Torgeir
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Posts posted by Torgeir
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Hi @mark269,
As you hav an Ultimaker 2Extended, there is NO control of the nozzle cooling fan.
I did not know that an UM2ext had this feature built in, but "maybe" the later versions had?
The fan turns on when you turn the master on and go off when master is switched off!
So do not worry about that.
The factory built UM2+ have a feature thats turning this fan at approx 40 deg Celsius nozzle temperature.
What you say is correct for an "UM2Extended", the printer (I have), upgraded to a plus version later -but still have the old fan version.
If you do have the black feeder unit, this is the old version, however there "might" be a version of UM2Ext with this feature included..?
Maybe someone else know somthing more about this issue?
But if this fan is running all the time, there is no problem of printing like this as the idea is to save the life lenght of this fan (during idling after print is finish) and reduce noice in idle mode. EG. when printer is on without printing.
PS. If there have been a kind of short circuit here, it is possible that the transistor controlling this circuit is on "all the time".
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @upsman,
Wellcome in here.
As I am one working with electronics for quite some years, sure know the wording "invert". But wondering that would not a "mirrow" of your object do what you want?
The slicer Ultimaker have is named Cura and Cura can mirrow an object in stl format.
Hope this is what you're looking for.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @Coyote_Blue,
Sure I can.
I have been using this output (24 VDC) since 2016 for two 12 VDC fans, connected in serial for cooling the main PCB that have been working perfectly all the time and still do.
Number one problem for the electronics is the "overheat" that is killing the semiconductors, number two problem -is the humidity!
Those two fans have cooled the whole upper part of the main board. There is no brownish colored stepper driver circuits and the board look as new after seven year..
So, go and use it, this is your best ensourement! Just use it!
This is a direct 24 VDC when power switch is turned on.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @kyone,
Welcome in here.
We will need a lot more information from you, so if you load your model into Cura, -then go to file (upper left phane) and select "save project" in order to share this file in here.
This file will contain all the info needed for us in order to help you, then someone sure show up with an answer.
Thanks
Torgeir
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this become very strange, however, I'll show you one of my project files that's containing a plastic bearing (nylon) for our dishwasher. This part is made for the upper spin propeller, spraying hot water at 70 deg. Celsius. Using Teluman3D Bridge nylon. I'm using an Ultimaker 2 Ex+ printer for this project.
This project file contain my printer type containing all of my last setting (including a picture of the object) for this edition of the object (I've made several to get it right).
In here you can just edit any way you want, as change the printer to your type etc.
I'll think you have a windows op system, -not Apple ios. ?
Have a look at this project file and see if there is any similarity.
Here is the file, (.3mf is highly compressed as standard):
I'm just wonder.
Edit: Forgot how to see what file Cura is working with.
Go to "Open File" menu, top leftmost menu, then select "open file(s)" and now press "all Supported files" then you'll see all the file types you can open.
Torgeir
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Aha., you're using to save your objects/models as a project, -then I understand -sorry.
A project file end with the extension 3mf, this file contain all info about your model, I'm using this format myself ..
So, I think Cura do not know where on the hard disk all of your "nnn-n.3mf" project files are located, -so do a search like "*.3mf" on the disk to find the area with the project files you have.
I'll think this is the problem, should have been thinking about this before.
Torgeir
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well, the only thing I can think about is that the source file is located in the same directory as where the gcode files are stored, or the source files is in the file path when you open a file -and stl is default.
This may look as you open the gcode file, but actually open the stl file, in this case you can of course have both "Prepare and Preview" available and sure here you can edit.
My best guess.
Edit: Are you sure that you configured Cura to read gcode files, when you installed the new Cura?
Torgeir
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welcome in here.
Cura cannot be used to modify/edit a gcode file. If you need to change anything you have to use the source file and make another gcode file of your print object. You can just view the model's gcode file in order to see how the object look like.
Normally you choose the type of files you want Cura to handle, this is done during installation of Cura.
Here is the start of your attached file:
--------------------------------------------
;FLAVOR:Marlin
;TIME:4394
;Filament used: 2.48502m
;Layer height: 0.2
;MINX:89.616
;MINY:89.593
;MINZ:0.2
;MAXX:130.432
;MAXY:130.412
;MAXZ:43
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.13.1
M140 S47
M105
M190 S47
M104 S215
M105
M109 S215
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
G92 E0
G92 E0
G1 F1500 E-7.5
;LAYER_COUNT:215
;LAYER:0
M107
G0 F6000 X95.823 Y95.335 Z0.2--------------------------------------------
I can see you're using Cura 4.13.1 and have an Ender 3 printer.
I could open this file in Cura 4.13.1 no problem at all.
Am I'm missing something here?
Edit: Here is a picture of your model in Cura 4.13.1 showing your model.
Giving same message as you see.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @Dadkitess,
Sorry for your mishaps with this object.
About the last question, I'll think the main problem is that the nozzle still extrude filament, cause the TPLA "stringing" looks like a solid "0.8 mm" tread. The head might collide / or -hang up "some" with this treads, this might lead to missed step and offset at the actual axe/axis. This is my best guess.
Normally I'll use 6.5 mm retraction for most filaments when using 0.4 mm nozzle, so I'll assume a 0.8 mm need "maybe" the double of this(?). But here I'm not sure of how much, -but sure more retraction.
By increasing the width of the filament, there will be a little higher filament flow so this might increase stringing.
I've tested the converted 3MF file as a stl (binary) file of your model, then tried to open it in Cura 4.13.1, but Cura reported that this object can't be sliced. The same happened when I loaded this file to Cura 5.2.1, but here model is grayed with yellow stripes.
I've studied your model for sometime, and could not find any connection between the two "cabinet" and the "main" frame. So the new generation of Cura is less sensitive for model error, as you can widen the line and actually print the model.
Maybe @MariMakes, have some advice/solution about your problem.
Good luck
Torgeir
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Hi @Dadkitess,
the model consist of three different part's, the main construction plus two "sheet" metal boxes floating inside the main construction. It's "impossible" to print this model like this.
The two sheet (?) metal boxes has to be printed separately, using 0.4 mm core (or maybe better with 0.25 mm).
Also the main construction (frame) shall be printed separately, but there's some details become a problem for a 0.8 mm
core.
This model will keep newer versions of Cura "seems" to hang up, but working really.
If this model is saved in stl format, -then loaded into Cura and you will see the problem.
Edit: It looks like your support structure (main frame) is not watertight as well, -but it appears that the model can be printed like this on purpose as you're only interested in this as a presentation?
Using such a large core (0.8 mm) is kind of experimental so print speed, temperature and retraction really need to be tuned. I'll see that you tested the "upper" part of the model as well, but I think the speed have to go down then you will need to reduce the temp.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @Yo-NuTZ,
This might be a risky modification, -however if you have skill and the right tools for replacing QFN (quad flat no pin) chips.
It's possible.
I would only change X,Y and Z (working only in legacy mode without the need of re programming).
I would also use the existing PWM (pulse width modulated) signal used to control the stepper current.
The low pass filter would need to be modified to match the TCM2208 voltage for the required (Ampere/torque).
There's one filter for both the X/Y and another for the Z.
Doing it this way, does not need any change in the firmware.
Here is the videos of how to use legacy mode:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TubpTMFkbVs
And here is another video of how to program OTP (one time programing) mode and "dynamic control" mode:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9V8iEEAB15g
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @servant74,
this seems to be the Z-end stop switch.
The first thing the printer will do is to synchronize the the bed position, this is done by lowering the bed until bed end stop is sensed, then the stepper motor stop and reverse to the actual start position.
In your case, the motor step down, but only reach the hard stop and jump back a step, this will go over and over and makes a lot of noise!
The end switch is probably pressed to far down (out of adjustment), so that the bed "stop screw" do not reach the actuator lip. Of course, a faulty switch or unconnected connector for this end switch is also a possible error.
Good luck
Torgeir
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Hi @jsw,
Something like this have been reported before and was caused by a partially blocked or faulty front fan.
This will start heat too climb into the upper "cold" area of the print core, softening the filament and limiting the feed..
Tiny strings of filament tend to collect up into this fwd fan, so make sure that this fan is working.
Also, -the wires that power this fan can break right where the front door is hinged and where the wires bend every time the door is opened.
Just a small tip..
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Hi @jvaria,
TPU (95A) is prone to attract water moisture direct from the air, so when the filament is affected, oozing will increase due to expanding "water vapor pressure" when filament enter the hot extruder.
However, this is discussed some in here and here is a link about this problem and suggestion to improvement:
Good luck.
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Hi @Jose77,
Welcome in here.
The model you're trying to print is sliced for another printer than the S5 (I'll see there are two doors).
The object you are trying to print need to be sliced for the UM S5, to be accepted by the printer.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @JOMS,
There is nothing wrong with your model.
However, to be able to help you, you must save your model as a "Project" file and attach the file in here.
This will show the settings you're using -then someone might be able to help you.
Thanks
Torgeir
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I'll think @UlrichC-DE give a very good hint here, as the initial speed is 20 mm/sec and from the beginning of second layer it will start printing with 50 mm/sec!
So now it is just another thing to check, the forward cooling fan, -cause this one can be blocked by stringing from the printing process. We have seen this fan completely blocked and partly blocked. So check this fan, sometimes difficult to see..
So if this one is blocked, the printing will go fine for some time, -until it stop printing completely. This is because the filament start softening in the upper part and simply become glued here. This is where we will find lots of grinding in the filament until there is no more to grab on for the feeder.
But if this fan is partial blocked, you may be able to print for a while, but your feeder will struggle "some" with added load.
However, if you need to print fast for some reason, we'll approaching fast "the limit" of feeding with this reduced cooling for the upper fan.
This may also explain why the object is printed well when turned 90 degrees? 😉
Torgeir
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Hi @Andrew_W,
Just arrived home after some work at another place.
Anyhow I've been looking into this problem as a hardware issue.
This because (error) ER65 meaning there is "some" problem to obtain a proper flow through to the nozzle.
This could be due to some partial blocking of the nozzle/extruder head, I.E as the flow sensor detect reduced speed VS actual speed command for the feeder, hence the ER65.
As your model was printed without this error when turned 90 degrees, an explanation of this is also to be found..
Your print object do not have any error, -however here is some issues with profile settings that can develop such an error.
As this object is printed "very" fast and with 0.3 mm height using a 0.4 mm nozzle, I'll think this is "quite" near the limit for these settings.
According to the "Extra fast" profile with 0,3 mm height and 50 mm/sec and UM "Pearl White" PLA with an increased temperature of 10 deg C. increased from (200 to 210) deg C.
There is three thing to check:
First, is your nozzle (cartridge) absolutely clean? There is cleaning method for this.
Two, reducing the printing speed will help!
Three, increase the printing temperature, say 5 deg C., but not more than 220 deg C. may also help.
I'll guess you have some time frames to overcome?
So an explanation of how a 90 deg rotation of "print object" may help when having such a problem.
Well, -this occur caused of increased y-axe movement that will reduce the friction a "little" in the bowden tube when the feeding pressure is high.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Anew feature of the S printers "later firmware".
Maybe also worth mentioning, if this problem occur, is the possibility to turn of the flow sensor with this problem.
But there is some extra note about this you need to know, so read more about it here:
https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011706239-ER65-Extrusion-problem-detected
This (error) ER43 is also related to the "Flow sensor", see here:
https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011575440
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hope this help
Good luck
Torgeir
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If you save your printed object as a project file, it will be a lot easier as more information about setting and filament type is included in here here.
Torgeir
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Hi @Andrew_W
Check according to this routine:
https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011706239-ER65-Extrusion-problem-detected
Torgeir
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Hi folks,
Could not agree more about "strength" and 100 % infill.
Also, if the object is compressed/loaded, -I'll always orient the force direction in the horizontal (X/Y) direction.
I've been printing with nylon quite a lot and using 100 % infill and closed up printer to keep the temp on the "upper" bed temp are the way to go..
Z axis are always the weak point when loading our fff built objects.
Interesting topics.
Torgeir
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Well, -if you use the PT100 directly on the Temp2 input of the 1.5.7 board, your indicated temperature will be way of the "correct value"..
If you plan to use the 3 temp input on this board using PT100, you'll need to remove all 3 pull up resistors that
are connected to each input line and you must use an E3D PT100 amplifier for each of the 3 inputs.
This is the three 4.7 Kohm (4700 ohm) resistors to be removed, R23, R21 and R4.
Then you can connect the E3D amplifiers output to each of Temp inputs on the 1.5.7 board.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @3dprntz
All professional made PT100 connection wires are normally shielded with a copper braid. This copper braid is not connected to ANY of the two wires (or more wires) connected to the "precision platinum resistor".
The amplifier used for this sensor is of differential type, so no ground to any of those two inputs!
If there is a copper braid shielding, this wire is connected to ground to prevent unwanted electromagnetic disturbances to enter and give error to our temperature reading.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi Brad and anyone else,
"Long" time no seen..
Missed this one, -not very active in here those days.
Anyway, I'll think most people do not know how good your "tools" is for 3 D printing, esp. when it come to tuning different types of filament for optimal result.
Well, here it goes:
As Cura 5.0 and 5.1 arrived, you were asked to uninstall the "Auto Tower" plugin found under the menu "Extension" in Cura and do a re installation of this plugin.
As I'm using this plugin for tuning, I've never uninstalled Brads plugin cause it working perfect in Curas ver. 14.3.1 🙂
When installing this plugin, you have to install OpenSCAD a freeware.
(I'm going to install the new version after some more testing of 5.1)
-------------------------------------
OpenSCAD version 2021.01
Copyright (C) 2009-2021 The OpenSCAD Developers
License
This program is free software; you can redistribute it and/or modify it under the terms of the GNU General Public License as published by the Free Software Foundation; either version 2 of the License, or (at your option) any later version.
Please visit this link for a copy of the license: GPL 2.0
----------------------------------------
Here is some pictures of how it looks in Cura.
Here is Cura 14.3.1
This is how "Auto Tower" looks under "Extension" tab.
Here you'll see all possible "Auto Tower" types that's generated to the heat bed by "OpenSCAD".
First one is "Fan Tower" and you can define a few parameters as well, (same for the other "Auto Towers").
First the "stl file" of the "Fan Tower" and ofc you van use preview as on any other model.
Next is the "Retraction Towers", one for the distance and the other for the speed.
Here is the "Retraction Tower" versus Speed.
The last one I'll show is a PLA filament "Temperature Tower" ranging from (220 to 180) Deg. Celsius.
Here you'll see there is a few of the most common filaments, but you can add and test out your favorite filament with great result.
Hope this give some more interest in this tool.
Thank you Brad.
Torgeir
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No control over 12v model cooling fans
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Hi @mark269,
As you hav an Ultimaker 2Extended, there is NO control of the nozzle cooling fan.
I did not know that an UM2ext had this feature built in, but maybe the later versions had?
The fan turns on when you turn the master on and go off when master is switched off!
So do not worry about that.
The factory built UM2+ have a feature thats turning this fan at approx 40 deg C.
What you say is correct for an "UM2Extended", the printer I have (upgraded to a plus version later but still have the old fan version).
If you do have the black feeder unit, this is the old version, however there "might" be a version of UM2Ext with this feature included..?
Thanks
Torgeir