frederiekpascal

First I was planning on selling my UM2+ extended but the price for the UM3 extended is too high. So I changed my mind and I'll stick to my current machine. Damn!

Hey guys, I was wondering, who is planning on buying the UM3? cheers

Amazing results with great prints but a very expensive machine imo, the UM3 extended is 4470 euros, that's a lot of money. A bit cheaper than the ZORTRAX M300, but still... This is becoming a very expensive hobby to print statues

I'm going to sell my UM2+ extended when a new machine is released.

Tripple extrusion ftw! 8)

Your telling me " een paar maanden" ? and a "paar" is 2 :LOL I hear what you are saying, but I already delayed the purchase for 2 months, and I have to make the decision this week :( Guess I am going to be one of those buyers, that reads about the new UM3 weeks after buying the UM2's I hope you postponed your buy of the 10 UMs?

So, I was right about the new machine

I've ordered it from the Buildtak website yup.

I've paid 99 euros for the flexplate fyi

No offense, I just want to understand. What features of your setup make it safer than another? I was referring to your oven-bag

It's better (and absolutely more safe!) to spend a few euros for a enclosure like mine. This setup cannot burn down your house.

I've ordered one for my UM2+, I'll keep you posted about my experiences. They promised to ship it within 2 weeks.

So in other words, you cannot change retraction settings on the UM2 itself when you use S3D gcodes?

Anybody?

They've released a new product @ BuildTak Check out this trailer : I've ordered it and I'll post my experiences as soon as it arrives.

Awesome work man, I'm impressed!

@neuronex no special reason for enlarging the object

@neuronex I gave your model a try, these are the results of the toplayers. Here is the Dropbox link to download my personal S3D fff profile. (click on the 3 dots on the top right and select download to grab it) Good luck!

I always keep my dirty nozzles in a seperate place and we I got enough of them then I clean them with a butan torch. I hold the nozzle with a heat resistant pair of tweezers to not get burned. Make sure you put a heat resistant plate on the table you're going to do this or you'll destroy your table with nasty burn holes. Nozzles that I used for long prints with abrasive materials are going straight in the trash can because they are worn-out. fyi, a new nozzle costs 12 euros.

which settings did you use?

Hey guys, This is the situation = UM2+ ext with @Tinkergnome firmware 16.08.2 What happened to me a few times in the past weeks is that my UM2+ freezes after a long print. Not a single menu item is selectable, the UM2+ must be restarted to work again. This happens to me 1/10 after a long print. Not a big hassle because it happens after the print but yesterday it happened in the middle of the print. I wanted to check the mm3/sec and I noticed my UM2+ was frozen again, nothing else besides rebooting helped to solve this. I could probably leave it as it was and the print would be finished with the frozen UM2 but I decided to restart the proces. (it was only printing for 2 hours so np) I was wondering if anybody else has experienced these weird freezes with an UM2+ and firmware 16.08.2 ? Another thing I was wondering about. I'm using S3D and it always overrides the current UM2 settings. But when my S3D gcode has overwritten the default settings, is it still possible to change the retraction settings during the print? Or are the settings on the UM2+ ignored by my S3D gcode for the whole print? I'll give you an example. My S3D gcode has most of the time the default retraction settings (25mm/s and 4,5mm). But when I notice that I need to adjust these settings in the middle of a print, is that possible to do this on the UM2 during the print or is it not possible because I don't use Cura? Thnx in advance Frederiek

@Neotko you should contact S3D so they can update their default UM S3D profile

We got our greenlight! Thank you @darkdvd & @stephank !

What I would do. I would disassemble the hot end. You can use this link to follow the steps : https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/22188-how-to-replace-the-tfm-coupler You need to clean the leaked PLA in the fan shroud. In fact you need to clean all the leaked PLA on your hot end. Make sure you assemble your printer correctly, this is quite important to have successful prints in the future again. And change your nozzle with a new one. (heat up your nozzle to a least 200C before changing it) When you don't have a spare nozzle available, you can try the atomic pull (check this link : https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19510-how-to-apply-atomic-method ) And let us know if this worked out for you. Good luck, don't hesitate to ask for extra help. There are probably more "senior" members available here to give you more tips.

Then it will be 2017, and that will not be "This Year" For me "a few" is 2 or 3