geert_2 has thought quite a bit about it.
  13. I wonder about a couple things. Maybe @SandervG or others might have some insights: 1) None of what has been suggested so far would explain why the original true Olsson Block that the printer came with would have such severe leaking to begin with. If it had not failed, or other blocks would have been bought, I assume. 2) If the new Olsson Block from Gr5 comes in and the printer still leaks, then what? I.e. if it is not the nozzle that is the source of the problem, what else could produce similar symptoms? Anyway, the above comments just got me thinking about these a bit. Hope it helps
  14. Hi, I see you are in the US. In which case you might want to look at / talk to fabrc8. They probably are the ones that made your printer anyway. The other source I know of in the US is gr5. They carry Ultimaker parts and also 3rd party mods. There might be other good sources, but those are the two I know and have purchased from. Plus they are both active members on this forum. Hope it helps.
  15. Wow! I have never seen it that bad before. ... I got nothing. Sorry. But DidierKlein and ultiarjan know everything, so you are in good hands! Good luck!
  16. We are a pretty helpful bunch around here. I hope you keep us updated with your progress! Good luck!
  17. I never thought to doing an offset to widen the font explicitly. Good idea! Suguru is also a nice idea! I guess I have been lucky as I have done several massive retraction prints before and never had an issue. But I see your point. Thanks!
  18. Hi @neotko, It figures that you would have success here, base one what I have seen of your other works! Those are really nice results! That's with a 0.4mm nozzle? Though I do see that you are using a sans-serif font with a nice wide line width. That is quite different to what @rich17222 has shown us. I do stand by what I said that rich17222's model will need to be changed. Still, glad to see it is doable at the sizes rich17222 is talking about! I knew other clever people would have good answers! Thanks for sharing!
  19. Hi there, One thing I did not see you mention (maybe I missed it), do you tighten the nozzle while it is hot? If you tighten when cold, then when the nozzle heats up it expands a bit, which would loosen the threads again. Though, by the sounds of things, that is not your main/only issue, if it is leaking that much. So, yeah, what DidierKlein asked. Good Luck!
  20. Hi there, Long post ahead. Sorry. Hope it helps. I have on several occasions, and just recently too, done some letter printing. Here are some observations of your situation based on my experiences: First, as others have said, nozzle size. I mean physically. If your printer has a 0.4mm nozzle, then thinner lines are either not possible or tricky to get working. And even with tricks, there will be a physical limit on what you can achieve. For a 0.4 nozzle, depending on font, I can get down to 8 or 6mm high lower-case letters max. With a 0.25mm nozzle I can get better detail, and prob
  21. So, is your version specifically for the UMO, or did you just do some generic improvements? It would be cool if you two combined your efforts or at least both reference each other when/if you share your results. That way the vast majority of the UM community would be covered by this mod. ... Just thinking out loud.
  22. Regarding the front calibration, I too see that. If I want to get a similar resistance on the calibration card/paper/feeler gauge, the bed has to get pushed down and the nozzle basically touches the bed. Also, I find the front of the plate easily flexes up and down if I put any amount of pressure on either side. While I cannot say that this has ruined any prints or anything, it has bothered me for a while now. And I have had some adhesion issues because of over/under calibrating the front. So, all that being said, if you decided to share your design, either publicly (preferred) or just wi
  23. Lol! Well, what do I know? Never mind then! Thanks for letting me know.
  24. Lol! Fair enough! Though, I should think that a UM3 test would be comparable.
  25. Are you only testing it on UMO, or are you planning on testing it on UM2(+) as well? @Gudo, yours is mounted on an UM2(+) right? How dramatic of an improvement did/do you see? (If you are willing to talk about your experiences with it, that is.)
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