2go

Hi! How is the nozzle removal/tightening tool called (picture below)? I lost mine and no idea how to search for it online... Thanks!

+1 There used to be 'Retract while combing' plugin for legacy Cura. Did not try it but sounded very useful.

Pretty self explanatory. Machine was on for: 1913 hours and 21 minutes. It was actually printing for 1001 hours and 23 minutes and used approx. 1037 Meters of filament.

If anyone's interested, I have a listing of a few assorted unused 3DSolex nozzles for sale on Ebay for less than half price and will ship worldwide for free. Search Ebay or PM.

Good morning! I'm bumping this thread one last time for any Cura devs or more experienced users to see. If not, well, have a great weekend!

Here are some pictures: Test model: Cura in Surface Mode: Surface Cura in Surface Mode: Both So... 'Surface' mode works like intended. Hollow cube with single with a square polygon on top printed in single line. However, 'Both' gives the same result as 'Standard', which is solid cube and the polygon on top completely ignored. Unless I don't understand how to use it, 'Both' mode is not working. It would be cool to use such a feature for printing single line text on top of solid prints. Would love to received a comment from any Cura devs. Thanks!

Hi, testing 'Surface mode' option in Cura 2.1.3. From documentation: A ‘both’ mode has now been added. This ensures all closed volumes are printed as normal and all loose geometry as single walls. I cannot get 'both' mode to work. Can someone give a example of what 'loose geometry' is. I suppose it means any geometry which is not a part of a close volume. Made a quick test. 10x10x10mm cube with a single square stray polygon 'standing' on top of it vertically. This stray polygon is only sliced as single line in 'Surface' mode and completely ignored in 'Both'. Any ideas? Thanks!

Anyone else used it? Waiting for the samples to arrive. Not many reviews/opinions on this filament online.

I just bought this metal ring for a few euros from 3dprima for my um2go. No issues. Edit: well, yes, cannot see the bowden through aluminum but I kinda developed a feel for knowing when it is inserted right.

Sorry, did not know you cannot select custom firmware this way in new Cura. Well, just install earlier version of Cura then, update firmware and erase it. Should take no more than 2 minutes of mouse clicking. It will not mess up your 2.1.2 installation.

1. Latest Cura 2.1.2 has the option of updating firmware (Extensions -> Firmware -> Update firmware). Well, at least on Mac. 2. I am using tinkergnome firmware for 3 months already on UM2GO, no issues whatsoever.

Somehow did not think of doing that Yep, clicking the arrow reveals all my drives and SD cards. Thanks!

This is minor inconvenience, but... Running 2.1.2 on iMac. Clicking 'save to removable drive' saves gcode file not to SD card but on one of my external USB hard drives. Is there an option to change this? Previous Cura versions saved directly to the card inserted in iMac's internal SD slot.

Recently I have noticed a fair amount of dust and debris accumulated on the Z screw over the past few months. I would like to scrub it clean before applying more 'green grease'. This is how I would do it: Scrub it clean with a toothbrush and WD40 ->> Wash away WD40 residue with isopropyl alcohol ->> Let it dry ->> Apply 'green grease' from the tube. Does that sound correct? Of course, doing that without any disassembling is inconvenient (not enough space). I can take out Z motor with Z screw attached and clean it then. However, is it possible to detach Z screw from Z motor without disassembling Z motor itself? That would be very convenient but I have no idea how to do it

Same here. Models that took 1-3 seconds to slice using legacy Cura, now take 10-60 seconds. And a few models say 'preparing to slice' until I run out out of patience after 30 minutes.

Thanks @neotko One more quick question. If I were to acquire new fan bracket from 2+ extrusion upgrade (horizontal fans instead of tilted), would it fit UM2 style printhead? My friend is buying the extrusion upgrade and he does not need new fan bracket, he uses a printed one.

Hello, I have a few questions after reading forums for a day and wanting further improve my Ultimaker experience. 1. UM2+ comes with TFM coupler and 9.4mm solid metal TFM spacer instead of spring. I wonder whether this combination would fit UM2 hot end (I use UM2GO). Is the distance between two hot end metal plates the same in UM2 and UM2+ series? Currently I am using glass-filled PTFE and a spring, would like an upgrade. 2. Every online Ultimaker reseller has a bowden tube for UM2 in stock. They all claim that it is not UM2GO compatible. Makes sense, I think the one for UM2GO should be shorter? Where do I find one that fits? Just cut the one meant for UM2 to size? 3. What's the practical difference between TFM couplers from Ultimaker and TFT couplers from 3dsolex? Also, if I were ever to purchase I2K upgrade from 3dsolex, would I need to shorten TFM/TFT coupler by the exact height of this I2K thingy? Thanks!

My nozzle heater was marked 24v40w I think. So it must be 40w heater which is good I guess. My current metal fan shroud is pretty bent out of shape currently so it really might be touching Olsson block somewhere. Will search for a hub that could print me a new shroud out of something more heat resistant than PLA. Will see then. Kinda related -- could anyone tell me what are the specs for 4 small screws that attach fan shroud to the print head? The ones that were factory installed seem to be made of cheese or some other soft material

@gr5 thanks for your ideas. I can confirm that firmware has nothing to do with it. Installed one from your site. Still drops to sixty something degrees when fans are 100%. The heated bed and Olsson block was installed at the same time and I have never used Olsson block before so nozzle touching fan shroud is indeed a possibility. Another thing to test Also, the heated bed works just fine for my purposes as it is As I only use PLA, 75 for first few layers and 62 for the rest is exactly the way I intended to use it in the first place. But it never hurts to learn to solve little problems.

The marking on my new heater indicates 40w. At the moment I use stock metal fan shroud but looking for a replacement. I might as well print yours first I only have (and only ever used) PLA. Do I need some other material for the shroud? As for tuning bed, not sure if using PID on bed is even worth it as it heats and cools so slow. But will try when I will have more time, couldn't hurt.

Really appreciate your input. I have autotuned PID of the heater. Now it stays perfectly at the required temperature without any drifting whatsoever. However it does not seem to affect temperature of heated bed, it still drops. I print slow and cool so the nozzle should not require a lot of heat and steal it from the bed. I have not turned on PID for heated bed, only the nozzle, as I read there is not much point doing that, or is there? So while my nozzle stays perfectly at 195 at my heated bed starts at set 75 degrees for the first layer, as soon as the fans are turned on bed temperature decreases to 62 within five layers or so. @Labern do you not have this thing going at all? Maybe you print with fans off? I've tried turning fans off mid-print and the temp climbed back to 75, turned fans on again and back to 62. I had a brief e-mail discussion with @swordriff about this and he says that it is normal and expected behavior. @gr5 has a heated bed installation guide here http://gr5.org/hb/ where it says 'use 75C for PLA and 125C for ABS (equivalent to 60C and 100C on um2) because of the location of the temp sensor'. What I think it means is that glass will be 15 degrees cooler than said heat sensor is measuring but I fail to understand why the bed does not keep up to heat to 75 in the place where sensor is attached. Unless the power supply is really on the verge of tripping. Lastly, I'm getting really awesome prints. Mirror smooth bottom and prints stick like crazy on bare glass without any tape/glue/whatsoever. It's like having a new and way better printer compared to printing without heated bed. So no problems at all, I'm just trying to figure out why it behaves as it does

Thanks @Labern for your help. Took a few hours dealing with cables but finally got Olsson block and heated bed installed. Installed new 40w heater, did not touch PID yet, nozzle temp seems fine as it is. Well, for now. Doing second print now and encountered strange thing. Set heated bed temp to 75 degrees. However it gradually drops in the first five minutes to 62 degrees and stabilizes there. Is it a problem or expected behavior? (never had a heated bed so not sure how it is supposed to work) @tinkergnome maybe something firmware related? Using Tinker-MarlinUltimaker2go-HBK-16.03.1.hex Thanks!

Hello @Labern I will be installing my heated bed later today. Could you help me out a bit? Please see the picture attached. Am I right assuming that thicker white cables from the heated bed go here (circled in red)? Also, the bed came with new heater. Do I need to change PID values after installing it? Thanks!

Sorry to revive an old topic but this is a simple question so no need for a new thread. Let's say I have sliced my STL with all the speed options set to 20 mm/s (printing speed, infill speed, etc). However travel speed is 150 mm/s. Imagine I turn printer's knob during the print and select speed to be 300%. My question is does it affect travel speed? Cause you know, all speeds become essentially 60 mm/s but travel speed - a whopping 450 mm/s. Or maybe changing speed in printer's menu ignores travel speed?

Great, that's all I needed to know Thanks!