[Colorfabb LW-PLA]

Hi Folks,

 

This is most interesting,

a wing can be printed in many ways, you can draw it in a special way, as Tom Stranton did, so the model can be made completely in spiralized -or layer by layer as most model like this is made.

In here, you'll find a some interesting things about LW-PLA and the selection of color for RC models made by thermoplastics. (Haven't been trying LW-PLA-HT).

 

Heat from sun is "best" reflected by the white color (high gloss polished aluminium is the best reflector). Further, dull black is the lowest reflecting color.

 

Most thermoplastic's have a heat capacity "quite" equal, but the different colors make the cooling effect (heat transfer) on your object much depending of the color!
The easiest to print with is black -and the most difficult is plain white(need more cooling)!

Here is the way Tom Stranton did it:

 

His interesting way of using gyroscopic control his two engine VTOL model.

This is "kind of" the aviation's answer to "SegWay"..

 

https://hackaday.com/2022/08/22/optimising-a-rc-tilt-rotor-vtol/

 

 

This is his way of drawing a wing that's easier for the slicer to spiralize.

 

Happy printing and flying!

 

Thanks
Torgeir

 

[Support Brim requires Brim enabled and other issue]

Hi @Adam324,

 

Just select "Skirt" instead of brim in your profile, then you have the brim under the support and skirt around your model.

 

Thanks

Torgeir

 

 

[Optimizing layer start and end points to prevent travel]

Hi Folks,

 

I found this very interesting as there's so many different ways to go with this.

I'd just divided the wall width with 2, (1.05/2=0.525) mm and adjusted "Wall Line Width" from 0.4 mm to 0.52mm

Then selected from "Normal" to "Surface" mode in the menu "Special Mode", that's all.

 

Here's picture from Cura 5.31

 

 

It print each layer in one go, then next starting inside the cross with next layer.

 

 

Here's picture from Cura 4.13.1

 

 

Same thing here, except from the starting point (the visible withe line).

 

This is just another approach to solve just this issue.

 

Thanks

Torgeir

[UMS5: Underextrusion problems]

Hi @LJustusBuhler & @gr5,

 

Just back from the hospital, so not that easy to answer.

Thanks Gunnar for the kind of word.

I'll hope I'd not confuse anyone, but Cura Arachne is just different than the old Cura slicing engine.

This, as it adjust the width as it want to make the model dimensions right, so in between it adjust line -so gap is avoided as much as possible. This is my basic understanding of how it's done.

I wanted an exact adjustment to see if this worked on the surface -and so it did.

Today, I'd looked at all the setting in the profile @LJustusBuhler used and found that the "Thin Wall" was selected.

I'll think this setting is preventing the Arachne engine to use it's expanding mode, so this might be something?

As I've been experimenting a lot with this engine, I found that you have to be careful when changing profile esp to avoid

under or over extrution, but did not think much about it due to testing with Cura 4.13.1(?) with same result.

 

Thanks

Torgeir

 

 

Edit.

 

 

The "thin Wall" setting is really meant to tell Cura Arachne; "Print with less width than current nozzle width". So sure; I'll know it.

 

However, I've seen warnings about this to be turned off to make Cura Arachne work properly.?

I would like to know about this "issue" from the Cura Team.

 

But the "Thin Wall" setting is default in Cura and I've never checked this out, cause I did not see any problem.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Question about Hotend cooling]

Hi @Igi82m,

 

If a filament is left without any protection as into sealed airtight bag or container, it might attract water directly from the air.

This is very important if you're living at places with high humidity.

Printing with filament containing water, will make extrusion uneven and sometimes pops out hot vapor damp that makes dents into your object during printing.  Most plastic filaments attract water moisture, some more and some less.

 

To remove water from filaments, people use food dehydrators to "refresh" dry out water from a roll of filament.

Between 50-60 degrees Celsius for 8 - 10 hours. If you go higher than this temperature, the coil will start to degrade/deform.

 

Also, if filaments are contaminated with water, it may oze and more as temperature increase.

 

Thanks

Torgeir

 

[UMS5: Underextrusion problems]

Hi @LJustusBuhler,

 

I've been reading through all the posting about this printer.

It's a printer been using for engineering and probably having a high number of printing hours?

All started with a printer that could not feed filament well -and had a lot of grinding into the filament.

So, you was the one selected to fix this..

Well, there is one thing that's "normally" never happen, -both of the cores do not feed at same time..

Yes, the front fan can make this happen and are the first one candidate, unless...

Imaging you as an engineer have a project to be printed within a short time frame.

Starting a print, discovering that the primary core do not feed properly. Then, what do you do.

Yes reconfigure the print file "gcode" to use the right core..

The printer might be in business for some more time, but awaiting more problem to come, if not fixed.

 

You mention the feeder stepper "motor", this is a last thing that's fail in a 3D printer, but the hubbed wheel is a candidate that's wearing "much" when printing abrasive filament. So check those wheels to be sharp in the filament track as well.

 

Another issue are using same print core for a number of different filament. Here stuff from the various filament build up and become almost impossible to clean out. This is now a core with restricted flow..

 

If you have filaments preferred for some type of production, use cores that's only to be printed with this filament.

 

Good Luck.

 

Thanks

Torgeir

[UMS5: Underextrusion problems]

Hi @LJustusBuhler,

 

Well, this setting is found under the menu "Top/Bottom".

You need to select "view all" in preference menu "Settings".

This new Cura version have the possibility to adjust the nozzle width and the spacing as well.

Here are a picture of it with your settings.

 

 

Hope this help.

 

Thanks

Torgeir

 

Edit:

It is the skin expand setting I'm thinking about, but ofc. the feeder play an important role in here as you're much into already.

[UMS5: Underextrusion problems]

Hi @LJustusBuhler,

 

After looking more closely to your print objects and the engineering setting used, it looks like the line space and line width

is some too big for a 0.4 mm nozzle. I'll think if you reduce them from 1.2 mm to 0.8 mm will make your object look much better.

 

Thanks

Torgeir

 

 

[Question about embossed printing]

Hi @Framar,

 

I'll think this function have been long gone..

 

Why not use a paint/photo - shop program and convert the picture to negative, then you can manipulate gray tone as you want.

 

By the way, this is the negative of your example.

 

Thanks

Torgeir

[UMS5: Underextrusion problems]

Hi @LJustusBuhler,

 

After sending this last question, I come to think this; what if you install two AA0.4 cores and then try to print the cube with core 1 (the right core). If it print ok there, the failure must be on the left side..

 

Torgeir

[UMS5: Underextrusion problems]

Hi @LJustusBuhler,

 

as, your printer have been fully "investigated", I'll think it's time to look at your Cura version the project file and related gcode file. The firmware in use on your printer might also be of interest here.

 

If anything during printer investigation -haven't been overlooked, the above must play in here..

 

Thanks

Torgeir

 

 

 

[Question about Hotend cooling]

Hi @Igi82m,

 

Almost forgot this, the nozzle is worn over time, it might be more like 0.6mm instead of 0.4mm.

Pressure would not build up, but "no" sign of under extrution -but lots of stringing...

Further, a little to high nozzle temp can have "same" effect ish..

 

But, you're going to change this part, so we'll see.

 

Thanks

Torgeir

[Question about Hotend cooling]

Hi @Igi82m,

 

You never said what printer you have?

I thought a direct drive feeder stepper is mounted close to the extruder, right?

If so, 8mm retraction is by far too much.. Would not (2-3) mm be something a direct drive use?

Typical retraction for an Ultimaker printer is 6.5 mm and thous printer's are using a bowden tube.

If you just changed the printer "hot end" fan, -make sure this new fan deliver same CFM (cubic feet per minute or better) at same voltage as the original fan.

 

-just my 5p.

Thanks

Torgeir

 

 

[Cura 4.9 Not Opening Files?]

Hi @urza9814,

 

Welcome in here.

It seems that you have a configuration error in your printer's configuration and profiles..

I'll think you should delete your printer from Cura version 4.8, then install an Ultimaker printer say UM 3S as the only version installed.

 

Cura version 4.9 have an issue with the configuration when merging from previous version, so chose 4.9.1 and now try installing this version.

 

When installing the new version, do not let cura overwrite the old version, but select another directory for it to go as I.E. "Cura 4_9_1" Then you can still use your old working version of Cura.

 

Here is Cura 4.9.1:

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/releases?page=3

 

Now the default printer come up as UM 3S, then install your printer "Monoprice Select Mini V2 (E3D)" or the V1 version?

I do not know for sure, but seems like the firmware upgrade made some issue, so do not upgrade firmware using Cura unless the user manual for your printer specify this. Normally there is very seldom any change in firmware.

This way you should have a new "fresh" configuration/profile setting for your printer.

 

Good luck.

Thanks

Torgeir

 

[Octoprint]

Hi @marcosbombi,

 

Aha Ok., this version of Cura have some issues you wont like for this kind of printing.

So for UM2+, it is much better to use Cura 4.13.1 -as this is the best version for your use IMO.

So LW-PLA, this filament can be printed from (200-280) degrees Celsius! -Not many filament cover this span..

The UM2 can only go up to +275 deg,. C, since the PTFE coupler starting to degrade over this temperature.

I'll guess again, that you have cleaned the bed well with IPA better or equal to 90%?

Lets assume this bed have been in use for some times and needing some additional treatment with dish soap and warm water (not hot).  This treatment is even needed at some times on the glass bed.

 

As Prusa have been using flexible (magnetic) bed for long time, they have a good and accurate advice for cleaning such a bed. Here:

 

How to properly clean a flex-plate in general.  Normally, -Isopropyl alcohol, -but when needed Dish soap and water.

There is some good details, make sure to read this.

 

https://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804

 

After this cleaning, do a standard manual bed leveling using a suited peace of A4 sheet (normally around 0.1 mm thick).

Make sure the layer height is set to 0.2mm and so for the initial layers.

Try to start with a little increased nozzle temperature, as it is kind of easy to glog the nozzle at low temperature.

Also do not start printing direct on your object, much better to learn printing test objects as recommended by ColorFabb.

 

Here:

https://colorfabb.com/how-to-print-with-lw-pla

   

As there is two types of LW-PLA (-HT high temp version), here is to learn about this:

 

https://colorfabb.com/nl/upgrading-from-lw-pla-to-lw-pla-ht-what-you-need-to-know

 

Here's also a video from CNC Kitchen:

 

 

 

The LW-PLA is known to string -much!

 

Here is Tom Stratton, demonstrating how to make a wing using Fusion 360 that's make a section of a wing in one go.
No retraction, no Z "lifting" needed and no stringing using LW-PLA:

 

 

 

Here's more about how he made it:

https://www.printables.com/model/261434-vase-mode-wing

 

 

You've got something to try, so happy printing.

 

Torgeir

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Octoprint]

Hi @marcosbombi,

 

I cannot see how an Ultimaker 2+ print faster using Octoprint, -are you using it with a camera from a different place and saving time this way?

 

Have you printed successfully with this printer before?

The print bed is important cause it could be a flexible mat or glass surface..

 

You did not mention what version of Cura you're using, -well?

 

I'll make some Guessing then, are you printing with light weight PLA?

Based on this assumption, what temperature do you use for the first layers?

 

We need some more information about your printer, as nozzle size used, type of filament -there is a lot of them with different properties etc. 

 

You tell us, if not, we cannot help much.

 

Torgeir

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Octoprint]

Hi @marcosbombi,

 

We can see that the filament does not stick to the bed.

This bed seems not to be the original that's used for this printer, the original has a clear glass with a light gray aluminium heat mat under.

Another issue is the Octoprint, in my opinion this make 3D printing much harder for a beginner as there is too much can go wrong.  (And yes, I have a Raspberry pi 4 with Octoprint.)  So, it's better to use the printers SD card, if possible?

Why not use the firmware directly from the UM2?

The bed adjustment is a very good way to know an important part of your printer.

What version of Cura are you using?  (I saw that you're going to print a glider wing.)

Then; are you using Windows or Linux?

 

Thanks

Torgeir

 

 

 

[Bowden tube comes loose in mid-print]

Hi @GoguyT3d,

 

Yes this is the way we do it, right the chamfer is to make it easier to install the filament.

If you buy a new bowden tube, the chamfer end is marked with tape.

 

Thanks

Torgeir

 

Don't know what happen here, I was replaying another post that's gone now.. 🤔

[Cura ignoring small gap]

Hi Greg,

 

right you are, -even ver 5.3.0 has this issue too.

To me it seems like when it come to small details it become worse.

So, if I'll like to try those new versions, I'll always use the monitor to inspect the sliced object before printing.

However, version 4.13.1 is the version I'm using and find very good.

I'm using one small test object, the "ctrl V 3D test" -and if a slicer can do this one well I'll know the UM2 print it fine.

This test object demand using a 0.25 nozzle to be perfect, but can be "some" acceptable using a 0.40 nozzle.

 

I'll just put up this picture for anyone (Greg knows this very well) to see how accurate Cura could be.

Here's how it's look in the monitor using Cura 4.13.1:

I'm using Cura standard profile, except for the "brim", as I'm using "skirt"

The minimum distance between walls: 0.5/0.4/0.3/0.2/0.1mm.

This test object can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:704409

 

Torgeir

 

 

 

[Cura ignoring small gap]

Hi @spumpsalive,

 

Welcome in here.

 

Can confirm your issue with Cura 5.3.1, -but work Ok with Cura 5.3.0 Beta - Xmas version..

 

So appear it's a "thing/bug" in between those two versions?

 

Thanks

Torgeir

 

[Replacing Parts]

Hi..

 

Just a little more info.

 

I'll think the flanges version is the one in use now, this original P/N is the original from 2012.

The flanged version do not go into the wall, but is prevented moving in further by the flange.

 

Just my 5p.

Thanks

Torgeir

[Replacing Parts]

Hi there.

 

The ball bearing UM2 P/N is: 688-2RS the dimension is od: 16 mm id 8 mm and width 5mm.

Edit: The upper P/N is the vendors and Ultimakers P/N is: 1021-ZIP-A

 

 

There is also another one with flanges P/N: 6887

 

Torgeir

[UM3 print head assembly fell apart?]

Hi @Dantan,

 

Here's a link to a tread in here that is a must to read before beginning any disassembling.

There's a few thing to know about in order to avoid mishap.

 

 

Good luck

 

There is also some document for this printer.

 

Torgeir

 

 

[UM3 print head assembly fell apart?]

Hi @Dantan,

 

Sorry to see this happen. 

Your nozzles look very covered up with filament build up. Maybe your print object came loose of bed and just got glued to

the nozzle?

 

The two wire's white/red are for the heater power, if you remove the left core the two wire's will follow as they should be attached to the connector board on the core itself.

 

Red and white wire's in the middle is for the capasitive sensor (sensing heat board nozzle distance).

 

It should not be possible to see the two wire's white/red to come down like this?

Did you have to remove the left core for cleaning up?

 

Or, maybe the two heater wire's was captured by the filament and ended pulling the wires from the connector on the PCB

(printed circuit board). Should be possible.. If so this stopped more extrusion from this nozzle.

 

Strange things happen sometimes.

 

Good luck.

Thanks

Torgeir

 

 

 

 

[Seam confusion 5.3.0 and 5.2.1]

Hi @moschidreamer,

 

As far as I'll know, this is not a "seam" line, but a "start" line.

The "seam" line is a line where the height are adjusted and there is no color showing this in Cura.

The "start" line can even be inside the object, but Cura will still show it (can be turned off).

However, in the first picture, the marking in the right corner is something, -but impossible to see well.

Never used Prusa slicer.

 

Thanks

Torgeir